Traditional Culture Encyclopedia - Traditional virtues - History of Jewelry in the West
History of Jewelry in the West
Jewelry
Jewelry is a costume
ornament worn on the human body.
In Europe 20,000 years ago, in cave paintings.
There are images of people
wearing ornaments, probably made of fish bones,
stones, shells, etc.
Nowadays, the most common ornaments are those made of fish bones, stones, shells, and other materials.
The oldest surviving jewelry is from the Middle Egyptian period (1991-1778), when
Egyptian women wore hair bands, hairpins, necklaces, bracelets, and narrow bands of pearls around their waists.
The only metals used were almost exclusively gold and silver, and the precious
stones were carnelian, amethyst, turquoise, lapis lazuli
stone, feldspar, beryl, and jasper, and blue or green ceramic beads were often
used in place of precious stones.
Gold
beads and silver beads are hollow, held together
in two hemispheres.
Bracelets were made of twisted gold wire and decorated with wife-flower gold
pieces.
The best are the gold pendants,
which are made of narrow pieces of gold that wrap around the edges
to form a beautiful silhouette, and in the center is a gem-set
pattern.
Often on the ring is a sacred beetle,
which is tied to the finger with a small cord.
This was the predecessor of the ring
.
Earrings appeared in the period of the New Dynasty (1573 -
1085 BC).
Some earrings went through small holes in the earlobes, while others were clipped to the ear with a
slit.
At this time there were also finger
ring seals.
Ancient Egyptian culture influenced the island of Crete in the Mediterranean
.
The Cretan-Mycenaean (1800 - 1100 BC) culture on the island also
included jewelry.
Varieties include gold leaf bands, earrings,
ornamental pins, finger rings, necklaces, and pendants.
Mainly decorated with
relief, the subject matter of the circle pattern, spiral,
roses, brown shelves, lions, goats, sphinxes
face and so on.
The motifs are engraved on gold foil and then pasted on
soft materials such as resin.
The spiral pattern may have been made
by bending metal wire and then attaching it to the gold foil and pounding it
into shape.
Around the 9th to 7th centuries BC, Mycenaean
jewelry was influenced by Assyria, for example it used
rosettes.
A grain pattern
also appears.
It was formed by welding small metal balls to a similar
metal plane.
Ancient Greece has a rich jewelry heritage.
The main varieties were crowns, wreaths, earrings and neck
chains.
Wreaths were used for religious processions and also
to reward a person for his or her merits.
The most significant
contribution of Greek craftsmen was the casting of human and animal
figures directly in gold.
Until the 3rd century Greek jewelry
rarely used precious stones, and the color effects were obtained by enameling
techniques.
After the conquest of Greece by the Macedonian king
Alexander the Great in the 3rd century, oriental gemstones
were gradually used in Greek jewelry.
Ancient
Roman jewelry from the 2nd century BC to the 2nd century AD followed the Greek tradition.
The use of gemstones and
glass artificial stones increased.
Earrings
were made with a variety of pendants, even
one in the shape of a wine bottle with two ears, showing
Egyptian and Syrian influences.
Some of the ears
have S-shaped hooks.
The necklace's are figure 8 chains.
Clasped pendants with amulet significance.
Bracelets
became thicker, some were made into a coiled
snake, some were twisted with metal wires on a baseline
.
There are also pearls, green gold, chrysoprase delicate
braided.
In ancient Rome, there was also a type of jeweled embossed
ornamentation known as the 'Cameo'.
It was an oval piece of onyx
that used the different colors of the top and bottom
layers of the stone to distinguish the cameo portion
from the base, such as a white cameo on a black
or brown base.
The jewelry of the Byzantine Empire
built in the 4th century AD, added an oriental
style to the Roman tradition.
Their main contribution was the technique of filigree enameling.
The outline of the design is made of thin strips of metal
surrounded by a metal rim dagger and soldered to the surface, with the center
filled with enamel.
Europe between the 5th and 9th centuries AD was known as the 'Dark Ages' due to the harsh rule of
religion.
Christian elements can be seen in the jewelry of this era, such as the cross, which became an
important pendant.
Gemstones at this time were dedicated to the church
and were less commonly worn.
Circular and ring-shaped
pins were intended to cinch clothing at the neck.
In terms of technology
the 8th to 10th centuries saw the emergence of the 'lost wax
casting' technique. A model was made in wax and a cast was made outside.
The wax was melted and filled with
molten metal, and when it cooled down, the mold was removed and the product was made.
The jewelry is plated with tin or gold and decorated with precious stones or enamel.
The 14th century saw the dawn of the Renaissance in Europe.
As trade between Italy and the East
intensified, the status of precious stones rose.
Women's
dresses became richer and more ornate, requiring a wider range of
styles of jewelry to complement them.
