Traditional Culture Encyclopedia - Traditional stories - Please, do me a favor, the Manchu characteristics of the dress, food, dwelling, composition.
Please, do me a favor, the Manchu characteristics of the dress, food, dwelling, composition.
Historically, Manchu men wore robes and coats with horseshoe sleeves, with sashes around their waists, or wore robes covered with lapel coats, and wore cool hats in summer and leather sloppy hats in winter. Clothes like to use green, blue, brown and other colors of cotton, silk, silk, satin and other textures of the clothing material production, trouser legs tie green leg bands, feet wear cotton boots or leather boots, winter wear leather Ula. The top is left braided and the surrounding hair is shaved.
Women like to wear foot-long cheongsam or kangsam. Clothing like to use a variety of colors and patterns of silk, flower satin, rosa or cotton and linen clothing made. Some of the cheongsam face embroidered into a set of patterns, more in the lapel, cuffs, neckline, hem set with multiple layers of fine lace. They wear white socks, embroidered shoes with flowerpot soles, and leggings with leg bands of various colors such as green, red, and pink. They wear their heads and wings in a two-handled bun or a flag bun. They like to wear earrings, bracelets, rings, headpins, big pompoms and sideburns and other decorations.
Manchu men and women love to hang ornaments on their waists or on the lapels of their clothes. Men have fire sickle, ear spoon, toothpick, eyeglass case, fan belt. Women have scented pouches, wallets and so on. Most of the satin sewing, color varieties, beautifully made. After the customs, Manchu cheongsam has been common among Chinese women.
Manchu dress form
Hat: Manchu women without hats, men have hats, hats, hats, hats, felt hats, kunqiu hats (women's winter cold);
Dress: there are four forms: cheongsam (that is, robes), coats, kangsam, pants. Cheongsam does not distinguish between seasons, men and women can wear. The waistcoat, on the other hand, is worn by wealthy men with status in spring, fall and winter. The kangshi is a woman's jacket. Sets of pants are cotton pants without waist, fixed with two straps, mostly worn by elderly women in cold days. Manchu people wear pants with other ethnic groups is different from the leg straps that must be tied in order to travel.
Shoes: men's shoes for the cloth bottom tie, shoe face inlaid with double leather strips. In winter, they wear pigskin or cowhide boots, and most of the elderly wear high-waisted felt shoes. Women wear shoes under the narrow upper width, the tip of the shoe face protrudes on the wing, both sides of the green flowers, shaped like a small boat with a wooden bottom high pile shoes. Specifically, there are horseshoe shoes, flowerpot shoes, flat shoes, square shoes, pointed shoes;
Jewelry: Manchu people wear jewelry sub-bone jewelry, stone jewelry, bead jewelry, gold and silver jewelry. Choose to wear which kind of jewelry according to the status of identity, generally speaking, the good and bad jewelry can be seen in the status of the high and low, the family's rich and poor.
Manchu clothing classification
Cheongsam
Manchu clothing colors are mostly elegant white, blue-purple, red, pink, yellow, black and other colors are also commonly used in their costumes. White is an important color in Manchu dress, because, traditionally, the Manchu have the custom of white, white is clean, noble, white symbolizes good luck, so, in Manchu dress often in red, blue and other colors of the cheongsam with white lace.
Manchu women are good at embroidery, they embroidered flowers, grass, cranes and deer, dragons and phoenixes and other auspicious motifs on their lapels, shoes, purses, pillows and other items.
After the Manchu people entered the customs, many Han Chinese lucky symbols such as Fu, Shou, Wan and other words often appeared in the dress pattern. Although the Manchu dress has a strong national traditional characteristics, but also with the development of its history in the continuous evolution, especially after the Manchu into the customs, the long term with the Han mixed, in the clothing styles, clothing colors and clothing patterns have different degrees of evolution.
