Traditional Culture Encyclopedia - Traditional stories - What is the real origin of China cheongsam that Jiang Qipao teacher Jiang said?
What is the real origin of China cheongsam that Jiang Qipao teacher Jiang said?
Official uniforms have been used in court costumes since the Han Dynasty, and the styles of official uniforms are constantly changing from generation to generation. The robes of the Han dynasty were made of deep clothes, and those of the Tang dynasty and the Ming dynasty were all typical wide-body robes. Most of them are worn by intellectuals and the ruling class, and they have become fashionable over time. Robe clothes therefore represent a kind of leisure life of upper-class people and intellectuals who are not engaged in production. Wide shirts and robes, praise belts, have gradually become a symbol of clothing civilization in the Central Plains. The Han and Tang dynasties were particularly prosperous.
During the Liao, Jin, Yuan and Qing dynasties, fitted robes and clothes once dominated the costumes, although they all experienced or showed the process or trend of becoming broad-minded. Because the Qing Dynasty lasted for the longest time and was relatively stable, robes were regarded as typical costumes of the Qing Dynasty, which led to the misunderstanding that cheongsam was a standard-bearer robe. Many cheongsam companies and enterprises have wrongly publicized this view.
During the Shunzhi period (A.D. 1644), the Qing ancestors entered the customs, made Beijing their capital, and then unified the whole country. With the initial stability of the regime, the reform of the military service system began to be implemented. At this point, the traditional crown-wearing clothes are almost completely banned. It is said that for thousands of years, the clothing styles of tops and bottoms have only been kept in the clothes of Han women's homes. Both men and women should wear robes on celebration occasions. There are many kinds of robes, including court robes, dragon robes, embroidered robes and secret robes.
The robes worn by women in the Eight Banners in the late Qing Dynasty were wide and wide, and the lines were straight and tough, reaching to the ankles. "Yuanbao collar" is widely used. Cover your cheeks and touch your ears with the collar high. The robe is embroidered with various patterns, including collar, sleeves, lapels and a plurality of wide piping. During the reign of Xianfeng and Tongzhi, the inlay reached its peak, and some even the whole clothes were inlaid with lace, so that it was almost difficult to recognize the original material. The decoration of robes reached its peak. At this time, the Qing Dynasty was trying to save itself from peril. The Westernization School of the Qing Dynasty put forward the strategy of "learning from middle school as a teacher and using western learning" and sent a large number of international students to study abroad. In China, the importation of western-style students' coats and gowns first appeared, which provided another frame of reference for judging beauty and directly influenced the change of social dress concept. Later, the cheongsam evolved into a new style that blended Chinese and western styles, and its changes influenced by the West can be said to be the beginning.
19 1 1 The sudden outbreak of the Revolution of 1911 overthrew the last feudal dynasty in China's history, cleared the political obstacles for the popularization of western-style clothing in China, and at the same time abandoned the traditional harsh concepts of ethics and ethics, and lifted all kinds of oranges with strict hierarchy in the clothing system. The free transformation of clothing to civilians and internationalization has come naturally, and cheongsam has thus unloaded the heavy burden of tradition. The old robes were abandoned, and the new cheongsam began to take shape in troubled times.
At this time, the fashion center has already moved from Suzhou and Yangzhou to Shanghai. Shanghai is also an important place for women to seek liberation. Missionaries, businessmen and revolutionaries competed to establish girls' schools, which set off a wave of feminist movement. The social atmosphere of seeking liberation, cleaning up the stereotypes and bad habits in clothing and makeup, tends to be simple, strives for elegance in color, and pays attention to reflecting the natural beauty of women. Cheongsam originally appeared in the form of vest, which grew to the instep and was added to the jacket. Later, the long vest was changed into sleeveless style, which became the prototype of the new cheongsam. It is said that the first Shanghai female student who became popular was the first figurine of cheongsam. At that time, female students, as representatives of intellectual women, became the ideal image of society. They are symbols of civilization and pioneers of fashion, even celebrities and fashion figures dressed as female students.
The 1930s and 1940s were the heyday of cheongsam. At this time, the improved cheongsam absorbed the western-style cutting method in structure, which made the robe body more fit, became the standard dress of women in modern China, and was officially determined as the national costume in the Republic of China.
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