What are the characteristics of dress in ancient Europe, Japan and China?

What are the characteristics of the costumes of ancient Europe, Japan and China:

The Classical Costume of Europe

Costume is one of the symbols of civilization, and the custom of dress reflects the characteristics of the national culture, the state of life of the people in an era, and the psychological characteristics of the people. Medieval Europe was a period of Christian rule, and Christianity had a great influence on European costumes. Because of the Christian doctrine of contempt for money, against luxury, "the clothing of the lower classes in the Middle Ages to simple and simple for the Shang, women do not dress up, and the jewelry donated to the church, the regular clothing only white fat coat and sleeved jacket is the main, plain color".

"European classical clothing development"

Medieval religious rule in Europe under the color of clothing, style is very monotonous, the color is still black, grey, white, clothing style to drag the ground robes are mainly. Ancient Rome's luxurious tow plus robe was abandoned.

Early Middle Ages, Europeans simple clothing, civilian aristocrats clothing style the same. The eighth and ninth centuries, men's clothing with underwear outerwear, clothing style is quite similar to our ancient robes, but tighter. Pants can be long feet into the crotch, short, pants tied to the umbilicus. Feet wear long or short socks, sometimes feet to legs are wrapped in cloth. Nobles and upper-class people with a rectangular or round cloak, cloak fixed to one shoulder, or tied to the chest; laborers with shorter tops. Charles the Great of France "wore only the clothes of the Franks - linen pants fastened with a belt, a woolen sweater and an overcoat tied with a belt" (A Cultural History of the Middle Ages and the Modern World, The Commercial Press, 1935, p. 53). In winter, they wore an otter or ermine coat with a cloak over it. Nobles have a wide belt around the waist, used to tighten the clothes and wear a sword, commoners are not allowed to wear a sword; clothing materials to linen, woolen fabrics are mainly. Oriental silk is expensive, to the same amount of gold, only a few nobles can wear. The Song of Roland (France), "the death of King Arthur" (British) has been described. Clothing class difference is mainly manifested in the clothing texture and origin of different, the nobles wear fine linen, wear wool cloak produced in Italy, winter, such as ermine and other valuable fur; commoners only wear coarse linen, coarse woolen fabrics. Women's clothing for the ankle-length tight-fitting tunic, two long and narrow sleeves, outside wearing a loose robe, sleeves shorter than the tunic. Long coat neckline is wider, neckline sleeve seams can have a variety of decorative edging. Cloak from the top of the head down.

10th century men's clothing became more tailored. British men's tights on the upper half of the fit, the lower half of the dress like knee-length, loose and stretch. The corset was a pullover. A cloak was worn over the bodice and pinned to the chest with a large pin. At this time the women's clothing became wide, the sleeves were fatter and longer, the hair was covered in a shawl, and the body was covered by a cloak. Their undergarments were long, reaching to the ground, and their tunics reached their knees. The sleeves were rounded and the clothes were ornately decorated, very much influenced by Byzantium. Their hair was covered with a veil, the ends of which were heavier at the back and reached the ground. By the 12th century, the loose-fitting dresses became slimmer and narrower, emphasizing the curves of the body. And tied behind the body, the sleeves gradually widened, the cuffs can fall to the knee.

The 12th century saw the emergence of the discus headdress, which can protect the sun to protect the eyes from heat, mainly worn by the Crusaders. Tops were popular with a front placket that split the front into two pieces. Women's clothing for the lace-up bodice, the top close to the body, the following is a wide skirt, between the two parts of the line sewed up, the two sleeves loose trailing long, the cutting method is the upper and lower garment cut and sewed together, with the previous use of

a large piece of cloth is not the same.

13th century men's and women's clothing tend to be the same, men's clothing and tights and a variety of tunic, round cake headdress, cap decorated sleeves, open chest shawl. Below the stockings, boots and shoes. Men wore a Central Asian-style beanie. At this time the popularity of body armor, suitable for travel wear, this coat is a large open chest shawl, the side has a seam, the arm can be extended to move. In addition, this period of popularity of closed vest type tunic, the upper body such as vest, the following can be long to below the knee, this sleeveless tunic, shoulder to the sides of the extension of the extension of the longer, into a hat decorated sleeves. 13th century laborers tunic length varies. Men wore knee-length shirts with short sleeves, heel-less shoes, and pants with a round hole in the heel for easy on and off. In summer, they wore spacious linen pants with the upper body exposed,

and in winter, they wore short tunics and sleeveless pullovers. Women wore long robes with a seam down the middle that allowed for easy labor and skirt pockets for crops at harvest time. Peasants were forbidden to wear good materials and garish colors.