Exquisite and colorful Manchu costumes
Manchu were basically organized into the eight banners in the Qing Dynasty, and there was the name of the Banner People, so this kind of Manchu men and women, young and old, suitable for all seasons of the clothing is known as the cheongsam. The style is divided into two kinds of men and women. Early Qing Dynasty men's cheongsam for the round neck, lapel, arrow sleeves (horseshoe sleeves), four slits, buckle tabs, waist belt. Slit on all sides is to ride freely, arrow sleeve is convenient for archery, and can protect the back of the hand from the cold. Winter in the cotton robe outside often set a long to the navel, four-sided slits, lapel short coat, commonly known as horse coat (Manchu Eduoh). There is also a jacket a vest (commonly known as shoulders). The end of the Qing Dynasty. Changed from four slits to the left and right two slits, arrow sleeves changed to flat sleeves. Women's cheongsam basic and men's robes with the same, just in the neckline, lapel, cuffs and other places decorated with lace, when it is cold, plus a coat or vest outside the robe. During the years of the Republic of China, women's cheongsam was changed to a loose bodice, slightly tight waist, slightly wider hips, hem slightly closed style, this close-fitting cheongsam, which can better show women's dignity and elegance and the beauty of the body. At the end of the fifties of this century, the male cheongsam was gradually abandoned in Manchu settlements, and the female cheongsam is not only loved by Manchu women to this day, but also worn by women of other nationalities.
The horseshoe sleeve is the sleeve of the Manchu cheongsam for both men and women in the Qing Dynasty, also known as the arrow sleeve. At the beginning of the Qing Dynasty, Manchu men served cheongsam, narrower cuffs, sleeve end more than a long can be exposed to the fingers of the semi-circular animal skin (later changed to cloth), because of its shape resembles a horse's hoof and the name of the horseshoe sleeve. Advantages are convenient for archery in battle and hunting, and protect the back of the hand from cold. After the middle of the Qing Dynasty, the sleeve type of clothing gradually from the plainclothes to dress, plainclothes more for the flat sleeve, dress is still horseshoe sleeve. Normally more rolled up, in the office, festivals, pay respects to the boss, kowtow to the elders, must be the first left after the right to put down the horseshoe sleeves, only feasible to pay respects. There will also be horseshoe sleeves with buttons tied to the cuffs of civilian clothes as a dress with. Manchu women's dresses are also mostly horseshoe sleeves. During the Republic of China years, gradually not used.
Wulong belt is also a traditional Manchu dress, also known as vest, in fact, sleeveless coat. It has a collar, and the length of the garment is as long as the abdomen, mostly with slits on both sides, and is decorated with colorful patterns on the edges of the collar and lapel. There is a lapel, lapel, pipa lapel and other styles and cotton, leather, folder, yarn points. Inner Mongolia's Manchu men like pipa lapel kangshi. Its style is to sew the lapel into an arc, that is, the lapel from the neckline to the right shoulder and down against the chest, but not in the end, and left to the navel, so that under the lapel is missing a small section, its style is for the convenience of the horse on the reason. Women's kangshi more for the lapel type, the lower end of the lapel more for the Ruyi head type, the edge of the clothes more set to colorful lace. The dress is narrow in the Qing Dynasty, mostly worn in the cheongsam, since the end of the Qing Dynasty is still wide, more sets in the cheongsam outside. Because of its beauty and practicality, so far in horqin right wing front banner Manchu tun Manchu township and karachin banner ten family Manchu township still have older people wear.
Ula is one of the traditional cold-proof boots and shoes of the Manchu people. Sewn with pig, cow, deer and other animal skins. The shape of the front pointed after the round, the upper through six lugs, the mouth of the shoe near the foot padded with lining cloth, and a thin belt linking the boot lugs. The shoes are wide, and one of the "three treasures of the Northeast", Wula grass, must be padded in the shoes when they are worn. Due to the soft and lightweight Ula, free action, both cold, but also conducive to military campaigns and hunting life, so it has been used down to this day in Hulunbeier City, Inner Mongolia, some of the remote mountain villages can still be seen.
Manchu clothing culture
Ming Dynasty, south to Liaodong region of the Manchu people, their clothing is cloth, leather and both. Until Nurhachu led the troops after the war, their clothing is disorganized, the phenomenon of "up and down the same clothes". Until Huang taiji era, the crown began to have customized. After the customs, from the emperor to the soldier's crown, summer and winter replacement, are customized, insurmountable. As for the idle flag, men are robes, made of silk or cloth, coat and waistcoat, until the Xinhai Revolution, the rate as usual. Manchu women's cheongsam, more development, like to make with silk. In Beijing and other places prevalent "eighteen inlay" practice, that is, set eighteen ways to look good, the style has become a wide robe with big sleeves, for a generation of Qing fashion. After the Xinhai Revolution, the style of cheongsam from fat to thin, and have long and short-sleeved points. After continuous improvement, the general style is: straight collar, narrow sleeves, right open lapel, nail buckle trip, tight waist, dress length to below the knee, both sides of the fork.
