The Historical Development of Suits

Germanic national costume originated in southern northern Europe.

It is said that it was worn by fishermen in western Europe at that time. They are accompanied by the sea all the year round, which is convenient for them to make a living in the sea, dress loosely, deduct less and fish. Based on the principle of structural separation and combination between human activity and body shape, a garment sewing method integrating pleating (saving), slicing and sewing is formed, and a popular garment structure model in the future is established. There is also information that the suit originated from the traditional clothing of the British royal family. It is a three-piece suit, men wear the same fabric, and it consists of coat, vest and trousers. In modeling, it continues the basic form of men's clothing, belongs to the orthodox clothing in daily clothes, is widely used, and has influenced the international community from Europe, becoming the world's guiding clothing, that is, international clothing.

Modern suits were formed in the middle of19th century, but their composition characteristics and wearing habits can be traced back at least to Louis XIV in the second half of17th century. /kloc-In the Louis XIV era in the second half of the 7th century, the knee-length coat "Jistekol", the slightly shorter "Best" and the tight trousers "Kyurot" came onto the historical stage, forming the composition form and many wearing habits of modern three-piece suits. Generally speaking, Steckel's front placket has no buttons, only a few buttons above and below the waistline. This is the origin of the wearing habit of modern single-breasted suits, which generally do not button, but only button one button above two buttons.

French aristocrat Philip learned it from fishermen and coachmen.

One autumn, the sky was crisp and there were several white clouds floating in the blue sky. The red leaves all over the mountain set off the blue sky like a red carpet. On this day, the young viscount Philip joined hands with his friends and embarked on an autumn outing. They set out from Paris, went upstream along the Seine River, then went downstream on the Loire River, tasted Nantes wine, and later arrived in Que Nye Le. Unexpectedly, this place has become the birthplace of suits.

Kenazel is a coastal city, where a large number of fishermen go fishing. Because of the beautiful scenery, it also attracted a large number of princes and nobles to come to vacation, and the tourism industry was particularly prosperous. One of the most attractive entertainments for people who come here is to go fishing with fishermen. Philip and his party are also happy to do so. Soon after they came to Nazaire, they invited fishermen to sail out of the harbor and go fishing for fun. Once you catch a fish, you should pull the fishing rod back. The fish here are quite big. Philip found it inconvenient to wear aristocratic clothes, with tight collars and many buttons. Sometimes he pulls so hard that he even breaks his buttons. But as soon as he saw the fishermen, he moved freely, so he carefully observed the clothes worn by the fishermen and found that their clothes were all open-necked and had few buttons. This style of clothes is very convenient for fishing at sea. In other words, opening the collar is very comfortable for people who are hard, and it is also convenient for breathing; Less buttons make it easier to exert force. In labor-intensive operations, there is no need to buckle, and even if it is buckled, it is easy to untie.

Although Philip is a playboy, he has some talents in dressing up. He was inspired by the fisherman's clothes. After returning to Paris, he immediately found a group of tailors to study with him, trying to design a dress that is convenient for life and beautiful. Soon, a fashion came out. Similar to fisherman's clothing, it has less buttons and an open collar, but it is more stiff than fisherman's clothing, which is convenient for exerting strength and can maintain the solemnity of traditional clothing. New clothes soon spread all over Paris and France, and later swept the whole western world. Its style is basically similar to that of modern suits.

Name change

In the west, men's and women's jackets with placket, sleeves and length below hip circumference are generally called "jackets". In China, what people usually call a jacket with belt cuffs at the waist, which is called "JUMPER" in English and "Blouson" in French, belongs to a big family of jackets. "Suit" is also a kind of "jacket", which the British call "casual jacket". /kloc-At the end of 0/9, when this coat and trousers were made of the same material, Europeans and Americans also called them "town clothes". In the 20th century, it was also called "work clothes" or "business clothes" because it was mostly worn by white-collar workers who were active in the political and economic fields.