After the 14th and 15th centuries, European clothing began to change. As a result of economic prosperity, agriculture, commerce, the development of handicrafts, international trade exchanges, the influence of the Eastern civilization, the European dress has undergone many changes, the aristocratic men and women chasing the fashion, aristocratic women to fight for beauty, men are not formal; aristocrats and the civilian population of the clothing has a more pronounced difference; clothing style changes, more varieties of clothing materials. Giant biography of the medieval clothing materials are satin, silk and wool blends, tweed, damask, tweed, tweed, tweed, gold thread satin, a variety of fur. Clothes were coats, jackets, tunics, blouses, shirts, shawls, and for women there were dresses, evening gowns, and so on. Ornaments have rosaries, rings, chains, precious stones, diamonds, jade, pearls, agate and so on. Clothing seeks to get rid of ancient customs and pursue fashion. Oriental dress in the decorations and buttons were absorbed by the Europeans, men's coats row a row of buttons or gems, and even underwear buttons are decorated with gems and buttons.

14th century men's jacket popular, jacket two layers, very close to the body, the sleeves are well-designed, you can move your arms freely, easy to move the whole body. There are more than a dozen buttons on the jacket, jacket lining with a thin belt can be thin pants with the upper end of the connection; tight coat worn outside the jacket, high collar coat rose in the late 14th century; collar will cover both ears, the collar behind the neck over the back of the head, the lower part of the skirt dragged to the ground; this period of the cloak with a set of buttons fixed to the body, the appearance of a rounded arc, and long and wide. Women's clothing is mainly tight tunic with sleeves and sleeveless tunic. Made of a piece of cloth, the neckline is wide, the collar is low, this is the 14th century European women's popular bare-collar shirt, the neckline has a round, angular, square, the neckline is open, revealing the upper part of the chest, the upper body has sleeveless, short-sleeved, bare arms, the waistband is raised very high. Both men's and women's clothing are decorative. Men's pants were attached to shoes with leather soles and bottomless boots with spurs. Tight men's pants were worn with two separate trouser legs and were covered by a long tunic in the front and back. Later, the top became shorter and shorter, and in the 15th century the jacket became even shorter and became a garment that did not cover the body. Women's bare-necked evening dresses and men's short tunics were frowned upon by priests.

In the 14th century, a kind of dyeing clothing was popular, the left side of the shirt a color, the right side of a color, the pants left and right legs of a color, the whole body left and right divided into four parts of the dyeing. 15 century, the beginning of the apprentice knight's clothing from the hat to the boots are used in black, white, light green color combination with each other. Red, black, green, and purple were the most popular colors. Pants, shoes, hats, and undershirts could be so divided. Pants can be purple on the inside and black on the outside.

The most common pattern embroidered on medieval clothing was the family crest. The coat of arms was originally a symbol of the Crusades to identify the enemy, and later became the symbol of the extended family and the general public family. 14th century prevailing respect for identity and family, women's clothing more embroidered large coat of arms, married women to the in-laws of the mother's family coat of arms were embroidered in the clothes on the left and right.

15th century women's clothing to men's clothing close to the loose long coat waist belt, tunic with a wide colorful belt waist, hanging on a short sword, wearing a man's small hooded hat, wearing pointy-toed shoes.

Medieval women's hair and hats. 12 century women customarily combed their hair in the back, tied two braids down the cheeks. 13-14 century women to square white linen head, knotted at the top of the head, or in the ear with a barrette don't, only to reveal the face. Medieval headscarves came in many styles, some similar to the modern nun's head scarf, and reached down to the nape of the neck. Young girls were allowed to wear flower crowns on festivals, but married people were not allowed to do so.The 15th century, under the influence of the Gothic steeple, gave rise to a similar aesthetic of dress, with V-necks, pointy shoes, and heathered hats. Heenan hat is conical, the interior with wire or paste to make its shape, the tip of the 40 degree angle, nine inches to three feet high, the hat is draped with tulle (made of high-grade linen), the cap has a ring fixed, the front edge can also be added to the velvet. Hats are expensive. Hats have one corner or two corners, some in the shape of a spreading wing.

