Traditional Culture Encyclopedia - Traditional festivals - Bai clothing material

Bai clothing material

As early as more than 3,000 years ago, Bai ancestors lived and worked in Erhai area with grinded stone axes, knives and bone horns as production tools. The aesthetics and national customs formed by long-term labor are prominently reflected in Bai costumes. Bai people advocate white, and white is the most expensive dress. Coupled with bright color contrast, harmony and exquisite embroidery, it fully embodies the high wisdom of the Bai people in costume art.

Generally speaking, Bai costumes are simple and simple for men, elegant for middle-aged and elderly people, and gorgeous for girls and children. Take the clothes of young girls as an example. The tops are mostly white or light cardigans or shirts, and the tight sleeves are inlaid with various colors of lace. The coats are mostly red and light blue collars. Wear white or light pants. A short apron with lace and embroidery patterns at the waist. Wide-flowered belts and streamers are tied tightly around the waist, and the comb is unique. They are placed in the middle of a long peach blossom or printed headscarf and then wrapped with red rope. Hanging on the left is a bunch of Bai Liusu with a silver or jade bracelet on his wrist. Wear embroidered shoes on your feet. This dress is rich and solemn, with beautiful lines, graceful and dancing, which is very pleasing to the eye.

The embroidery patterns of Bai people in Dali are usually floral patterns, such as headscarves, waist ornaments, streamers, suspenders, straw hats and uppers. Most of them are mainly flowers and plants.

"Cangshan is green, Erhai is clear, the moonlight is white, camellia is red, the wind is swaying, and the snow reflects rosy clouds", which is a true portrayal of the graceful Dali Bai costumes. The most obvious characteristics of Bai costumes are bright and harmonious colors, exquisite embroidery, simple and elegant flowers, which fully embodies the high artistic talent of Bai people. Bai men's wear is not much different, simple and simple; There is a great disparity in women's clothing, which is bright, elegant and gorgeous, often with fancy upper body and headdress and simple lower body; The clothes of girls and children are gorgeous, while those of middle-aged and elderly people are elegant.

The hats in children's costumes include embroidered lion hats, tiger hats, rabbit hats, mouse hats, green frog hats, cockscomb hats, fishtail hats and girl hats. And they are usually nailed with silver ornaments. It usually takes dozens of people to make a hat. Clothes and trousers include dresses, embroidered bibs, embroidered backings, embroidered waists, embroidered styles, pantyhose and embroidered backs. Shoes include embroidered lion shoes, tiger shoes, cat shoes, rabbit shoes, mouse shoes, wing shoes, boat shoes, butterfly shoes and so on.

Bai men used to wear octagonal hats, octagonal towels, straw hats with grass and black buns. Baotou is embroidered on both sides and hung with glass beads and tassels. The clothes are decorated with "three drops of water", "five drops of water" and a double-breasted coat. Many ordinary clothes, three bags and many buttons. Buttons are mostly silver or black collars. There are also multi-layer and multi-package suede coats. A white cloth belt more than ten feet long, short and wide pants. Middle-aged and elderly people wear suede sheepskin bags with grass smoke around their waist, which is very ethnic. Shoes include "elephant trunk shoes" and cloth sandals, and the upper of the toe is often decorated with tassels. Old people wear red satin shoes, wing shoes and so on. Men's wear has now been changed to Hanfu, and only around the Three Ghosts' Day, Torch Festival and other national festivals can we see some costumes with national characteristics.

Among women's dresses, girls' headdresses are extremely delicate and have the most national characteristics. They like to braid their hair by themselves, fold it into strips with a flowered scarf and put it on it. Then wrap a long braid with red rope, pull it up, weave it into a dragon, squeeze it in the middle, go up to Jackie Chan's horn and down to Jackie Chan's phoenix tail. The tassel on the headscarf is tied to the left ear. When the wind blows, the silver beads shine. A few tassels on the forehead not only show the beauty of girls' long hair, but also highlight the colorful headscarves under the braids, which are full of wine and freely render the unique charm of Bai girls' hairstyles and headdresses.

In the past, girls in Haidong would wear an embroidered phoenix tail before getting married. There are two pairs of colored balls supported by thin springs, embroidered with wings on both sides, connected by silver chains and put on braids. Seen from a distance, it looks like a bright golden phoenix. After marriage, women usually don't wrap their hair in headscarves. Instead, I comb my hair into three braids and put it in a bun on the back of my head. They combed it into the queen's head, covered it with a black screen, netted it with an oval hair cover, inserted a tube, and put on a rockhopper or a headscarf. Compared with girls, the colors are more and more elegant. Middle-aged and elderly women wear high hair bun and black scarf with batik and tie-dye, which gives people a sense of solemnity. Women's wear also changes slightly due to different ages, mainly in the choice of color, the use of lace and the difference in waist length. Girls wear white, pink and blue collarless big-breasted clothes or red and light blue collar shirts; Collars and robes are made of gold velvet, corduroy, woolen cloth or chemical fiber. Color depends on age. Young girls and young women like water red, while old women like black and blue. Tie your waist tightly with a green belt about five inches wide and several feet long, and then tie it around your waist. Women wear square waists from old to young. Most girls like short waist, single layer, white and green, inlaid with lace, embroidered with patterns such as longevity flower, swastika flower, pomegranate flower and iris flower, and even embroidered with "duck tongue" and ribbon. Properly cover the waist above the knee to show youthful vitality and feminine posture. Middle-aged and elderly women practice both waist and knee, and the color changes from warm to cool, from complex to simple. Another woman embroidered a ribbon around her waist with two Shuang Mianxiu flowers at both ends.

In the past, young and middle-aged women had to wear red and green trousers with wide sleeves and wide legs. Now I have changed my pants, which are almost the same as those of the Han nationality. In the past, women wore all kinds of embroidered shoes and tattered linen sandals with red tassels, but now most of them are abandoned. Urban thick plate bottom rain boots worn by the elderly when it rains are a kind of rain boots with national characteristics.

Bai girls should make a set of jewelry when they get married, including snake bone chain, three whiskers, five whiskers, silver hanging chain, hanging syringe, goldfish and other accessories; There are also gold, silver, jade, rattan bracelets, new tin, almond bracelets, beaded bracelets, calf bracelets and so on. Jade bracelets and silver chains are the most precious, and the wearer is a symbol of married women; There are also various rings, earrings, tubes, hat flowers, eight immortals, crown needles, dragons and phoenixes, butterflies, locks, waist tags, top rings and so on. Cash, silver ornaments and jade jewelry gradually disappeared and were replaced by various expensive watches.