What are the characteristics of men's and women's clothing in China in each era and class? From the pre-Qin Dynasty to the present

I. Xia, Shang, and Western Zhou

The costumes of the Shang Dynasty were roughly divided into three kinds

1, the simple clothing of slaves to cover their bodies.

Usually a round-necked garment, connected to the top and bottom, bound by a rope in the middle, less than ankle-length, and with no ornaments on the head.

2. Commoners or small slavers.

They were more elaborate in their dress, generally wearing clothes on the top and garments on the bottom. The length of the garment was up to the knee, but the train was as long as the foot, with a belt around the waist. There are no decorations on the clothes.

3. Royalty.

The clothes were gorgeous, with fine decorations on the top and bottom, either embroidered or painted. The waist was also bound with ribbons, and an axe-shaped decoration with a narrow top and a wide bottom was worn in the center of the belt.

The main materials for clothes were linen, silk and leather. Linen could be worn by both rich and poor, but there was a difference in thickness. Silk and leather were mainly used by the slavers and nobles. Silk texture of the clothes painted and embroidered on the same as the bronze, mostly for the cloud and thunder pattern.

The hair of Shang men was mainly plaited. Some had their hair braided on top of their heads, some had their hair braided on the left and right sides, hanging down on their shoulders, and some had their hair braided on top of their heads. Shang Dynasty women's hair is basically the same as men's, to the plait hair, but there are a few is the plait curled down to the shoulder. At the same time also appeared scarf hat. Shang Dynasty scarf hat form is relatively simple, mostly for the hat band type, hair harness is more animal bone, made of jade, the hat band is made of silk fabric.

Zhou dynasty clothing and the Shang dynasty is roughly the same, but more than the Shang dynasty to the loose, the length of most of the knee, in addition to the small sleeves have appeared in addition to the big sleeve. The belt around the waist was tied in a bow. The style of scarf and hat is also rich, in addition to the hat band, there are flat. Pointed. Crescent shape, and the shape that protrudes in the center and rolls up on both sides. Generally speaking, the low and flat ones are worn by common people, and the high and pointed ones are worn by nobles.

Note: The sleeves of the clothing of the Shang Dynasty were narrower for all classes of people.

The Spring and Autumn and Warring States Periods

During the Spring and Autumn and Warring States Periods, the upper class was popularized by deep clothes and hu clothes.

1, deep clothes

The popular deep-clothed robes among the nobles, is the traditional nobles since the Western Zhou Dynasty, while the common people thought of the dress, usually wearing short brown. Deep clothes are characterized by one is connected to the upper and lower garments; the second is that there is no difference between male and female styles, all can be worn. However, there are two kinds: one is the wide style of the Central Plains, "wide belt" comfortable to wear, long, not dragging the ground, the hem is not open, elbow can be worn, the sleeve length and arm length is equal to the waist with a large belt, the Central Plains aristocrats love to wear when the feast. The second is long and thin style, "renewed obeisance hook edge" Chu most popular, longer than the northern thin, wider collar edge, with thicker fabric for the edge, right obeisance is very long. During the Warring States period, there were single, folder, cotton, leather. The collar style of the robe breaks through the rectangular collar of the Western Zhou period, popular cross-collar right-over-obese, left-over-obese.

2. Hu Clothing

Hu clothing is easy to ride and shoot, and the warriors of all countries were dressed in it. The hu uniform gradually became the military uniform of the Warring States period. It was characterized by a short coat, long pants with hooks, short boots and leather bian. The huqi was originally the common dress of the nomadic people in the north. The top of the hu suit was worn by laborers, warriors and children during the Shang and Zhou Dynasties, and was not longer than the knee; the hu suit was girded at the waist with belt hooks, unlike the Chinese girdle, and the pants were worn in place of robes, and the boots were worn in place of shoes.

The belt hook, the ancient name "Shi Bi", "Xianbei", it is the northern nomads of the sash decoration. Belt hooks small inch, big more than a foot, there are imitation stick, bamboo, lute and other images. Raw materials include jade, iron and copper. Inlaid with precious stones, glass, or gold and silver.