There were many types of shoes in the Middle Ages, including leather, boots, short boots, slippers, slippers and so on. Leg straps and wrist straps were made of leather and woven linen and wool. Peasants often wore wooden shoes. Nobles wore pointed shoes, sometimes with extremely long toes, the length of which represented the status of the wearer. The general rule is six inches, twelve inches for gentlemen, fourteen inches for nobles, unrestricted for royalty, and not allowed for paupers.

Priests have been wearing black robes and hoods; but there are changes in the hair style. 8 century began to shave for the friars, the ceremony for the "hair-cutting", Greek or Eastern European hair-cutting style is to shave all the hair or cut very short, known as the "St. Paul style", the Roman hair-cutting style is to shave off the head of a round piece of the surroundings are still retained hair, known as the "St. Peter style". The shaving of a monk's hair is a sign of humility and devotion to God. `

The ruling classes of 14th- and 15th-century Europe chased luxury and pleasure, ignoring religious precepts, and this was particularly evident in clothing." No matter nobleman or noblewoman, all of them, like children, liked to wear new clothes and jewelry. This was a time of luxury and wastefulness, when men wore pointed shoes and women wore conical hats a foot high. A man of this time made a coat of the skin of three thousand squirrels, and the Duke of Orléans embroidered a poem on his sleeve with seven hundred fine beads."

In the Middle Ages, when Christianity ruled, the legitimate pursuit of beauty in dress was viewed as frivolous, and the struggle between asceticism and anti-asceticism manifested itself in clothing. People kept advancing in accordance with the standard of beauty until the Renaissance, when there was a major change in the development of clothing.

Byzantium from the Far East through Persia to silk clothing, or silk thread raw materials processed into thin silk, made of clothes. Men's clothing with tights, with sleeves, the front body has a lock costume for decoration, clothing knee-length, sleeve length varies. Waist belt. The long cape is a formal celebratory garment with beautiful colorful drapes on the front and back of the cape. The shawl, a long pleated piece of cloth, is fixed to both shoulders.

Women's clothing has a cloak, and a shawl (for royal queens) long tunic, evolved from the Christian vestments. Women's tunics were short to the hips and long to the ankles. Outdoor garments were long cloaks that fell from the head to cover the whole body. Noble women's garments were inlaid with gold and silver stones, pearls and onyx, and laboring women wore sleeveless or short-sleeved blouses that came down to the waist. From Justinian's portrait of the Queen, its clothing is gorgeous, wearing a long coat to cover the feet, the clothing system is very wide hem, like a skirt, the sleeves are thin and narrow to the wrist, the cuffs are tight. Waist tie a variety of ribbons, clothes decorated with a variety of gemstones, chest hanging a variety of pearl and gemstone ornaments, head cap, cap decorated with a variety of gemstones, earrings hanging down. Some of their clothing styles are European, and their silk fabrics and gemstone ornaments are produced in the East.

Japanese Costume

The traditional national costume of Japan. In Japanese, it is called "着物".

In ancient times, Japan had a long history of using the kanji, or "small sleeves," with attached sleeves, which were created by combining the "body hakama" of the south and the "kanji" of the north, and had "body hakkou" (vents) under the sleeve seams. From the 3rd century A.D., the Chinese robe was introduced to Japan and had an impact, and the "kozukuri" was developed in the Muromachi period (1338-1573) into the "nagajo kozukuri" with a knee-length hem and wide cuffs by absorbing the characteristics of the Wu costume (Wu costume of the Three Kingdoms period of China and the Wu costume of the Five Dynasties and Ten Kingdoms period of China), the Tang costume (costume of the Tang Dynasty of China), and the costume of the Ming Dynasty of China, and thus the basic form of the kimono was established.

