What's the difference between dress customs in Ming and Qing Dynasties? Explain it in detail!

In the Ming Dynasty, the traditional costumes of the Han nationality dominated.

but

Manchu costumes dominated the Qing Dynasty. Because Han people have to wear their own clothes, there are also three butchers in Jiading.

Han (ha)

A complete set of clothing parts includes: first clothes, body clothes, foot clothes and accessories.

First, the first service

The first service, also known as meta-service. Primitive finger The Yellow Emperor invented the crown when he dominated the world, and the "Emei Crown Belt" has since become synonymous with Hanfu. The coming-of-age ceremony of the Han nationality-the ceremony of male crown and female-shows the important position of the first costume in the national cultural psychology, which can be described as: hold your head high and start from scratch. As a country with clothes, I have always been very particular about clothes and clothes. Crown scarf corresponds to status. After twenty years of weakness, the scholar wore a crown and a Shu Ren towel. Dress neatly is a complete appearance, which was valued by the ancients.

However, scarf culture is almost a man's privilege. For thousands of years, men are superior to women, and women, in addition to married women's crests and Zhai crowns, are female Taoist priests wearing crowns, called female crowns. Many years later, in an era when history has abandoned gender restrictions, we began to revive Hanfu, but there is no need to be upset about it. On the contrary, we should be delighted to see that the first dress culture also makes up for the monotonous style of men's Hanfu.

Men's first clothes can be roughly divided into crowns and towel hats.

The most popular period of crowns is the pre-Qin and Han dynasties, and the popularity of towels is earlier. The crown has always been a privilege above the scholars, a symbol of identity and status, and a symbol of the dignity of the scholars. Being crowned without being crowned is "indecent". "Zuo Zhuan's fifteen years of mourning for the public" records that Luz, a disciple of Confucius, defended the dignity of a gentleman until his death: "Hit it with a dagger and break its tassel. Lutz said, "When a gentleman dies, there must be a crown." Die with tassels. "Ordinary people or" humble deacons "can't wear crowns, but only have a towel; At first, the towel was just a piece of cloth wrapped casually and could not appear on formal occasions. At first, the literati in the upper class only wore a towel occasionally when they lived in a strict residence, but it gradually became common. By the end of the Han dynasty, it was favored by literati warriors, and shawls were elegant. Because of the close relationship between towel and civilians, it is born with a little leisure and always develops in a relaxed atmosphere. As Shantou in Tang Dynasty was derived from towels, the towel hat culture became more and more prosperous and reached its peak in Song and Ming Dynasties. Therefore, in Japan, which came to study in the Han and Tang Dynasties, the scarf and hat culture rarely spread. On the contrary, in North Korea, which studied in China in the Ming Dynasty, towel hats became popular and developed into an important element in modern hanbok.

Crown is generally suitable for formal and solemn occasions, with corresponding dresses or uniforms. Crown plays a role in distinguishing official ranks, and its name often comes from its implication. For example, the crown of law is also called the title of arrogance. The combination of towel hat and uniform (of course, we can't rule out the combination of hoe and uniform, and Jiupin official uniform is often used as Shu Ren's wedding dress), which is closely related to fashion. Often a towel and a hat will contain an anecdote, such as Dongpo towel and Chengzi towel, which are talked about by the public but followed suit.

In terms of wearing methods, the crown is different from later towels and hats, and it attaches importance to fixing hair. Generally, it needs to be fixed directly on the bun through knots, and it also needs to be tied at the chin, which is very firm and not easy to spread. The rules for wearing towels and hats are much more casual. A piece of soft or hard cloth or yarn is tied to the head by various ways of dressing or folding.

Second, the clothes on your body.

"Interpretation of Name and Clothing" says: "Where is the clothing, where is the clothing; Clothes, it is also reported that people rely on pyrene to keep out the cold and keep warm. Quotient; The dress is also an obstacle, so it is self-enclosed. "

According to the way of cutting, it can be roughly divided into three categories:

Top-down system (clothes)

Upper and lower dress system (thick clothes)

Upper and lower cutting system (cutting type)

(a) Under the outerwear type system:

The top-down clothing system is the earliest clothing system of the Chinese nation. In order to show respect for tradition, the highest level of dress in later generations has always been the dress system; The men's clothing system of later generations gradually developed into a whole because of the internal reasons of convenient movement, and women who did not need much activity largely retained the ancient clothing system-I wonder if this thinking makes sense.

