Guangdong people's rivers and lakes, half in the big file.

As a foodie who often walks around looking for delicious food, any foreign friend asked me where Guangzhou is the most authentic and delicious. Without exception, I will take them to one place-big-name stalls.

It's best to choose an explosive night, an open-air booth that looks a little messy, a big round table, a plastic stool, a big fan, and a group of old people wearing shorts and flip-flops sitting around.

Stop it, the signs are all X-note and old X-style routines, and the surrounding area is very noisy. If you don't order loudly, those guys will ignore you.

Salt and pepper shrimp, fried vegetables in shrimp sauce, fried snails ... and a bottle of beer, sweating and blowing a cool breeze. Yes, this place is right.

It is no exaggeration to say that Cantonese people are no different from salted fish if they don't have big-name stalls in summer. I didn't know what it meant to be like a duck to water until I went to a big-name stall.

The flavor of the rivers and lakes in the midnight snack, Guangdong big-name stalls said the second, no one dared to say the first. If you want to get in touch with the most authentic nightlife in Guangdong, you must go to a big-name stall. If you don't come to the big-name stalls, you don't even know what the true feelings of Cantonese people are.

Tin bronze bone big card file

Whether it is a "food stall" or a "big-name stall" is now controversial. But in the beginning, this form of stall originated in Hong Kong. According to historical records, it is more accurate to call it "big name file". When it was spread to the mainland, the general usage took the meaning of "sitting in rows" and was mostly written as "food stall".

As early as 1847, the Hong Kong government began to set up hawker licences. 192 1 The government divides hawkers into fixed hawker licenses and mobile hawker licenses, so there are "big cards" and "small cards".

△ Different stalls will handle different foods, and each stall owner will benefit each other and increase business.

In the 1950s, the street food culture was quite prosperous. At that time, there were all kinds of authentic "big-name stalls" in the streets and alleys of almost every district.

Considering that it is easy to identify and can help the poor have a chance to make a living, the authorities have combined the "big brand" and the "fixed cooked food stall" into one, and both of them are supervised by fixed hawker licences.

△ In the big-name stalls in the 1960s, food stalls were generally near the sidewalk, and it was very simple to put folding stool.

Compared with roadside stalls, the license plate of big-name stalls is a big piece of paper, which is mounted and hung in a conspicuous position. Compared with the fixed restaurant, although the layout is chaotic and unpretentious, the big-name stalls are more flexible and affordable.

The earliest big-name stalls, at most, had a kitchen built of iron steel frame, covered with a canopy, and the stove could be started. When opening, the shopkeeper took out several folding tables and chairs. When the furnace is turned off at night, the shopkeeper will tie up the booth with wooden boards and iron sheets on the roadside to keep out thieves.

△ There were already many big-name stalls on the street in the 1960s.

Where there are grass roots, there are big brands. At that time, most of the stalls were hidden in narrow streets, where coolies gathered, and low-priced big-name stalls became good places for these bottom floors to rest and eat.

△ In the 1960s, women and children chose to sit on a folding table and eat slowly.

Take Wonton Noodles, the most representative city, for example. In the 1960s, it was divided into large, medium and small bowls. The big bowl sells for 7 cents, the medium bowl sells for 5 cents, the thin bowl sells for 3 cents, and a wonton 1 cent.

You can eat a dish of rice rolls for fifty cents, and barbecued rice for one yuan. In short, you can enjoy a breakfast for one Hong Kong dollar.

Although the big-name stalls are a little rough, iron and copper bones fatten the stomachs of a large group of civilians.

At that time, in the prosperous period of big-name stalls, there were at least 20 big-name stalls in a street, and most of them went out at night. At that time, most people's canteens had big-name stalls first, then tea houses, and then various forms of restaurants such as tea houses appeared in competition.

Hong Kong movies always like to make a fuss about big-name files.

If you can't talk properly, you will blow water at the food stall, and your glasses will be full of grievances at once. The big-name file in the movie Infernal Affairs sets off a unique Jianghu atmosphere.

