Do you know what the costumes of the Qin, Han and Six Dynasties were like?

1. Clothing system in Qin and Han Dynasties

(1) abandon the ancient. Unified service system

In 22 1 BC, the Qin Dynasty destroyed the Six Kingdoms, established the first centralized feudal country in China, and promulgated a series of measures, including "the same words, the same cars, and accepting the flags of the Six Kingdoms", and established various unified systems, including the clothing system, which had a great impact on the development of feudal society in China. The dress system in Qin dynasty followed the principle of abandoning the old at present, abolished the coronation system carefully crafted by Zhou dynasty, and only kept the smallest dress as a dress. Robe clothing was popular in the Qin Dynasty, and it was stipulated that officials with three or more products could wear deep robes and deep clothes, while ordinary people wore white robes. For other costumes, the Qin Dynasty generally simplified and tried to be practical on the basis of following some shapes in the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period.

② Emei Bo Belt

The Han Dynasty is the shaping period of China's ancient traditional costumes. In the Western Han Dynasty, in order to maintain the hierarchical order of the ruling class, the imperial court promulgated explicit laws and regulations on the crown materials of ordinary officials and businessmen, which became the beginning of the promulgation and prohibition of clothing. During the Eastern Han Dynasty, the coronation system of the Zhou Dynasty was restored to formal attire, and new contents were constantly added. During this period, Chinese ancient costumes became more and more complete, which became the basis of costume development in past dynasties. The robes of the emperors of the Han Dynasty have five seasonal colors, namely, cyan in spring, scarlet in summer, yellow in the last month of summer, white in autumn and black in winter. In the Han dynasty, officials' clothes were mostly Zen clothes. Zen clothes and robes are similar in shape and made of single-layer cloth and silk, which were also worn by literati and ordinary people in Han Dynasty. In the Han Dynasty, besides deep clothing, robe clothing and Zen clothing, there were also two kinds of short clothes, shirts and wadding, which were also commonly worn by men.

In ancient China, trousers came into being later than formal dresses, and they were only worn in a certain range at the end of Shang Dynasty. It can be seen that the early pants were pants without crotch.

During the Qin and Han dynasties, men's first clothes changed greatly on the basis of the previous generation. Before the Warring States period, most men only wore crowns on their hair, one was their first clothes and the other was their hair. From the Warring States to the Qin and Han Dynasties, people began to wrap their heads with towels. This towel is made of square towel and silk.

As a symbol to distinguish between high and low grades, the crowns and hats in Han Dynasty have been constantly innovated on the basis of inheriting the ancient system of Zhou Dynasty and accepting the styles of Warring States, and gradually formed a relatively complete and diverse crown and wear system. In the pre-Qin period, the crowns and hats were mainly subordinate to etiquette norms, while in the Han dynasty, the crowns and hats were more subordinate to the feudal pecking system.

The hierarchical order of the Han Dynasty is not only reflected in the crown scarf, but also in the ribbon tied around the waist. The color and weaving method of the ribbon vary with the level and identity of the wearer.

During the Qin and Han dynasties, the one-piece long skirt made of deep clothes has become the main dress for women. Due to the gradual improvement of tops, jackets and long skirts, the typical matching skirts in ancient women's wear in China were basically established.

On the basis of the ancient system, the costumes of the Han dynasty formed a basic formula, which was narrow at the top, wide at the bottom and long at the bottom. Folds have been applied, and decorative patterns are becoming more and more abundant. Xia Shang has become a kind of clothing, which women can wear regardless of their status.

After the Qin Dynasty, foot clothes were called shoes, and the styles and varieties were increasing day by day, mainly including wooden shoes worn during travel and various shoes made of silk, silk, leather and hemp. Heel-toe shoes are the foot clothes of the Han Dynasty, and their shape is upturned shoes, also known as upturned shoes. The upturned toes are an important feature of China ancient foot shoes, and all forms are habitual.

The bun is the main hairstyle decoration form of ancient women in China. Women's hair in the Han Dynasty was decorated with all kinds of jewelry. Step shake is the main jewelry on aristocratic women's hair bun.

(3) uniform of automobile brigade

Armor is a special clothing used to protect the body in ancient wars. From the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period to the Qin and Han Dynasties, with the expansion of the scale of the war, the armor used to protect the head became more and more complete, and the armored armor was widely used. The scales worn on the clothes are more compact and the structure becomes more reasonable. In the battlefield where soldiers meet each other, wearing armor and pockets can not only effectively protect the body, but also strengthen its military strength.