The kimono is divided into men's, women's, children's, and children's singlet and jacket, and there are two types of kimono: the outer robe and the lower robe. The kimono is generally ankle-length, with a cross-necked collar, a right lapel, wide sleeves, a body eight mouths, no buttons or loops at the top and bottom, an obi belt, and a family crest printed on the garment. Men's kimonos are made of black, brown, gray, and dark blue fabrics, or fabrics with fine latticework, polka dots, and bird's eye patterns. Women's kimonos are usually made of colorful silk fabrics with fine embroidery, paintings and additional ornaments. Women's kimono obi (obi) texture for the weaving or embroidery of the satin, about 3 ~ 5m long, about 25 ~ 40cm wide, usually a single strip of weaving without cutting, when wrapped in the waist between the chest, in the back of the knot, knotting, more than 200 kinds of exquisite. There are more than 200 kinds of knots. There is a small padding in the middle of the back of the obi to hold up the pleats of the obi. The kimono has always been a favorite of the Japanese people at various social events.

The Characteristics of the Kimono

The kimono is a flat silhouette made up almost entirely of straight lines, which creates the beauty of the kimono. There are almost no curves in the kimono cut, except for a 20-centimeter opening at the neck pit, where the excess is folded over when the collar is put on. If the kimono is disassembled, one can see that the fabric used to make the kimono is still a complete rectangle. Because of the above characteristics of kimono cutting and making, there is more freedom in the measurements. The size of the person is less of a factor in the making of a kimono, and even if people of different heights and weights wear kimonos of the same size, the impression that the kimono does not fit is seldom given. This is because it is possible to adjust the size of the kimono at the waist depending on the person. Although the kimono is basically composed of straight lines and is worn in a straight shape, which lacks the display of the human body's curves, it shows solemnity, stability, and serenity, which is in line with the temperament of the Japanese people. Not only that, but the kimono also responds to Japanese nature; the vast majority of Japan is warm and humid, so the ventilation of the garment is very important. Since kimonos are loose-fitting, with as many as eight ventilation holes, and the sleeves, lapels, and train of the kimono can be opened and closed freely, they are well suited to Japan's terroir and climate.

Various types of kimonos are worn in different styles and in different ways, and these differences serve an important function of clothing: to show the identity, age, and social class of the wearer. In the case of women's kimonos, for example, these "minor differences" are mainly seen in the sleeves. The sleeves of kimono are divided into "black sleeves," "color sleeves," "honjin sleeves," and "nakajin sleeves," and so on.

1. The sleeves are relatively short.

2. "Kuro-ryu-sleeve" kimonos are often embellished with delicate floral patterns, and they are dresses for middle-aged women, usually worn on more solemn and solemn occasions such as weddings and banquets.

3. "Sakiori-sleeve" kimonos come in a variety of colors, and the wearer is younger than the wearer of "Kuroiori-sleeve" kimonos, and they are also worn on grand occasions.

4. "Shinsleeve" is a traditional dress for unmarried young Japanese women, which is more luxurious, and is usually worn only to celebrate ceremonies, graduation, and New Year's Day (today, even at these times, very few people wear this type of kimono.) "Shinsleeve" is a long-sleeved kimono. The "shin-sleeve" is a long sleeve, often about 1 meter long, that hangs down to the ankles.

5. There is also a type of kimono called "Sakumochi," which is worn in normal times. Sakumochi" does not have a pattern, but has a color.

Chinese Costume

From ancient times, clothing was an important part of a ruler's way of governing, and when the clothing system was completed, the political order was also completed. In the Chinese tradition, clothing is a part of politics, and its importance far exceeds the status of clothing in modern society.

