Clothing printing are what process?

Chinese people use cotton fiber weaving history can be traced back to the beginning of the A.D., to the end of the thirteenth century handmade cotton weaving technology has been widely disseminated in the Suwanniu, Jiangsu and Zhejiang and other regions, the blue printed fabric process has also been widely used.

In the old days, every family in the rural areas around Zhejiang and Jiangsu would weave and dye cloth. The clothes worn by the old generation, the daily use of the wrapped skin, and even the dowry of the daughters of their own family, are all home textile printing and dyeing of blue printed cloth. Curtains, headscarves, aprons, wraps, tents, etc. can all be made from it. Blue printed cloth seems to be the special fabric of the working people. Its pattern is full of rich local flavor, natural and fresh. The main production area of blue printed cloth in Jiangsu and Zhejiang is Nantong. In the Nantong area, since ancient times, simple folk customs, in the Ming and Qing Dynasties, due to the Nantong climate and geography at that time was very special, warm and humid, especially suitable for the growth of cotton and "bluegrass" and "bluegrass" and cotton planting in the local countryside is very common, plus the local folk textile technology is very Coupled with the local folk textile technology is very developed, every family has a wooden spinning wheel and loom, every family can hear the sound of the cloth machine, every household has a weaver. Therefore, in the Ming and Qing dynasties, Nantong dyeing and weaving blue prints of the workshop has developed into a large-scale market, according to the Ming Dynasty, "Nantong County" records, in the "Dyeing and Weaving Bureau," registered in the hand-dyeing workshop there are as many as nineteen.

Blue printed cloth originated in the Qin and Han dynasties, flourished in the Tang and Song dynasties, known as the ancient medicine spot cloth. Ancient and modern books in the volume recorded: "medicine spot cloth - to wipe the cloth with gray medicine and dyeing green, wait for dry, go to the gray medicine, then the green and white, there are figures, flowers and birds, poems in various colors, coverlet with." During the Ming and Qing Dynasties, the medicine spot cloth has been popular among the people, so the people also called watering cloth, on the basis of which it has been developed to the present day. The most typical blue printed cloth is the pattern of white flowers on a blue background and blue flowers on a white background. This traditional craft of intersecting blue and white backgrounds has a complicated production process. Nantong folk blue printed cloth is spun, woven and dyed by hand. The patterns are all hand-carved, and each carved paper plate is like the art of paper-cutting. Blue printed fabric production process is the first openwork plate, outline the general pattern on the vellum, with homemade knife instead of pen, openwork, openwork there are sub-surface, carve lines, carve points of the technique, carve the main use of broken knife knife, to show the large pattern, which is the most typical blue printed fabric in the knife, carve a line to carve a smooth, fluent, blue printed fabric pattern of the line is divided into yin and yang lines. The "engraving point" is usually pounded with a homemade tool, and the point generally plays a decorative role in the pattern. In addition to skeletonization, there is also a replacement plate, where the pattern is preserved by coloring the plate used in the early days and then skeletonized, so that it can be used repeatedly. After the plate is hollowed out, it is reinforced by brushing with tung oil, categorized and preserved, and can be directly printed with spinning and dyeing paste when it is needed. The woven white cloth is taken down from the loom and sprinkled with water to moisten it before printing and dyeing, in order to let the white cloth absorb the dyeing paste better. Blue printed fabric dyeing paste is made of soybean flour and lime, soybean flour and lime ratio is one to seven, plus water to make a paste, put the engraved plate on the white cloth can be scraped. Scrape the paste to pay attention to the force of uniformity, when the plate should be placed on the edge of the cloth and the plate, so as to make the layout of the proportionality of each other, printed and dyed paste of the white cloth takes two days to dry, to be dry after the gray paste, put into the tank dyeing. Blue printed cloth is blue and pure because of the use of plant dyes - bluegrass. According to the "Guangxu Tongzhou Zhi" records: "planting blue into beds, May mowed said the first blue, July and then mowed said the second blue, glazed tile a pool of water, draw water into the lime dip, stirring a thousand times, bailing water, that is, into indigo. Used for dyeing cloth, said small cylinder green. Out of Rugao is especially famous." Sowed in the spring and harvested in the fall, the leaves are immersed in a rock pool, and after a few days, the rotting branches are removed and lime or sea clam powder is put in to make it precipitate. After precipitation, the dye looks like soil, commonly known as "soil indigo". On May 7 every year, Nantong people harvested the locally produced plant dye, bluegrass, and processed it as the dye pigment for blue printed cloth. In the Ming Dynasty, indigo was a tribute to the imperial court, and it gave the blue printed fabric a pure and heavy flavor. Vegetable dyes were specially formulated to make the dyeing tank water for printing and dyeing blue printed fabrics. Each dyeing tank is more than one person high and contains living water that does not die for thousands of years, and the printed white fabrics and fabrics brushed with gray slurry are thrown into the dyeing tanks, and microorganisms constantly move in the water of the dyeing tanks to dye the parts without gray slurry blue, while the gray-dyed part retains the original white color, and the water of the dyeing tanks endows blue printed fabrics with the spirit of aesthetics. Careful maintenance of the dyeing vat is an ancestral skill that is not passed on to outsiders. For the sake of secrecy, the dyers always adjust their formula every night after carefully inspecting the water in the dyeing tank. In the early hours of the morning before the dyeing of cloth, a mysterious method is used to judge whether the cloth can be dyed or not, through the oil stains on the head and the amount of dyes fused to determine whether the dyes are ripe, so that the cloth can be dyed. The water in the dyeing tank is the source of life for the blue prints, and the dyers are also the respected artists in the dyeing workshop. The ancient and magical nature of oriental culture is centrally reflected in the dyeing and printing techniques of blue printed cloth. The dyed cloth is dried and then scraped with ash. Scraping is the fourth process to scrape off the anti-dyeing paste after dyeing. When scraping the paste, special care must be taken so that the cotton cloth is not scratched. After the dyed cloth has been removed from the light floating mortar, the seal reveals the original color. Where the mortar block is large, the gray layer naturally cracks in the dyeing roll, and the indigo penetrates into the cloth with the cracks, leaving a natural texture that can't be depicted artificially. The natural texture is the soul of the art of blue printed fabric. The beauty of blue printed cloth is the beauty of washing, after repeated washing and then drying. Will be dyed blue calico hanging in the sun under the sun scene, really call outsiders feel surprised, a blue cloth from the high clouds, hanging straight down, the sun shines when the blue calico emits dazzling light, a chic flower, as if out of the blue, and when the wind blew, those hanging cloths are doing a beautiful dance, give a person a kind of blink of an eye on the work of a feeling that may fly up to the sky, and the wind is not a good idea. We stood in front of these hanging blue prints for a long time, wanting to read out its freshness, read out its colorful patterns under the deep cultural heritage, read out the texture of its tough weaving Jiangnan weavers dexterous hands, read out the portrayal, dyeing that pure pattern of cloth dyeing workers Wuqing's hands and beautiful heart.