(2) Up and down dressing system:

The clothing system of upper and lower dresses is also called "deep clothing system". In order to abide by the clothing system of separating up and down, it is specially cut separately and then connected into one. The name of deep clothes is defined as: "Deep clothes are connected with clothes, and the quilt is deep, so it is called deep clothes." Deep clothes originated in the pre-Qin period. Although it is a long skirt, the ancestors of China cut the upper and lower skirts separately and sewed them together to show their respect for the traditional concept of statutes.

There are many records about the system of deep clothes in YuZao and Book of Rites, such as "keeping rules, keeping rules, keeping ropes, keeping rights and keeping balance", which emphasize "ceremony", but the shape and scale are not clear. The customization of deep clothes in the Book of Rites: "The ancients had deep clothes, which were made by cover and called by rules ..."

According to the style of skirt, clothes made of deep clothes can be divided into straight lines and curves, and some can be divided into single and complex thicknesses with seasonal changes, such as clothes, folds, complex robes, etc. According to the adaptation of lifestyle, styles have also changed, such as sunglasses, knitted coats and derivative drags;

Deep clothes have been in the history of dressing for 3 thousand years, until the clothes were cut off. Deep clothes are first dresses, especially women's clothes. Han Shu Hou Han Shu: "The Empress Dowager, the Empress Dowager entered the temple, put soap on her clothes, and the silkworms turned blue and white, all of which were made into deep clothes." Shenfu inherits the ancient meaning of China's clothing system, and at the same time, it is convenient, beautiful and versatile, just like today. It can be a uniform or a dress, and the formality of a dress is second only to clothes. From the emperor to Shu Ren, men and women, whether civilian or military, can wear it. Clothing bears certain historical significance and cultural connotation. Therefore, some pioneers of Hanfu suggested that it is a good word to revive Hanfu and pay attention to deep clothes.

(3) Up and down cutting system:

Because of the inconvenience in frequent social activities, the style of Hanfu men has developed from clothes to deep clothes, but it is still troublesome to cut and splice separately, so it has developed into a gown cut up and down. In the Eastern Han Dynasty, there began to be long coats, called "long coats". As a new thing, there was no custom length at that time.

It was the bold and open new style in Sui and Tang Dynasties that opened the fashion of "Three Standards of Hanfu". In the Song and Ming Dynasties, robes, raccoons and so on. Cut from top to bottom, once very popular.

Third, adequate clothing.

The whole suit is also socks and shoes. Barefoot is also a rude behavior, and it is often "bald" when apologizing.

(1) shoes.

There is a saying in "Interpretation of the Name": "It is also polite to do things, and it is also polite to make up your feet." Shuowen said, "Shoes are enough."

There are many different names for shoes. Apart from the reason why geographical people are used to calling them that way, the difference of shoe system is the main one.

"Zi Shu" said: "Grass is the leaf, hemp is the foot (j ǔ), and leather is the shoe, which is also the minister of the Yellow Emperor." "Li" says: "Gegen is used in summer and in winter." "Poetry Feng Wei Ge Wei" says: "Disputes can be frosted." Dialect also said: "The author of silk is shoes, and the author of hemp is doors."

From this perspective, the materials of ancient shoes are hemp, leather and silk, hemp, kudzu vine and leather, grass and hemp. Generally speaking, shoes are fine in workmanship, but shoes and doors are thick.

Footwear can also be divided into single sole and compound sole.

A shoe with only one sole is called a shoe. There are "Xisi" and "Dong" shoes. I am a man with a wooden sole. The wooden sole is the same size as the sole and is solid. Bricks are made of wood or silk, some of which are painted and have two wooden teeth on the bottom. History of the Five Elements: "In Yan Xi, all the elders in Beijing wear clogs. When a woman marries for the first time, draw a brick and use five colors as silk. "

According to Sue Ji Shen, men's shoes have square heads and women's shoes have round heads. But later, men and women are often common. Judging from the women's shoes in the silk painting of Mawangdui No.1 Han Tomb and four pairs of blue silk shoes unearthed, there are two small sharp corners in front of the women's shoes.

(2) 7.

There are also socks, cloth and leather. Socks are generally more than a foot high, and there are two straps tied to the calf at the upper end.

