Characteristics of Tang Dynasty Ladies' Clothing and its Development

Features of Tang Dynasty Ladies' Clothing

1, the openness of the Tang Dynasty women's clothing

The traditional Chinese rituals are very strict on the requirements of women, not only to constrain the women's actions, but also to shackle their minds, requiring women to wrap themselves up tightly, the slightest nudity will be regarded as debauchery. During the Tang Dynasty, the country was open and the status of women was relatively high, and "bare-breasted clothes" appeared in clothing, forming a unique style of openness. In the Tang Dynasty, women wore a short jacket on top and a long skirt underneath.

"Bare-breasted clothes" mainly refers to variations of the short jacket, in addition to the shortness of the jacket, another feature is the variation of the neckline, there are round neck, square neck, oblique collar, chicken heart collar and so on. The "bare-breasted jacket" first appeared in the court of concubines and kabuki dancers, who wore no underwear underneath and bared their breasts to show the beauty of the plump breasts and neck curves of Tang Dynasty women. Tang poetry in the "two eight flower tin, chest like snow face like flowers", is the best evidence.

The significance of the emergence of "bare-breasted dress" is not only in the nudity of the body, but also reflects the liberation of women's spirit. This shows that women in the Tang Dynasty could express their own requirements and free thoughts through clothing as they wished, and could show their body's charming curves more boldly, expressing the confidence of women.

2. The popular fashion of ladies in Tang Dynasty

The Tang Dynasty was the heyday of our feudal society, and both people's thoughts and material production reached a historical peak. The pursuit of fashion is not only the patent of today's women, has been reflected in the Tang Dynasty. Tang Dynasty women's clothing has a certain popularity changes, by the poets at the time called "the world makeup". The popular styles of women's clothing in the Tang Dynasty were 襦, robe, shirt, skirt, half-wall and other types.

Women's clothing is characterized by the unity of the skirt, shirt, cape, dress graceful, elegant, luxurious, elegant, a hundred beautiful competition.

The female skirt of the Tang Dynasty is a part of Tang culture, which added a charming scenery to the Tang Dynasty. Women's skirts in the Tang Dynasty were usually multi-paneled and very wide. Usually a skirt was made of six pieces of cloth and silk, and some skirts were even made of seven or eight pieces.

The colors of the Tang Dynasty women's skirts were very rich, a variety of colors, monochrome and inter-color points. But the most popular at that time was a red skirt - "pomegranate skirt".

In Tang poetry, we can see a lot of poems that praise the pomegranate skirt, and Bai Juyi's poem depicts: "Moving the boat to Mulanzhuo, and walking the wine to the pomegranate skirt." There is also a popular inter-colored skirt, which is a patchwork of fabrics of two or more colors, often with red and green, red and yellow, red and blue as the matching colors, which are bright and contrasting.

In addition to the popularity of 襦裙, women in the Tang Dynasty also popularized a dress called "half-arm". Because of its short sleeves, until half of the arm and named. It was characterized by two sleeves wide and straight only to the elbow, to the lapel, and long to the waist.

The short jacket and half-arm were matched with an accessory called "shawl". It was similar to today's shawls and scarves, one was wider but shorter in length and was worn like a shawl, and the other was a thin, long, fluttering belt that was pulled over the arms when worn. "Shawls and scarves are generally made of thin, lightweight fabrics with hand-painted or hand-embroidered designs.

3, the Tang Dynasty women's distinctive clothing

The Tang Dynasty, the infiltration of foreign cultures, the collision of Eastern and Western cultures, so that the women's clothing from the appearance of the decorative are boldly absorbing the characteristics of foreign clothing, creating some strange and colorful characteristics of the dress. Among the many novel costumes of the Tang Dynasty, the Hu costume was the most influential one.

Hu clothes have been imported to the Tang Dynasty for hundreds of years, but they were popular among Tang women during the period from Zhenguan to Kaiyuan of the Tang Dynasty. Hu clothing is characterized by a lapel lapel narrow sleeves brocade edge, the body wide, hem trailing the ground, waist belt, lapel and cuffs are decorated with patterns, mostly phoenix title folding branch pattern.

Hu clothing is short and sharp, good for riding and shooting. During the Tang Dynasty, there were fewer wars, but because many Hu people moved to the Central Plains in large numbers, Hu clothing became more popular than before.

4. Application of Tang Dynasty Ladies' Costumes in Modern Fashion Design

Because of the open policy adopted by the Tang Dynasty, women's life costumes in the Tang Dynasty were innovated on the basis of the inheritance of their own national costume traditions, and by absorbing the characteristics of costumes from the Western regions and the Tubo. As a historical costume different from that of other periods, Tang Dynasty costume embodies the characteristics of boldness, openness and more tendency to modern thinking.

More and more modern fashion designers are applying Tang Dynasty elements to modern fashion design, and designing classic works of fusion of ancient and modern costumes, reflecting the perfect combination of Chinese and Western cultures, ancient and modern cultures.

Second, customs-open and bound

On the mural painting on the east wall of the tomb of Princess Yongtai, there is an image of a Tang woman with a high bun, exposed breasts, shoulders draped in red silk,

wearing a yellow narrow-sleeved blouse, a green floor-length skirt, and a red belt around her waist, which is a reflection of the "pink breasts, half-covered by the doubtful snow" and "sitting on the table," and the "pink breasts, half-covered by the doubtful snow" and the "pink breasts, half-covered by the doubtful snow.

