Specific introduction of Ming Dynasty costumes

After Mongolian rule in Yuan Dynasty, the tradition of Han nationality was restored in Ming Dynasty, and the clothing system was re-established by Zhu Yuanzhang, the founder of Ming Dynasty. Many popular male hairstyles in Ming Dynasty were initiated by Ming Taizu. For example, "net towel" symbolizes the completeness of national laws and regulations, "square towel" symbolizes national peace, and "melon skin hat" is almost regarded as a typical hat of China by modern westerners.

In the men's wear of the Ming Dynasty, most adults wore long, wide and straight clothes with green cloth and square flat towels on their heads, while ordinary people wore short coats and headscarves.

At this time, a small hat with six petals and eight petals appeared, which looked like a watermelon cut in half. It was first worn by servants, but later it became popular because it was convenient to wear. This is the predecessor of the "melon hat" in the Qing Dynasty.

Most of the ladies in the Ming Dynasty wore robes with big red sleeves, while most women could only wear pink, purple and green and some light colors. Ping wears a shirt and a long skirt every day with a ribbon around her waist. Skirts are very wide, and there are many styles, such as pleated skirts, phoenix-tailed skirts and yuet skirts.

Men's wear:

Coronation: Since the Song Dynasty, the emperor wore almost only one coronation suit.

Hanbok: There are Tian Tong's crown clothes, leather clothes, Hanbok and so on.

Public service: the official service of 100 officials. Everyone uses it.

Official uniforms: Restoring the unification of official uniforms in Tang and Song Dynasties.

Women's wear:

Clothing: worn by the queen when she was deleted, visited temples and attended court meetings.

Zhai Yi: This is the Queen's second dress.

Dress: a big dress for an official or a woman.

There is no difference between the upper and lower skirts in Ming Dynasty and those in Tang and Song Dynasties. Skirts still accounted for a certain proportion in women's wear in the Ming Dynasty. The coat is a long-sleeved coat with a cross collar. The skirt was light in color at first, although it had patterns, but it was not obvious. By the early years of Chongzhen, skirts were mostly plain white, and even if there were embroidery patterns, only a lace was decorated one or two inches below the skirt as a presser foot. At the beginning of the skirt, there were six pieces, that is, the so-called "skirt dragging six pieces of Xiangjiang River water"; After using it for eight times, there are many fine wrinkles at the waist, and the lines are like water lines. By the end of the Ming dynasty, the decoration of skirts became more and more exquisite, and the number of skirts increased to ten. The pleats at the waist are getting denser and denser, and each pleat has a color. The breeze blows, and the color is like a moonlight skirt, so it is called a "moonlight skirt". There is a "uterine tapestry" woven with ribbons on the belt. The specific image and usage of uterine tapestry are shown in the figure. Usually make a few circles in the middle and then drop to the ground. Some even string a Yu Pei in the middle to hold down the skirt, so that it won't spread out and affect the appearance. The function is similar to that of Yuhuan ribbon in Song Dynasty.

The form of dress with a skirt on it is the main dress of women in Tang Dynasty, and it still accounts for a certain proportion in women's dress in Ming Dynasty. The coat is a long-sleeved coat with a cross collar. The skirt was light in color at first, although it had patterns, but it was not obvious. By the early years of Chongzhen, skirts were mostly plain white, and even if there were embroidery patterns, only a lace was decorated one or two inches below the skirt as a presser foot. At the beginning of the skirt, there were six pieces, that is, the so-called "skirt dragging six pieces of Xiangjiang River water"; After using it for eight times, there are many fine wrinkles at the waist, and the lines are like water lines. By the end of the Ming dynasty, the decoration of skirts became more and more exquisite, and the number of skirts increased to ten. The pleats at the waist are getting denser and denser, and each pleat has a color. The breeze blows, and the color is like a moonlight skirt, so it is called a "moonlight skirt". A "uterine tapestry" woven with ribbons is often hung on the belt. The specific image and usage of uterine tapestry are shown in the figure. Usually make a few circles in the middle and then drop to the ground. Some even string a piece of Yu Pei in the middle, so that they won't be ashamed to hold down their skirts.

