How to make ancient clothes

How to Make Ancient Clothes (Hanbok) - From HanNet Forums

Easy Cutting Method for 襦襦skirt

（Disclaimer: you can indeed make a set of 襦襦skirt with this method, and I've always done it this way, but ...... may not be the correct answer. So, I also hope that experienced seniors can correct any mistakes in it.)

Posted here is the basic type of cut for a jacket, in which the jacket is a short, fitted, cross-necked jacket, the width of which is based on the size of a person's bust, and the length of which is only past the waist but not the hips. (If it is the length of which reaches to or exceeds the hips, the hemline needs to be widened to become a rounded shape, and then it will not be a square hemline as in picture (1). Of course, you can continue to use this cutting method, but the width must be based on the size of the hips, so that when 襦襦bound in the skirt, the upper body will have too much excess amount of cloth), the skirt is a wrap-around half-length skirt.

I. Cutting of the jacket

There are two common ways of cutting a cross-necked jacket. Because of the interlocking neckline, the front flap overlaps a part of the cloth, and it is difficult for one piece of cloth to satisfy

the amount of cloth required for the front flap, so both common cuts consist of two pieces of cloth to form a single ??. One is the method of breaking open the middle of the back (as shown in Fig. (1)), where the two pieces of cloth are sewn together in the middle of the back. In ancient paintings, there is a distinct line in the middle of the back of a person's jacket, when this cutting method is used; the other is the front placket complementary measurement method, i.e., the sewing line of the two pieces of cloth is in the right front placket, the advantage of this cutting method is that the sewing part is covered by the left placket, so that it is not visible on the surface of the clothes. In addition to these two methods, there is also a way to adjust the slope of the shoulder sleeve to meet the amount of cloth needed to overlap the front part of the cutting method, only one piece of cloth is enough, do not need to cut another, but because I do not know much about this method, I will not go into detail.

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The following is the method of making up the amount of cloth at the back center (this is the method that I often use because I think it is a bit more traditional).

Step 1: Before cutting, you first need to have the following data: bust, shoulder and sleeve length, back length, bodice length, sleeve rim width, collar edge width, cuff stops, hem stops, and so on.

Bust: refers to the bust of the clothes rather than the body's bust. It is equal to the net chest circumference of the human body + clothing looseness. Put the soft ruler horizontal shape through the position of the breast peak point measured by the body's net bust (note that the soft ruler should be loose and tight), clothing loose by their own preferences to decide, in general, the amount of loose 4CM ~ 6CM for the tight type (suitable for the requirements of the more tightly fitted medium or single wear 襦), 8-10CM for the fitted (can be worn alone or inside and then add one or two pieces of clothing), 14CM or more is considered to be loose type, but this is the general thickness of the But this is for the general thickness of the fabric, if it is a thicker winter fabric or the inside is ready to do the sandwich cotton, but also in the basis of each type depending on the thickness of the fabric and increase the amount of loose. If you don't feel comfortable measuring, you can refer to modern adult women's net bust size: S-type 76CM, M-type 82CM, L-type 88CM, XL-type 96CM.

Sleeve length: from the cervical vertebrae (also known as the nape of the neck) at the back of the neck, to the position of the sleeve on the arm that you want to achieve. The width of the sleeve rim is also included in the shoulder sleeve length. Long sleeves can be measured to the tips of your fingers (or longer if you take into account the Hanbok saying that the sleeve length goes back to the elbow), and short sleeves, unless you want to make a half-arm, are recommended to be as short as the middle of the lower arm, because Han women's dresses are about not revealing the hand, and while modern standards can be relaxed a bit, it is not elegant to be too short. Modern reference size (only to the junction of the small arm and palm): S-type 59CM, M-type 61.5~63.5CM, L-type 63~64CM, XL-type 64.5CM.

Back length: from the back of the neck to the thinnest part of the waist. Modern reference size: S-type 36.5~37.5CM, M-type 38~39.5CM, L-type 38~40CM, XL-type 39CM.

Back length: you can measure it directly, from the point of the back of the neck to the thinnest point below the waist where you want it to be, but not up to the widest point of the hips (because it's a short jacket). If you don't want to measure it, you can also add it with the back length, usually the back length plus 5~14CM is fine.

Sleeve edge width: customize it to your personal preference. As for the sleeve edge, in general, narrow sleeves can be without edge, large sleeves must have an edge, and the middle sleeve with or without edge to determine their own.

The width of the collar edge is determined by personal preference. But pay attention to the proportion of its width with the person's face and body with, not too exaggerated. Such as thin people should not do too wide neckline.

Sleeve stop: The stop (also called seam allowance) is the amount of fabric used to join. If there is a sleeve edge, a 1CM stop is enough, if there is no sleeve edge, then leave 2~3CM.

Hanging stop: 2~3CM.