Slowly bundled skirt half exposed breasts, and not what people are so. In fact, the Tang Dynasty women are still in the constraints of feudalism, only the identity of the special people to wear out the open-chested shirt. Ancient paintings of people can be half bare chest, that is also raised in the inner house;

Singing girls half bare chest, it is the body to please the ruling class. And the women of the common people's house is still not half bare chest. At the time, the half-breasted dresses of the Tang Dynasty were somewhat similar to modern Western night gowns, except that they were not allowed to show their shoulders and backs.

The paintings of "half-breasted" and the cases of "women in men's clothes" seem to reflect the degree of social openness at that time. Therefore, many people believe that women in the Tang Dynasty were open and free. But this is actually only a one-sided understanding.

In fact, after Wu Zetian, the Tang society became more and more resentful of women's publicity, and "keeping one's duty and honoring one's womanhood" was the usual requirement for female members of the big families. When we look at the rules and regulations imposed on women by the ancient feudal culture, we find that many of the dogmatic books were written during the Tang Dynasty.

While women's quest for social status flourished during the Tang Dynasty, it was short-lived in terms of history. The only way to "go out" was to indulge in the pleasures of the flesh to the power of the male hierarchy, while the other call for social status was quickly lost in the traditional custom of male superiority over female. p>1, makeup - shoes and hats makeup

Tang Dynasty women footwear, boots, clogs and so on. Crawl to brocade, hemp, silk, damask and other fabric woven. There were also grass shoes made of cattail. Crawlers were often decorated with embroidery, and there were various types of crawler heads, such as round heads, high heads, cloud shapes, flower shapes, etc., such as the Tang poems: "Cloud Head Treading Palace Shoes", "Golden Knit Heavy Platform Crawlers", "Cong Head Shoes with Red Partial Fineness "

Boots.

Boots more brocade, weaving Gongzhi, beautifully decorated. Clogs in the summer barefoot with, for folk women like, such as Li Bai's poem: "clogs on the foot as frost, not with crow's head socks".

Tang Dynasty women pursued beauty beauty, its makeup and jewelry content is rich, hair, headdress, face makeup, jewelry and so on. Women's hair style to comb buns, or pulled on top of the head, or knotted in the back of the head, the shape is very rich. Names have half-turned bun, cloud bun, hovering bun,

Surprise swan bun, bonobo bun, double-ringed Wang Xian bun, Wu Barbarians bun, back to the migratory bird buns dozens of kinds of buns. At the beginning of the Tang Dynasty, the bun was simple and low; after the Tang Dynasty, high buns were popular and the bun styles were varied. Hair ornaments are hairpin, hairpin, step rock, win, uranium, flowers and so on.

Mostly made of jade, gold, silver, tortoiseshell and other materials, exquisite craftsmanship. Hairpins and hairpins are often used in pairs, inserted horizontally, diagonally or upside down. Step shake is one of the fine, hairpin head made of bird-like, bird mouth hanging bead string, with walking tremor, doubling the charm. Tang women also prevailed in the middle and late insert comb, to the exquisite and beautiful small flower comb decorated with hair.

Necklaces, necklaces, necklaces, necklaces, etc., armlets, bracelets, waist ornaments, jade pendants, pouches, etc.. The necklace was originally a kind of decoration between the Buddha's neck, with the Buddhism from India into China, Tang Dynasty for the courtesans, dancers like with. The upper part of a semi-circular metal neck ring, the lower part of a bead jade gemstone necklace, some in front of the chest part also hang a larger lock piece-shaped ornaments, the overall gorgeous crystal.

Arm bracelet, also known as jumping off, is a metal wire coiled turns, shaped like a spring, or a number of bracelets merged into an ornament, set in the arm, in the courtesans and ladies popular.

Scented pouch made of gold and silver, hollowed out, the upper and lower hemispheres to the mouth of the mother of the child to buckle together, there are two concentric rings, the ring and a small set of incense pot, concentric rings and a small gold pelvis are symmetrically connected to the shaft, no matter how to rotate, the incense pot of incense ash is not inverted and spilled.

2, skirt

Tang Dynasty women's clothing in the noblewoman popular among a skirt.

It will be tied high above the waistline, such as under the chest, or even tied above the chest line, history does not have a written record of the name is called 襦襦裙. This style achieves a distinctive ethereal effect regardless of whether one's figure is plump or thin, and is especially popular in circles where plumpness is fashionable.

This kind of dress was very popular among the ladies of the Tang Dynasty, and many ancient paintings and excavated artifacts preserved now have traces of it.

3, special - women's big-sleeved shirt

Talking about the representatives of the Tang Dynasty women's clothing, "women's big-sleeved shirt" can be called one. The word "big-sleeved shirt" refers to the wide-sleeved style, such as the Wei and Jin dynasties, men generally wear big-sleeved fluttering shirt, suave and elegant, until the Southern Dynasties period, this shirt is still a hobby for men of all walks of life, becoming a fashion.

But the big-sleeved shirt we are talking about here refers specifically to the extra-wide big-sleeved gowns of Tang Dynasty women. It is wider than the usual wide-sleeved tunic, in the ordinary outside the clothes or cloak or tie, the atmosphere is flowing. Fully reflects the prosperity of the Tang Dynasty, magnificent, atmospheric cultural characteristics, showing the gorgeous open aesthetic style. Nowadays, many people imagine that the "super wide and big fairy clothes" basically originated from this big-sleeved shirt.

Baidu Encyclopedia: Tang Dynasty Costume