Weaving technology of Shu brocade

Shu brocade takes mulberry silk as the warp and weft. According to the production technology and specifications of Shu brocade, through the combination of multiple processes, the structural form between mulberry silk is changed, and the twisted raw silk is turned into exquisite and colorful Shu brocade. This process is generally called the traditional weaving process of Shu brocade. The main process of Shu brocade consists of four parts: silk weaving preparation process, silk weaving process, twisting dyeing process and jacquard weaving process.

Taking time sequence as logic, the first part of the weaving process of Shu brocade is the weaving process. Represents craft, which is a little craft and flower picking;

The second part is the scouring and dyeing process of hank yarn, and the representative process is taro beating;

The third part is the preparation process of silk weaving, that is, assembly;

The fourth part is knitting on the machine. Dianyijiang

Shu brocade designers design patterns (including patterns and colors) according to the technical parameters of Hualou brocade machine and the technical conditions provided by product technology. From the design pattern to the technical parameters, it is necessary to "point the craftsman" on the craftsman paper. According to the number of needles on the loom, the warp and weft density of the fabric, the pattern and the size of the pattern, the paper is selected, the number of vertical grids and horizontal grids of the paper is determined, and the paper is drawn and colored according to the fabric structure.

Pick flowers to make books.

In order to weave strict, colorful and complicated patterns, the loom of Shu Brocade Xiaohualou needs a jacquard control device, which can control the lifting of warp yarns and weave multicolor weft yarns according to the program. The operation of making patterns is called "picking flowers and knotting" in ancient Shu Brocade weaving technology. This tool includes: flower apron, flower string and flower hook. Pattern picking is equivalent to the pedal operation in the production process of mechanical jacquard brocade pattern, and the thread crossing is equivalent to diamond plate. yeast for making hard liquor

Rubber tapping is a process for processing weft yarns for brocade. Because the wound silk coil is in the shape of olive core with sharp ends, it is called "tapping" assembly.

On-machine assembly mainly refers to the operation of connecting the nail thread (fiber thread) with the "claw pull" of the patterned floor wood loom and threading it into the pattern in groups.

Dingba flower stand is a cross frame plate used for threading fibers. Before you get on the loom, you need to determine the number of weft insertion, that is, how many weft insertion to the loom. The number of patterns is determined according to the length of patterns and the weft density of products. According to the existing technical equipment conditions of the brocade loom in Shujin Flower Shop, a weft yarn is equivalent to a thread (once shedding and throwing a shuttle), and a thread is equivalent to a pattern. Weave by machine

Hand-woven Sichuan brocade is made by a small flower building wood loom, which requires two people to cooperate with it. There are two floors, the upper floor is a "flower puller", the lower floor is a "shuttle picker", and the lower floor leads the beating-up, and the two craftsmen work closely together at the same time.

Hualoumu loom is 6 meters long, 1.5 meters wide and 5 meters high, with more than 1 1000 fibers. The picker controls the lifting of heald frame with his feet as much as 16 pieces. No matter how cold it is in winter, they always operate barefoot in order to distinguish each pole with their feet. The complicated and exquisite floret construction machine preserved in Shu Jiang Jin Yuan is completely connected with wooden wedges, and there is not a nail in the whole machine, which is also a great miracle in the manufacturing history of China.

The development of Shu brocade machine has gone through a process from simple to complex, such as sitting loom (waist loom), oblique loom, Ding Qiao loom, flower floor manual jacquard machine and so on. Although the warp beam heddle jacquard machine has appeared since the Warring States period, the multi-heddle and multi-crawl loom is still widely used. The weaving patterns on the stone reliefs unearthed from the No.1 Tomb of the Eastern Han Dynasty (Zengjiabao, Chengdu) show that the oblique loom used by women for weaving is a common machine in the silk weaving industry of the Han Dynasty. Later, it is said that the pedal loom was invented by Han ChenBaoGuang, and the Three Kingdoms Ma Jun changed the old silk loom. This improved jacquard structure is similar to the "Ding Qiao loom" used by farmers in Shuangliu area of modern Chengdu. In Ming Dynasty, Song Yingxing described the structure of jacquard machine in detail with words and illustrations in Tiangong Wu Kai Naifu. At present, the large-scale bamboo and wood building loom of Qing Dynasty, operated by two people at the same stage in Jinli Shopping Center of Chengdu Jin Shu Factory, has the same basic structure as that described by Tiangong Wu Kaizhong, and it is also called long loom because its fuselage length is 16 feet to 18 feet. There were only two relatively old Shu brocade looms in Chengdu during Jiaqing and Daoguang years in Qing Dynasty, one in the exhibition hall of Beijing Chinese History Museum and the other in Sichuan Provincial Museum.

Only one process of "weaving" involves many skills such as knotting, bumping, pulling flowers, picking, bending down and splicing. For example, picking a shuttle is a very simple step in the weaving process, but it is not easy to operate in practice. It takes three years to throw a two-catty shuttle smoothly in the delicate silk thread. After such a complicated process, the hand-woven Shu brocade is bright and bright. From different angles, the light will reflect different colors, which are lifelike and have a special relief mosaic three-dimensional effect.