Social Clothing

The <Lv's Spring and Autumn Annals>, <Shiben>, and the later <Huainanzi> mention that the Yellow Emperor, Hu Cao, or Bo Yu created clothes. From the excavated artifacts, the source of the history of clothing can be traced back to the primitive society in the late Paleolithic period. In the site of Shanding Caveman (about 19,000 years old) in Zhoukoudian, Beijing, one bone needle and 141 pieces of drilled stone, bone, shell and tooth ornaments were found. It was confirmed that simple clothes could be sewn with natural materials such as animal skins at that time. This was the beginning of the history of Chinese clothing culture. About 10,000 years ago, entered the Neolithic Age, the invention of textile technology, clothing materials have been artificially woven cloth and silk, clothing changes in the form of function has also been improved. The cloak-type clothing such as the Guanhou Yi and the Phi Shan clothes have become the typical clothing, and the ornaments have become more and more complicated, and have a significant impact on the formation of the dress system. After the emergence of textiles, the head dress has developed into a stereotypical clothing style, in a fairly long period of time, a very wide range of regions and more ethnic groups in the general application, basically replacing the Paleolithic parts of the clothing, human clothing became the crude type. In addition to the Neolithic Age, there is a generalized type of clothing, but also from some ceramic sculpture relics found to have a crown, boots, headdresses, pendants.

"Shang and Zhou Clothing"

From the Shang Dynasty to the Western Zhou, it was a period in which the upper garment and lower garment form system that differentiated between grades and the system of crowns and dresses, as well as the system of clothing chapters, were gradually established. The materials used for clothing in the Shang Dynasty were mainly leather, leather, silk and hemp. Due to the progress of textile technology, silk and linen fabrics have played an important role. Shang Dynasty people have been able to fine weaving very thin silk, jacquard geometric pattern brocade, qi, and twisted loom of the Luo yarn. Clothing with heavy color. Western Zhou Dynasty, the gradual establishment of the hierarchy, the Zhou Dynasty set up a "Division Clothing", "within the Division Clothing" official position, in charge of the royal family dress. According to the literature and excavated artifacts analysis, China's crown system, initially established in the Xia and Shang Dynasties, to the Zhou Dynasty has been complete and perfect, the turn of the Spring and Autumn and the Warring States period was included in the rule of etiquette. The royal family secretary for the expression of dignity and majesty, in different ceremonial occasions, the top of the crown both to coronet order, wearing clothes with clothes must also use different forms, colors and patterns. From the Zhou Dynasty unearthed humanoid artifacts, clothing decorations, although different, but under the clothes have been clearly defined, laid the basic form of Chinese clothing.

The Costume of the Warring States Period

The great progress of the weaving and embroidery technology in the Spring and Autumn and Warring States Periods made the costume materials more and more fine, and the varieties of the names became more and more numerous. The flower brocade of Xiangyi in Henan Province, and the ice dandy, qi, onyx, and text embroidery of Qilu in Shandong Province were popular throughout the country. The spread of craftsmanship, so that a variety of exquisite clothing and costumes stand out. Spring and Autumn and Warring States period, not only the princes and lords themselves a gorgeous dress, from the ministers are also the Secretary of the foot decorated with pearls and guillotines, waist gold and jade, clothing, fur, crown and shoes, all for the noble. Ancient people wear jade, the degree of respect, and endowed with personality symbols. Influence, the upper class, regardless of men and women, are required to wear a few pieces or groups of beautiful carved jade. Sword, is then the new weapon, the nobles for show courage and self-defense, and must wear a gold embedded jade sword. Leather belt around the waist is also popular with a variety of hooks, compete with each other. Men's and women's hats, more striking, delicate with thin as cicada wing gauze, precious with gold and jade; shape such as overlay cup on the shrug. Shoes, mostly made of small deerskin, or with silk, fine grass woven; winter leather jacket extremely heavy white fox fur, worth thousands of dollars. Women love to use fur set in the cuffs of the edge of the garment made of front, and half of the thin brocade gloves with exposed fingers, all exceptionally beautiful. Spring and Autumn and Warring States period of clothing, the upper class characters of the broad, the lower class of the narrow, has become very different. The deep clothes, which meant to hide the body y, were the casual clothes for the scholarly class at home and the dresses for the common people, common to both men and women. In 307 B.C., King Wu Ling of Zhao issued a decree for the implementation of hu clothing, which facilitated the riding and shooting activities. During the Spring and Autumn and Warring States Periods, clothing styles were unprecedentedly rich and varied, not only in the deep clothes and hu clothes. The musicians wore wind hoods, the dancers had sleeves as long as several feet, and some people often wore owls' horns or magpie-tailed crowns, small-sleeved long dresses and under garments with oblique arm folds. These are all related to the colorful social life.

