Traditional Culture Encyclopedia - Traditional stories - How are shoes classified?
How are shoes classified?
Finished shoes
Men's shoes, women's shoes, rubber shoes, sports shoes and cloth shoes
Sandals, slippers, casual shoes, baby shoes, cotton shoes, children's shoes.
Rain boots, running shoes, boots, student shoes, injection shoes, beach shoes.
Work shoes football shoes hiking shoes skating shoes baseball shoes heightening shoes.
Labor insurance shoes, high heels, golf shoes, tennis shoes and craft shoes
Embroidered shoes, gentleman shoes, snow shoes, flying shoes, storage shoes, skateboarding shoes.
Basketball shoes, travel shoes, fashion shoes and other footwear.
Structure of shoes
1. Fabric: The popular explanation is "the first thing you see on the surface of a shoe".
Fabric materials are divided into: leather, cloth, PU, superfine fiber, etc. Generally speaking, these materials are mainly used as fabrics.
2. Inside: commonly known as "Lippi". Under normal circumstances, boots and spring and autumn shoes are basically available, and some sandals are not necessarily available.
Lining materials are divided into: leather, PU, flannel, etc.
{Tips: Generally, it is lined with genuine leather: pigskin is mostly used, because pigskin is soft and protects feet. And the price is also the most affordable and cheapest among leather materials. }
Knowledge link: Generally, cowhide is the best, wear-resistant and the price is the best. Secondly, sheepskin is softer. This material is especially suitable for winter boots. Finally, pigskin is soft and comfortable to contact with skin, so it is used on the inside. So the price is also the cheapest of the three.
3. Waterproof platform: divided into two types: internal horizontal platform and external horizontal platform. Also known as the "elevated platform for dwarves". The main function of waterproof platform is to "increase height".
4, midsole: commonly known as "the skeleton of shoes." It plays the role of shaping and supporting shoes. There is a steel bar (called "hook") in the middle of the midsole to support the whole shoe.
Note: The higher the heel height, the higher the hardness of the midsole and steel bar, otherwise the heel will fall off. If you wear high heels and don't wear high heels.
5. Heel:
6, Tianpi: 100% Many sellers have never heard of this, and some say something like "small heel" and "skin care". I've never heard of it,
Remember: generally, shoes with heels, if the shoes are of good quality, will basically be accompanied by a pair of leather in the shoe box before leaving the factory.
7. Outsole: "Something that comes into contact with the ground". Generally divided into: leather outsole, leather pulp sole, rubber sole, tendon sole, etc.
In actual production, "rubber soles" are the main products, and leather soles are used for high-grade shoes. Leather soles are expensive. A pair is tens of yuan. If the workers in the factory accidentally dirty the soles of leather shoes, it will be over. Even if the leather bottom is put into the box in the last process, it should be dismantled and changed, because quality is the life of the enterprise. So shoes with leather soles are generally very expensive.
8. Midsole leather: commonly known as "insole" and "foot pad".
The main material of shoes is divided into three parts: surface, bottom and lining.
I. Fabric
All materials used to make uppers are collectively called leather, which can be divided into two categories: natural leather and artificial leather.
1. Classification of natural leather:
1. 1 cowhide:
Divided into cowhide, buffalo hide and so on. Generally speaking, the strength of cowhide is better than buffalo hide. Cowhide can be divided into fetal cowhide, calf cowhide, middle cowhide and cowhide according to the age of cattle. Generally, the lower the age of cattle, the higher the price and the higher the grade, but it does not mean that the higher the price, the better the skin strength. Cowhide can generally be divided into two layers, the first layer is generally used to make leather shoes uppers, and the second layer is generally used to make sports shoes and leather shoes cushions. The price of the first layer of cowhide is much higher than that of the second layer.
1.2 sheepskin:
Divided into sheepskin and goatskin. Generally, the fastness of goatskin is better than goatskin, while the softness and wearing comfort of goatskin are better than goatskin. Sheepskin is generally not distinguished by the age of the sheep.
1.3 pigskin:
Generally, it is less used in uppers, more used in children's shoes, and the price of pigskin is lower, which is generally used in adult shoes to make lippi. Pigskin is generally divided into two layers, the first layer has good strength and the second layer has poor strength, but the price of the first layer is about 5 times more expensive than that of the second layer.