Three, the Qin and Han Dynasties

The Han Dynasty men's basic first uniform is the conical cap. The conical cap mainly has the conical cap and flat conical cap, but the specific style and color according to the person's identity, status, occupation, age and different. For example, the conical cap of the emperor and the officials of different grades is different from the conical cap of the civil and military officials according to the color of their clothes; the civil officials mainly wear the conical cap, while the military officials wear the flat conical cap. The green conical cap is worn by officials and servants, the red conical cap is worn by military officials, and the conical cap is worn by underage children.

The crowns and hats are used only by officials and are usually worn on top of the conical cap. Crowns and hats are mainly crowns, long crowns, the Commission appearance of the crowns, leather-bent crowns, Jubilee crowns, Tongtian crowns, Yuanyou crowns, Gaoshan crowns, Jinxian crowns, the law crowns, martial arts crowns, Jianhua crowns, Fangshan crowns, Qiaoshi crowns, but non-coronary crowns, but the enemy crowns, guards crowns, and so on. Most of these crowns, except for the Long Crown, are derived from the Zhou Ritual. These crowns have different occasions of use, such as coronet crown, long crown, commission

Looking crown, Leather Bent Crown were used for the rituals of the suburb; Tongtian Crown for the court dress; Yuanyou Crown for the forgettable dress; Jinxian Crown for the dress of Confucianism; but the crown for the palace door ministers of the dress, but the enemy of the crown of the guards of the dress, the Jubilee Bent Crown and the crown of the building of China for the dance of music people of the dress of the ritual.

The robe is the Han Dynasty general people's regular clothes. There are two main styles: one is a straight train robe; the other follows the train of the Warring States period. Train type robe, no buttons, lapel from the armpit to the back of the circle, the waist bound ribbon. The dress is wide and has large sleeves. The collar and sleeves have a soap-colored border. The straight-train robe was popularized in the late Western Han Dynasty. Both styles were common to both men and women.

The Han Dynasty emphasized agriculture over commerce and stipulated that merchants were not allowed to wear brocade and embroidery, but only kudzu and hemp fabrics.

There was no strict difference between the styles of shoes for men and women in the Han Dynasty. Men's shoes were square toed and women's shoes were round toed, but they could be used universally. In daily life, the nobles wore silk shoes, which did not follow the color of their clothes. In the north, because of the cold weather, they wore leather boots, while in the south, because of the high temperature and humidity, they wore straw shoes.

The socks were called horn socks in the Han Dynasty. The socks were more than a foot high and had a strap to tighten the mouth to prevent them from falling off.

The jewelry of noble women in the Han Dynasty included the step rock, hairpin, pearl, Hua Sheng, Cai Sheng, and nitpick (big long hairpin), and the length of the nitpick was used to differentiate between the grades. Since the jewelry on the head was too much for the real hair to bear, a fake bun was used, which was called a "big hand bun" in the Han Dynasty.

Aristocratic women often used 襦裙. In addition, there was the hanging robe, which was also the dress for banquets, and it was a tilted robe with a wide upper and narrow lower slanting width hanging down the side of the garment as a decoration.

Working women's clothes were usually simple, without jewelry, and for the convenience of labor, they often wore short clothes and long pants, and their hairstyles were usually in a bun without ornaments. Hair was parted in the middle, combed flat, backward, and hung in a bun at the back of the head, while noblewomen were good at high buns.

Women in the Han Dynasty already have facial make-up, in addition to thick make-up, there are strange make-up. For example, in the Eastern Han Dynasty, when Emperor Hengdi, General Liang Yi's wife, Han Shou, created her own make-up in a sad cry, with fine eight eyebrows, combing a bun with a fallen horse, folding their own steps, showing their teeth and smiling, the world called it a sad eyebrow weeping make-up, which was contrary to the popular wide-browed high buns.

Four, Wei Jin and North and South Dynasties period

The Three Kingdoms and Western Jin Dynasty dress and the East Han Dynasty is basically the same. However, from the Eastern Jin Dynasty onwards, they pursued the so-called "elegant and free" style, and the clothes, which were already relatively fat, developed in a more expansive direction.

The head is decorated with a scarf, a small crown, and a large crown in the late Southern Dynasties. The scarf was worn by the common people before the Han Dynasty, but at the end of the Eastern Han Dynasty and during the Wei and Jin Dynasties, some celebrities began to use it, and it became popular. The small crown is generally hollow, can be programmed bun, with hairpins from the back through the small crown and bun fixed, from the Han Dynasty flat conical cap developed.