Nu and hachi in the unification of the female real tribes, the establishment of the Jin regime, the implementation of the eight banners system, the Manchu people in the flag, so they wear robes will be called "cheongsam". After the Manchu aristocrats ruled the country, the Qing Emperor Huang taiji that the Qing emperor should maintain the national way of life and traditional habits, especially to maintain the ruler of the national symbol of the dress system, as the foundation of the country. So they began to develop and improve the Qing dynasty's clothing system, and three orders, not allowed to Prince Ministers to learn the Han people wear praise clothing, wide robe and big sleeves. Requirements in the court of the maidservants and slaves are with Manchu clothing, Han Chinese adult male clothing and hair style must comply with Manchu habits, only after death into the convergence of the funeral can be used with the Han Chinese clothing!
The cheongsam is the traditional dress of Manchu women. The cheongsam is characterized by a standing collar, right lapel, tight waist, hem slit. The ancient cheongsam has pipa lapel, ruyi lapel, oblique lapel, piping or edging. After the 1920s, the cheongsam was improved to have a loose waist, wide cuffs, and moderate length, making it easy to walk. It has become a more popular garment for Chinese women. In the early thirties, influenced by the short skirts of the West, the length was shortened to near the knee and the cuffs were narrowed. In the mid-1930s, it was lengthened again, with high slits on both sides, emphasizing the curvature of women's body shape. In the 1940s, the cheongsam was shortened, short-sleeved or sleeveless, and streamlined. Later, the front and back of the garment were separated, and there were shoulder seams and sleeve-type cheongsam dresses and so on. The cheongsam has oriental color, can fully show the elegant elegance, is considered to be the expression of the female beauty of the typical national costume, known as the world.
The women's cheongsam is basically the same as the men's, but with more decorations. Women's cheongsam is also in addition to the upright wide-breasted large-sleeved gown, hem and calf, with embroidered decorations. Manchu women are often in the lapel, collar, sleeve edge, etc., inlaid with a few flower patterns or color teeth, commonly known as "painting Roader" or "dog teeth". According to the seasonal changes, can also be divided into single, clip, cotton, leather and so on.
With the development of society, men's cheongsam gradually abandoned, women's cheongsam continues to evolve, from the wide waist straight gradually became a tight fit curve, streamlined, and became the representative of the Chinese nation of a women's clothing.
The cheongsam is the Manchu men, women and children wear all year round clothing, it is cut simple, garden collar, wide front and back lapels, while the sleeves are narrower, four pieces of tailoring, longer slits, easy to get on and off the horse; narrow sleeves, easy to shoot arrows. Because the mouth of the sleeve is attached to the horseshoe-shaped sleeve guard, also known as the horseshoe sleeve. In the Manchu people gradually out of the riding career, horseshoe sleeves have become decorative, and put down the horseshoe sleeves is still the Manchu people to the elders, honored the ritual of homage.
The women's cheongsam is more decorative than the men's. The collar, front placket and cuffs of the sleeves are more decorative than the men's. The collar, front and cuffs are decorated with embroidery. With the change of time, the cheongsam style has changed a lot, and the four-piece cut system has been changed to two-piece cut system. The cheongsam can well express women's body and curves. The picture shows the vest worn by Manchu women over the cheongsam. It is embroidered with delicate patterns. A Manchu woman wearing a cheongsam for a court dance. Men wearing traditional Manchu cheongsams, including robes with arrow sleeves and a vest, and hats for Manchu men.
The cheongsam is called "yijie" in Manchu. Divided into single, clip, leather, cotton four kinds. This "clothes are even clothes" (ancient on the clothes, under the clothes) and the Han Chinese on the clothes under the clothes of the two cuts of the clothes have obvious differences. It is the Manchu men like to wear clothing, also known as the big shirt, robe. Manchu men wear cheongsam, its style and structure are relatively simple, the original Manchu riding with a round neck (no collar after the custom of adding a false collar), lapel, narrow sleeves, four-sided open purification, left-over-oblong, with a buckle trip, belt, suitable for horseback riding and hunting. Manchu women wear cheongsam, beautiful and generous style, pay attention to the decoration, collar, sleeve head, lapel are embroidered with different colors of lace, some as many as a dozen ways, wear up well-proportioned slim, graceful. There is a women's cheongsam called "big sleeves", the pattern embroidered in the sleeves, "pulled" out more beautiful. Manchu women wear cheongsam, from style to workmanship are very sophisticated. In the cheongsam collar, lapel, sleeve edges inlaid with a few flower strips or color teeth, some also set on 18 edges to be considered beautiful. The style of the cheongsam later underwent some changes, the opening of the purification from four sides into two sides; hem also changed from wide to convergence; cuffs also from narrow to fat, and from fat to thin, so that it wears a better fit. Now wearing the cheongsam is not limited to Manchu women, it has become one of the favorite clothing of women of all nationalities.
