Traditional Culture Encyclopedia - Traditional virtues - What are the specifics of embroidery?
What are the specifics of embroidery?
Embroidery originated very early. Embroidery linen embroidery text, seen in the book. Yu Shun time, there has been embroidery. The Eastern Zhou has set up an official specializing in its duties, to the Han has been the court embroidery. Wu Sun Quan of the Three Kingdoms to make Mrs. Zhao embroidered mountains and rivers and terrain military charts, Tang Yongzhen yuan (805 AD) Lu Meiniang to the Dharma Sutra seven volumes, embroidered on a foot of silk, because the embroidery is famous for the former records. Since the Han Dynasty, embroidery has gradually become the best art in the boudoir, and famous embroiderers have taken their place in the history of art.
The earliest embroidery that has been handed down to us is the two pieces of embroidery unearthed in the Chu Tomb in Changsha, Hunan Province, during the Warring States period. View of its needlework, completely with the braid stock stitch (i.e., lock embroidery) embroidered into the silk and Luo, neat stitches, color and elegant, smooth lines, will be the pattern of the dragon swimming phoenix dance, tigers and beasts, showing a natural and lively, lively and powerful, fully demonstrating the achievements of the art of embroidery in the Chu State. Han Dynasty embroidery, in Dunhuang Thousand Buddha Cave, Hebei Wulu charging tomb, northern Inner Mongolia, Xinjiang, Turpan Astana North Tomb have been unearthed, especially in 1972 in Changsha Mawangdui unearthed a large number of varieties and complete embroidery, more help to understand the Han Dynasty embroidery style. From these embroideries, the Han embroidery pattern theme, mostly for the wave of clouds, soaring phoenix birds, Mercedes the beasts, as well as the common Han mirror pattern of banded flowers, geometric patterns, and so on. Embroidery of the new base material, for the popular fabrics, such as weaving into the "prolonged life and greatly suitable for children and grandchildren", "long and happy bright" and other auspicious words of silk brocade silk. The technique is based on lock embroidery, filling the pattern, the composition is tight, neat stitching, extremely smooth lines.
The Eastern Jin Dynasty to the Northern Dynasties of silk fabrics, unearthed in Gansu Dunhuang and Xinjiang Hetian, Bachu, Turpan and other places, seen fragments of embroidery, regardless of whether the pattern or white, the whole are embroidered with fine locks embroidery all embroidered, become a full of embroidery features. Heirloom and unearthed Tang Dynasty embroidery, and the Tang Dynasty religious art has a close relationship, which has a lot of Tang embroidery Buddha, such as the British Museum collection of the Oriental Dunhuang Thousand Buddha Cave found in the embroidered account of the Lingwu Mountain Shakyamuni Sutra map, the Nara National Museum of Japan collection of Shakyamuni Sutra map, etc., with the when on the Fodun Rongsheng's beliefs, there is a direct correlation. At this time, the embroidery technique is still inherited from the Han Dynasty lock embroidery, but the needle has begun to change the use of flat embroidery is mainly, and using a variety of different stitches, a variety of colors and threads. The material used for the embroidery base was not limited to brocade and flat silk. Embroidery patterns used, and paintings have a close relationship with the Tang Dynasty paintings in addition to the Buddha figures, landscapes, flowers and birds also gradually flourished. Therefore, Buddhist figures, landscapes and pavilions, flowers and birds also became embroidery patterns with lively compositions and bright colors. Using the embroidery method of micro-fine flat embroidery, the use of various color threads and stitches, instead of paint strokes, formed a special art, which is also the unique style of Tang embroidery. As for the use of gold and silver thread coiled around the outline of the pattern, to strengthen the three-dimensional sense of the object, can be regarded as a Tang Dynasty embroidery innovation.
Tang before the embroidery, mostly for practical and decorative purposes, embroidery content and life needs and customs. Song Dynasty embroidery, in addition to practical products, especially committed to embroidery painting. Since the Jin and Tang dynasties, the literati loved calligraphy and painting, and calligraphy and painting were the highest artistic expressions at that time. In the Song Dynasty, calligraphy and painting styles directly affected the embroidery style. The relationship between embroidery and painting should be inseparable in all times until the Qing Dynasty.
The Song Dynasty embroidery developed, because the court rewarded the promotion of the reason. According to the "History of Song Dynasty - Officials", the Palace Embroidery House in charge of compiling embroidery. Huizong years and set up embroidery painting specialization, so that the embroidery painting classification for landscapes, pavilions, people, flowers and birds, and thus the famous embroiderer one after another, so that the development of painting to the highest level, and from the practical to artistic appreciation, will be brought into the embroidery of painting and calligraphy, the formation of a unique ornamental embroidery work. In order to make the work reach the spiritual state of calligraphy and painting, it is necessary to have a plan before embroidery, and when embroidering, it is necessary to measure the situation, which tends to be exquisite. Composition must be simplified, the pattern of taking the white is very important, and the Tang Dynasty, regardless of whether there is a pattern of full of embroidery is very different, the Ming Dynasty Dong Qichang "Peony Qingxuan Secret Record", "Song embroidery, needle and thread fine, with the velvet is not one or two silk, with a needle such as a hair thin, for the color is subtle colorful color shooting eyes. Landscape sub-far and near the interest of the pavilion to be the body of the depth of the characters with a look at the vivid feelings, birds and flowers extremely nicknamed gobbling attitude. Better than the painting is even better, look at the three interesting all ready, ten fingers of spring, cover to this". This paragraph describes the characteristics of Song embroidery.
