Urgent!!! 1840 to 1949 The change of Chinese people's clothing

1840, China's ethnic groups mainly to meet as a representative of the traditional dress to meet the Manchu ancestors living in the white mountains and black waters, in order to adapt to the cold climate for a long period of time and chose to wrap the warmth of the robe as a good daily dress. In the middle of the Ming Dynasty, the Manchu absorbed the Zoroastrian garments of the Han Chinese in the Central Plains, and improved them into the "cheongsam", also known as "cheongsam", which has its own national characteristics. After the establishment of the Qing Dynasty, due to the mandatory promotion of the Manchurian aristocratic rulers, the cheongsam was popularized throughout the country, but it was soon fused with the traditional Han Chinese clothing. To the Republic of China period and added modern Western fashion components, the formation of a modern cheongsam with Chinese national characteristics. Since the twentieth century, the Manchu economy and culture have undergone great changes, and many traditional costumes have been very rare. The ancestors of the Manchu people are hunting people, in the era of hairdressing technology is not yet developed, in order to adapt to the life of long-term hunting and trekking, Manchu men chose to braid their hair as a hair style. The practice is to shave the hair in front of the forehead to avoid blocking the line of sight, easy to shoot arrows or fighting. The back of the hair is not for the hair register but combed into a braid, to adapt to the horse riding bumps. This type of hair style had been enforced by the rulers in the Qing Dynasty by political means.

The Han Chinese dress is one of the oldest national costumes in the world, dating from the legendary Yellow Emperor to the disaster of 1644, when the Qing army entered the country and established a highly centralized government centered on the Manchus. The Manchu rulers ordered the whole country to shave their hair and change their clothes, which caused national anger, dissatisfaction and armed resistance, and then the Manchurian Qing dynasty carried out bloody suppression and massacre by force, and the Han Chinese dress gradually disappeared.

In 1683, the Qing army into Taiwan, the extermination of Zheng Chenggong remnants, and from then on the Han suit in the daily life of the Chinese nation completely disappeared. After more than two hundred years of Manchu rule, today's Han people gradually forget the beautiful clothes they once had, and became the world's only ancient people without their own national costumes. Today, people see the "Tang" and cheongsam, long coat and waistcoat are not the national costume of the Han, but the national costume of the Manchu or improved. It is gratifying to see that today, more and more Han Chinese people are proud to wear their own beautiful clothes, this folk spontaneous revival of the Han Chinese national costume movement, often called the "Han Chinese clothing movement".

The history of 1840-1911 is finished

Then we come to the history of 1911-1949

The Xinhai Revolution overthrew the feudal system, and the Manchus died out

The Republic of China (ROC) was established. The Republic of China was dominated by Zhongshan clothing

During the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911), Chinese men wore their hair and clothes and hats according to the Manchu style, which continued until the beginning of the 20th century. Although China has entered the journey of modern history, the traditional clothing still maintains a certain degree of stability, clothing still follows the traditional style of robes, waistcoats, melon-skinned hats and other styles. Shortly after the 26th year of Guangxu (1900), the traditional clothing style began to be influenced by some foreign clothing styles, there were some changes, but the basic style still maintained the original state, until 1911 after the outbreak of the Xinhai Revolution, there were some fundamental changes, which symbolized the complete collapse of the Qing Dynasty and the end of an era. The Xinhai Revolution not only brought about drastic changes in society, but also prompted a more rapid and obvious change in clothing. Zhongshan clothing was born in this change.

The zhongshan suit is a large variety of modern clothing in China. The top of the shirt has a pocket with a cover and buttons on the top and bottom, and the bottom is a pair of pants, which was popular after the Xinhai Revolution, and it was popular in the world when Sun Yat-sen, the great revolutionary pioneer, was the temporary president, so it was called the Zhongshan suit. Chairman Mao Zedong appreciated the "Zhongshan suit" and insisted on wearing it all the time, so his foreign friends also called it "Mao-style uniform". It has the characteristics of our nation, easy to wear, comfortable, straight, in the eighteenth year of the Republic of China (1929), the formulation of the Constitution of the Kuomintang, had stipulated that a certain level of civil officials swearing in all wear zhongshan suit, in order to comply with Mr. law.