The women's clothing in this period has developed from the deep clothes of the Han Dynasty to the direction of clothes and clothes separately, and the attire of the upper and lower clothes became the mainstream. During the Jin Dynasty and the Han Dynasty, there was also the appearance of a very short upper garment and a very long skirt. In some cases, the exposed part of the skirt reached the waist, which was called "the upper part of the skirt and the lower part of the skirt" in the history books.

In the north, after the late Sixteen Kingdoms, hu clothes became very popular, and their main features were tight-fitting, narrow-sleeved, and open hakama. Because they were very easy to move around, they were very popular among the Han Chinese working people.

The headdress commonly used in the north was the felt hat in addition to the small crown and scarf. The scarf developed into the Northern Zhou Dynasty, often with three feet of soap silk to the back of the turban hair, called "folding on the scarf", in fact, the later turban.

Fifth, the Sui and Tang Dynasty clothing (581 ~ 907)

Sui-Tang Dynasty, China from the division and unification, from the war and stability, economic and cultural prosperity, the development of clothing, whether the material or clothing style, are showing an unprecedented scene of splendor. Colorful brocade, a silk with five colors woven into various patterns, was often used for half-arm and collar edge clothing. Special palace brocade, the pattern has a pair of pheasants, sheep, phoenix, swimming scales of the shape, chapter color gorgeous. Embroidery, including five-color embroidery and gold and silver thread embroidery. Printing and dyeing patterns, multi-color overdyeing and monochrome dyeing. Sui and Tang Dynasty men's crown clothing is mainly characterized by the upper class people wear robes, officials wear turban, people wearing short shirts. Until the Five Dynasties, there was little change. The official clothes of the Son of Heaven and the hundred officials used colors to distinguish their ranks and patterns to indicate official rank. Sui and Tang Dynasty women's clothing Rich in fashion, often by the competition for the court women's clothing developed to the folk, were copied, and often by the Northwest ethnic influences and distinctive.

Sui-Tang period of the most fashionable women's clothing is 襦裙, that is, a short blouse with a long skirt, skirt waist with a silk belt high tie, almost and armpits. The women of the Sui and Tang dynasties were well dressed. From the court spread the "half-arm", with lapel, overlay, lapel or collarless style, sleeve length of the elbow, the length of the body and the waist, with a small band when the chest knot. Because of the wide neckline, the upper chest was exposed. Half-arms have been worn for a long time, and later on, men also wore them. At that time also popular long scarf, the Department of silver flowers or gold and silver powder painted flowers made of tulle Luo, one end fixed in the half-arm of the chest strap, and then draped over the shoulder, twisted in the arm between, called Phi Pal. Tang Dynasty women's hair ornaments are varied, each with a special name. Women's shoes are generally flower shoes, mostly made of embroidered fabrics, colored silk, leather. Tang people are good at integrating the Northwest ethnic minorities and Tianzhu, Persia and other foreign cultures, the Tang Zhenguan to Kaiyuan years very popular hu clothing new clothes.

Sixth, Song, Liao, Xia, Jin and Yuan costumes (947 ~ 1368)