Ming Wanli has a winged three-eyed dragon with double rows of narrow sleeves and embroidered dragon robes, and the hanging part of the robes has been cut short. From ancient times to the Ming Dynasty, the dragon pattern changed its energy countless times. Generally speaking, the dragon patterns in the pre-Qin period are relatively simple and rough, and most of them have no limbs and claws, similar to reptiles. In Qin and Han dynasties, dragon patterns were mostly animal-shaped, with intact limbs and claws, but without scales. They are often painted as walking patterns, giving people an illusory feeling. The image of the dragon in Ming Dynasty is more perfect, which concentrates the local characteristics of various animals, such as head like a bull's head, body like a snake, horns like antlers, eyes like shrimp's eyes, nose like a lion's nose, mouth like a donkey's mouth, ears like cat's ears, claws like eagle's claws and tail like a fish's tail. The structure and organization of the pattern are also very distinctive. In addition to the traditional dragon walking and Yunlong, there are other names, such as Tuanlong, Zheng Long, Zuo Long, Shenglong and Jianglong, which affect the appearance and have functions similar to those of Yuhuan Ribbon in Song Dynasty. Their jobs. Put on their jobs and hats, and put on robes with narrow sleeves. A "collar" is a high collar with a round brim. This kind of robe is the main clothing style of men in Ming Dynasty, which can be worn not only by bureaucrats but also by ordinary people, but with different colors. The collar clothes worn by ordinary people must avoid dark black, purple, green, willow yellow, turmeric and bright yellow, while others such as blue and ochre are not restricted, commonly known as "variegated collar clothes". Twenty-five years after the founding of the Ming Dynasty, the court made new regulations on official uniforms. All civil and military officials, regardless of rank, must put patches on the chest and back of the robe, with birds for civil servants and beasts for military officers to show the difference. This is the most distinctive costume in the official costume of the Ming Dynasty.

In the late Ming Dynasty, Di Chin peacocks wore feather robes. The whole body is embroidered with dragon patterns. Judging from the clothing style, the style is inclined collar robe, which is the emperor's casual clothes. From ancient times to the Ming Dynasty, the dragon pattern changed its energy countless times. Generally speaking, the dragon patterns in the pre-Qin period are relatively simple and rough, and most of them have no limbs and claws, which are similar to reptiles. In Qin and Han dynasties, dragon patterns were mostly animal-shaped, with intact limbs and claws, but without scales. They are often painted as walking patterns, giving people an illusory feeling. The image of the dragon in Ming Dynasty is more perfect, which concentrates the local characteristics of various animals, such as head like a bull's head, body like a snake, horns like antlers, eyes like shrimp's eyes, nose like a lion's nose, mouth like a donkey's mouth, ears like cat's ears, claws like eagle's claws and tail like a fish's tail. The structure and organization of the pattern are also very distinctive. In addition to the traditional dragon walking and Yunlong, there are Tuanlong, Zhenglong, Zuo Long, Ascending Dragon and Descending Dragon.

Ming Dynasty imperial army uniforms: uniforms, also known as wing crowns, are covered with black gauze and folded with towels. The styles are standing collar, narrow sleeves, embroidered golden dragon patterns on the front and back shoulders, and jade leather boots. This suit has many uses. The official robes of the Ming emperor are yellow silk, embroidered dragon, lent text and twelve chapters. From ancient times to the Ming Dynasty, the dragon pattern changed its energy countless times. Generally speaking, the dragon patterns in the pre-Qin period are relatively simple and rough, and most of them have no limbs and claws, which are similar to reptiles. In Qin and Han dynasties, dragon patterns were mostly animal-shaped, with intact limbs and claws, but without scales. They are often painted as walking patterns, giving people an illusory feeling. The image of the dragon in Ming Dynasty is more perfect, which concentrates the local characteristics of various animals, such as head like a bull's head, body like a snake, horns like antlers, eyes like shrimp's eyes, nose like a lion's nose, mouth like a donkey's mouth, ears like cat's ears, claws like eagle's claws and tail like a fish's tail. The structure and organization of the pattern are also very distinctive. In addition to the traditional dragon walking and Yunlong, there are other names such as Tuanlong, Zheng Long, Zuolong, Ascending Dragon and Descending Dragon.

