Traditional Culture Encyclopedia - Traditional stories - Know very little about costumes of past dynasties.
Know very little about costumes of past dynasties.
Little knowledge of Hanfu (knowledge about Hanfu) 1. Han people's clothing knowledge
Hanfu or Hanfu is the abbreviation of traditional Han costumes: it mainly refers to the Han costumes formed in the process of natural and cultural development and ethnic blending before the end of Ming Dynasty.
As an independent clothing system, Hanfu has formed a unique cultural background and national style in the historical development, that is, it has formed distinctive style characteristics, which is obviously different from the traditional clothing of other ethnic groups in China and any other ethnic groups in the world, and is qualitatively different from modern clothing in standard styles. Han costumes are extensive and profound.
2. How much do you know about Hanfu?
First, the structure of Hanfu
Hanfu is made of cloth and silk, with a width of 2 feet and 2 inches (about 50cm). It is divided into ten parts: collar, lapel, slit, sleeve, sleeve, belt and collar. Take two pieces of cloth with the same length, fold them in half respectively as front and rear purlins, and sew the back seam. Straight-neck double-breasted clothing is a kind of clothing without slit in front. If you take another piece of cloth, cut it into two pieces and sew it on the left and right lapels, it will be the right lapel. The middle seam at the front and back is called V, that is, Du meridian and Ren meridian, which are on the right side of Ren meridian, so it is called right V.. The length of the shackles is divided into waist, knee and foot. Hanfu is divided into three lengths: garment, garment and garment. The seam between the sleeve and lapel is called seam, and the cuff is called seam. A complete Hanfu usually has three layers: underwear, underwear and coat.
1, horizontal collar and right collar
When the left skirt and the right skirt cross the chest in Hanfu, the neckline naturally crosses, so it is vividly called "cross collar"; The intersection of two straight lines on the left and right sides of the center line of clothing represents the symmetry of traditional culture, shows a unique charm of righteousness and represents impartiality in life. If Hanfu represents the unity of heaven and man, then the intersection represents the earth at the circle and represents human nature, that is, square and righteousness. Sleeves are round, representing the sky in the round place. The expression of this kind of local studies in Hanfu is also a reflection of the ancient culture of China.
The most typical collar shape of Hanfu is "cross-neck right slit", that is, the collar is directly connected with the skirt, the skirt crosses the chest, and the left skirt presses the right skirt, which is Y-shaped in appearance, forming the effect that the whole garment leans to the right. Gee, the original skirt. The right axillary frenum of the left front cover, inside the right front cover, is called the right seam, and vice versa. This is the tradition that Hanfu has always maintained the same style, and it is also closely related to China's thought of "respecting power". These characteristics are obviously different from the costumes of other nationalities.
The other kind of "horizontal collar" is "straight collar", and the "disc collar" straight collar means that the collar comes down directly from the chest, parallel and vertical, and does not pass through the chest. Some have lacing on their chests, while others speak directly without lacing. This kind of straight-collared clothes is generally worn outside the cross-collared Hanfu, and is often used in everyday coat styles such as tops, half-arms, buttons, etc. Collar is a common style in men's wear. The collar is disc-shaped, with a tie on the right collar and shoulder. It is used in official clothes of Han and Tang dynasties, and it also has collar type in daily clothes.
2. Compliment clothes with wide sleeves
Since ancient times, Hanfu has been praised for its dresses, coats and wide sleeves. Compared with western clothing in the same period, Hanfu has indisputable superiority in human nature. When westerners use breastplates and skirts to restrain women's physical development, generous Hanfu has realized the characteristic of letting the body stretch at will.
The sleeves of Hanfu, also known as "Mei", are unique in the history of national costumes in the whole world. Sleeves, in fact, are all round, and the round place represents the sky. Sleeves are wide and long, which is a remarkable feature of dress sleeves in Hanfu, but not all Hanfu are like this. Hanfu dresses are generally wide sleeves, showing a graceful, elegant, solemn and smart style. For a long time, the standard style of Hanfu sleeves is round, and the objects reflected from pre-Qin to Han Dynasty are the same. For a long time, except for small sleeve's appearance in the secret service after the Tang Dynasty, the mainstream of Hanfu sleeves was gathered and removed.