1.4 Other animal skins:
Such as crocodile skin, kangaroo skin, deer skin, lizard skin, snake skin, pearl fish skin, ostrich skin, ostrich foot skin, frog skin and so on. Due to the scarcity of leather sources, shoes made of these animal skins are often expensive, but it does not mean that the wear fastness of these leather materials is very good.
2. The classification of artificial leather:
Generally, the fabrics used to make uppers are all synthetic, collectively referred to as artificial leather. It is generally believed that all vamp fabrics except natural leather are artificial leather fabrics. Generally speaking, the price, wearing comfort and air permeability of artificial leather are worse than those of natural leather. However, due to the complicated manufacturing process, the price of some artificial leather is higher than that of natural leather.
2. soles of feet
2. 1 rubber sole:
Natural rubber is generally wear-resistant, cold-resistant and folding-resistant, with good performance. However, other low-cost materials are often added to the rubber used to make soles. If it is added too much, the folding and wear resistance will be greatly reduced. Rubber soles are often heavy.
2.2 modified PVC (commonly known as plastic bottom):
Poor cold resistance, the lower the temperature, the harder the sole, on the contrary, the higher the temperature, the softer the sole. The folding resistance and wear resistance also depend on the formula, and the PVC bottom is relatively heavy.
2.3 bottom of TPR:
The weight is lighter than PVC and rubber soles, the surface is dull, the cold resistance is good, and the folding and wear resistance also depends on the formula.
2.4 polyurethane bottom (PU bottom):
Light weight, generally good folding resistance, wear resistance and cold resistance.
2.5 Leather sole:
Leather outsole often needs forefoot film, which has good air permeability and sweat absorption, high cost, good cold resistance and folding resistance and general wear resistance. Leather outsole is generally made of cowhide.
2.6 EVA bottom (commonly known as foam bottom):
Light weight, but poor compression resistance, often easy to deform and rebound after being pressed. Good cold resistance, wear resistance and folding resistance.
2.7 Composite bottom plate:
The sole composed of several materials is called composite sole for short. The sole can be divided into heel and heel palm surface, basement membrane, edge strip and forefoot surface. According to the different functional requirements of different parts, the advantages of the above materials can be combined. Generally, the cost of composite soles is higher than that of the first four types of soles.
Three. Internal:
The part used to make shoes is called lining. Lining can generally be divided into two categories, genuine leather and artificial leather lining.
3. 1. Leather lining: pigskin, sheepskin and cowhide.
3. 1. 1 pigskin:
It can be divided into the first and second layers. According to different surface treatments, it can also be divided into water-dyed pigskin and coated pigskin. Water-dyed pigskin has good air permeability and sweat absorption, but it is easy to fade, that is, * * *. Coated (painted) pigskin generally does not fade, but its air permeability and sweat absorption are poor. The strength of the second pigskin is much lower than that of the first pigskin.
3. 1.2 sheepskin:
It is generally used to make the lining of high-grade shoes, which is not easy to fade, breathable and sweat-absorbent, and the price is generally three to four times that of the first layer of pigskin.
3. 1.3 cowhide:
Generally used as the lining of high-grade shoes, breathable and sweat-absorbent, and the price is higher.
2, artificial leather inside:
PU, PVC skin and other composite leather materials, artificial leather lining cost is generally low, but some prices are higher than pig skin. The air permeability and sweat absorption of PU and PVC leather without special process treatment are very poor, but some PU leather is improved after special process treatment. This kind of leather is commonly known as breathable leather. But leather generally does not fade. TPR, PVC and PU are three common materials for soles.
Among the three, PU is the lightest and most wear-resistant. Of course, the price is the most expensive. The sole made of PU is easy to recognize, and it is light in the hand. The hole on the back of the sole is round.
Many people can't tell the difference between PVC and TPR soles. In fact, both materials are easy to recognize. The soles made of PVC feel heavier than those made of TPR. The soles made of TPR are more elastic than those made of PVC. The easiest way is to firmly grasp the sole and fall naturally. If they can rebound, they are TPR soles. The soles made of PVC are cheaper than those made of TPR, but the quality is not good, especially in winter, which is easy to break.