2. Wei and Jin advocated that Dai Bo take off his coat.

Wei Jin to Tang Dynasty is a rich stage of clothing development in China.

Due to the influence of religious ideas, metaphysics and the blending of multi-ethnic cultures, great changes have taken place in Wei and Jin dynasties. On the basis of inheriting the tradition of Qin and Han dynasties, their modeling has formed a new style of the times. Ge Hong of Jin Dynasty wrote a vivid account in "The Ridiculous Chapter of Bao Puzi": "Since the chaos, things have changed repeatedly, with clothes on the crown and money on the sleeves, and the sun and the moon have changed. At first glance, long or short, wide or narrow, high or low, thick or thin, the impermanence it embellishes is just as fast. "

During the Wei and Jin Dynasties, officials, official ceremonies and other ceremonial costumes were generally inherited from the Qin and Han Dynasties, but the daily costumes of literati changed greatly, with broad style as the main performance. At that time, from princes and celebrities to ordinary people, they all wore wide shirts, big sleeves and belts to make clothes. Shirts and clothes widely praised in this period are divided into single and double-breasted clothes, and two cardigans are connected and tied on the chest. In addition, robes, skirts and trousers are also common clothes for men.

Men's first clothes and full clothes in Wei and Jin Dynasties also changed and developed on the basis of inheriting the scarf crown and shoe shape in Qin and Han Dynasties. The hat made in Wei Dynasty aims to imitate the legacy of ancient leather shoes. During this period, wooden shoes have become unisex foot clothes.

Women's wear in Wei and Jin dynasties still adopts the traditional costumes of Qin and Han dynasties, such as long skirts and deep clothes, and is also influenced by the belt of praise clothes, which follows suit. On the other hand, influenced by the northern national costumes, the dresses of women in Jin Dynasty are still narrow sleeves, tight waist and tight body, while the skirts are still wide, showing a trend of thrift and prosperity. This style of clothes became more popular in the Southern and Northern Dynasties and became a temporary feature. Upper-class women's clothing often pursues flashy luxury. Influenced by its fashion, women's hairstyles are also more than those of the Han Dynasty, among which snake bun and high bun are the most representative. The hairstyle of snake bun can be changed at will, and it can be derived into various shapes, which has the characteristics of exquisiteness and elegance.

3. Hu Zhuang and Hanfu are in parallel

During the Southern and Northern Dynasties after Wei and Jin Dynasties, China was frequently at war and the north and south were divided. Because a large number of Han people in the Central Plains moved south, they brought advanced textile technology, promoted the development of economy and clothing, and gradually unified the cultural customs of Han people in the north and south.

During the Northern Dynasties, because nomadic and semi-nomadic people in the north lived in the Central Plains, on the one hand, Han costumes absorbed various forms of Hu clothing in cultural exchanges, and at the same time, Hu clothing was accepted and widely promoted by the whole society; On the other hand, the service etiquette of the Han nationality has also been adopted by the rulers of minority regimes. During this period, the costumes of all ethnic groups were merged and improved on the basis of their respective traditions, which had a positive impact on the development of ancient Chinese costumes. At the end of the Han Dynasty, in the Wei and Jin Dynasties, trousers pleats had been introduced into the Central Plains, and they were widely popular in the Southern and Northern Dynasties, becoming the most common clothing at that time. Trouser pleats are actually a form of clothing with trousers under the coat. Materials include brocade, silk, linen, leather, etc. , usually varies according to the season and the level of the wearer. Trouser pleats are narrow and short, but it is against Chinese etiquette to use them on dresses.

During the Southern and Northern Dynasties, the rulers of various minority regimes were influenced by the cultural customs of the Han nationality, and their clothing styles gradually changed from the Han system. Emperor Xiaowen of the Northern Wei Dynasty carried out a cultural reform, stipulating that Chinese coronation clothes were ceremonial clothes, and the emperor and his officials all wore Chinese clothes, and at the same time issued an order prohibiting Hu clothes according to different official ranks. The robes of this period are no different from those of the Han Dynasty, with five colors, such as red, purple and green. The collar and sleeves are trimmed with variegated colors. This style of clothing was made in the Sui and Tang Dynasties.