According to which national costume, cheongsam was developed?

Cheongsam, one of the traditional women's costumes, was designed by women in the Republic of China in the first half of the 20th century on the basis of referring to Manchu women's traditional flag clothes and western culture. It is a reflection of eastern and western cultures. At present, in the eyes of some westerners, cheongsam has the cultural symbolic significance of women's clothing in China.

Cheongsam is a kind of female fashion in the Republic of China, which evolved from Manchu women's robes. Because Manchu is called "Qiren", it is called "Qipao".

In the 1920s, influenced by western costumes, the improved cheongsam gradually became popular among women. This kind of cheongsam was introduced to thousands of families after Han people absorbed western clothing styles and constantly improved them in Chinese. There are many styles of cheongsam, such as wishful placket, pipa placket, inclined placket and double placket. There are high collar, low collar and no collar; The cuffs have long sleeves, short sleeves and sleeveless sleeves; There are high slits and low slits in the slits; There are also long cheongsam, short cheongsam, double cheongsam and single cheongsam. In 1930s, the improved cheongsam almost became the standard dress for women in China.

There are three main differences between the women's robe in the late Qing Dynasty and the cheongsam in the Republic of China: 1 The robe of the flag girl is wide and straight, without revealing its shape; In the Republic of China, cheongsam was slit and waist closed, showing the figure or feminine curve. 2. There are trousers in the robe of the flag girl, and embroidered trouser legs can be seen at the fork; In the Republic of China, there were underwear and stockings in the cheongsam, and the legs were exposed at the fork. 3. The fabric of the flag gown is mostly heavy brocade or other jacquard fabrics, and the decoration is cumbersome; During the Republic of China, cheongsam fabrics were lighter, printed fabrics increased, and the decoration was simpler. It is these three differences that make the cheongsam undergo a qualitative change-from a traditional robe to a new variety that can compete with western skirts.

At the beginning of the twentieth century, it was popular to wear short jackets with flared sleeves and sleeveless vests, and the jackets swung back and forth on the ground. Since then, some changes have been made to the hem, sleeves, lapels and collars of the cheongsam, with the addition of decoration, and the changes are complicated. However, it still maintains the straight and wide style of the old cheongsam vest, and adopts the traditional straight cutting method to show the graceful figure of women. chi-pao

In the late 1920s and 1930s, cheongsam changed repeatedly in length, width, split height, short sleeves and low collar. 1929, influenced by short skirts in Europe and America, the cheongsam with a moderate length began to shorten, the hem shrank to the knees, and the cuffs became shorter and smaller. Later, there was a school uniform cheongsam, the hem was shrunk above the knee 1 inch, and the sleeves were western. This change has been criticized. 193 1 year later, the cheongsam began to lengthen and the hem drooped. It reached its peak in the mid-1930s, and the bottom of the robe hung down to cover your feet, which was called "sweeping cheongsam". The sleeves of cheongsam, which used to cover the wrists, were shortened to the elbows. After that, the sleeve length became shorter and shorter, shrinking to two inches below the shoulder, and there was almost no sleeve after 1936.