Traditional Culture Encyclopedia - Traditional stories - Xuegu said: Explain the knowledge of different fronts of suits in detail
Xuegu said: Explain the knowledge of different fronts of suits in detail
The front of a suit can be divided into single-breasted or double-breasted buttons. Single-breasted buttons are more suitable for modern men's clothes and can be used in many occasions. Double-breasted suits are more advanced than single-breasted suits, and the suits with double-breasted suits are more exquisite and historical. In addition, there are some rare deformed plackets, which are more fashionable. For men who work, this type of placket should not be recommended.
Single-breasted
The most common single-breasted coats are one button, two buttons and three buttons. A single-breasted suit jacket with one button and three buttons is more fashionable to wear, while a single-breasted suit jacket with two buttons is more formal. The common styles of single-breasted suits for men's wear are mainly two buttons, flat lapel, high lapel and round hem.
Double-faced
Double buttons, four buttons and six buttons are the most common types of double-breasted suit jackets. Double-breasted and six-breasted double-breasted blazers are popular styles, while four-breasted double-breasted blazers obviously have traditional styles. Men often wear double-breasted suits with six buttons, gun lapels and a square hem.
Width of suit placket
The overlapping width varies from 2 to 9 (10) cm, and the double-breasted suit jacket does not overlap (the previous amount). But to be on the safe side, 1cm is often reserved in the center line of the front line. These three traditional folding door styles are: single-row placket, double-row placket and conjoined double-row placket.
The width of single-row interlocking doors is usually 2~3cm, with a maximum of 4cm; the width of double-row interlocking doors is usually 6~8cm, with a maximum of10 cm; ; The connecting double-button placket has a folding width of 2cm at the waist.
In the traditional cutting process, the width of the single-breasted coat with low lapels is 4~4.5cm, and the button position may not be on the front centerline, but slightly deviate from the seam. The width of double-breasted placket can reach 9~ 10cm. Connect the double-button placket, and there is some overlap near the waist line. But the button style is generally located 2cm above the waist line.
Finally, we must understand that the style and shape of the barge head are different, and the form of the front is also different. The stitching of the placket may fall to the hem or bend at the hem. Folding doors can be wide or narrow to match the shape of lapels. The way to draw the correct collar shape is to draw the collar shape on the garment piece along the hypocycloid, just like lapel (the same as the basic method of lapel drawing), and then transfer the collar to the outside of the hypocycloid as the symmetry axis.
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