Identifying rubber soles is actually very simple. One of the characteristics of RB sole is that there is no injection hole, so you can smell it with your nose. If you leave them for a long time, they will grow white things ~
TR's sole surface is very bright. It is harder than the general TPR sole. TR has more injection holes than TPR. The injection hole is special.
In fact, it is not difficult to identify these materials. Contact more, look at the soles and you will know what they are made of ~
EVA|PVC is a kind of sole material, and EVA is a kind of high foaming elastomer, which is mainly used in sports shoes, slippers and casual shoes and belongs to high-grade goods. PVC has a similar use, but it is relatively heavy and has poor comfort, so it is a low-end product.
However, it is undeniable that the elasticity of PVC is better than EVA, and the safety and environmental protection problems of PVC have always existed, so it is rarely used now, especially in large manufacturers. EVA is often used in sports shoes, especially BB and running.
The traditional EVA adopts in-mold foaming, which has good stability and is more beautiful when used on the vamp inserted outside.
EVA is ejected by injection mold, which is easy to deform and easy to operate, but the cost is lower (but the cost of the mold is higher).
Some time ago, I saw someone mention the characteristic analysis of PVC and PU substrates.
I'd like to make a few different points. If there is anything wrong, I hope you can give me more advice.
TPR has certain elasticity and is suitable for making high-quality shoes. The surface of the sole is rough and the cost is high. The bottom is very heavy and can be used to distinguish TPR from rubber. Rubber has a bad smell, so it is difficult to distinguish TPR from rubber sole when it is done.
PVC is less elastic, harder and has some bad smells, so its cost is lower. There are water ripples (PVC is divided into foamed PVC, non-foamed PVC and semi-foamed PVC. The water ripple at the bottom of foamed PVC is very obvious and the cost is very low. Made of waste recycling products such as winding materials and plastics, low-grade shoes for South American guests. Non-foamed PVC is more expensive and has a smoother surface. )
PU has good elasticity, softness, wear resistance and folding resistance. The larger the pattern angle, the more obvious the bubble gap. The smaller the angle, the less obvious the pores are. The nail stone does little harm to the sole. Not suitable for making high-quality shoes. The platform is light. Material: PVC, rubber (high elasticity, wear resistance) TPR EVA PU PE tendon bottom.
Classification and basic knowledge of shoes
Leather shoes: classified according to different production processes: sewing shoes, glued shoes, molded shoes, injection shoes, vulcanized shoes ... Sewing craft shoes are mostly used for high-grade men's shoes and labor protection leather shoes, including organic sewing and manual sewing. It is characterized by high material selection requirements, complex technology, solid structure and durability. Injection molding shoes, also called injection molding process, are basically the same as the molding process. This technology has high production efficiency and low cost, and the plastic sole is oil-resistant and insulated. This process is suitable for producing civil shoes, travel shoes and labor protection shoes. Vulcanized craft shoes, the combination of vamp and midsole, is similar to the formation of sleeve vamp. The sole is not limited by the mold cavity, but the film bottom is cut from the bottom template and bonded to the vamp through high-temperature vulcanization. This is the simplest process, with the highest production efficiency, moisture resistance and slight insulation. Suitable for ordinary daily wear, especially for farmers. The disadvantage is that the formability and moisture permeability of the product are slightly poor.
About sole materials
First, the sole material:
The structure of the sole is quite complicated. In a broad sense, it can include all materials that make up the sole, such as outsole, midsole, heel, etc. In a narrow sense, it only refers to the outsole. The characteristics of general sole materials should be wear-resistant, waterproof, oil-resistant, heat-resistant, pressure-resistant, impact-resistant, elastic, easy to adapt to the foot shape, difficult to deform after molding, heat preservation, easy to absorb moisture and so on. At the same time, it should cooperate with the midsole so that you can brake when you change your feet when you walk, so as not to slip and stop easily. There are many kinds of sole materials, including natural soles and synthetic soles. Natural substrates include natural leather, bamboo, wood and so on. Synthetic substrates include rubber, plastics, rubber-plastic materials, recycled leather, elastic cardboard, etc.