Song basically retained the style of Han Chinese clothing, Liao, Xixia, Jin and Yuan costumes were respectively with the Qidan, Dangkang, Jurchen and Mongolian national characteristics. The Song Dynasty was a time of exchange and fusion between the various ethnic groups. The Song Dynasty costumes had three styles: the official costume, the casual costume and the old man's costume. In the Song Dynasty, the fabrics of the official clothes were mainly made of Luo, and the government, due to the old system of the Five Dynasties, gave brocade robes to the ministers every year, which were divided into seven classes of different colors. The official uniform color follows the Tang system, more than three products service purple, more than five products service Zhu, more than seven products service green, more than nine products service green. The official uniforms are roughly similar to the late Tang's long-sleeved robes, but the first clothes (crowns and hats, etc.) have been flat-winged silk hats, the name of straight-footed turban, the officials and ministers to serve, and become customized. Song dynasty official uniforms and inherited the Tang dynasty chapter clothing of the fish system, qualified to wear purple, scarlet uniforms of officials are required to wear "fish bag" at the waist, bag containing gold, silver, copper made of fish, to distinguish between the official grade. The "square heart" is also a feature of the court dress, that is, the court dress neck set on the round below the ornaments. Song Dynasty officials public service, uniforms outside the daily casual wear, mainly small-sleeved round-necked shirt and cap with a downward-facing soft winged turban, still Tang style, but the feet were changed to more convenient for the usual living in casual shoes. The representative clothing of the Song dynasty's oldest survivors was a wide-fitting robe with a big collar and big sleeves, and a Dongpo scarf. The robe was edged with dark-colored material to preserve the ancient style. Dongpo scarf for the square tube-shaped high scarf, rumored to be a great writer Su Dongpo created, in fact, for the revival of the ancient scarf, the Ming Dynasty, the elderly gentry also often wear with. Song dynasty folk first dress also have all kinds of popularity. Men were popular turban, scarf, women were popular flower crown and cover head. Women's hair style and flower crowns were the focus of the pursuit of beauty at the time, and best expressed the changes in attire in the Song Dynasty. Tang and five generations of women's flower crowns have become increasingly dangerous, the Song Dynasty flower crowns plus the development of changes, usually in the form of flower and bird hairpin hairpin comb grate inserted in the bun above, there is nothing strange. Liao, Xixia, and Jin were the regimes established by the Khitan, Dangxiang, and Jurchen peoples in ancient China, and their costumes reflect the development of their own traditions in the long period of cultural exchanges with the Han Chinese. Women of the Dangxiang ethnic group mostly wore hu clothes with turned-up collars and fine embroidery between the collars. Khitan, the female Genghis Khan generally wear narrow-sleeved round-necked knee-length coat, foot with long boots, suitable for immediate combat hunting; women wear narrow-sleeved cross-collar robes and shirts, long Qi foot back, are obeisance, is the opposite of the Han people, are used to wearing the fishing dun to the mainland had a wide range of popularity. Liao and Jin regimes take into account the reality of mixed **** existence with the Han, have set up a "South official" system to rule the Han Chinese within the Han, Han officials using the old system of official uniforms of the Tang and Song dynasties. Liao Dynasty to silk official clothing on the landscape birds and animals embroidered patterns to distinguish between officials, affecting the Ming and Qing official clothing grade identification, the Jin Dynasty is to official clothing on the size of the flower pattern set the inferiority and superiority, the lowest grade with no pattern or small diamond pattern of sesame seed Luo. The Khitan, the women's true male clothing because of the ease of action, but also for the Han Chinese adopted. The Yuan dynasty in the first year of the Yan You (1314), taking into account the ancient and modern Mongolian and Chinese clothing system, on the upper and lower officials and people's clothing color and other uniform provisions. Han officials still more for the Tang-style round collar clothing and turban; Mongolian officials are wearing collar clothing, wearing a four-sided corrugated hat; the lower and middle layers of the horse for galloping, the most fashionable waist pleats braided line jacket (round collar and tight-sleeved robes, wide hem, folded pleats, braided line around the waist), wearing a hat. Yuan Dynasty textiles have Nashi Yagin Jin Jin, Hun Jin Hitch, Jin Duanzi, Tuluo Jin, Sanliang Luo, big damask, small damask, South silk, North silk, wood Jin cloth, Fan Jin cloth ...... all kinds of names. The Yuan Dynasty held more than 10 times a year, when thousands of officials wore the same color, style and decorative nashi yagi gold brocade jewels of high-level dress, known as the quality of the Sun suit, the cost for the past few dynasties. This style of clothing to the Ming Dynasty but was used as an errand boy clothing.

Seven, Ming and Qing costumes (1368-1911)

