Traditional Culture Encyclopedia - Traditional stories - Ancient dress culture how beautiful, why no longer inherited it?

Ancient dress culture how beautiful, why no longer inherited it?

Shunzhi two years on July 9, the Qing court promulgated the "easy to dress order" stipulates that "officials and citizens have shaved their hair, clothes and crowns are appropriate to comply with the system of this dynasty." Forced people of all ethnic groups to change the Manchu dress. This is the so-called "shaved hair to change clothes".

While the policy of "shaving hair and changing clothes" has long been out of the historical stage, however, its influence has continued to this day. Manchurian dress has long been "popular" in China, cheongsam, Tang suit and even "to the world", is generally recognized as a symbol of traditional Chinese dress. The shaving of the hair and the changing of clothes aggravated the ethnic conflict of the Qing Dynasty, suppressed the advanced culture and ideas of the Han Chinese, and was the hard evidence of the ethnic oppression practiced by the Qing government. It is also the hard evidence of the national oppression practiced by the Qing government. It is also called "the six evils of the Qing dynasty" together with the literacy prison, the massacre, the enclosure, the charging, the escaping, and the banning of the passes, and so on. Hair shaving, change of clothes, land enclosure, occupation of houses, cast charging, absconding, disturbing, disrupting, social, order, destroying the economy and culture of the Central Plains, frustrating the feelings of the Han people, bringing serious consequences. But because of the backwardness of the Manchu culture itself, leading to have to learn advanced Han culture, accelerating the assimilation of the Manchus. This is dorgon and other bent on maintaining the old customs of manchu Manchu aristocrats never expected.

Traditional clothing has two basic forms, that is, under the clothing system and clothing system. Clothing system, rumored to have begun in the legendary era of the Yellow Emperor, "Yi - Department of Rhetoric," which reads: "The Yellow Emperor, Yao, Shun hanging clothes and the rule of the world, covered by the Qiankun." This legend can be unearthed in Gansu in the pottery culture of colored pottery culture, be confirmed. This can be said to be the basic form of the earliest system of clothing in China.

The clothing system, according to the "interpretation of the name - interpretation of the clothes": "Where the clothes on the said clothes. Clothes, according to also, people rely on to avoid cold and heat. Under the said clothes. Clothing, barrier, so since the barrier also." The shape of the upper garment is mostly cross-necked right overlooking, the lower garment similar to the shape of the apron, the waist tie, the lower tie open. This kind of clothing system has a great influence on later generations. The system of continuous clothing, anciently known as Shamyi, was first created in the Zhou Dynasty. According to a note in the Book of Rites - Deep Clothing, "The name Deep Clothing means that the garment is attached to the clothes and is purely used as a means of collection." Shamyi is similar in structure to contemporary dresses, with the top and bottom of the garment sewn together at the waist, and the collar, sleeves, and train made of other fabrics or embroidered edges. This form of deep clothes, affecting the later generations of clothing, the Han Dynasty women to it as a dress, ancient robes are also used in this form of clothing attached to the form, and even today's dress is also the evolution of the deep clothes system. Since ancient times, the Chinese have attached great importance to the hair style and dress.

The Book of Filial Piety says: "The body hair and skin, received by the parents, do not dare to destroy, the beginning of filial piety", the Chinese people can not shave their hair after adulthood, the hair into a bun coiled on the top of the head. Chinese traditional dress Hanbok has a unique form, its basic features are cross-necked, right overlapping, tie, no buckle, Japan, Korea, Korea, Bhutan's traditional dress are inherited these features.

Manzhou people's customs are very different from those of the Han Chinese in the Central Plains, the traditional hairstyle of the Manchurian male is to shave the front of the skull, sideburns of all the hair, only the back of the skull to leave about a coin area of hair, braided into a long braid hanging down. Manzhou people dress in robes and coats, Manchu clothing is characterized by standing collar, lapel, plate buckle and so on.

In 1644 A.D., King Li Zicheng led the Da Shun troops into Beijing, Ming Chongzhen emperor on, hanging, self, killed. China's Manchurian Qing Dynasty emerged in the Ming Dynasty general Wu Sangui assisted the entry into the Customs, and then the occupation of the region to implement the shaving of hair and clothing, forcing the Chinese people to change their hairstyles to Manchurian hairstyles and wear Manchurian clothing.

Historically, the five hu, tufan, liao (qidan), xixia, jin and qing dynasties all issued orders to shave hair and change clothes. Especially in the Qing Dynasty, the scope of the largest, the longest persistence, the most conflict, the greatest impact, so the "shaved hair and easy to wear" generally refers to the early years of the Qing Dynasty "shaved hair order". It refers to the policy of the Manchu rulers of the early Qing Dynasty to require Mongols, Han Chinese, and other southern minorities to shave their hair in Manchuria. Not everyone had to change their dress: not the Erut, not the Koreans, not the Uighurs, not the Uyghurs, not the Tibetans, but only the Tibetan army.