The origin of the Zhongshan suit is said to be Dr. Sun Yat-sen in Guangzhou as a marshal of the Chinese Revolutionary Government, felt that the suit style is cumbersome and inconvenient to wear, and the Chinese clothing in the practical shortcomings. Guangxu 28 (1902), Sun Yat-sen to Hanoi, Vietnam to organize the Xingzhonghui, Hanoi, incidentally into the Hanoi by the Guangdong Huang Longsheng opened a foreign clothing store, in order to save foreign exchange, and can reflect the Chinese national conditions and authorized Huang Longsheng design a beautiful, simple and practical Chinese clothing, Huang reference to the Western European and Japanese clothing styles, and combining with the popularity of the Nanyang overseas Chinese at that time, "enterprise collars The design was made by combining the "enterprise collar" blouse and student uniforms popular among overseas Chinese in Southeast Asia at that time. However, there is also information that the yat-sen suit was originally converted from military uniforms, in 1919, when Dr. Sun Yat-sen lived in Shanghai, once he took a set of worn army uniforms to the famous Henry's Clothing Store to ask the tailor to change them into "plain clothes", and after the change into "plain clothes", they still looked a bit like military uniforms. After changing into "civilian clothes", it still looks a bit like a military uniform. However, it was neither a "Tang suit" nor a "suit", and the shopkeeper named it Zhongshan Suit. Since Dr. Sun Yat-sen had a high reputation both at home and abroad, this style of clothing was popular and spread rapidly throughout the country. At that time, the Zhongshan suit had a seam on the back, a belt on the center back, nine buttons on the front placket, and "fat tucks" on the upper and lower pockets. Later, it gradually evolved into the present style: closed figure-eight neckline, loaded sleeves, 5 buttons on the front placket, and a seamless back. The cuffs can be open and pinned, or open and pinned with decorative buttons, or not open and pinned without buttons. Pockets, symmetrical left and right up and down, covered, pinned buttons, the top two small garment pockets are flat patch pockets with rounded bottom corners and a curved tip out in the middle of the flap, and the two large pockets below are tiger pockets (with edges overhanging by 1.5 to 2 centimeters). Pants have three pockets (two side trouser pockets and a back pocket with a flap), pulling up the trouser legs. Obviously, the formation of Zhongshan suit in the basic formation of the suit and rubbed the traditional Chinese sense, the overall silhouette is padded shoulders waist, balanced and symmetrical, wearing a stable and generous.

Since its birth in 1923, the Zhongshan suit has been the most popular and favorite suit for Chinese men. Mr. Sun Yat-sen, the Chinese democratic revolutionary, is the founder of the Zhongshan suit.

In 1923, when Mr. Sun Yat-sen was the Marshal of the Chinese Revolutionary Government in Guangzhou, he felt that the suit was not only cumbersome and inconvenient to wear, but also not very adaptable to the practical requirements of the Chinese people at that time in the aspects of life, work, etc.; and the original Chinese clothing (lapel short coat, lapel long coat, etc.) could not fully express the spirit of the times of the Chinese people at that time, and it also had the disadvantages of the suit in terms of practicality. The original Chinese clothing (short jacket with lapels, long shirt with big lapels, etc.) could not fully express the spirit of the times of the Chinese people at that time, and also had the shortcomings similar to the suit in practicality. Therefore, he advocated to take the "enterprise collar Wenzhuang" jacket, which was popular among the overseas Chinese in the South China Sea at that time, as the base model, and add a reverse collar on the enterprise collar to replace the stiff collar of the suit shirt. In this way, a blouse will have the role of a suit blouse, shirt and stiff collar; and "enterprise collar dress" blouse of the three dark pockets into four pockets, the following two pockets can also be cut into the following two pockets can be put into the number of items and how much to rise and fall of the "zither bag" style. Mr. Sun Yat-sen said that he reformed the pockets, in order to allow the pockets to put books, notebooks and other learning and work necessities, the pockets and then add a soft cover, the contents of the bag will not be easy to lose. Mr. Sun Yat-sen designed pants are: front slit, with a dark button; left and right each a large dark bag, a small dark bag in front (table pocket); right back hip dig a dark bag, with a soft cover. Such pants are easy to wear and great for carrying around essentials.

Assisting Dr. Sun Yat-sen in the creation of Zhongshan clothing assistant named Huang Longsheng, Taishan, Guangdong Province, originally in Hanoi, Paul Batou Street, opened Longsheng clothing store. 1902 December, Dr. Sun Yat-sen to Hanoi to prepare for the formation of the Xingzhonghui, accidentally into the store to store, and chat with each other. Huang Longsheng learned that the customer in front of him was the leader of the revolutionary party, Dr. Sun Yat-sen, and was greatly impressed. In 1923, Huang Longsheng worked with Dr. Sun Yat-sen in the Marshal's Office. When Dr. Sun Yat-sen was designing the Zhongshan suit, he asked him to help plan and sew the suit, which was successfully made into the world's first set of Zhongshan suit.

When Mr. Sun Yat-sen wore his own design, which was also the world's first suit, he said, "This kind of clothing is good-looking, practical, convenient, and money-saving, unlike a suit, which requires a hard collar in addition to a blouse and shirt, which are mostly imported (at that time, most of them were imported from foreign countries), which is a great deal of work and money." Zhongshan suit because it has the advantages of good-looking, practical, convenient and so on, so once advocated by Mr. Sun Yat-sen, it was welcomed by the general public.