On the Design of Silk National Costume

On the Design of Silk National Costume

Traditional culture is the soil on which all ethnic groups live. Only the design rooted in local culture can create gorgeous works. After a long period of blindly following the trend of western clothing, China clothing industry began to reflect and deeply study fashion and the reasons for its success or failure. More and more people of insight realize that it is difficult to achieve all-round transcendence only by simple imitation, so there have been many nationalized discussions. However, there are many problems in the actual design. The main performance is that national costumes are conservative and lack of innovation. The works neither incorporate the spirit of the times into the national design, nor reflect the elegant, natural, casual and subtle essence of China's clothing. Nationalized rhetoric has become an empty talk.

The reason is that the design lacks problem consciousness and a clear understanding of the design direction and method of clothing nationalization. The narrow design concept has seriously hindered the further development of nationalized fashion design. Aiming at these problems, this paper tries to make some comprehensive analysis from three aspects: design nature, design method and design angle.

1. Design Essence: Descriptive or Guiding?

Generally speaking, the essence of design can be divided into descriptive design and guiding design. What are the descriptive questions? What is the national costume like? And then what? Why is this happening? What does instructional design care about? What should the national costume design look like? The former lies in? Do you know? It is people's feelings and understanding of national costumes; The latter is more important than what? Okay？ , is the role and change of people in clothing. Nowadays, the national costume design is mostly descriptive.

It must be pointed out that instructional design is inseparable from descriptive design. In order to make the theory more truly instructive, we must describe, inspect and evaluate national costumes to see if they are ideal in culture, society, economy and function. On the contrary, descriptive design cannot be divorced from teaching theory. Because if a creative design concept is not put into practice and a new national style is created, all descriptions and judgments are a mere formality and have no vitality. It can be said that the theory guiding design is? Go back to the internship? The process of evaluation and correction. In this way, the two complement each other.

At present, the design of silk national costume mostly stays at the level of description, without penetrating into its own unique design concept, and the designed works are also very mediocre. Can't leave? China element? Combination, to deliberately show the China mark. For example, styles are nothing more than double-breasted buttons, large-breasted buttons, buckles and stand-up collars. When it comes to patterns, they invariably bring traditional plate flowers, group flowers and patchwork flowers, and colors always can't jump out of the shadow of traditional five colors and can't keep up with the pace of fashion. The so-called euphemistic, implicit, fresh and elegant overall style is suspected of being artificial.

Of course, some designers can stick to their own understanding of traditional culture and emphasize their own ideas in their design. At Shanghai Fashion Week in 2003, designer Tan Yuyan's works run through her elegant design style, without deliberately piling up China elements, and the overall design is simple and generous, which is quite modern. Influenced by China's landscape paintings, Tan Yuyan uses stingy colors, which are nothing more than white, black and beige, to better show her enthusiasm for Buddhism and Taoism's quiet, indifferent and cheerful thoughts. On the whole, it is an out-and-out modern costume, but it gives people a strong Chinese style. This eclectic design technique not only describes the charming national style, but also highlights the personality characteristics of its own brand and has achieved success.

In a word, it is very important to clarify and distinguish the concepts of descriptive design and guiding design in design essence, which is helpful to fully understand and tap the potential space and direction of national silk clothing design concept. From the source of designer's design information and the starting point of design, we will find another pair of equally important concepts.

2. Design perspective: professional or non-professional information sources.

Another pair of important concepts is the difference between design angles, that is, professional sources and non-professional sources. This word was first borrowed from human research by AmosRapoport, an environmental and cultural scholar, and then gradually became popular in the design theory circle. Professional source means that information is provided by professionally trained observers or researchers, and non-professional source means that information is directly provided by non-professional observers.

This pair of concepts can be better understood through some examples. For example, the new season fashion show of high-end women's wear designers in Paris, the fashion predictions of professional fashion magazine experts, the new information provided by the fashion color association and the suggestions of buyers are all professional sources. Through questionnaires, interviews, dictation, etc. , directly record consumers' views and understanding of clothing, without observing the subjective evaluation of researchers, and the information obtained is non-professional sources.

For silk national costume design, professional information sources enable designers to accurately grasp the latest design concepts and fashion trends, so that the design has a sense of fashion and keeps up with international trends; Non-professional information sources enable designers to deeply understand the needs and aesthetic orientation of the public and make the design more rational and market-oriented. It can be seen that these two sources of information are equally important and cannot be neglected.

But the problem in reality is that most of the information sources of design are professional sources. Designers usually show their worship of big-name designers and superstition of authoritative forecasting institutions, while consumers' needs and clothing redesign are usually ignored by designers. The difference between professional sources and non-professional sources reflects a traditional contradiction in design theory, that is, the contradiction between the designer's ideal and the user's needs. The failure of design in some aspects is caused by this contradiction. Some designers have advanced design concepts, and their values of guiding public life through design cannot be accepted by the public. On the other hand, designers may despise the tastes of the public and are unwilling to communicate. Especially in the design of ethnic silk clothing, most designers seldom consider the preferences and needs of consumers and the feedback on clothing, which has completely become a self-entertainment game.