The Costumes of the Qin and Han Dynasties

Clothing materials during this period were richer than those of the Spring and Autumn and Warring States Periods, and the deep garment was also newly developed. Especially in the Han Dynasty, with the establishment of the mikoshi system, the distinction between the official ranks and grades of clothing also became more strict. The fabrics of Qin and Han clothing were still heavily embroidered. Embroidery patterns mostly have mountain clouds, birds and animals or vine plant patterns, brocade has a variety of complex geometric diamond pattern, as well as woven with the text of the through the width of the pattern. Western Han Dynasty Jianyuan three years (138 BC), Yuan hunting four years (119 BC), Zhang Qian was ordered twice to the Western Regions, opened up China and the Western countries of the land route, thousands of silk source outward transportation, the Wei, Jin, Sui and Tang Dynasty, has not been interrupted, known as the Silk Road. Thus, the Chinese dress culture spread to the world. Since the Qin and Han, deep clothes have some development and change. From the upper level of society in the Eastern Han Dynasty, the robes of the general cut were transferred to the institutionalization. The Qin Dynasty clothing system was not very different from that of the Warring States period, keeping the basic shape of the deep clothes. Western Han men's and women's clothing, still following the form of deep clothing. Regardless of single, Mian, more than the upper garment and the lower garment cut and sewn together as a whole, the upper and lower still do not pass the sewing, do not pass the amplitude; coat inside the middle garment and underwear, and its leadership edge is exposed, and become a stereotyped suits. Underneath, they wore big pants with tight mouths, and maintained the style of "praising clothes and big skirts". The footwear was made of a pair of shoes. The belt was tied around the waist. In the Qin Dynasty, the color of the clothes was still black. In the Han Dynasty, there was a mikoshi system. History books listed more than 20 kinds of dresses, court dresses and regular dresses for the emperor and his ministers. The difference in rank in dress was already very obvious.

"Sui and Tang Clothing"

Sui-Tang period, China from the division and unification, from war and stability, economic and cultural prosperity, the development of clothing, whether the material or clothing style, are showing an unprecedented scene of splendor. Color brocade, is the five colors are ready to weave all kinds of flowers odong.com/wiki/%E5%8D%8A%E8%87%82'> half-arm and collar edge clothing. Special palace brocade, patterned with a pair of pheasants, fighting sheep, Xiangfeng, swimming scales of the shape, chapter color gorgeous. Embroidery, five-color embroidery and gold and silver thread embroidery. Printing and dyeing patterns, multi-color overdyeing and monochrome dyeing. Sui and Tang Dynasty men's crown clothing is mainly characterized by upper-class figures wearing robes, officials wearing turban, people wearing short shirts. Until the Five Dynasties, there was little change. The official clothes of the Son of Heaven and the hundred officials used colors to distinguish their ranks and patterns to indicate their official ranks. Sui and Tang Dynasty women's clothing is rich in fashion, often by the competition for the court women's clothing development to the folk, were copied, and often by the Northwest ethnic influences and distinctive. The most fashionable women's clothing in the Sui and Tang dynasties is 襦裙, that is, a short blouse with a long skirt, skirt waist with silk belt high tie, almost and armpits.

Sui-Tang women were well dressed. From the court spread the "half-arm", which has been long, and later men also wore. At that time, also popular long scarf, the Department of silver flowers or gold and silver powder painted flowers made of tulle, one end fixed in the half-arm of the chest strap, and then draped over the shoulder, twisted between the arms, called Phi Pali. Tang Dynasty women's hair ornaments are diverse, each with a special name. Women's shoes are generally flower shoes, mostly made of embroidered fabrics, colored silk, leather. The Tang people are good at integrating the Northwest minority and Tianzhu, Persia and other foreign cultures, the Tang Zhenguan to Kaiyuan years very popular hu clothing new clothes.