"Sleeve width and sleeve length" is the main feature of the sleeve shape of Hanfu dress, but it is not the only style feature. Small sleeve and short sleeves are also common in Hanfu. There are mainly these usages: the clothes of ordinary people who take part in daily manual labor, the military clothes of non-commissioned officers and generals, and the winter clothes with tight sleeves to keep warm. In history, sometimes different dynasties have different economic, cultural and aesthetic concerns, and they also have different performances in sleeve types. For example, in the Han and Tang Dynasties, the aristocratic dresses used wide sleeves, and in the Song and Ming Dynasties, the uniforms used small sleeve.
3, lace hidden buttons
The hidden buckle in Hanfu actually includes two situations: buckle and non-buckle. Under normal circumstances, Hanfu does not use buttons. Even if buttons are useful, they are hidden and will not be exposed. Usually, you tie your clothes with a tie. At the same time, there are big belts and long belts at the waist. All belts are made of cloth for clothes. A dress has two belts, which is very practical. A waistband under the left armpit is tied with the waistband in the right skirt with a pair of knots, and the waistband under the right armpit is tied with the waistband in the left skirt with a pair of knots respectively, thus completing the dressing process.
The other is a big belt with a long belt around it, which is both practical and decorative, symbolic and symbolic of power. Compared with kimono, the big belt of Hanfu is wider.
3. Characteristics of Han costumes
The main features of Hanfu are cross-collar, straight front and waist, tied with rope and hooked, giving people a free and easy impression.
These characteristics are obviously different from the costumes of other nationalities. Hanfu Hanfu can be divided into formal clothes and regular clothes. From the shape point of view, there are mainly three kinds: "top and bottom clothes" (ancient top refers to bottom skirt), "deep clothes" (top and bottom clothes are sewn together) and "skirt" (short clothes). Men often wear crowns, towels, hats and so on. , different shapes.
Women's hair can also be combed into various styles, and they can wear all kinds of beading, walking and other accessories. The temples on both sides are richly decorated, and some wear curtain caps and hijabs. Another important feature of Han people's decoration is that they like to decorate Yu Pei jade.
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The influence of Hanfu's status
* * * The recognition of Hanfu is a part of national consciousness. During the China Chaos, intellectuals and people from all walks of life in the Central Plains fled to the south, retaining the fire of the Central Plains civilization, and gradually developing Jiangnan into a prosperous place. This event is called "Crossing the South with the Crown". In the Song Dynasty, Guo Jing did not want to abandon Han clothes and committed suicide.
Hanfu has a far-reaching influence because of the spread of Confucian kingly culture in China. Neighboring ethnic groups, including many other Confucian cultural circles (Han cultural circles), borrowed some characteristics of Hanfu by imitating the Chinese etiquette system, and took it as five gifts for good luck and ill luck.
In addition, China and Li Bin also stipulated that the king of the four barbarians must wear his own clothes and appear before the Emperor China, which means that "the barbarian king is wearing his national costume". In the vassal system of Han and Tang dynasties, there was a so-called "gathering in the DPRK" system in which the leaders of neighboring ethnic groups regularly appeared before the emperor.
No matter whether foreign monarchs, their envoys or courtiers pay homage to Emperor China, accept official positions and make contributions, or China fetes foreign monarchs, foreign monarchs should wear national clothes to present gifts.
The national costume system has prompted the surrounding ethnic groups to form their own national costumes. For example, Emperor Taizong of Qidan came into contact with the Central Plains clothing system when he entered the Jin Dynasty, and after returning to the north, he formulated the national clothing and Hanfu system of the dynasty with reference to the Central Plains clothing system. Throughout the ages, there have been official tribute maps depicting the costumes of ambassadors of other countries.