Women's flag shoes
Manchu women's flag shoes, known as "inch shoes", also known as "horseshoe shoes". The middle part of the sole is embedded with a 3-inch-thick wood, wrapped with a fine white cloth, and the wooden heel is not on the ground, which is often decorated with embroidery or beads, and is named because the sole plane is horseshoe-shaped; there is another kind of shoe with a flowerpot-shaped bottom, called "flowerpot bottom shoes"; the flag shoes worn by elderly and working women are made with a flat wooden bottom, called "flat bottom embroidered shoes". The flag shoes worn by elderly women and laboring women have flat wooden soles, which are called "flat embroidered shoes", also known as "net cloud shoes". Manchu women's shoes are embroidered on the surface, while socks are mostly made of cloth, with patterns on the soles. Manchu women's shoes with high soles. Manchu women are days foot, old custom like to wear wooden shoes with high soles, the middle of the sole to the wood, before the flat after the round, on the thin under the wide, its shape and landing marks are like a horseshoe, so the name. Bottom up to three or four inches, after the Beijing flag women have seven or eight inches. Wooden bottom wrapped around the white cloth. Upper, the rich more satin for the quality, the poor cloth for the, are color embroidered floral patterns, plain and no flowers, the most forbidden, in order to be close to the murder of the service. Noble women often decorated with jewels and jade on the upper, or in the toe of the shoes with tassels. Young girls to thirteen or fourteen years old began to use. After the Republic of China, has not been seen.
Horse Coat
It is a kind of coat often worn by Manchu men when they ride horses. It is divided into various forms such as big lapel, pair of lapels and pipa lapel. Horse coat after the daily cover in the robe outside the clothing. High collar lapel, four-sided open purification, long and waist, slightly shorter sleeves, robe sleeves can be exposed to three or four inches, the robe sleeve rolled in the coat sleeve above, the so-called big and small sleeves. Now many Manchu people wear the lapel small cotton jacket, it is from the evolution of the waistcoat. In order to ride a horse conveniently, in the robe outside the set of a body length to the umbilicus, the four sides of the open purification of the short coat, in order to protect the wind and cold. Now many Manchu people wear the lapel small cotton jacket, is evolved from the horse coat.
Kan-shou
Kan-shou is not the original Manchu clothing, is the evolution of the Han's "half-arm". The kangshi is divided into the lapel, twisted lapel, a lapel, pipa lapel and so on. Women wear the kangshi also embroidered with flowers and chain edges. Cotton and clip, or silk or cloth, more in the robe outside.
Dalapin
The Qing Dynasty Manchu aristocratic women's hair style. Prevalent in the Guangxu and Xuantong years. Its style, top hair combed into a round bun, the back of the head hair is swallow-tail style. Another black satin, velvet or yarn made of "not" shaped soap board, said "head plate", the bottom of the wire made of buckle bowl-shaped, called "head seat", buckle in the top of the head on the bun, and use the hair twisted, make the It was fastened to the topknot of the head and twisted with hair to make it fixed. This kind of fixed decoration, "as high as a pagoda," is put on the head when it is used. Usually, a large colorful silk flower is worn in the middle of the head plate, called "Touzheng" or "Duanzheng Flower", and decorated with beads, emeralds, jade hairpins, stepstones, and flowers, or a colorful silk spike is attached to the right side. This hair style is named after the head plate that looks like two wings spread out.
Leg warmer
Mostly for the lower Manchu people in the countryside in the winter wear a kind of leather shoes. Sewn with cowhide or pigskin, legwarmer grass inside, both lightweight, but also warm, suitable for winter hunting, running ice. It is very characteristic of one of the Manchu dress, has been worn in the rural areas of Northeast China.
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