"Song, Liao, Xia, Jin and Yuan"

The Song Dynasty basically retained the style of Han Chinese clothing, Liao, Xixia, Jin and Yuan Dynasty clothing with the Qidan, Danghou, Jin and Mongolia respectively. All national costumes were once again exchanged and fused. The Song Dynasty costumes had three styles, namely, official clothes, casual clothes and old people's clothes. Song Dynasty official clothing fabric to Luo-based, the government because of the old system of the Five Dynasties, every year to give the pro-principal ministers brocade robes, divided into seven Song Dynasty vulture ball pattern brocade robes and other different colors. The official uniform color follows the Tang system, more than three products service purple, more than five products service Zhu, more than seven products service green, more than nine products service green. The official uniform style is roughly close to the late Tang large-sleeved robes, but the first clothes (crown and hat) has been flat winged hat, the name of the straight-footed 幞幞檚, the officials and ministers to serve, become customized. Song dynasty official uniforms and inherited the Tang dynasty chapter clothing of the fish system, qualified to wear purple, scarlet uniforms of officials are required to wear at the waist "fish bag", bag containing gold, silver, copper made of fish, in order to distinguish between the official grade. "Square heart" is also a feature of the court dress, that is, the court dress collar set on the round below the ornaments. Song Dynasty officials public service, uniforms outside of the daily civilian clothes, mainly small-sleeved round-necked shirt and hat with a downward-facing soft winged turban, still Tang style, but the feet were changed to more convenient for the usual living in casual shoes. The representative clothing of the Song dynasty relics were wide robes with large sleeves and large collars, and Dongpo scarves. The robe is edged with dark-colored material to preserve the ancient style. Dongpo scarf for the square tube-shaped high scarf, rumored to be a great writer Su Dongpo created, the revival of the ancient scarf, the Ming Dynasty, the elderly gentry also often wear.

"Ming and Qing Clothing"

The Ming Dynasty was dominated by traditional Han clothing, and the Qing Dynasty was dominated by Manchu clothing. And the costumes of the upper and lower classes of society in both generations were clearly hierarchical. The official clothes of the upper class is a symbol of power, and has always been valued by the ruling class. Since the Tang and Song dynasties, the dragon robe and yellow color has been used exclusively for the royal family. Since the North and South Dynasties, the purple color has been the most expensive. Ming dynasty because of the emperor's surname Zhu, Zhu for the right color, but also because & lt; Analects & gt; there is "evil purple take Zhu also", purple from the abolition of official uniforms. The most distinctive is the "patch" that grade. Patch is a piece of silk about 40 to 50 centimeters square, embroidery on different patterns, and then sewed to the official clothes, chest and back one. Civilian officials with birds, military officials with beasts, each divided into nine classes. Usually wear a round neck robe with clothes length and sleeve size to distinguish identity, the older for the honor. The main first dress of the Ming Dynasty officials followed the Song and Yuan turban and slightly different. The emperor wore a turban with the wings of the hat raised from the back. Officials wore a winged lacquered turban for court dress and a black hat for regular dress. By the granting of the official wife, mother, there are also to pattern, decorated to distinguish the level of the red large-sleeved dresses and various types of Xia Phi. In addition, the upper class women have been wearing high-heeled shoes, and there are in the high bottom, outside the high bottom of the points. Ming Dynasty ordinary people's clothing or long, or short, or shirt, or skirt, basically inherited the old traditions, and the variety is very rich. Dress with color, civilian wives and daughters can only dress purple, green, peach and other colors, so as not to mix with the official color; working masses are only allowed to use brown. General cap, in addition to the old since the Tang and Song dynasty is still popular, Zhu Yuanzhang personally formulated two kinds, issued by the nation, the general public. One is a square barrel-shaped black lacquer gauze cap, called the four sides of the Ping Ding scarf; one is a hemispherical cap synthesized by six pieces, called the six unity cap, meaning the four seas, the world to one. The latter has been handed down, commonly known as melon hat, the Department of black velvet, satin and other made. The Qing dynasty, by violent means to implement shaved hair and easy to dress, according to the custom of Manchu unified men's clothing. Shunzhi nine years (1652), the Qin Ding & lt; service color shoulder ordinance & gt; promulgated, since the abolition of a strong color of the Han Chinese people's crown clothing. Ming Dynasty men were all stored hair in a bun, wearing loose clothing, wearing stockings, shallow shoes; Qing Dynasty, naginata braid, braid down the back of the head, wearing thin horseshoe-sleeved arrows, tight socks, deep boots. But the government and the people dress according to the law is clearly distinguishable.