Baidu encyclopedia-Han clothing
Baidu encyclopedia-hanfu
4. Hanfu cultural knowledge
Hanfu is called "the traditional costume of China".
It began in the Yellow Emperor, was prepared in Yao and Shun, took shape in the Zhou Dynasty and flourished in the Ming Dynasty. Through hand-painted decoration, cutting, sewing, ironing and other processes, it integrates unique dyeing, weaving and embroidery, featuring collar and white lace. Du Fu is the projection of "Chinese civilization" and "the state of etiquette" in clothing, showing Chinese style and oriental aesthetics.
From the Yellow Emperor's "ruling the world by hanging clothes" to the national costumes of the Han nationality before the Qing Dynasty. Although it has undergone changes, its main shape "horizontal collar and straight row, up and down" has never changed.
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The present situation of Hanfu culture
With the return of traditional culture, Hanfu weddings, Hanfu opening ceremonies, Hanfu sacrificial ceremonies and other forms of straight Hanfu "shows" have been staged frequently in Chinese mainland. The enthusiasm for Hanfu reflects that people pay more and more attention to cultural traditions. However, whether it is the "crossing" experience of feather fan and black ribbon or the awakening of traditional culture, the dispute between "Tao" and "quality" in cultural inheritance has increasingly become the focus of attention of all parties.
After 10 years of development, Hanfu has already gradually entered the public's aesthetic vision from the cultural expression symbols of young people. Behind the aesthetic changes, it is inevitable that the traditional culture of China for thousands of years contained in Hanfu is pushing the youth groups to the forefront of the trend.
China News Wang Rong-The charm of Hanfu is amazing and the traditional culture is recognized and excavated by young people.
China News Network-The Debate between Form and Quality in the Heritage of Hanfu Culture of Hong Kong University Students' "Show"
5. Traditional costumes of Han nationality
The name comes from the costumes worn by the Han people from the Three Emperors and Five Emperors to the Ming Dynasty, which is called Hanfu.
Hanfu is a traditional national costume handed down by the Han nationality for thousands of years, which can best reflect the characteristics of the Han nationality. Every nation has its own national costume, and Hanfu embodies the national characteristics of the Han nationality. During the thousands of years from the Three Emperors and Five Emperors to the Ming Dynasty, the Han people, with their own wisdom, created a rich and colorful Hanfu culture and developed a unique clothing system-Hanfu system.
The profound, well-organized, well-established and beautiful Hanfu is a rare treasure in China, which is worthy of every China person's pride. Objectively speaking, the national costumes of the Han nationality in some historical stages, such as China's flag dress/cheongsam/mandarin jacket, can never be called "Hanfu" because there is no normal evolution and convergence with the real Hanfu.
Basic features The main features of Hanfu are horizontal collar and right lap. Instead of buttons, they are tied with ropes, giving people an impression of freedom and elegance. These characteristics are obviously different from the costumes of other nationalities.
Hanfu can be divided into formal clothes and regular clothes. From the shape point of view, there are mainly three kinds: "top and bottom clothes" (ancient top refers to bottom skirt), "deep clothes" (top and bottom clothes are sewn together) and "skirt" (short clothes).
Among them, the coronation under the coat is the most solemn and formal dress for emperors and officials; Robe clothes (deep clothes) are common clothes for officials and scholars, while skirts are popular among women. Ordinary working people generally wear short clothes and pants.
Accessories headdress is one of the important parts of Han costumes. Ancient Han men and women put their hair in a bun and fixed it on their heads.
Men often wear crowns, towels, hats and so on. , different shapes. Women's hair can also be combed into various styles, and they can wear all kinds of beading, walking and other accessories.
The temples on both sides are richly decorated, and some wear curtain caps and hijabs. Men's style: "The Yellow Emperor ruled the world by hanging down his clothes" was handed down, characterized by a wide collar, a wide robe, big sleeves and a wide coat (represented by Qin and Han costumes), which continued in Xia, Shang, Zhou (Spring and Autumn Period and Warring States Period), Qin and Han Dynasties, Three Kingdoms, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties, Sui and Tang Dynasties, Five Dynasties, Song, Yuan and Ming Dynasties and influenced Japan.