During the Qin and Han dynasties, there was a habit of taking off your shoes when you entered the door. In the house, wear socks and step on the table, not only in Yanju at ordinary times, but also in the temple. I think it is a great honor to wear shoes to the temple. Only Xiao He, Liang Ji and Cao Cao were commended by this special ceremony in the Han Dynasty.

Fourth, ornaments

Jewelry exists in people's lives with its aesthetic and practical functions, but once it enters a well-defined civilized society, it becomes its most important function. "Wearing clothes, writing articles, carving and carving are all equal." Such as dysprosium, emperors will use elephant bones, and literati will use spines. Another example is turning a deaf ear. The emperor used jade to fry and the princes used stones. Today, you don't have to stick to these.

In ancient times, common accessories were jade, pearls, knives and shovels. However, because clothing is divided into men and women, there are obvious gender differences in accessories.

(a) women's accessories:

Head: Fu, hairpin, hairpin, step, comb, flower bud, victory, jade plum/snow willow, moth, corolla/rockhopper, bun.

Earrings: hair clips, earrings, earrings, earrings.

Necklaces: string ornaments, necklaces, collars, tassels, necklaces, necklaces and dresses.

Armor: bracelets, spears, rings, armor.

Accessories:

Makeup: It can be roughly divided into "red makeup" and "white makeup". In addition, there are some specific makeup, such as flower yellow, flower bud and so on.

(2) Men's accessories

Physiologically, men usually like some offensive and dangerous decorations. For example, let the knife, let the hammer, let the sword; Headband (jade belt), hook, hook belt and ribbon (large ribbon, front ribbon and back ribbon) are unique decorations for men's wear; In addition, it also includes some neutral ornaments, such as plug ear, incense, Yu Pei and so on.

Classification of occasions for wearing Hanfu

The revival of Hanfu is not to blindly replace the past and present with the ancient clothing system, but to have a civilized symbol with historical accumulation on a specific occasion. Therefore, with the change of dressing occasions, the modern classification of Hanfu can also be adjusted on the basis of reference to history.

China is a civilization of rites and music, and modern people have alienated their understanding of "rites". In fact, the ceremony is not superfluous, but closely related to life. The ceremony is divided into five categories: fierce ceremony, martial ceremony, and. Together, it is called "Five Rites".

Ji Li is a ceremony, "the great event of a country lies in respecting peace and honor", so the ceremony will be at the top of the five ceremonies; The intense ceremony is a funeral ceremony. Mourning for the dead, mourning for natural and man-made disasters, all belong to this; Military salute is a war ceremony related to military activities, including hunting, reviewing, offering prisoners and establishing a career. The guest ceremony is the courtship of the princes to the dynasty, the invitation between the princes and the ceremony of joining the alliance; Gifts are holiday gifts that are friendly to everyone, including coronation, marriage, banquets with relatives and friends, etc.

"Five Rites" covers almost every aspect of life. Therefore, with all kinds of etiquette, the crown service system of various occasions has been developed. Sacrifices include sacrificial clothes, court clothes, wedding dresses, military uniforms and mourning clothes. Don't make mistakes when you wear it.

Ancient times: sacrificial clothes, court clothes, official clothes, wedding clothes, filial piety clothes, military uniforms, Confucianism, Buddhism and Taoism clothes.

Hanfu's formal dress

Ancient times: sacrificial clothes, court clothes, official clothes, wedding clothes, filial piety clothes, military uniforms, Confucianism, Buddhism and Taoism clothes.

China has been a country of dress etiquette since ancient times, and China has long listed "clothing can cover the body" as the foundation of people. "Customs and Justice" said: "Clothes are hidden; Skirts, obstacles also; So is the invisible self-isolation. Towels, so ornaments; Clothes, so it is covered. " "White Tiger Tongyi" says: "Why do saints make clothes? I think it is to hide people's eyes and ears, show virtue and persuade goodness, not condescending. "

Therefore, we can see that in China culture, clothing has a series of common practical functions of human beings, such as "avoiding cold and heat, resisting wind and rain, covering the body, concealing shame and beautifying the face", and also has special significance such as "knowing etiquette, being humble and correcting the name". "Zhou Li local official Da Situ" said: "Clothes are different, calm and regular, so as to make the people neat", and that the fashion of "wearing the same clothes" can stabilize the people's hearts; In the tradition of China, which emphasizes "rightness", the first thing the emperor did after winning the world was to "correct the new moon and change its color"; When Manchu entered Han Dynasty, it also started with clothes. The cutting of clothes completely disintegrated the last insistence of the Han people who couldn't cut off the butcher knife. ...