Food stalls can also talk about love, such as Andy Lau and Sammi Cheng's Blind Detective. Eat romantic French dinner and abalone wings, it is better to eat big-name chicken feet. That's the fireworks that humans destroy pink bubbles.

Big-name file, the master is in the folk.

In Guangdong, which is adjacent to Hong Kong, in fact, as early as after the reform and opening up, there were also vendors carrying burdens and stepping on coal stoves to set up stalls in the streets or under banyan trees.

It was not until Hong Kong introduced the culture of big-name stalls, especially in Guangzhou, a city full of delicious food, that big-name stalls became an indispensable landscape. In Guangzhou, the music teahouse, clothing night market and big-name stalls are the three symbols of the 1990s.

I still remember when I was a child, several big-name stalls were opened in the streets and alleys near my home early. In the morning, some old people usually take newspapers and radios and order a cup of milk tea in a shop.

At noon, the styles provided can be rich: a bowl of Wonton Noodles, barbecued rice, a pot of clay pot rice, and a few mouthfuls of fried beef river ... That's what Guangzhou's neighbors probably call "Pingliangzheng".

The most exaggerated thing is that there are more than a dozen big-name stalls on the Pearl River just a few steps to Saigon Fishing Port in the evening. From six o'clock in the evening to four o'clock in the morning, several tables were shirtless, watching the lights by the river while blowing the river wind, drinking beer and eating fried snails and all kinds of seafood, not to mention how much they enjoyed it.

Friends from other places come to ask me where the big-name stalls are authentic and delicious, and I will tell them-

The most authentic big-name stall must not be a stall that looks very clean and decorated, and the tin shed will be ok.

If you don't want it to turn on the air conditioner in hot summer, you need a big fan; Plastic chairs and folding round tables can be used, and cleanliness addicts may want to iron the tableware with boiling water several times when they see it.

Secondly, don't think too much about the service attitude of the stall owner and the man. Calling "pretty girl" is a customary title. Don't think too much. They are usually as busy as a bee and seldom come to ask what you want.

The menu is also very casual. Some people stick paper on the wall with crooked fonts, while others simply leave out the menu and order orally.

The main characters of big-name stalls usually appear in snack bars.

Some dishes seem simple, and the most common one is "stir-frying". This essence lies in "stir-frying", that is, you should see the chef's fire burning in the process of cooking, and "noisy" is a double pleasure of sight and hearing.

Familiar with technology and temperature. Watching the fierce fire throw the pot can make the wok just right.

"King of soy sauce" is a common classic seasoning type in cooking. Don't underestimate a dish of "king of soybean fried noodles". The materials are nothing more than onions, onions, sprouts and noodles, but many big-name stalls dominate the streets by this signboard.

It is not normal to add lard to the seasoning and go to the big-name stalls without eating lard.

Many big-name soy sauce dishes and rice dishes are famous signs, which can combine the freshness, taste and strength that Cantonese people like to eat.

Although it is not the best stuff, this kind of civilian food can often kill high-end restaurants such as restaurants and teahouses.

Last year, many people were discussing why the restaurants in Guangzhou were not selected. The old artist guessed it at once. In Guangzhou's food circle, this kind of "grounding gas" is often talked about.

Many home-cooked dishes that look like rotten streets are unremarkable, but these booths are not enough to attract Michelin-selected people, and even the environment is not up to one star.

Ordinary people in Guangzhou don't care about Michelin stars. The most popular street food stalls and snack bars are familiar to everyone, and the master is in the folk.

If you go deep into the atmosphere of big-name stalls in Guangzhou, a dish of fried snails with a few mouthfuls of cold beer will make you feel delicious.

△ Stir-fry is the theme of big-name food.

The vitality of big-name files is far stronger than you think.

In the 1990s, due to poor sanitary conditions and serious pollution to the Pearl River, the government began to clean up big-name stalls.

With the increasing number of high-end restaurants, the public is scrambling to chase the introduction of exquisite catering, and problems such as noise, lampblack, garbage, street nuisance and food hygiene are increasingly magnified.

There are many disadvantages of big-name files, especially the phenomenon of mixed fish and dragons. Now the big-name files are not as good as before.