(1) natural sole leather
Natural sole leather is a special leather for making soles and insoles of shoes and boots.
According to the different raw materials used, it can be divided into cowhide leather, buffalo hide leather and pigskin leather. According to different uses, it can be divided into outsole leather, insole leather, main heel leather and inner toe leather. According to different tanning methods, it can be divided into chrome tanning, vegetable tanning, combined tanning and so on. According to its different levels and parts, it can be divided into cowhide heart leather, cow head leather, cow side leather and cow shoulder leather.
Characteristics of natural bottom leather: Due to different tanning methods, the properties of natural bottom leather are also different, each with its own characteristics.
① Vegetable tanned bottom leather is characterized by thick leather body, high sole hardness, strong nail grip, low water absorption and strong plasticity. However, the cushioning resistance of vegetable tanned leather is poor.
② Chrome tanned leather has the characteristics of good wear resistance, high water absorption, high strength and good heat resistance.
③ The characteristics of combined tanned soles are: the surface properties are basically the same as those of vegetable tanned sole leather, but the heat resistance and wear resistance are improved.
(2) Synthesis of basic materials
1, rubber substrate
Raw rubber can be divided into two categories: natural rubber and synthetic rubber.
Natural rubber: raw rubber material made by cutting the rubber trunk, collecting the discharged mucilage, removing impurities, curing, smoking and drying. Natural rubber comes from tropical and subtropical rubber trees.
Synthetic rubber: by-product of petrochemical production, raw rubber materials with different physical properties are synthesized according to different needs. Commonly used such as: SBR, NBR, EPDM, BR, IIR, CR, Q, FKM, etc. However, due to different synthesis methods, several different kinds of raw rubber can be separated from the same rubber compound, and any type of rubber compound can be turned into thousands of raw rubber to meet the needs of products through the setting of formula.
Rubber soles for shoemaking have the characteristics of wear resistance, high elasticity, water resistance and acid and alkali resistance.
Answer: classified by composition: natural rubber and synthetic rubber.
1), natural rubber: the advantage of natural rubber is that it is very soft and has excellent elasticity, which can adapt to various sports, but the disadvantage is also obvious, that is, it is not wear-resistant. Indoor sports shoes mostly use natural rubber.
2) Synthetic rubber: it is divided into wear rubber, environmental protection rubber, air rubber, viscous rubber, hard rubber and carbon rubber.
① wear rubber: wear rubber has excellent wear resistance and toughness and is very durable. This rubber material is generally used on the outsole of tennis shoes.
② Environmentally friendly rubber: also called reclaimed rubber. This rubber outsole contains at most 10% reclaimed rubber, mainly for environmental protection.
③ Air rubber: rubber contains air, which has a certain damping effect, but it is not very wear-resistant and not widely used.
4 Velcro tape: Velcro tape is characterized by good flexibility and very non-slip, and is generally used for indoor sports shoes.
⑤ Hard rubber: Hard rubber is the most comprehensive rubber in outsole rubber materials, which is tough, anti-slip and wear-resistant, and has a wide range of natural uses.
⑥ Carbonized rubber: Carbon element is added to ordinary rubber materials to make rubber more tough and wear-resistant.
B: According to the finished products, it is divided into: rubber sheet, strip, rubber compound, molding base, etc.
① Rubber sheet: Rubber sheet refers to the rubber material processed into the bottom with a certain thickness. For example, the outsole, midsole and heel sleeve used in women's heel-pressing shoes and roll-up shoes.
② Strips: Strips are rubber materials processed into certain specifications and shapes. Such as outer rubber strip, edge strip for sewing shoes, etc.
③ Rubber base material: Rubber base material is an unstable rubber compound in raw rubber state. When making the outsole, molding and other processes are adopted to achieve the standard of combining the upper with the bottom.
(4) Molding bottom: Molding degree is the vulcanized rubber matrix pressed by a mold after rubber mixing. Such as full soles, heel soles and rubber forefoot.
2. Rubber and thermoplastic elastomer
Rubber dual-purpose and thermoplastic elastomer are new materials made of rubber and plastic by physical mixing or chemical methods. They overcome some shortcomings of the two materials and are ideal synthetic materials for shoes at present. They are light, waterproof, corrosion-resistant and wear-resistant, and are widely used in shoemaking processes, such as imitation leather shoes soles and EVA rubber soles.