The queen usually wears a Dai Long rockhopper and a long-sleeved red coat with a robe, a long red dress and a red lapel. The first dress is decorated with dragons and phoenixes, and the clothes are embroidered with golden dragons and phoenixes. The rockhopper is a kind of ceremonial crown with barbed wire as the tire, decorated with a small emerald phoenix and a jewelry tassel. As early as the Qin and Han Dynasties, it has become the prescribed dress of the Empress Dowager, Empress Dowager and Empress. There are two kinds of crowns in Ming dynasty, one is worn by empresses, and the crown is decorated with dragons besides phoenixes. The other is a colorful crown worn by ordinary women, not decorated with dragons and phoenixes, but with beaded flowers. But it is also called a crown corolla, which is a kind of hairpin. It looks like two colored exercises, bypassing the head and neck, hanging on the chest and hanging a golden pendant. Bi Xia appeared as early as the Southern and Northern Dynasties. After Sui and Tang Dynasties, people often praised this kind of clothing as beautiful as rosy clouds, so it was named Bi Xia. Bai Juyi's "Dancing in Dresses and Feathers" is described as "a colorful dress and a summer dress shaking the crown step by step". In the Song Dynasty, it was officially used as a dress, and the embroidery patterns were different with the level.

Official dress and official business in Ming dynasty: official dress in Ming dynasty. It is made of a collar with a right slit and sleeves three feet wide. The patterns and colors used in robes vary according to grades: the first to fourth grades are scarlet; Five to seven products, with cyan; Eight or nine products, green. The pattern is also different, with large flowers with a diameter of five inches; The floret is grade two, with a diameter of three inches; Three kinds of scattered flowers, no branches and leaves, two inches in diameter; Four [five] small flowers, one inch and a half in diameter; Six [seven small flowers, one inch in diameter; Below level 8, there is no pattern. The above clothes, together with feet and hoes, are mostly used for important court meetings. Officials in the Ming Dynasty used to wear the costumes of civil and military officials in the Ming Dynasty, mainly including court clothes, sacrificial clothes, public clothes and regular clothes. Officials wear their work, hoes and robes with narrow sleeves and narrow collars. A "collar" is a high collar with a round brim. This kind of robe is the main clothing style of men in Ming Dynasty, which can be worn not only by bureaucrats but also by ordinary people, but with different colors. The collar clothes worn by ordinary people must avoid dark black, purple, green, willow yellow, turmeric and bright yellow, while others such as blue and ochre are not restricted, commonly known as "variegated collar clothes". Twenty-five years after the founding of the Ming Dynasty, the court made new regulations on official uniforms. All civil and military officials, regardless of rank, must put patches on the chest and back of the robe, with birds for civil servants and beasts for military officers to show the difference. This is the most distinctive official costume in the Ming Dynasty. Kirin robe is the official's royal costume. Its clothing features a large front, an inclined collar, loose sleeves, a waist in front and a full hem below. Embroidered patterns, in addition to the chest and back group, are also distributed at the upper end of the rotator cuff and under the waist (a horizontal bar). In addition, a wide edge made of natural color was sewn under the left and right ribs, which was called "pendulum" at that time. Liu Ruoyu, the eunuch of the Ming Dynasty, described this kind of clothing in his book Proceedings. He said: "It has a continuous back, but it has a pendulum on both sides, two sections in front and a horse face fold under it, starting from both sides." According to the regulations, the materials and patterns used in this kind of clothing have a certain system. "History of Ming Dynasty, Yu Fu Zhi" said: In the thirteenth year of Zheng De, "I gave the minister red silk to store yarn. Its clothing color, bullfighting one product, flying fish two products, python three products, Kirin four or five products, tiger six or seven products; Hanlin technology is not limited to achievements; However, Cao's five products are not harmonious. " The clothes in this painting are embroidered with unicorn patterns. Kirin is an animal in ancient legend, which looks like a deer, with scales, horseshoes and horns. Later generations regarded it as a symbol of good luck and widely used in the decoration of various utensils. The image of Kirin has also undergone some changes. The head is painted as a faucet with two horns, and the tail is painted as a lion's tail. In the Ming Dynasty, the official dress embroidered with Kirin seems to be not limited to four or five products, but can also be worn by the commanding guards of the Royal Guards with special duties. Towels from the Tang Dynasty, but with hard helmets and iron wires as hard legs. Feet are one foot and two inches long, and people with status must wear them. Embroidered robe is a kind of clothing given by the emperor. Wear embroidered robes with jade belts. The embroidered robe is similar to the dragon armor worn by the emperor. It was not included in the official uniform, but was given by the eunuch and Zaifu of the Ming Dynasty. It is considered a great honor to get such a gift.

