Traditional Culture Encyclopedia - Traditional stories - Spring and Autumn and Warring States period of dress characteristics of the compilation
Spring and Autumn and Warring States period of dress characteristics of the compilation
The dress characteristics of the Spring and Autumn and Warring States period
(1) The robe cutting method has two kinds of positive cutting and oblique cutting.
Positive cutting method: the robe is divided into two parts of the upper garment, the upper garment is cut **** 8 pieces, 2 pieces of the body width of 32 centimeters, 3 pieces of each double sleeve, width 42 cm, 43 cm, 45 cm. After the above 8 pieces are put together, they are then sewn together from the bottom. Under the armpits where the sleeves meet the body, a rectangular piece 37 cm long and 24 cm wide is put together to make it easier for the arms to move up and down. The collar edge is made of a tapestry with a wefted floral pattern, and is cut so that it extends 44 centimeters down to the lapel portion. The lower part of the dress is cut in five pieces, the front two pieces of the large and small lapels are each 45 centimeters wide, and the other three pieces are each 41 centimeters wide. The train and hemline are cut straight and sewn together.
Slant cutting method: the upper part of the body and double sleeves are cut diagonally, ***8 pieces, width 23 cm, 26 cm, 17 cm, sleeve edge, collar edge also cut diagonally. The lower part of the garment is cut squarely ***8 pieces, each piece ranging from 20cm to 37cm wide.
There are three types of robe styles.
The first type has a concave back collar and a triangular cross-neck front collar. The two sleeves are slanting outward, and the widest sleeves are under the armpits with small cuffs. This type is smaller in size and more practical.
The second type has straight sleeves, wide cuffs and short sleeves. The back collar is straight, and the front collar is a cross collar (triangle). The body is looser, for the cover on the surface of the robe.
The third type of long sleeves, the lower part of the sleeve is curved (the curved line under the sleeve is called the ? Hu? According to "Hou Han Shu? According to "Later Han Book?", it is designed after the shape of a cow with a hanging beard under its neck). The body of the garment was loose and had a luxurious demeanor. This style continued to be popular in the Western Han Dynasty.
The above three types, all for the cross-necked, right overlapping, straight train type, the upper garment and the lower garment into one. In addition to the observation of Changsha Warring States Chu tombs unearthed on silk painting figures and wooden figurines, there is still a lapel right to the back of the body in a triangular extension of the curved train robe style, the object in Changsha, Hunan Province, Mawangdui, the first tomb of the Western Han Dynasty has been found.
(2) Zen clothes with cross-necked, right-over-oblong, straight train, the upper garment is connected to the lower garment, and the double sleeves are in the shape of a hu.
(3) The jacket is knee-length, cross-necked, right-over-oblong, with a straight train, and the upper garment is connected to the lower garment.
(4) 〓 (qiū yin qiu) clothing is a short-sleeved lapel coat, the word 〓 can be connected with the word coverlet. It is made by cutting the upper part of the whole piece of material, folding it into two sleeves, folding the lower part into two lapels, and then using embroidered silk to set the collar, the two lapels, the hem, and the cuffs, etc. The two lapels are made in pairs. The two lapels are centered on each other (lapel style), the waist and the hem are equal in width, and the back of the collar is concave. The original size is very small, and it was specially made for martyrdom, and it was placed in a small bamboo tansu, and a bamboo stick was tied to the outside of it to call itself a 〓 garment.
(5) The hem of the single skirt is slightly larger than the waist of the skirt, and the skirt is pieced together with 8 pieces of stitching, the widths of which are 27 centimeters, 27 centimeters, 27.5 centimeters, 26 centimeters, 27 centimeters, 24 centimeters, 27 centimeters, 26 centimeters, and the width of the edge of the hem is 12.5 centimeters.
(6) The sheer hakama consists of two parts: the hakama waist and the hakama feet, 4 pieces for the hakama waist, and 2 pieces for each hakama foot, each piece is 30.5 cm wide and 45 cm long. Each piece is 30.5 centimeters wide and 45 centimeters long. The foot of the hakama consists of 2 pieces each, 1 of which is made of silk, 50 centimeters wide and 61 centimeters long. The other piece is made of half silk, 25 cm wide and 59 cm long. The upper part of the foot of the hakama has a rectangular hakama crotch 12 cm long and 20 cm wide, with one wide edge joining the waist of the hakama, and one edge sewn onto the foot of the hakama, folded into a triangle and unfolded in the shape of a funnel. At the bottom of the foot of the hakama is a 32 cm long, 9 cm wide striped piece of hakama trim, which forms the small opening of the hakama, and the foot of the hakama is inlaid with silk sashes at each seam. Embroidered silk is used as the fabric, with a deep yellow silk lining. The upper part of the foot of the hakama is attached to the waist of the hakama. However, the two crotches are not connected. The back waist is open to form a crotch. The width of the waist of the hakama is 0.5 centimeters, and the length of the hakama is 116 centimeters.