The Ming Dynasty to Han traditional clothing as the main body of the Qing Dynasty, the Manchu clothing as the main stream. And the dress of the upper and lower classes of the two generations have obvious levels. Upper class official dress is a symbol of power, has always been the importance of the ruling class. Since the Tang and Song dynasties, the dragon robe and yellow color for the exclusive use of the royal family. Since the North and South Dynasties, purple has been the most expensive color for all officials. Ming Dynasty, because the emperor's last name is Zhu, so Zhu as the right color, and because the "Analects" has "evil purple to take away Zhu also", purple from the official uniforms abolished not to use. The most distinctive feature is the use of the "patch" to indicate rank. Patch is a piece of silk about 40 to 50 centimeters square, embroidered with different patterns, and then sewed to the official clothes, chest and back of a. The civilian officials with a bird, a bird, a bird, a bird, a bird, a bird, a bird, a bird, a bird, a bird and a bird. Civilian officials with birds, military officials with beasts, each divided into nine classes. Usually wear a round neck robe with clothing length and sleeve size to distinguish identity, the older for the honor. The main first dress of the Ming Dynasty officials followed the Song and Yuan turban and slightly different. The emperor wore a turban with the wings of the hat erected from the back upwards. Officials wore a turban with spreading wings and lacquered yarn for court dress, and an ebony hat for regular dress. Officials' wives and mothers who were granted titles also had red dresses with big sleeves and various kinds of Xia Phi with differentiated grades in terms of patterns and decorations. In addition, the upper class women have been wearing high-heeled shoes, and there is a high bottom, outside the high bottom of the difference. The clothing of the common people in the Ming Dynasty was either long, short, or shirt, or skirt, basically inheriting the old traditions, and the varieties were very rich. Dress with color, civilian wives and daughters can only dress purple, green, peach and other colors, so as not to mix with the official dress color; the working masses are only allowed to use brown. General cap, in addition to the old style since the Tang and Song Dynasty is still popular, Zhu Yuanzhang personally formulated two kinds of, issued by the country, the general public. One is a square barrel-shaped black lacquer yarn hat, called the four sides of the Ping Ding scarf; one is synthesized by the six pieces of hemispherical cap, called the hexagonal cap, meaning the four oceans are peaceful, the world to one. The latter has been handed down, commonly known as melon hat, is made of black velvet, satin. The Qing dynasty, the violent means to implement shaved hair and easy to dress, according to the custom of Manchu unified men's clothing. Shunzhi nine years (1652), the "dress color shoulder ordinance" promulgated, since the abolition of the strong Han national colors of the crown clothing. In the Ming Dynasty, all men wore their hair in buns, loose-fitting clothes, stockings and shallow shoes; in the Qing Dynasty, they wore their hair in braids, and their braids hung behind their heads, and they wore thin horseshoe-sleeved argyle clothes, tight stockings and deep boots. But the government and the people's clothing according to the law is clearly distinguishable. The main varieties of official dress in the Qing Dynasty were long robe and waistcoat. Horse coat is added to the robe coat, because the origin of horseback riding short clothes and named, characterized by front and rear slits, when the chest nail stone green patch a side (Prince, County King with round patch). The bird and animal patterns and rank order of the patches were similar to those of the Ming Dynasty. Qing dynasty official hat and the previous dynasty is absolutely different, where the sergeant, the difference above the military and political personnel are wearing like a bucket hat and small latitude cap, according to the winter and summer seasons have warm hat, cool hat points, but also depending on the level of grade on different colors, materials, "top", after the cap drag a bunch of peacock plume. Plume called plume, senior plume on the "eye" (feathers on the round spots), and have a single eye, double eyes, three eyes of the difference, eye more expensive, only Prince or outstanding ministers are rewarded to wear. The emperor sometimes also rewarded wearing a yellow coat, to show special favor. Influence, other colors of the waistcoat in the officials and gentry gradually popular, become a general dress. Four, five or more officials also hanging beads, with a variety of precious jewels, incense wood made, constituting another feature of the official dress of the Qing Dynasty. Silk spinning, embroidery and dyeing and various handmade professional progress, for the Qing Dynasty dress varieties of rich conditions. Women's clothing in the Qing Dynasty, Han, Manchu development situation is different. Han women in the Kangxi, Yongzheng period also retained the Ming Dynasty style, fashionable small-sleeved clothes and long skirts; after the Qianlong period, the clothes are gradually fat and short, wide cuffs, and then add the cloud shoulder, the pattern of renovation can not be stopped; to the late Qing Dynasty, urban women have gone to the skirt with pants, clothes with lace, rolled teeth, a coat of the expensive most of the money spent on this. Manchu women wore "flag dress", combed flag buns (commonly known as two head), wearing "flower pot bottom" flag shoes. As for the later generations of the so-called cheongsam, long-term mainly used in the court and the royal family. In the latter part of the Qing Dynasty, the cheongsam was also imitated by Han Chinese noblewomen