Rubber and plastics are the general names of rubber and plastics industries, both of which are subsidiary products of petroleum. The source is the same, but in the process of making products, the physical properties are different and the uses are different. Rubber is widely used in tires, and plastics are more and more widely used with the demand of technology and market, which has been inseparable in daily life.
Simply put, the most essential difference between plastic and rubber is that plastic deformation occurs when plastic is deformed, while rubber is elastically deformed. In other words, plastic is not easy to recover after deformation, while rubber is much easier. The elasticity of plastic is very small, usually less than 100%, while rubber can reach more than 1000%. The vast majority of plastics are completed in the molding process and also in the product process; After the rubber molding process is completed, vulcanization process is needed.
Plastics and rubber are both polymer materials, mainly composed of carbon and hydrogen, and some also contain a small amount of atoms such as oxygen, nitrogen, chlorine, silicon, fluorine and sulfur, which have special properties and special uses. At room temperature, plastics are solid and hard, and cannot be stretched and deformed. Rubber, on the other hand, has low hardness and elasticity, can be stretched and stretched, and can be restored to its original state after stopping stretching. This is due to their different molecular structures. Another difference is that plastic can be recycled many times, while rubber cannot be recycled directly. It can only be used when it is processed into reclaimed rubber. The shape of plastic at 100 to 200 degrees is similar to that of rubber at 60 to 100 degrees.
Broadly speaking, rubber (synthetic rubber) is actually a kind of plastic, and plastics include rubber (synthetic rubber).
Thermoplastic elastomer (TPE) is a new polymer material between rubber and resin, which has the functions and properties of traditional heat recovery rubber (soft, elastic and good touch), and has the dual advantages of simple, fast and recyclable processing of general thermoplastics. TPE is a kind of thermoplastic with rubberizing function and performance, so some people call it thermoplastic rubber, abbreviated as TPR. It has the characteristics of environmental protection, non-toxicity, safety, wide hardness range, excellent coloring and soft touch. Excellent weather resistance, fatigue resistance, temperature resistance and processability, without vulcanization, can be recycled and reduced in cost. It can be coated and bonded with matrix materials such as PP, PE, PC, PS and ABS by secondary injection molding. Or molded separately.
Thermoplastic elastomer (TPE) can be classified into two types: general TPE and engineering TPE. Thermoplastic elastomers that have been industrially produced in the world include styrene (SBS, SIS, SEBS, SEPS), olefins (TPO, TPV), dienes (TPB, TPI), vinyl chloride (TPVC, TCPE) and urethane (TPU).
Styrene TPE, also known as TPS, is a block copolymer of butadiene or isoprene and styrene, and its performance is closest to SBR rubber. Accounting for about half of all thermoplastic elastomers. The representative variety is styrene-butadiene-styrene block copolymer (SBS), which is widely used in footwear industry and has largely replaced rubber. At the same time, its application in industrial rubber products such as adhesive tape and rubber sheet is also expanding. SBS is also widely used as an impact modifier for PS plastics, and it is also an excellent modifier for wear resistance, crack resistance, softness resistance and skid resistance of asphalt pavement.
Advantages of thermoplastic elastomer:
(1) can be processed by general thermoplastic molding machine, such as injection molding, extrusion molding, blow molding, compression molding, step-by-step molding, etc. It can be vulcanized by rubber injection molding machine, and the time can be shortened from about 20min minutes to less than 1 minute; It can be vulcanized by extruder, with fast extrusion speed and short vulcanization time.
(2) Wastes (flash evaporation, rubber extrusion) and final wastes generated in the production process can be directly returned for reuse; Used TPE products can be reused after simple regeneration, which reduces environmental pollution and expands the source of resource regeneration;
(3) no vulcanization is needed, and energy is saved; Good self-reinforcement, greatly simplified formula, greatly reduced the influence of compounding agent on polymer, and easier to master quality and performance.