(7) The cap is unfolded in the shape of an irregular dome, and when folded, it is high in the front and low in the back, with a convex top and a round hole. The back of the cap is equipped with a group of two bundles of tape on the inside, which should be the cap system. The height is 18.5 centimeters, the length of the front side is 25 centimeters, and the length of the back side is 40 centimeters. Material reddish brown silk, lining material dark yellow silk; large diamond pattern brocade edging.
(8) hemp shoes front pointed semi-circular, side view was gently sloping, the inner layer of grass, the surface of the linen cloth painted black lacquer; and then outside the package brocade surface. The bottom of the shoe is knitted with twine, and 27 circles are knitted from the middle to the outside, one by one. The bottom is knitted with many nipple-like knots. It is 23 centimeters long and 5 centimeters high.
Economic Development of Spring and Autumn and Warring States
During the Eastern Zhou period, the use of iron agricultural tools and the popularization of oxen plowing greatly improved the agricultural productivity. Many wastelands were reclaimed as good fields, and the cultivation technology shifted from rough to fine plowing, and the agricultural output increased greatly. With the increase of private fields, the well-field system collapsed and the land relationship developed towards privatization. The lords had to carry out reforms one after another, recognizing the private ownership of land, allowing the sale and purchase of land, and levying taxes on the landowners, so that the farmers were highly motivated to produce.
During the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period, the number of horses increased due to the need for war. The animal husbandry in the Central Plains was basically turned into a vassal of agriculture, and there were very few people specializing in animal husbandry production.
Casting metal currency emerged in the Spring and Autumn period, Jin is one of the earliest casting and use of cast coins in the region. In the late Spring and Autumn period, the price of grain in Yue was sixty coins per stone at the most expensive time and thirty coins at the cheapest time.
During the Spring and Autumn period, a new tax system was produced. In the fifteenth year of Duke Xuan of Lu (594 years ago), the first tax mu was implemented, and the state levied a certain amount of tax in kind from the owner of the field according to the area of the land. This was the beginning of the ancient field tax. In the first year of Duke Xuan of Lu (590 BC), Qiu A was made, and a certain amount of military tax (A) was levied according to the area of the land, thus making the tax and the tax into one. During the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period, the collection of land tax was already very common. In the seventh year of the Duke of Qin's reign (408 years ago), the state of Qin implemented the "Initial Tax Wo? The first tax of the land tax system was introduced by Qin in the seventh year of Duke Jian (408 BC). The physical land tax system. During the Warring States period, the tax system varied from country to country. Qin first implemented the household registration system, and based on it, levied land rent tax and headcount levy? The first one was to introduce a household registration system, on the basis of which a land rent tax was levied and a head tax was collected. (population tax).
The silk route of the Eastern Zhou spread westward even across the Eurasian continent. At that time, the use of horse-drawn carriages was already very common. At this time, the direct administration of the son of heaven? Wang Qi? In the Rongdi constantly attack and the vassals continue to eat, greatly reduced, and finally, only one or two hundred miles in a radius of Chengzhou, that is, today's western Henan corner of the territory; at the same time, the son of God to control the power of the vassals and the direct possession of the military power, but also the increasing loss of. The son of heaven is not only economically dependent on the vassals, but also politically at the mercy of the vassals. But the son of heaven? ***The name of the emperor was still powerful. still had the power of appeal. Therefore, some vassal states, which gradually became powerful with the development of local economy, utilized the royal family as a banner to to hold the son of heaven to order the vassals? and actively develop their own power.