Men's casual clothes in Ming Dynasty: mostly robes and shirts, mainly with wide chest, right lap and wide sleeves, with knee-length bottoms. The leisure fabrics of aristocratic men are mainly satin, with patterns and tapestries painted on them. Most of the patterns on robes are auspicious. Among the more common clouds and bats, there is a group of "longevity", which means "five bats hold longevity". This pattern was particularly popular in the late Ming and early Qing dynasties, not only in clothing, but also in other utensils and architectural decoration. Decorating casual clothes with real patterns was also a major feature of men's wear at that time. On the other hand, true flower is an abstract decorative pattern, which is usually based on lotus, honeysuckle or peony, distorted and exaggerated, and interspersed with some branches and leaves and buds to form a neat, dignified and lively decorative pattern. This style of clothing was very popular at that time. Since the Tang Dynasty, a large number of precious flowers have entered costumes and become the favorite artistic patterns of the broad masses of the people. In the Ming dynasty, baohua was once a special pattern for emperors and queens, and it was forbidden for people to use it, just like python dragon pattern. But soon the ban was lifted and applied to all kinds of clothing. This painting shows a brocade robe wrapped in branches and precious flowers. The fabric is a brocade with a "precious flower" pattern.

Women's wear in Ming Dynasty mainly includes shirts, coats, gowns, back pockets, bibs and skirts. Most of the basic styles of clothes were imitated from the Tang and Song Dynasties, and they were generally right-handed, which restored the customs of the Han nationality. Among them, Bi Xia, Beizi and Gaby are double-breasted and split left and right. Adult women's clothing, with the changes of family and identity, has a variety of different shapes. Ordinary women's clothes are relatively simple, mainly including skirts, backs, coats, shoulders and robes. Robe evolved from the back, characterized by low collar, double-breasted and wide sleeves, with little or no lace on the collar and sleeves, long and plump.

Women's wear in Ming Dynasty mainly includes shirts, coats, gowns, back pockets, bibs and skirts. Most of the basic styles of clothes were imitated from the Tang and Song Dynasties, and they were generally right-handed, which restored the customs of the Han nationality. Among them, Bi Xia, Beizi and Gaby are double-breasted and split left and right. Adult women's clothing, with the changes of family and identity, has a variety of different shapes. Ordinary women's clothes are relatively simple, mainly including skirts, backs, coats, shoulders and robes. In Ming dynasty, there were wide sleeves and narrow sleeves. Wide sleeve back, only on the skirt, decorated with lace, collar all the way to the hem, narrow sleeves at the back, decorative lace on cuffs and collar, and lace on the collar only to the chest.