Disadvantages of thermoplastic elastomers:
The heat resistance of TPE is not as good as that of rubber. With the increase of temperature, the physical properties are greatly reduced, and the application scope is limited. At the same time, equivalent rubber has poor compression deformation, resilience and durability, and its price is often higher than that of similar rubber. But in general, the advantages of TPE are still outstanding, and the disadvantages are constantly improving. As a new energy-saving and environment-friendly rubber raw material, its development prospect is very promising.
3. Plastic
Take synthetic or natural polymers and compound as basic components, and molding in that processing proces; It has the characteristics of oil resistance, corrosion resistance, insulation and low price. It is mostly used as the material of outsole, heel, half insole and inner bag head.
There are single-component and multi-component plastics. One-component plastics only contain synthetic resin, which is indispensable in plastics. Besides synthetic resin, most plastics also contain additives such as fillers, hardeners and colorants, which is multi-component plastics.
Synthetic resins are almost always used in plastics. Resin is the most important component in plastics, which plays the role of adhesive and can bond other components of plastics into a whole. Although adding various additives can change the properties of plastics, resin is the fundamental factor that determines the types, properties and uses of plastics.
Commonly used resin types are:
Polyethylene (PE), polyvinyl chloride (PVC), polystyrene (PS), phenolic aldehyde (PF), urea-formaldehyde (UF), epoxy resin (EP), polyester (PR), polyurethane (PU), polymethylmethacrylate (PUMA), silicone (SI) and so on.
Synthetic resins can be divided into thermoplastic resins and thermosetting resins according to the different changes when heated.
Thermoplastic resin: it has the properties of softening by heating and hardening by cooling, and does not react chemically. No matter how many times heating and cooling are repeated, this characteristic can be maintained. Thermoplastic resins include: polyethylene, polyvinyl chloride, polystyrene, polyamide, polyoxymethylene, polycarbonate, polyphenylene ether, polysulfone, rubber, etc. The advantages of thermoplastic resin are simple processing and high mechanical energy. Disadvantages are poor heat resistance and rigidity.
Thermosetting resin: the resin undergoes chemical changes after heating, gradually hardens and forms, and does not soften and dissolve when heated again. Thermosetting resin has the advantages of high heat resistance and is not easy to deform under pressure. Its disadvantage is poor mechanical properties. Thermosetting resins include phenolic resin, epoxy resin, amino resin, unsaturated polyester resin and silicone ether resin.
Advantages of plastics: good processing characteristics and simple processing technology; Light weight: similar to wood; High specific strength: it belongs to light and high strength materials; Low thermal conductivity: it is an ideal thermal insulation material; Good chemical stability: good corrosion resistance to common acids, alkalis, salts and oils; Good electrical insulation: generally, it is a poor conductor of electricity; Good performance design: by changing the formula and processing technology, various engineering materials with special properties can be made; Decorative: it can be made into transparent products, products with various colors, beautiful and durable colors, and products with various patterns, patterns, three-dimensional surfaces and metallic feelings can also be made by advanced printing, embossing, electroplating and bronzing technologies.
Disadvantages of plastics: easy to age-under the action of sunlight, air, heat and environmental media such as acid, alkali and salt. The molecular structure of the product changes gradually, the plasticizer and other components volatilize, and the chemical bond breaks, resulting in poor mechanical properties and even hard and brittle failure. Flammable-not only flammable, but also produces a lot of smoke and even toxic gases when burning. Poor heat resistance: generally there are problems of thermal deformation or even decomposition. Low stiffness: it is a viscoelastic material with low elastic modulus.
4. Elastic cardboard
Elastic cardboard is made of cotton pulp or kraft pulp through beating, papermaking, desalination, lamination, aging, drying and finishing. Elastic cardboard is characterized by its firmness, hard texture, smoothness, good elasticity and good formability. In general, its thickness is 1~3 mm, which can be used not only for insoles of injection-molded shoes, but also for semi-insoles of women's high heels and hooks of molded shoes.
5. Recycled leather
Regenerated leather is made by mixing the remaining materials of shoemaking with other fiber materials, then grinding, sizing and tabletting. Its characteristics are good processability and high temperature resistance. Mostly used for insoles and midsole fabrics.
6. Rubber outsole
This kind of outsole is not common. The raw material of this outsole is industrial glue, which is stirred with a blender and then heated in a mold. It is characterized by being soft and very non-slip.
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