Currency in Spring and Autumn and Warring States Period
During Spring and Autumn period, with the development of commerce, metal coins showed their superiority in trade activities, gradually replaced the shell money and various practical currencies widely used in the Western Zhou period, and began to form a few currency systems and currency circulation areas with obvious characteristics. This is the middle reaches of the Yellow River Zhou, Jin? The cloth money area? and the Qi seaside area in the east. Sword goods area? and the southern state of Chu. The ant-nosed money? area. During the Warring States period, the social economy showed unprecedented prosperity, the demand for commodity production increased, the circulation of money surged. The currency circulation area in the Spring and Autumn period, to the Warring States period, the scope of further expansion, breaking through the boundaries of the country, knife coins and cloth coins in many countries in parallel. After the middle of the Warring States period, in the north, centered on Wei and Qin, a new currency system appeared? Huan Qian. At the end of the Warring States period, round square-hole money appeared in Qi, Yan, and Qin, and eventually unified China's currency. In addition, the use of gold during the Warring States period began to prevail, in the south of Chu, gold minted coins gold plates are found in many cases.
Zhou, Jin (Sanjin) currency. By the evolution of agricultural money from the original cloth, to the Spring and Autumn period later, gradually detached from the original as the vestiges of agricultural tools, from the category of physical currency differentiated from the real metal minted coins. Because its head still retains the remains of the agricultural tool shovel with an axe to hold the handle, so it is called empty head cloth. It is the transition from the agricultural shovel to the Warring States flat head cloth development. In the early Spring and Autumn period, Zhou, Jin, Wei appeared from the development of the original cloth very large flat shoulders and curved foot cloth and shrug shoulders pointed foot cloth, through the length of 13-16.5 centimeters. In addition, there are also oblique shoulders and curved feet, flat head and square feet and other forms, each large, medium and small. During the Warring States period, three types of currencies were popular in the Zhou and Sanjin regions: the flat-headed cloth, the knife-forming, and the huanqian (圜錢). The three states of Han, Zhao, and Wei minted money, mainly cloth money, and the knife and huanqian were also used at different times and in different regions. Huanqian was mainly practiced in the jurisdiction of Zhou.
Qi currency. Qi is a large country in the east between the sea Dai, with mountains and rivers, fishing and salt, business is very developed, has maintained its own independent knife coinage system, to its late Huanqian appeared. Knife from the spring and autumn period that is popular in qi, many kinds, thick and exquisite. From the face of the text, the shape of the quality, the earlier the shape of the larger, the more refined production. In the later period, the copper quality is gradually rough, and the shape becomes smaller. Inscriptions have been used since the Spring and Autumn period? The method of ink-saving has been used since the Spring and Autumn Period. and? Sets the ink of the legalization? and? An Yang's legalization? "The legalization of Qi"? The legalization of Qi? The legalization of Qi? The legalization of Qi? The legalization of Qi? Qi legalization? There are several types. The first four of these were made with the outer wheel of the blade higher than the handle, while the latter two had the body of the blade at the same height as the outer wheel of the handle. Around the time of Wei and Xuan in the middle of the Warring States period (378-324 B.C.), when the state of Qi was at its peak, the coins and knives in Qi were unified under the name of "Qi Fahua" (齐法化). The Qi legalization was a form of the "Qi". The first was the "Qifaization" of the Qi state.
Yan currency. During the Warring States period, Yan was a large country in the north, the knife, cloth and parallel, Yan Ming knife is its main currency, the late also cast Huan money.
Chu currency. Since the Spring and Autumn period, the southern state of Chu has maintained its unique copper cast shell? ant nose money? system. In the Warring States period, the circulation area of the ant-nose money was more expanded, and at the same time, the zhangjin (爰金) was prevalent, and with the increase of trade with other countries, cloth coins also appeared.
Qin currency. Before the change of law in Qin, the national strength is weak, the possibility of minting money is small, and so far no historical records and physical evidence have been found. If there are coins in circulation, it may be from other countries into the currency. Duke of Qin Xiaogong Shang Yang went to Wei into Qin, reform, Qin gradually strong, minting money is possible. In the Warring States period, the Yuan money began to be used in Wei, and Qin was a close neighbor of Wei. The form of Yuan money circulated in Wei must have been greatly influenced by Shang Yang's entry into Qin. Therefore, it was possible to mint one or two round coins after Shang Yang changed the law. The Records of the Grand Historian (史记). The First Emperor of Qin's History. King Huiwen was born nineteen years ago, and was established in the second year of his reign. The matter refers to the official implementation of the square-hole round-shaped? Half-tael? The money of the Qin state was roughly one tael. The Qin currency was roughly one or two yuan, half a yuan, two sterling coins, twelve baht coins, and half-two coins.
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