Yuan dynasty embroidery is very few, Taiwan hired the National Palace Museum has only one piece of work, from the works of view, is still inherited the legacy of the Song dynasty. Yuan people with velvet a little thick, drop needle is not dense, not as Song embroidery of exquisite work.
Ming Dynasty dyeing and weaving process, to the Xuan De began to become developed. Embroidery began in the Jiajing period Shanghai Gu Lu Xiangyuan, embroidery family, famous women. The second grandson of Gu Ming Shi, Gu Shou Qian, and his wife, Han Ximeng, were well versed in the six methods, and were far removed from the true tradition of embroidery in the Tang and Song dynasties. Gu Shouqian and his wife Han Ximeng were well versed in the six methods of embroidery, which were far from the true tradition of the Tang and Song Dynasty hair embroidery. They copied and embroidered the calligraphy and paintings of ancient and modern celebrities, and they had their own secret techniques of silk matching and color matching, which made them able to dye and create a text, and the embroidered landscapes, figures, flowers, and birds, all of which were exquisite. This is the world-famous Gu embroidery.
Gu embroidery needlework, the main inheritance of the Song Dynasty has become the most complete embroidery method, more changes and the use of, can be said to be a set of needlework. Threads are still mostly flat, and sometimes twisted threads are used, which are as fine as hair, and the stitches are smooth, while the variety of color threads used is not comparable to that of the Song embroidery. At the same time and the use of intermediate color lines, borrowing and complementary colors, embroidery and painting, and strive to realistic original. And depending on the pattern required, you can take materials at will, not confined to the method, real grass, Siamese cocktail feathers, thin gold, hair can be embroidered into a new idea, especially the use of hair embroidery to complete the production of paintings, in the history of the world of dyeing and weaving has never been seen, that is, it can be seen that Gu Embroidery has an extremely skillful and subtle embroidery techniques.
Embroidery in the Qing Dynasty, most of the embroidery for the Imperial Court, most of which were drawn by the Palace Office of the Ruyi Museum of painting patterns, after approval and then sent to the Jiangnan Weaving jurisdiction of the three weaving and embroidery workshops, embroidery, embroidery is very neat and exquisite. In addition to the imperial court embroidery, at the same time in the folk have appeared many local embroidery, the famous Lu embroidery, Guangdong embroidery, Hunan embroidery, Beijing embroidery, Suzhou embroidery, Shu embroidery, etc., each with local characteristics. The four kinds of local embroidery, namely, Suzhou, Shu, Guangdong and Hunan, were later called the "Four Famous Embroideries", among which Suzhou Embroidery was the most famous. During the heyday of Suzhou Embroidery, the schools of embroidery flourished, famous artists competed, and the use of embroidery was popularized in daily life, resulting in a variety of changes in embroidery stitches, finer embroidery, and more ingenious embroidery threads and colors. Most of the patterns made for the celebration, longevity, good luck, especially birds and flowers embroidery, loved by the people, enjoy the famous embroidery everyone one after another, such as Ding Pei, Shen Shou and so on.
The end of the Qing Dynasty and the early Republic of China, Western learning, Su embroidery appeared innovative works. In the Guangxu period, Yu Jue's wife Shen Yunzhi embroidery skills, known as Suzhou embroidery world. Shen's 30 years old, at the 70th birthday of Empress Dowager Cixi, Shen embroidered "Eight Immortals Celebrate Longevity" of eight frames of work to celebrate the birthday, was presented with the word "blessing" and "life", and thus changed its name to Shen Shou. Shen embroidery with a new idea to transport the old method, show light and color, with the use of realism, the characteristics of Western painting Xiao Shen simulation in embroidery, the new "simulation embroidery", or "art embroidery", stitching varied, rich in three-dimensional sense.
With the development and innovation of Suzhou embroidery, extended to today, and the formation of many new embroidery embroidery, such as needlepoint embroidery, bundle embroidery, double-sided embroidery, double-sided embroidery, different color embroidery, micro-embroidery, color brocade embroidery, and hand-crank embroidery, and so on. In addition, there are many embroideries of border ethnic minorities, which also fully express the natural beauty and simplicity of the original style. The earliest embroidery was mostly for practical use, and then in the Song and Yuan dynasties, it was widely used in the production of calligraphy and painting, and gradually became a precious art for appreciation. The embroideries in the National Palace are mostly of this kind. The earliest of these embroideries was in the Five Dynasties, and the most popular was in the Qing Dynasty. Throughout the generations of innovation and development, each with its own characteristics, all have a high degree of achievement. Taiwan National Palace Museum collection is almost all fine, embroidery neat, fine needle and thread, color subtle, deep into the essence of calligraphy, and are mounted into albums and scrolls, so that the viewer is often mistaken for painting and calligraphy, appreciate the collection of art value is very high.
With the development of computer technology, in recent times there has been a complete alternative to manual computerized embroidery, the use of professional computerized embroidery software for computer programming methods to design the pattern and the order of the needle, and ultimately to achieve mass production of embroidered products, computerized embroidery not only on the traditional hand-embroidery to do a more perfect inheritance, and to solve the problem of traditional hand-embroidery can not be accomplished to the status quo of high-volume production. For a preliminary understanding of computerized embroidery on the first here.
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