Despite the Qing army's madness, suppression and killing of rebellious Han Chinese, the Han Chinese people still put up a heroic resistance, such as Jiading and Jiangyin people resisted the shaving of hair and change of clothes from the Shunzhi two years from June to August continuous resistance against the Qing soldiers, which ultimately resulted in the "Jiangyin, eight, ten, one, day", "Jia Ding, Three Massacres" and "Yangzhou, Ten Days". The Qing government also strictly prohibited the possession of Ming Dynasty clothing, and many people were killed because of the possession of Ming Dynasty clothing such as "square scarves", which was labeled as a major crime by the Qing government.

The Manchurian Qing Dynasty vigorously promoted Manchurian dress, forcing Han Chinese to wear waistcoats, long shirts, melon-skin hats and hats similar to felt hats. While the officialdom inherited the Ming Dynasty's complementary clothing, the court dress also line on the system of clothes under the clothes, degree. Successive emperors of the Qing dynasty spared no effort to protect the Manchurian dress, said "the legacy of the ancestors of Manchuria, should always abide by", "a generation of crowns and costumes have a generation of the system", "clothing can not be easily". The first is the "shaving of the hair". In this way, the implementation of the policy of "shaved hair and easy to dress" and the Manchu dynasty began and ended, and has continued until 1911, Xinhai, revolution, the fate of the end.

The Qing Dynasty changed the Manchu dress, but the materials and patterns used in the clothes were influenced by the traditional culture of the Han Chinese of the Ming Dynasty and the Han Chinese of the Central Plains. The traditional dress of the Manchu outside the pass is simple, the material is also mostly used sable, Dongzhu and other native products outside the pass, after entering the pass is a large number of Han silk brocade. The patch on the official uniform of the Qing Dynasty was inherited from the Ming Dynasty (unlike the Ming Dynasty, the "patch" was divided into two halves), and the pattern of the python robe worn by the princes and ministers during the celebrations was also inherited from the Ming Dynasty. In addition, Manchu clothing also from the period outside the customs period is conducive to riding and hunting tight style, evolved with the Han Chinese clothing similar to the more loose style. The changes made after the entry into China are believed to have been influenced by Chinese culture. The Qing Dynasty never changed the dress system, the degree of influence is thought to be under the influence of Han Chinese culture, so that the original Manchu dress thin and narrow style disappeared, this image is thought to be cultural harmony.

The Qing Dynasty prohibited the wearing of Han Chinese clothing, but the emperor himself, or his close ones who were authorized to do so were not subject to this order. Yongzheng has not yet succeeded to the throne, has asked the painter for his own painting a number of Chinese dress portrait, painting not only dressed in similar Chinese clothing, other characters are also dressed in traditional Han Chinese clothing. After the succession is also the same. Such as the "December order", "twelve beauties", "Yin Zhen Xing Lei Tu", "Yongzheng plowing and weaving map" and so on. Qianlong has also repeatedly ordered the then painter famous hand for him to draw Chinese dress portrait, such as "Qing Gaozong Autumn Scene writing map" "happy clearing map" "pine and stone springs between leisure map" "view painting map" "line, music, map" "Lin Xiang Shengmu snow map".

During the Qianlong period, Emperor Gaozong of Qing Dynasty was advised to restore the Chinese dress. Emperor Gaozong himself loved Chinese clothes, the then Manchu ministers were dissatisfied with this, said: "Your Majesty in the Han Cheng like it, but in the Manchu is not also." Ultimately, Emperor Gaozong ordered not to restore the Han Chinese dress, "the clothes can not be lightly said to change," "not for the people who have been offended by the ancestors." At that time, although the emperor can wear Chinese clothes into the painting, ordinary people such as want to imitate is a big crime, such as the Deqing Li son of a person, asked to paint a picture of himself in Chinese clothes, after the news spread, some people go to the government denounced, the government grams have to be arraigned, a son of a bribe everywhere, spending thousands of gold party to get nothing.

After more than two hundred years of influence, improved Manchu dress, replacing the Han Chinese clothing has become the majority of Chinese people cognizant of the representation of Chinese people of all nationalities or traditional dress. Such as the cheongsam, the long robe and the horse coat, and so on.

After the APEC meeting held in Shanghai in 2001, the traditional dress worn by the representatives of the leaders, though called Tang suit, was actually a waistcoat. Some in Chinese society today advocate a campaign to "restore the Hanbok" in the hope of promoting and encouraging Han Chinese to wear the traditional Hanbok again, but it has failed to become a trend under the influence of the high degree of westernization of modern Chinese clothing. Officials, however, have taken some steps to protect traditional culture: on the official 56 Nationalities website, the Han Chinese costume has been replaced with a picture of a Han Chinese woman in a dress, although features such as right-over-oblong and cross-necked are covered by sleeves, a preliminary indication of official support.

This move is so devastating to China's popularity, and its intention is extremely profound and poisonous. As for the clothing decoration, seemingly insignificant, but the ethnicity of the same, is a cultural symbol, with the military, force, invasion, strategy of foreigners, forced to make the former ethnic groups, abandon their old costumes and imitate their own, not only to destroy their culture, but also forced to add a kind of yielding to the logo.