However, this phenomenon has also attracted the attention of some designers, who began to pay attention to the aesthetic orientation of consumers and the dressing style of street people. Just like Mix &；; Match (mixing clothes with different prices and styles) dressing style has formed a strong demand wind, which makes design masters bend down and make popular adjustments to their designs. Chanel is no longer just with? Lady? Draw an equal sign on the image and add sports style items. At the autumn and winter conference in 2004, Italian designer IssaacMizrahi mixed a Target vest with a value of 100 yuan and a jacket with a value of 80,000 yuan that needed to be specially made. Today, designers in China have seen their lack of communication with the first-line market, and conducted many meaningful direct investigations with customers instead of blindly following authoritative forecasting experts and design masters. Designs from non-professional sources are close to the market and are usually more likely to succeed. Hangzhou brand? Agum？ It began with the design of distinctive national costumes. Its costumes are brightly colored and bold, and most of them are ethnic costumes. At the beginning of the operation, the unique design really made the company successful, but in the subsequent operation, it was found that the sales volume was difficult to go further. Investigate its reason, its design also belongs to? Playing art? , only emphasize their own design concept, but ignore the customer acceptance. In 2005? Agum？ Make adjustments, pay attention to customers' needs and feedback, adjust the design angle, and make the sales performance immediate.

The expansion trend of professional goods supply to non-professional goods supply is reflected in the concept of changing from clothing itself to people-centered; Design embodies the transformation to consumption consciousness. While absorbing the latest trend factors and accepting the latest design concepts, designers should also do a good job in investigating potential customers to make their designs more rational.

After the design angle is determined, choosing the appropriate design method is also an important aspect that affects the quality of the finished product of nationalization silk clothing design.

3. Design method: general design method or design principle method.

3. 1 General design method

In 1960s, Japanese scholars put forward the universal design method, aiming at exploring the essence of design, studying the thinking law of human beings in the design process, and providing applied theoretical basis for scheme design. It proposes that the design is defined as a repetitive mapping from the entity function space S to the attribute space T (Figure 2). In other words, human beings have the cognitive ability to discover the functions and attributes of natural beings. But human thinking does not stop at the existing existence. Create through the logical deduction and operation of abstract concepts such as attributes and concepts? New entity (with new attributes and new functions). In the design of national costume, it can be considered that the existing national costume is an entity as a whole, which contains many factors, including style, color, fabric, technology, pattern and so on. According to a certain mapping axiom (clothing design is mainly about the requirements of the characteristics of the times and the designer's own design concept, etc.). ), the elements are mapped to the new entity one by one, and the new elements generated by the new entity in turn affect other elements in the entity, so that a new entity, namely the new national service, is formed by repeated mapping.

For example, we should design a sexy and avant-garde cheongsam. If we design the style first, raise the waistline, soften the stand collar and make a mini skirt, the design purpose is to make the dignity of cheongsam relaxed and young. After deciding this, we should consider choosing new fabrics. As far as the new style is concerned, the traditional flower brocade is too elegant. After thinking, we choose plain bright silk, and then consider using bold scarlet to match the style and fabric. In order to make the design not monotonous, traditional embroidery from China should be added to the body, and the pattern should be simple and representative.

By analogy, after a design factor is determined, consider whether other factors match it.

It can be found that the general design method is linear, and its design thinking process is: ask questions? Function expansion? Make a plan? Evaluation? (question)? Priority decision

Universal design method is widely used in national silk clothing design, which is suitable for designing clothing elements one by one according to a certain inspiration.

3.2 Design principles and methods

The design principles and methods were developed by American scholars. Originally used in the field of engineering design, it was later used for reference in many fields such as visual design and fashion design.

The past design was based on experience or trial and error, lacking scientific principles and methods to guide the development of design. Therefore, the design cycle is long and the efficiency is low, which can not meet the requirements of innovative design of complex products. Therefore, the purpose of its research is to find and summarize the evaluation criteria of design advantages and disadvantages, and find out a good design mechanism and design guide; Put forward the scientific method of design synthesis. Its design definition model is: does design theory think that design is society? Demand? Arrive? Product? Design is defined as the mapping of functional space FR to design parameter space DP.

Design produces a large number of schemes. In order to make the best design quickly, the design principle puts forward two evaluation principles. Principle of independence: maintain the mutual independence of necessary functions? Feasibility standard of the scheme; Information principle: Minimize the amount of design information? Scheme optimization criteria.

For example, when designing Guofeng clothing in the new season, various design functional factors (such as customer segmentation, price tolerance, best-selling styles, popular colors, traditional aesthetic orientation, etc.). ) are listed corresponding to their corresponding design parameter factors, as shown in Figure 5. Two principles must be followed when listing to ensure the efficiency and feasibility of the design. Then the design process and evaluation decision are made, and the scheme is finally determined.

The design process model is: problem design? Creative process? Analysis and evaluation? (question setting)? Decision optimization? Scheme.

It can be seen that the design principle and method are based on the target market, customers and fashion, and the essence is to design according to the needs. Design thinking is one-sided, which is manifested in screening a large number of design elements to make the design more comprehensive, fast and accurate. When designing national silk clothing, the design principle method can better grasp the market and accurately locate it.

These two design methods can be used alternately. For example, listing and selecting the elements with the method of design principle first, and then analyzing and evaluating the relationship between the elements with the general design method will make the design of national silk clothing more reasonable, rich and flexible.

4. Conclusion

Natural oriental style clothing is attracting the attention and favor of the world. Designers should deeply discuss the nature, information sources and methods of design when carrying out nationalization design. The nature determines the style orientation of design, the information source is related to the fashion and marketability of finished products, and the design method is related to the efficiency and accuracy of design process. Only by closely linking the three can we systematically integrate traditional culture, the spirit of the times, fashion trends and artistic ideas, benefit from design and innovative thinking, and emerge new styles.

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