What is the name of the traditional skirt in the Tang Dynasty?

From the Sui Dynasty to the Tang Dynasty, ancient Chinese costumes reached their peak. Political stability, economic development, progress in production and textile technology, and frequent foreign exchanges have promoted the unprecedented prosperity of clothing, clothing styles, colors, patterns and so on. It presents an unprecedented new situation. The women's clothing in this period is the most wonderful chapter in China's clothing, with rich and gorgeous crowns and strange and varied decorations, which are dizzying. The image of women's clothing in the Tang Dynasty for more than 200 years can be mainly divided into three kinds of clothing: skirt clothing, men's clothing and Hu clothing.

By the Tang dynasty, the country was unified, the economy was prosperous, the shape was more open, and the costumes were more and more gorgeous. The characteristic of women's dress in Tang Dynasty is the unity of skirt, blouse and blouse. Compared with other dynasties, women's clothing in Tang Dynasty has strong self-confidence and fashion consciousness, and pursues elegance and splendor.

1, Yan skirt-basic summary

Skirt dress is a very basic style of Han women's dress, that is, women wear short skirts and long skirts (commonly known as tops and skirts). Under the influence of the prosperous times, Tang Nv's Yan costume has been fully developed, with half arm and silk, so Yan costume has become the most exciting supporting costume in the Tang Dynasty and even in the whole history of China costume. Skirt (collar version) (1) Skirt:

That is, the coat usually only grows to the waist, which is very short, and the waist is usually tied under the skirt line. You can add a set of "half arm", "vest" or even a longer "raccoon" outside.

Tang Nv's coat, such as clothes and clothes, is the uniform of all classes. Yuan Zhen's poem "Lotus Silk Shirt and Lotus Silk Skirt", Zhang You's poem "Where to Take Yuanyang Embroidery, Who Will Pay for Peacock Sweater", and Ouyang Jiong's poem "Tea Girl Leads Her". Judging from these poems, it is very common for women in the Tang Dynasty to wear clothes and shirts, and they like red, light red or light ochre, light green and other colors, and the appearance is even more beautiful with the gold and silver embroidery of "Luoshan embroidered leaves and Jinfeng embroidered geese".

The neckline is divided into "cross collar" and "double lapel". The neckline of the cross lapel is Y-shaped, with the right lapel inside, the left lapel outside and the left lapel tightened at the right waist. On the other hand, double-breasted clothes are symmetrical left and right, tucked in the middle of the waist, and collar underwear or terminalia chebula (that is, tube top) is exposed in the middle gap. The half-arm neckline and lapel of the coat are mostly double-breasted

The cuffs of shovel are divided into "narrow sleeves" and "wide sleeves". Most of the lower-class women in the folk have narrow sleeves, which is no different from modern times; The upper class aristocrats have convenient narrow sleeves and gorgeous and elegant wide sleeves.

(2) skirt:

Women wear skirts. Skirt fabrics are mostly silk fabrics, but there are many differences in materials, usually one more piece is better. The material, color and style of skirts in the Tang Dynasty are much higher than the previous generation, which can be described as gorgeous and colorful. For example, there are many skirt styles involved in Tang poetry, such as "Fairy first wears a blue skirt", "Lotus leaf skirt with the same color", "Two-person hidden flower skirt", "Bamboo leaf skirt", "Blue gauze skirt" and "New neon moonlit skirt". The skirts in the Tang Dynasty are colorful and can be compared with people, mostly crimson, apricot, crimson, moon green and turquoise. Among them, pomegranate color has the longest popularity. Li Baiyou "deceives willow leaves with eyebrows and envies pomegranate flowers with skirts." Wan Chu has "Mei Dai wins the color of day lily, and the red skirt envies pomegranate flowers." Its popularity can be seen from the "Yanjing May Song", "Pomegranate flowers are burned all over the street, and the branches are all falling, and thousands of households can't buy them, leaving their daughters in red skirts." The biggest feature of pomegranate skirt is that the skirt is high and the coat is short, and the width and length of the two are in sharp contrast. "Luoshan leaves are heavily embroidered, and Jinfeng Yinyan has its own traces." Mei Dai wins the color of day lily, and the red skirt envies pomegranate flowers. The skirts in the Tang Dynasty are colorful, with red, purple, yellow and green competing for each other, especially the red skirt. The popularity of red skirts in the streets is not the patent of modern people. As early as the prosperous Tang Dynasty, dance skirts were dyed red by pomegranate flowers everywhere.

Perhaps influenced by the theory of Yin-Yang and Five Elements, Yang Guifei likes the yellow skirt best, which is a symbol of status.

The style of this coat and skirt is the inheritance, development and perfection of the previous generation of clothing. From the overall effect, the coat is short, the skirt is long, and it looks slim and slender.