Style Change Style Change Time Information19 In the 1950s, there were no fixed styles for suits, some were waist-closed, and some were straight. Some have an open pocket in the left chest, while others have no pockets. During the 65438+1990s, suits basically took shape and were widely spread all over the world. Men's suits in the 1940s were characterized by wide waist and small hem, slightly flat shoulders, full chest, large lapels and small cuffs, which obviously exaggerated the straight-line beauty and masculinity of men. At this time, women's coats also use flat shoulders to clip the waist, but the hem is relatively large and looks elegant, full of feminine elegance. In 1950s, men's suits tended to be natural and free, but the change was not obvious. During the same period, women's coats changed greatly, mainly from the original waist to the loose waist, with longer length and wider hem. In addition to lapels, there is also a lapel, and most of the cuffs are sleeved. Since the mid-term, one-piece sleeves have become popular, with stable and elegant shapes. In 1960s, men's suits and women's coats generally adopted diagonal shoulders, wide waist and small hem. The collar and lapel of men's suits are very small; The women's coat is relatively large, with a straight waist and a hip circumference. Sleeves are popular with jumpsuits and cross sleeves. The hip circumference of a suit skirt is vertical to the hem and knee-length. Pants are popular with tight pants and medium-long pants. Men's and women's suits in this period were simple and light in style. In the 1970s, men's suits and women's coats returned to the basic form before the 1940s, that is, flat shoulders and waists, and bell-bottoms (small at the top and big at the bottom) were popular in trousers. Women's short skirts are popular in the early stage, lengthened in the later stage and have a larger hem. Men's and women's suits in this period changed with the passage of time, from the late 1970s to the early 1980s. Mainly for men's suits, the waist is loose, the collar and lapel are moderate in size, and the trousers are straight and naturally symmetrical. Women's suits are popular with small collars and lapels, wide waist and round bottom. The bottoms of women's suits are mostly matched with long skirts with wide hems. These clothes are simple and elegant in shape, with romantic colors. It is popular in China.

1Around the 1940s, suits were introduced to China, and students studying in China wore suits. After half a year's research, researchers of Ningbo Fashion Museum found that the first suit shop opened by China people was Li Shunchang's suit shop founded in Suzhou in 1979 by Ningbo people Li Yu/KLOC-0, instead of Jiang Yu/KLOC-0, Fenghua people of Hechang, who opened it in Shanghai in 1996, which pushed forward the history of Ningbo "Red Gang" and China's suit history by 65,438+. 19 1 1 year, the government of the Republic of China listed this suit as one of the formal dresses. After 19 19, suits, as a symbol of new culture, impacted the traditional robes and mandarin jackets, and the suit industry in China developed, gradually forming a large number of "Fengbang" tailors specializing in making suits, mainly concentrated in Fenghua, Zhejiang.

After 1930s, China's suit processing technology enjoyed a high reputation in the world. In Shanghai, Harbin and other cities, there are some suit shops specializing in high-end suits and dresses, such as Shanghai's Peromont and Hengsheng, which are famous at home and abroad for their exquisite craftsmanship. In addition, various schools have been formed in China's suit making, among which Russian school and Shanghai school are more popular. The suits made by Luo Pai, represented by Harbin, have Russian characteristics. Shanghai-style suits, represented by Shanghai, are soft and fit, with European and American characteristics. From 65438 to 0936, Gu, who returned from studying in Japan, published the book "Introduction to Suit Cutting" for the first time, and founded a training class on suit cutting, which trained a group of professionals who made suits, and played a certain role in promoting the spread of suit making technology.

After the founding of New China, Chinese tunic suit has always been the mainstream clothing. After the reform and opening-up, with the liberation of ideas and the rapid development of economy, western clothing represented by suits has once again flooded into China with an irresistible trend of internationalization. People no longer discuss whether it has been crossed by any class, but ignore its ambiguous symbol and significance. China people who want to connect with the international market seem to take the initiative to accept this strange but fresh clothing culture with a challenging psychology. As a result, a "suit fever" swept across the land of China, and China people showed higher enthusiasm for suits than westerners, and wearing a suit and tie gradually became a fashion.