Step 2: Open the grid and cut out a square piece of fabric or a paper pattern (Picture (2)). If it is less easy to deform the fabric such as cotton, tweed, etc., you can operate directly on the fabric, if it is easy to deform the fabric such as chiffon silk and so on, it is best to do the paper pattern first. This line determines the position of the center of the back

1/2 bust line: this line determines the width of the garment

Back length line: determines the position of the waist

Bust line: this line passes through the chest but not through the point of the peak of the breasts, and indicates the position of the depth of the sleeve holes (the line of intersection of the sleeve and the body of the garment), the perpendicular distance from the line of the shoulder-sleeve is: net bust/6+7CM

Related images of this topic are as follows:

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Step 3: Draw the line between the body of the bodice and the underside of the sleeves, the back center line, the collar line, and the line of the left front placket (Fig. (3)).

The line between the bodice and the underside of the sleeves: as shown in the picture. It is desirable that the line below the sleeve meets the bodice between the bust line and the back-length line; if it is above the bust line, the sleeve hole is too narrow, and if it is below the back-length line, the sleeve hole is too wide. This line determines the shape of the sleeve, and is only shown in the picture as an example. Whether the sleeve is narrow or large, pipa, straight, etc., depends on the style chosen by the individual. It is important to note that the bottom of the cuff should be at a right angle, so that the front and back pieces of the sleeve can be easily joined.

Back Center: The line at the center of the back. Just turn the auxiliary line in Fig. 2 into a solid line.

Neckline: draw as shown in the figure. AB length = back collar cross + (neck edge width - N) + M, where back collar cross = 1/4 neck circumference = net bust / 20 + 2.9CM; M is the width of the neckline away from the neck, M is the larger the neckline is bigger; the size of the N for the width of the collar edge of the 0CM ~, in the premise of the M is 0, it determines the angle of the neckline, theoretically, when the N is 0, the edge of the collar is just to the neck side When N is equal to the width of the collar edge, the collar edge stands up and wraps around the neck. However, AB length <1/2 large shoulder width (large shoulder width is the length of the left and right shoulder peak points, measured through the back neck point). Back neck depth = 1/3 back neck cross.

The junction of the neckline and the back center line must be at a right angle, and then draw a round and smooth arc through point B to point C. Point C is any point on the left line between the bust line and the back line, but the highest point should not exceed the junction of the line under the sleeve and the body, and the lowest point should not be lower than the back line. the curvature of the arc from point B to point C should not be too large, and the largest point of the arc should not be more than 1~1.5cm away from the straight line of the BC. pay attention to the whole line should be rounded and smooth.

Left front placket line: make a vertical line on the arc of BC to the hem line, the distance of the vertical line from the leftmost line is about 2~6CM (if the distance is too big, the seams on both sides will be stretched out of shape, if it is too small, you can't rely on the placket's belt to regulate the size of the neckline and the body's elasticity).

Related images of this topic are as follows:

[img]/bbs/UPLOADFILE/2005-8/200581805413799.jpg[/img]

Step 4: Fold the fabric (paper pattern) along the shoulder-sleeve line, and draw the stop between the underside of the sleeve and the bodice (1CM) (as in picture (4)), and then put the Cut out the under-sleeve line and the bodice line (the shaded outer line in the picture)

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Step 5: Cut out the bodice piece. Open the folded fabric (paper pattern), draw the stops (1CM) of the back center line, neckline line and left front placket line, and then cut along the outside of the stop line (as shown in figure (5). The arrow in the figure indicates the direction of the warp yarn parallel to the edge of the fabric.

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Step 6: Draw the second bodice piece. Reverse the fabric (paper pattern) in picture (5), overlay it on another piece of fabric, and cut out the second bodice piece in the shape of this one.

Step 7: Cut out the neckline and sleeve edges (photo omitted). The length of the collar edge = the length of the neckline in the picture (3) x 2, the width of the collar edge = (the width needed for the finished style + 1CM for the stop) x 2. The length of the sleeve edge = the length of the cuffs + 2CM for the stop, and the width of the sleeve edge = (the width needed for the finished style + 1CM for the stop) x 2.

The jacket is finished cutting.

Two, the skirt cut

The traditional skirt of Hanfu is a wrap-around skirt, which is made up of several skirt pieces and is attached to the skirt waist. The waist of the skirt is tied on both sides (Figure (6). The number of skirt pieces is not fixed, because the ancient cloth is narrow, the more the number of skirt pieces, the greater the skirt and hemline amplitude will be. In the Han Dynasty, there were only four skirt pieces; in the Tang Dynasty, there were generally six; in the Song Dynasty, there were more than six skirt pieces; and at the end of the Ming Dynasty, there were more than eight or ten skirt pieces. Modern cloth width, you can increase the area of the skirt and reduce the number of skirt pieces, the number of skirt pieces of the modern wrap-around skirt is generally 3 to 4, but from the traditional inheritance, do the Han-style skirt is best to use the traditional number of skirt pieces, such as 6, 8, 10, 12 pieces, and so on.

Related images of this topic are as follows:

[img]/bbs/UPLOADFILE/2005-8/200581805716350.jpg[/img]

The following is an introduction to the cutting method of the skirt piece. The skirt piece cutting method introduced here for the cut method (drawing on modern cutting method, non-traditional method, personally feel that this method is more convenient), must do paper samples, can not be cut directly with the fabric.

