Traditional Culture Encyclopedia - Traditional virtues - History of Jewelry in the West

History of Jewelry in the West

Jewelry

Jewelry is a costume

ornament worn on the human body.

In Europe 20,000 years ago, in cave paintings.

There are images of people

wearing ornaments, probably made of fish bones,

stones, shells, etc.

Nowadays, the most common ornaments are those made of fish bones, stones, shells, and other materials.

The oldest surviving jewelry is from the Middle Egyptian period (1991-1778), when

Egyptian women wore hair bands, hairpins, necklaces, bracelets, and narrow bands of pearls around their waists.

The only metals used were almost exclusively gold and silver, and the precious

stones were carnelian, amethyst, turquoise, lapis lazuli

stone, feldspar, beryl, and jasper, and blue or green ceramic beads were often

used in place of precious stones.

Gold

beads and silver beads are hollow, held together

in two hemispheres.

Bracelets were made of twisted gold wire and decorated with wife-flower gold

pieces.

The best are the gold pendants,

which are made of narrow pieces of gold that wrap around the edges

to form a beautiful silhouette, and in the center is a gem-set

pattern.

Often on the ring is a sacred beetle,

which is tied to the finger with a small cord.

This was the predecessor of the ring

.

Earrings appeared in the period of the New Dynasty (1573 -

1085 BC).

Some earrings went through small holes in the earlobes, while others were clipped to the ear with a

slit.

At this time there were also finger

ring seals.

Ancient Egyptian culture influenced the island of Crete in the Mediterranean

.

The Cretan-Mycenaean (1800 - 1100 BC) culture on the island also

included jewelry.

Varieties include gold leaf bands, earrings,

ornamental pins, finger rings, necklaces, and pendants.

Mainly decorated with

relief, the subject matter of the circle pattern, spiral,

roses, brown shelves, lions, goats, sphinxes

face and so on.

The motifs are engraved on gold foil and then pasted on

soft materials such as resin.

The spiral pattern may have been made

by bending metal wire and then attaching it to the gold foil and pounding it

into shape.

Around the 9th to 7th centuries BC, Mycenaean

jewelry was influenced by Assyria, for example it used

rosettes.

A grain pattern

also appears.

It was formed by welding small metal balls to a similar

metal plane.

Ancient Greece has a rich jewelry heritage.

The main varieties were crowns, wreaths, earrings and neck

chains.

Wreaths were used for religious processions and also

to reward a person for his or her merits.

The most significant

contribution of Greek craftsmen was the casting of human and animal

figures directly in gold.

Until the 3rd century Greek jewelry

rarely used precious stones, and the color effects were obtained by enameling

techniques.

After the conquest of Greece by the Macedonian king

Alexander the Great in the 3rd century, oriental gemstones

were gradually used in Greek jewelry.

Ancient

Roman jewelry from the 2nd century BC to the 2nd century AD followed the Greek tradition.

The use of gemstones and

glass artificial stones increased.

Earrings

were made with a variety of pendants, even

one in the shape of a wine bottle with two ears, showing

Egyptian and Syrian influences.

Some of the ears

have S-shaped hooks.

The necklace's are figure 8 chains.

Clasped pendants with amulet significance.

Bracelets

became thicker, some were made into a coiled

snake, some were twisted with metal wires on a baseline

.

There are also pearls, green gold, chrysoprase delicate

braided.

In ancient Rome, there was also a type of jeweled embossed

ornamentation known as the 'Cameo'.

It was an oval piece of onyx

that used the different colors of the top and bottom

layers of the stone to distinguish the cameo portion

from the base, such as a white cameo on a black

or brown base.

The jewelry of the Byzantine Empire

built in the 4th century AD, added an oriental

style to the Roman tradition.

Their main contribution was the technique of filigree enameling.

The outline of the design is made of thin strips of metal

surrounded by a metal rim dagger and soldered to the surface, with the center

filled with enamel.

Europe between the 5th and 9th centuries AD was known as the 'Dark Ages' due to the harsh rule of

religion.

Christian elements can be seen in the jewelry of this era, such as the cross, which became an

important pendant.

Gemstones at this time were dedicated to the church

and were less commonly worn.

Circular and ring-shaped

pins were intended to cinch clothing at the neck.

In terms of technology

the 8th to 10th centuries saw the emergence of the 'lost wax

casting' technique. A model was made in wax and a cast was made outside.

The wax was melted and filled with

molten metal, and when it cooled down, the mold was removed and the product was made.

The jewelry is plated with tin or gold and decorated with precious stones or enamel.

The 14th century saw the dawn of the Renaissance in Europe.

As trade between Italy and the East

intensified, the status of precious stones rose.

Women's

dresses became richer and more ornate, requiring a wider range of

styles of jewelry to complement them.