Dressing in China is never a trivial matter.

Looking back, we can see that, unlike a documentary about Kuqa in Xinjiang, some local Uighurs saw the ancient ancestors of Qiuci on the murals of the Thousand Buddha Cave in Qizil and said blankly: They are pagans (because they believe in Buddhism), which has nothing to do with us-but they did lose a lot of memories; Today is an era in urgent need of characteristics. When China stands on the top of the world again after suffering, it also knows that it needs its own "national characteristics" to show to the world. As a result, we hastily searched through the broken memories and brought with us many elements that cater to the strong western cultural thinking-therefore, cheongsam and "Tang suit" are proudly regarded as unique symbols of national culture ... but few people think about why these symbols, which are only 300 years old at most and have serious variations, can drown out the origin and accumulation of thousands of years.

When will China be more than just a pale name? How long will it take before we can understand what a profound and beautiful name our ancestors gave us.

The clothes have been worn for six years, and now they have ignited a spark. It is incumbent on the times to revitalize China and dress first. However, I dare not define it for fear of destroying the heavy mission and dress system of 5 thousand years. However, it is really shameful to watch many netizens, especially those who are just getting started, complain that they don't have complete study materials. So, we nervously turned over the pile of old paper and sorted it out. Although we have made great efforts, the disadvantages of our opinions are inevitable. Therefore, we will thank you for your timely advice and integrate wisdom and resources in communication. ...

The basic characteristics of Hanfu are: horizontal collar and right collar (including vertical collar and straight collar), large sleeves (including narrow sleeves) to praise clothes, tassels without buttons (almost without buttons, tassels under the armpits), smooth lines, elegant and chic (these two points are the remarkable characteristics that are different from Japanese and Korean costumes, which are all China cultural systems).

This classification of Hanfu knowledge system: because it was based on an integrated and inductive way of thinking from the beginning, it did not adopt the "dynasty-style" classification popular in the clothing industry at present; At the same time, it also draws lessons from the analysis method of evolution in life science, and tries to look at the problem with the evolutionary view of history.

Manchu women wear flag shoes, cheongsam and a flag head; Manchu men usually wear robes, but they are often covered with a vest.

Manchu women's flag shoes are called "inch shoes" or "horseshoe shoes". In the middle of the sole, that is, the center of the foot, there are more than 3 inches of boards embedded, and the boards are wrapped with fine white cloth. Where the wood can't follow the ground, it is often decorated with embroidery or beads. Because the sole plane is horseshoe-shaped, it is named; There is also a kind of shoes whose bottom is flowerpot-shaped, which is called "flowerpot bottom shoes"; Flag shoes worn by elderly women and working women, with flat wood as the bottom, are called flat embroidered shoes, also known as "net cloud shoes". Manchu women's shoes are embroidered on the surface, socks are mostly made of cloth, and soles have patterns.

Women's cheongsam is basically the same as men's, but with more decoration. Women's cheongsam is not only a vertical long-sleeved robe, but also has embroidery patterns on the hem and calf. Manchu women often embed several patterns or colored teeth on skirts, necklines and sleeves, commonly known as "painting roads" or "dog teeth". According to seasonal changes, it can also be divided into single, clip, cotton and leather.

With the development of society, men's cheongsam is gradually abandoned, while women's cheongsam is also evolving, from wide waist straight tube to tight curve and streamline, becoming a kind of women's dress representing the Chinese nation.

The hairstyle of Manchu people inherited the custom of Nuzhen in Jin Dynasty. Men's hair style is "half shaved and half left".

This has a certain inheritance relationship with the Manchu ancestors' "braiding shoulders and leaving hair behind". The custom of Manchu women "braiding their hair in a bun" also comes from the heritage of Jurchen. "Two locks" is the most representative hairstyle of Manchu women, that is, the hair is sandwiched on the top of the head and divided into two locks, forming a horizontal long bun, mainly high bun. Then roll the rest of the back into a "dovetail-shaped" long bun and press it on the back collar to straighten the neck. In addition, wearing high-grade flag shoes makes you walk very dignified and elegant.

Since the middle of Qing Dynasty, Manchu aristocratic women have been wearing "big wings" (flag heads). It developed from the "two-headed" hairstyle.

Is it detailed enough?