Women wore flower
crowns, tiaras and necklaces, and men wore belts of yellow
gold or enamel.
The wearing of jewelry became a sign of status.
Rings with delicate petal-shaped
bumps.
The heart-shaped brooch is engraved with love statements
exchanged between lovers.
In the 14th century the clustered brooch
developed into a circle of motifs around a large jewel
stone.
In the 15th century, gem craftsmanship was even more
developed.
Gemstone cutting became more sophisticated.
Designs
were influenced by the flamed and vertical Gothic style of architecture, and wall and window panels were miniatureized
into jewelry forms.
The popularity of low-cut dresses led to the need for necklaces and pendants.
And
the wide-sleeved dresses gave way to bracelets, men
wore jewel-encrusted belt clasps, and women's necklaces were hung with hollow lockets that could be opened and closed.
The box was decorated with enameled religious paintings such as the Crucifixion, the Nativity
the Informations, the Madonna, the Angels, etc., and contained a}f
a lover's hair.
Hoods were also popular in the 15th century and
were made of gold or other metals.
Early Renaissance jewelry makers sought to
express the Greco-Roman spirit in their designs.
They had little knowledge of Greco-Roman jewelry archetypes, and therefore made more use of Greco-Roman mythological motifs, such as the Maiden of the Woods, the half-human/half-goat Sandor, and classical columns and
ramparts.
The real link between the Renaissance and ancient Rome is the Roman 'Cameo'
bas-reliefs, which were widely copied in the 14th century.
Italian artists of the Renaissance were generally trained as goldsmiths, making miniature sculptures in enameled gold.
From the middle of the 76th
century, relief sculpture gave way to engraving.
The center of jewelry moved from Italy and France to Austria
and Germany.
Jewelry was increasingly seen as a woman's
exclusive adornment and became more luxurious and elaborate.
Women wore a full range of jewelry, including bracelets,
collar horns, necklaces with pendants, and tiaras.
Pendants
included dragons, seahorses, devils, animals, Biblical
and other mythological subjects, all in gold enameled
with oddly shaped lings
and beads.
Sometimes with square gemstones'
In the 17th century, figurative jewelry ceased to be popular, and the passion for enameled gold shifted
to gemstones.
With the development of cutting techniques, a large number of different cuts were created.
After 1650, the domed stone was rarely used.
Brackets shifted from the natural flower form to the leaf
form.
Funeral jewelry with skeletons and crossbones
were also introduced.
It was a post-Reformation custom to make funeral rings from the deceased's estate
and give them to the deceased's friends and relatives
.
Between the 17th and 18th centuries, interest shifted to appreciating the brilliance of jewelry.
Cutting techniques were perfected, and diamond cutting was invented in
7700, and by the early 18th century a diamond could be cut with up to
58 facets.
Diamonds dominate the precious stones, followed by aqua, and most
by white iron ore.
A set of jewelry line tips includes
earrings, necklaces, bracelets, corsages, and shoe
buckles.
Jewelry is divided into two types: one for use in H
light and one for use in the evening by candlelight
.
The H}a jewelry was women's sash string,
worn on women's wrists, tied with "a string of keys,
money pouches or small ornaments, snuffboxes, pocket watches set with gold and
+: stones, candlelight jewelry was sparkling diamonds
up.
Add} a few emeralds, topazes or rubies.
Begin! It is often said that f; not faceted.
For ancient jade, the word 'faceted' is afraid to be changed to
'disk'.
In the last two decades of the 18th century, there was a Classical Revivalism in British art and
architecture, and it spread
to jewelry design.
Rings, pendants and pocket faces were set with enameled miniatures of mythological or aristocratic figures.
During the Napoleonic period in France, Napoleon's wife, Stéphanie
created a popular style: long ear
rings, tall flower crowns, wide bracelets, flower necklaces
and large belt buckles, a French neo-classical 1:1
style.
In the 19th century, cast-iron
jewelry appeared in Berlin, followed by coal-gold jewelry, which
remained popular throughout the century.
The 19th century was the era of fashion jewelry
.
Typically there was a velvet
knot tied around the neck with ornamental pins.
In the second half of the 19th
century, mass-produced jewelry began to appear in large numbers.
Mass-produced jewelry became a popular commercial
item.
But there were also masters like the Russian Faberzee.
The mainstay of jewelry from the 20th century onwards was costume jewelry.
It is usually a metal frame inlaid with glass
or white iron ore or other imitations.
It is matched with
fashion, the popularity cycle is short, there is
no preservation value, only decorative value.
But
there are a few famous artists involved in jewelry
design, such as Picasso, Dali have designed
modern style jewelry, London and Paris is now
the world's major jewelry production center.
.
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