2, accessories-half arm, raccoon, etc.

Double-breasted half arm (1) half arm:

Also known as semi-sleeve, it is a kind of double-breasted (or pullover) short coat developed in Wei and Jin Dynasties. Its characteristics are that the sleeves are elbow-length and waist-length, and it is usually worn outside the shirt.

During the Sui and Tang Dynasties in China, the half-arms were double-breasted, pullover, lapel or collarless, and the double-breasted half-arms were tied with a small belt as the chest. Popular in the court of Sui Dynasty, it was first recorded by court officials and women. Half-arms were more popular in the early Tang Dynasty. Not only can men and women wear it, but it has also entered the ranks of court uniforms and spread to the people.

It is worth mentioning that lapels are not a tradition of Han costumes. The Tang Dynasty was an era of multi-cultures. At that time, women not only led the international fashion trend themselves, but also were good at drawing inspiration from the national costumes of the third world. The once popular lapel and double-breasted cuff half-arm is said to have probably originated from Qiuci, the hometown of western music.

The rise of half-arm, half-arm and half-arm of pullovers is quite interesting. It originated very early. In the Three Kingdoms, Wei Mingdi wore a thin silk half-sleeve coat to appear before the minister, but was questioned by the minister. What is the reason for this strange dress? It can be seen that the style of short sleeves belongs to the non-mainstream fashion when it first appeared. But with the progress of the times, it became popular in the flourishing age of Sui and Tang Dynasties. The Tang Dynasty was an ancient youth in China and an era of dissolute imagination. At this time, the half-arm soared into the sky and became a common practice.

Of course, not all have been forgiven. For example, the prime minister of Emperor Taizong of Tang Dynasty thought that the half-arm was a "frivolous suit", which was specially written in French and was not worn. Maybe there are fashionable men and women in his family who have been spanked for this. However, this is only part of the phenomenon. Another famous minister, Ma Zhou, went to the toilet and asked that no matter how ordinary people are, they can wear half an arm outside their light clothes, thinking that this dress is very appropriate. Being able to put forward different opinions on a dress shows that the imperial court and men at that time were still very confident and did not think that the so-called "obedience to the demon" would lead to national subjugation-that was an excuse that their ancestors and future generations loved to find.

Half-arms were quite popular in the early Tang Dynasty, which was also related to the narrow clothing in the early Tang Dynasty. On the mural of Princess Yongtai's tomb in Tang Dynasty, a maid-in-waiting of honor guard wore an arm and a half on her dress.

(2) Xunzi:

Xunzi is also known as Zi Chu. A coat evolved from a half-arm or a single-arm, characterized by greatly extending the sleeves and lower lapels of the half-arm. It began in the Tang Dynasty and prevailed in the Song, Yuan and Ming Dynasties. Cloak was developed in the Ming Dynasty. Both men and women take it, and its form changes greatly due to different uses and time.

Although it was popular in the Song, Yuan and Ming Dynasties after the Tang Dynasty, we can also refer to the modeling at that time: men in the Song Dynasty wore it from emperors, officials, scholars, businessmen, ceremonies and so on. Women wear them from queens, concubines, princesses to ordinary women. But men usually use it as a lining for casual clothes or clothes. Women can wear it as a formal dress (official dress) or as a formal dress next to a big dress. In Song Dynasty, the clothes were long-sleeved, with long sleeves and crotch under the armpit, that is, the clothes were not stitched back and forth, and there were belts under the armpit and back suffix. The double belt under the armpit could have been used to tie the front and back skirts, but the raccoon in the Song Dynasty didn't tie it, but hung it for decoration, which means imitating the form of the ancient single (underwear) cross-belt, which means "it's good to stay old." When you wear a robe, you tie it around your waist with silk. There are three kinds of lapels in Song Dynasty: straight lapels and double lapels, oblique lapels and disc lapels, among which straight lapels are the most. Oblique collar and disc collar are only worn by men under public service, while women wear straight collar and double-breasted style. As for the name of Xunzi, there is another saying in the Song Dynasty that Xunzi was originally the clothes of maids and concubines, so it was called Xunzi because maids and concubines generally stood behind housewives. Housewives with status wear big sleeves. Maids-in-waiting and concubines wear clothes with crotch under their arms, which is more convenient to walk. Women's dresses in Song Dynasty were short at first, and then lengthened, and developed into a standard format with sleeves larger than shirts and skirts.

In Ming dynasty, there were wide sleeves and narrow sleeves. Wide sleeve lapels are only decorated with lace on the skirt, and the collar goes all the way to the hem. The narrow sleeve button has decorative lace on the cuffs and collar, and the lace on the collar only reaches the chest.