Characteristics of ancient Greek costumes

Characteristics of ancient Greek costumes

In ancient Greece, all the clothes worn on the body were called Heaton, and there were also men's uniforms (chiton Amphimachalos) and work clothes (chiton heteromaschalos), which could also be called Heaton for short. According to the classification of clothing morphological characteristics, Heaton also belongs to the clothing with block curtain structure, and its structure is similar to that of Mesopotamia and ancient America. However, Heaton didn't dig a hole with a piece of material like Peng Qiu, nor did he wrap it with a piece of material like some clothes in Mesopotamia. Instead, he wrapped his body in half with a piece of material. On the one hand, the formation of the structural characteristics of Greek clothing is related to the aesthetics of Greeks, on the other hand, it depends on textile technology.

We know that the width of the fabric woven by the original waist looms in Mesopotamia and America is relatively narrow, generally only 30cm wide, but the width of the fabric needed to make Heaton should at least reach 1M, that is, it can cover the bust as the basic limit and has enough margin, which is beyond the reach of the general original waist looms. Greek textile mills use another kind of loom, called the hanging loom. The warp beam of the suspension loom is on it, and the warp yarn naturally hangs down by its own weight or a small hanging hammer, and then weaves the weft yarn in turn. The width of the fabric can be adjusted by the width of the warp beam. For fabrics with wider width, two people can also stand on both sides of the warp beam to cooperate. In this way, each piece of Heaton can be made of a whole piece of cloth, and it has not been cut, so that not only beautiful cloth edges are left on both sides, but also the fabric can not be easily loosened after the cloth edges are left, thus enhancing the fastness of the fabric. Some people used to think that these cloth edges were a kind of edge decoration, but now they know that they are woven with cloth at one time.

Dress style

1. Two styles of Heaton.

In the history of Greek clothing, there are two most common styles called Heaton. These two styles of Heaton were developed on the basis of the previous Heaton, which was horizontally folded in half and then stitched. They belong to two variants of Heaton: one is called Doria Heaton, and the other is called Ionia Heaton. Doria-style Heaton is also known as peplos. Peplos is used in Greek to refer to a piece of cloth sewn in clothes, and later to refer to Heaton worn by Doria, in order to distinguish it from the Greek Heaton, another variant of Heaton, namely Ionia Heaton.

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Doria-style Heaton makes clothes by horizontally folding the whole cloth in half, without cutting. However, the Doric Heaton is more complicated than the original Heaton. One of the differences between the two is that the Heaton in Dorian style has a layer of folding, that is, the cloth is folded in half to wrap the body, then folded outward in the upper direction, and then fixed at two shoulder points with sharp nails about 10cm long. The size of the turn-back is about a quarter of the height of the short side of the whole cloth, which varies from person to person, and is generally the size from shoulder to waist. This floor is very practical. It looks like wearing a shawl on a skirt-style close-fitting long coat, which increases the change of clothing style. When you need to cover your head, you can use an outer folding head, just like a hoodie in modern clothes. Secondly, after turning back, the block should move up. In order to achieve a certain degree of looseness at the waist and show a drooping feeling, it is necessary to pull up slightly after dressing and binding, and pull out a part of the margin to form a Greek waistline with a widened drooping feeling. Thirdly, the left and right butt joints of the two folded cloths are no longer completely stitched, but only stitched under the armpit, which further increases the natural drape of the cloths, and the opening can be seen from time to time when walking. Doria-style Heaton is the costume of Dorians who originally lived in Pinter Mountain area in northern Greece. The climate in the north is cold, so the fabrics are mostly made of thicker wool, and the styles are not so wide and there are not many wrinkles. In BC12nd century, they suddenly invaded the south on a large scale and annexed the rich Mycenae. Later, influenced by the orientals, they quickly absorbed the techniques and crafts popular in Greece at that time. After the 8th century BC, it was partly made of flax, and the wearing effect of flax Doria Heaton was close to that of Ionian Heaton, such as softness and wrinkles.