Step 1: Before cutting the following data: waist (or upper bust/lower bust), skirt circumference, skirt length.

Waist (or upper bust/lower bust): Which data you need depends on the basic style. Skirts can be worn with upper chest girdle, lower chest girdle, and girdle waist. The upper bust, lower bust, and waist data should be measured according to the different ways of wearing the skirt.

Skirt circumference: = Waist circumference (or upper bust/lower bust) x 1.5~2 times + pleats + the amount of stops added to the left and right sides of the skirt (2~4cm). Which multiples according to personal walking habits and the weight of the fabric to decide, walk the pace of the larger, the greater the number of times the skirt should be larger, the better the drape of the fabric, the heavier the feel, the number of times the skirt can be a little smaller, but can not be less than 1.5 times, or there will be a risk of getting naked. The size of the pleats determines the number and size of the pleats of the skirt, and there are pleats and pleats in the pleats, so I won't go into details here. However, it is important to note that the number and size of pleats should be based on the thickness of the fabric and the person's body type to decide, because the pleats will increase the volume of the upper part of the skirt, so the thicker fabric should not do too much too big pleats, the body type of the more plump people should pay attention to only a moderate amount of pleats (a moderate amount of pleats can be played to disguise the role of the body shape, however, if the fabric is harder and the hem of the skirt is larger to form a greater number of waves, you can also do not pleats).

Skirt length: This is determined by the style. However, the bottom of the skirt should be at the ankle. If the skirt is too short, it will look bad if you expose your socks or calves.

Step 2: Open and cut the skirt. The size of the grid is shown in Figure (7). After opening the grid on the paper pattern to draw a vertical auxiliary line, the number of 2, 4 unlimited, preferably to the center line of the grid shall prevail on both sides of the symmetrical distance to draw auxiliary lines (as shown in Figure (8)).

[img]/bbs/UPLOADFILE/2005-8/200581805823174.jpg[/img]

[img]/bbs/UPLOADFILE/2005-8/200581805839716.jpg[/img]

Step 3 : Place the hem (as in Fig. (9)). Along the grid in the auxiliary line cut, the top left a trace of connecting not to cut, and then overlay on another piece of larger paper, with a big head pin or the like to set the middle piece, the rest of the pieces according to the same distance to unfold, unfolding the greater the distance, the greater the curvature of the skirt above the skirt piece will be the greater the skirt made of the skirt hemline will be the greater the hem of the skirt, and at the same time, the greater the degree of the wave of the hemline is also the greater. Here also according to the thickness of the fabric, hardness to determine the size of the amount of pendulum, the thicker and harder the fabric, put the amount of pendulum should be appropriate, otherwise made out of the lower part of the skirt volume will be too large.

Related images of this topic are as follows:

[img]/bbs/UPLOADFILE/2005-8/200581805927182.jpg[/img]

Step 4: Along the outer edge of the upper layer of paper samples put in place, the lower layer of the paper to draw the outline of the skirt piece (as shown in Figure (10). Note that the curves above and below the skirt piece should be drawn rounded and smooth, while the four corners should be kept at right angles.

Related images of this topic are as follows:

[img]/bbs/UPLOADFILE/2005-8/200581805952448.jpg[/img]

Step 5: Draw the stop of the skirt piece, the top of the skirt piece and both sides of the skirt piece is 1CM, the hem for the 2~3CM, hit the good warp direction line (as shown in Figure ( (11)), cut out (Figure (12)), the practice of skirt paper pattern is complete. Generally speaking, the warp direction of the skirt piece is perpendicular to the ground, there are also warp direction and the ground at an oblique angle to the practice, this practice can form a softer wave, but should not be used for too easy to deformation of the fabric as well as will destroy the pattern of the fabric.

Related images of this topic are as follows:

[img]/bbs/UPLOADFILE/2005-8/20058181030671.jpg[/img]

[img]/bbs/UPLOADFILE/2005-8/20058181030944.jpg[ /img]

Step 6: Use the paper pattern to cut out the desired number of skirt pieces on the fabric. After cutting out the pieces, check the paper pattern again. Because the sides of the skirt are diagonal, it is easy to stretch and deform the skirt, so you need to check the original pattern again, and cut off the parts that are long due to stretching.

Step 7: Cut out the waist. The length of the waist = skirt circumference - the amount of pleats - the amount of stops added to the left and right sides of the skirt (2~4CM) + the amount of stops (2CM). The width of the skirt waist is customized. Note that when the width of the skirt waist is increased to a certain amount, the skirt waist can also act like a wide belt to correct the waist shape (it is better to use a fabric with a slightly lighter color for the skirt waist than for the jacket and skirt pieces). However, the width of the skirt waist should not be greater than the distance between the waist and the lowest part of the ribs on the human chest (unless the style is specially designed).

Finish.

Reference:

http://www.shitouji.org/archiver/?tid-4645.html