Women wore flower

crowns, tiaras and necklaces, and men wore belts of yellow

gold or enamel.

The wearing of jewelry became a sign of status.

Rings with delicate petal-shaped

bumps.

The heart-shaped brooch is engraved with love statements

exchanged between lovers.

In the 14th century the clustered brooch

developed into a circle of motifs around a large jewel

stone.

In the 15th century, gem craftsmanship was even more

developed.

Gemstone cutting became more sophisticated.

Designs

were influenced by the flamed and vertical Gothic style of architecture, and wall and window panels were miniatureized

into jewelry forms.

The popularity of low-cut dresses led to the need for necklaces and pendants.

And

the wide-sleeved dresses gave way to bracelets, men

wore jewel-encrusted belt clasps, and women's necklaces were hung with hollow lockets that could be opened and closed.

The box was decorated with enameled religious paintings such as the Crucifixion, the Nativity

the Informations, the Madonna, the Angels, etc., and contained a}f

a lover's hair.

Hoods were also popular in the 15th century and

were made of gold or other metals.

Early Renaissance jewelry makers sought to

express the Greco-Roman spirit in their designs.

They had little knowledge of Greco-Roman jewelry archetypes, and therefore made more use of Greco-Roman mythological motifs, such as the Maiden of the Woods, the half-human/half-goat Sandor, and classical columns and

ramparts.

The real link between the Renaissance and ancient Rome is the Roman 'Cameo'

bas-reliefs, which were widely copied in the 14th century.

Italian artists of the Renaissance were generally trained as goldsmiths, making miniature sculptures in enameled gold.

From the middle of the 76th

century, relief sculpture gave way to engraving.

The center of jewelry moved from Italy and France to Austria

and Germany.

Jewelry was increasingly seen as a woman's

exclusive adornment and became more luxurious and elaborate.

Women wore a full range of jewelry, including bracelets,

collar horns, necklaces with pendants, and tiaras.

Pendants

included dragons, seahorses, devils, animals, Biblical

and other mythological subjects, all in gold enameled

with oddly shaped lings

and beads.

Sometimes with square gemstones'

In the 17th century, figurative jewelry ceased to be popular, and the passion for enameled gold shifted

to gemstones.

With the development of cutting techniques, a large number of different cuts were created.

After 1650, the domed stone was rarely used.

Brackets shifted from the natural flower form to the leaf

form.

Funeral jewelry with skeletons and crossbones

were also introduced.

It was a post-Reformation custom to make funeral rings from the deceased's estate

and give them to the deceased's friends and relatives

.

Between the 17th and 18th centuries, interest shifted to appreciating the brilliance of jewelry.

Cutting techniques were perfected, and diamond cutting was invented in

7700, and by the early 18th century a diamond could be cut with up to

58 facets.

Diamonds dominate the precious stones, followed by aqua, and most

by white iron ore.

A set of jewelry line tips includes

earrings, necklaces, bracelets, corsages, and shoe

buckles.

Jewelry is divided into two types: one for use in H

light and one for use in the evening by candlelight

.

The H}a jewelry was women's sash string,

worn on women's wrists, tied with "a string of keys,

money pouches or small ornaments, snuffboxes, pocket watches set with gold and

+: stones, candlelight jewelry was sparkling diamonds

up.

Add} a few emeralds, topazes or rubies.

Begin! It is often said that f; not faceted.

For ancient jade, the word 'faceted' is afraid to be changed to

'disk'.

In the last two decades of the 18th century, there was a Classical Revivalism in British art and

architecture, and it spread

to jewelry design.

Rings, pendants and pocket faces were set with enameled miniatures of mythological or aristocratic figures.

During the Napoleonic period in France, Napoleon's wife, Stéphanie

created a popular style: long ear

rings, tall flower crowns, wide bracelets, flower necklaces

and large belt buckles, a French neo-classical 1:1

style.

In the 19th century, cast-iron

jewelry appeared in Berlin, followed by coal-gold jewelry, which

remained popular throughout the century.

The 19th century was the era of fashion jewelry

.

Typically there was a velvet

knot tied around the neck with ornamental pins.

In the second half of the 19th

century, mass-produced jewelry began to appear in large numbers.

Mass-produced jewelry became a popular commercial

item.

But there were also masters like the Russian Faberzee.

The mainstay of jewelry from the 20th century onwards was costume jewelry.

It is usually a metal frame inlaid with glass

or white iron ore or other imitations.

It is matched with

fashion, the popularity cycle is short, there is

no preservation value, only decorative value.

But

there are a few famous artists involved in jewelry

design, such as Picasso, Dali have designed

modern style jewelry, London and Paris is now

the world's major jewelry production center.

.