Traditional Culture Encyclopedia - Traditional stories - What clothes does Hanfu specifically refer to? What kinds of Hanfu are there?

What clothes does Hanfu specifically refer to? What kinds of Hanfu are there?

Hanfu, the full name is "the traditional costume of the Han nationality", also known as Hanfu, Huafu and Huafu. From the accession of the Yellow Emperor to the mid-Kloc-0/7th century (late Ming and early Qing Dynasty), in the main residential areas of the Han nationality, with the "Huaxia-Han" culture as the background and the Chinese etiquette culture as the core, through natural evolution, a unique Han personality was formed, which was obviously different from other nationalities. It is the embodiment of China's "country of clothes", "country of etiquette", "country of splendid china" and "country of Cyrus", bearing the excellent craftsmanship and aesthetics of the Han nationality, and inheriting more than 30 Chinese intangible cultural heritages and protected China arts and crafts.

The main forms of Hanfu are "deep clothing" system (upper and lower skirts are sewn together), "upper and lower skirts" system (upper and lower skirts are separated) and "short skirt" system. Among them, the crown dress and the court dress under the coat are the most solemn and formal dresses for emperors and officials; Robe clothes (deep clothes) are common clothes for officials and scholars, while skirts are popular among women. Ordinary working people generally wear short clothes and pants.

Although the styles of Hanfu are various and complicated, including dresses, uniforms and special costumes, careful analysis shows that according to the overall structure, they are mainly divided into three categories. The first is the "deep coat" system, that is, the "upper coat and lower skirt" are connected together. Upper and lower dress system is the most typical one. Because it is connected from top to bottom, it is called a deep coat. Including straight clothes, crooked clothes, robes, straight clothes, robes, etc. It belongs to long clothes. The most representative of deep clothes is that the top and bottom skirt are cut separately and connected at the waist; The upper and lower skirts are cut separately and then sewn together. Finally, clothes are still a style. For convenience, the clothes are sewn together, but the cutting of the upper and lower parts follows the ancient tradition. Deep clothes can be worn by both men and women. It can not only be used as a dress, but also be worn everyday. This is a very practical dress. It is also the clothes of monarchs, officials and literati when they live in Yanju, which refers to informal occasions and belongs to casual clothes. The popularity of Shenfu is very high, which has been circulated for more than 3,000 years. From the pre-Qin period to the end of Ming Dynasty, the Shenfu system was gradually formed.

The second is the "deep service" system, which is divided into "up and down", including coronation and porch, and is the formal dress for the monarch and officials to participate in grand ceremonies such as sacrifices. As the name implies, it is divided into clothes worn on it and clothes worn below. Huaxia clothing has advocated top and bottom since ancient times, stipulating that "clothes are in the right color, and the top color is in the right color", that is, the top color is pure and the bottom color is staggered. This way is like "Heaven Xuan Dihuang", because the sky is made of light gas, so it is made of solid color, and the earth is made of heavy turbid gas, so it is made of intermediate color.

The third type is the "skirt" system, which mainly includes high-breasted skirts, high-waisted skirts and double-breasted skirts. In fact, it also belongs to the top-down skirt system. However, there are not many etiquette rules in this way, which is generally used for uniforms. Skirts are also the biggest embodiment of upper and lower clothing. "Comb your hair on three sides and dress in two stages" has become a description of the characteristics of traditional women's wear.

The styles of Hanfu are mainly characterized by horizontal collar (both round neck and straight collar) and right slit. It has no mouth, no lace, big sleeves are taking off their coats, and the lines are soft and smooth, elegant and smart. And what pays for it is the soul that runs through it. The cutting method of Hanfu has always been plane cutting. There are no darts and shoulder slopes, and the materials used are generally greater than the minimum need to cover the human body. Therefore, whether it is the big sleeve clothes in Qin and Han dynasties or the big sleeve shirts in Ming dynasty, the sleeves are much longer than the arms, and even if they are put on, the sleeves are very fat. There are also narrow sleeves at different times to facilitate labor.