Modern young people's definition of big-name stalls only refers to restaurants with relatively simple roadside decoration. For example, in some food streets, stir-fry a few dishes at will, plus a few beach plastic stools, which is what they call a big-name stall.

They prefer to punch in online celebrity restaurants, and there are even big-name stalls in online celebrities, imitating the traditional style of big-name stalls in Hong Kong. Green iron sheets, dim light bulbs and plastic stools are all in place, but there is always an old feeling.

Atmosphere can be used for nostalgia, but the core is eating. Classic dishes are not only not really close to the people, but also lack the original flavor of wok.

"Big-name stalls" used to be synonymous with civilian food culture, which was popular not only in food streets around Shanghai and Beijing, but also in Southeast Asia and even Australia. The new words included in the Oxford Dictionary also include the word "Dapaidong" transliterated from Cantonese.

Although the sanitary noise environment is worrying, big-name stalls are still growing wildly all over the world, relying on flexible iron and copper bones to exist in various forms.

In addition to the traditional Cantonese-style big-name stalls, Guangdong representatives also have Chaoshan casserole porridge stalls and dog meat and mutton stalls in western Guangdong. Some broke out in Guangdong, from the north and south of the Yangtze River to the big-name stalls with local characteristics. Crayfish, skewers, barbecues and beer are the soul of big-name stalls.

The dirty stall in Beijing and the fly restaurant in Chengdu are actually twin brothers of big-name stalls.

The essence is the same-open-air, delicious, mainly eating. As long as you don't feel that the environment is dirty, that someone is shirtless, that the diners next to you are talking loudly with their legs crossed, and that the boss's attitude is still a little string, you may really be surprised.

Some moved to restaurants, for example, Feng Tonghui, who dominated the barbecue stalls in Guangzhou for many years, started from the barbecue stalls and now moved to the second floor of a rented restaurant, specializing in night barbecue.

I don't know that after visiting several places, gourmets who know how to eat will "eat too much" and look for places where the wind blows.

Some have become stray ghost files, such as fried snails that once swept the big-name files. Once known as the "night market witch" in Guangzhou, he often wears long blond hair, pushes an old bicycle and carries a small pot of fried snails on his back. While frying snails, he goes to the streets in the name of singing.

The big-name stalls that used to appear in Beijing South, Baoye Road and Yuexiu South have gradually disappeared into the big-name stalls in the food street.

Regular customers know that in the past, whenever they encountered fried snails, they would order a plate of snails and listen to a salty song. Although some people always think he is too vulgar, he is a real grassroots. In the impression of many people, because of speculation, Guangzhou's big-name stalls have a touch of secular fireworks.

Old artists think this may be the reason why big-name files will not disappear after many twists and turns. The existence of big-name stalls is a hard-core demand of urban street culture.

The tired shell fades during the day, T-shirt flip-flops, and night arrival is the home of big brands.

It's always a little sad to be alive. Grassroots citizens in the city need this kind of midnight food store. They walk with their stomachs and hearts.

In the big stalls, make an appointment with three or two friends, have a few sips of beer, eat a few dishes of cooking and chat with the stall owner. The ups and downs of life are between the lines.

In Guangdong big-name stalls, you never know how many houses a Cantonese with slippers has at home. Here, whether you earn 3000 yuan or 30000 yuan a month, you may sit in the same big-name stall and be fed by a plate of fried beef river with 15 yuan.

The relationship between people can be very direct, even queuing, noisy and quarreling freely, which is irreplaceable by other restaurants.

Rise and fall is the inevitable fate of everything, so is the change of big-name files, but relax, the vitality of big-name files is far stronger than we think.

Suddenly, I am glad that we live in a street nourished by big-name stalls and have had a golden age of big-name stalls.

References:

Research on Heda Brand Archives Culture

The origin of big-name files Ta Kung Pao

Take stock of copper skin and iron bones, the big-name files of Oriental interaction

Food stalls or big-name stalls? A detailed explanation of the evolution history of big-name archives "Lianhe Zaobao"

In the heyday, can Guangzhou food stalls still be eaten? information age

What do you remember about big-name files?

Author today

Captain Eugene H. Ajia ·Abs·Krabs

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