This is the most common style of Japanese kimono. T-shirts popular since Sui and Tang Dynasties (worn by Emperor Taizong and Li Shimin) continued in Tang Dynasty, Five Dynasties, Song Dynasty, Mongolia, Yuan Dynasty and Ming Dynasty, and influenced Japan, Korea and other countries.
Song Taizu and Ming Taizu wear this kind of clothes. So far, the clothes worn by the Japanese emperor on some occasions are all variants of this Hanfu.
There are relatively more styles of women's wear, but there are only two basic styles: the one with a big waist and a standing collar (also represented by Qin and Han costumes). Cultural connotation China is also called "Huaxia", and the origin of this name is related to Hanfu.
"Justice in Shangshu" notes: "The coronation ceremony of Huazhang is called China, and the big country is called Xia." Justice in Zuo Zhuan? Ten years of Ding Gong: "China has a big gift, so it is called summer; The beauty of the clothes is called China. "
China has been called "a country with clothes and courtesy" since ancient times, and "clothes" has become synonymous with civilization. For example, during the China Chaos in May, intellectuals and people from all walks of life in the Central Plains fled to the south, retaining the fire of the Central Plains civilization, and gradually developing Jiangnan into a prosperous place. This event is called "Crossing the South with the Crown".
The word "Hanfu" first appeared in Hanshu: "In a few days, I will congratulate you and enjoy the Hanfu system". The "Han" here mainly refers to the Han Dynasty, which refers to the dress etiquette system of the Han Dynasty.
The formation of the so-called "Han nationality" is directly related to the Han Dynasty. Just as the traditional dress of Hu people is called "Hu Fu", the traditional dress of * * * also has the corresponding name "Hanfu".
Therefore, the basic connotation of this word was later fixed, that is, the traditional clothing of the Han nationality. At first, it was the name of traditional costumes of other ethnic groups, and later it became a cultural symbol of * * * self-identity.
During the Song, Yuan and Ming Dynasties, some foreign rulers clearly used "Hanfu" to refer to * * * clothing. For example, "After Emperor Taizong of Liao entered Jin, both the emperor and the Nanban Han officials used Hanfu; The empress dowager and the northern Khitan courtiers all wore national clothes, and their Hanfu was a legacy of the Five Dynasties and the Jin Dynasty. When the Yuan Dynasty revised the Liao history, it even opened up a "Hanfu" for Hanfu.
6. Characteristics of Han costumes
Characteristics of Han costumes: 1. The basic structure of Hanfu is made of cloth and silk, with a width of 2 feet and 2 inches (about 50cm). It is divided into ten parts: collar, lapel, collar, sleeve, sleeve, belt and collar.
2. When the left skirt and the right skirt cross on the chest, the neckline naturally crosses, so it is vividly called "cross collar". 3, praise clothes and wide sleeves Hanfu has been a kind of clothing since ancient times, it has a long coat and wide sleeves.
Compared with western clothing in the same period, Hanfu has indisputable superiority in human nature. When westerners use breastplates and skirts to restrain women's physical development, generous Hanfu has realized the characteristic of letting the body stretch at will.
4. The hidden button in Hanfu with hidden button actually includes two situations: buckle and unlock. Under normal circumstances, Hanfu does not use buttons. Even if buttons are useful, they are hidden and will not be exposed.
Extended data:
Although Hanfu itself disappeared under the ruling policies of shaving hair and changing clothes in Qing Dynasty, some elements of Hanfu did not die out because of its strong vitality. Some elements of Hanfu can still be seen in some important sacrifices, commemorative activities and folk festivals in modern society until Taoism, Buddhism, some people in remote mountainous areas and many ethnic minorities in China. At the beginning of the 20th century, with the development of China's national strength, people began to examine the outstanding parts of their traditional culture.
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