Uyghur in Hotan

Aidus Silk is produced in Jiya Township, Lopu County, located in the northwest of Lopu County, on the east bank of the middle and lower reaches of the Yulongkashi River. Ancient Hotan, the transportation hub of the Silk Road South, is an important silk distribution center, is one of the three major silk capitals in the western region. The second and third centuries B.C. Hetian silk trade has flourished, the two Han to Wei Jin and North and South Dynasties period, silk trade is more prosperous, the Tang Dynasty into the heyday. According to the records of the North and South Dynasties period of a group of transit merchants, a transportation of silk more than 4300 pi. A large number of Chinese silk mainly through the Silk Road South to Central Asia, the Middle East until the Mediterranean coastal countries." Shanghu peddlers, day money under the plug", "not end in time and month". Hetian in the silk trade in the history of the position of the long-standing reputation. Tang Dynasty Hotan real estate "Shi silk" is sold to the Central Plains, for the Central Plains dynasty of the princes and emperors to buy.

Anyone who comes to Hotan from abroad almost always says that the Uyghur girls in Hotan are beautiful, with thin, curved eyebrows, bright eyes, high noses and even figures, and then wearing dresses made of "Ait Lai Silk" silk, which makes them look more and more graceful and elegant.

Aitlis is the specialty of Hotan. Hotan is the famous Silk Road silk town, cocoon production reached more than 70% of the total output of the autonomous region. People's Republic of China *** and before the establishment of the country, the raw cocoon raw silk, in addition to some export, basically in the local weaving into Aitlai silk. History has recorded that in the tenth century A.D. ü-Tsang king had brought a large number of Hetian production of "Hu Jin", "West Jin" to the Central Plains for trade transactions. In the Central Plains is very sought after. Although there is no direct basis for the Aitai silk is "Hu Jin", "West Jin". But in the decades since then, the Hotan masses

Islam, Ait Lai silk undoubtedly hit the cultural imprint of Islam, but it is difficult to assert that they are cut off from the traditional inheritance relationship. In fact, or even earlier, in Iran, Turkey and Central Asian countries in the history of the book also has about "Aitlese" records. Therefore, it can be said that Hotan's Aitlai silk has its own traditional characteristics, but also widely absorbed the cultural factors of various countries. In the fifteenth century, Mirza Ababaik captured Hotan. When Mirza Ababaik captured Hotan in the fifteenth century, he forced many skilled craftsmen in Hotan, especially those who made Aitlay silk, to move to Shache. Because he set his capital there, he made the craftsmen of Hotan weave Aitlai silk for him and made them pass on their skills to the people of Shache. In the nineteenth century, this is how it is narrated in Kashgar by A.H Kuropatkin: the reeling industry in Hotan was quite developed, and in addition to Mashruv, they produced Adrias, Bekasav, and Shayi silks. Kashgar and other real estate silk can only meet local needs, and even can not be self-sufficient. Only Hotan silk exports, in 1876 to Central Asia on the export of 160. Here said the Adriatic that is Aitlai. Aitlai silk is not only cherished by Uyghur women in Hotan, but also Uyghur women in the whole Xinjiang like to wear clothes made of Aitlai silk, which is quite popular even in several Central Asian countries, especially Uzbekistan. In Uyghur poems and stories, it has been described that those people with status such as officials, landlords, and Bayi women wore Aitlay silk dresses to attend all kinds of social occasions or "Meshilafu" (singing and dancing gatherings).

Ait Lai silk texture is soft, light and airy, especially for summer clothing. The general width of the fabric is only 40 centimeters. Patterns are long, some are two rooms even, staggered arrangement; some are three parties even, staggered arrangement. Ait Lai silk color is very bright, and the desert edge of the monotonous environment of the colors form a strong contrast, highlighting the Uyghur people on the reality and the future of life and the pursuit of passion. Aitlai silk is basically of four major types, which are divided into black Aitlai, red Aitlai and yellow Aitlai according to their colors, in addition to multi-tone Aitlai. The base color of all kinds of silks is one kind, but it is just right with other colors, with convex line pattern and grain pattern, showy without losing dignity, flowing not steady. The black ayatollah has the longest history of manufacture, and is known as "Andijan ayatollah" in the folklore. This kind of ayteles is mostly made into clothing for middle-aged and elderly women. Andijan is a city in Uzbekistan. Historically, due to the close relationship between Hotan and Central Asia, a large number of Uzbeks once settled in Hotan, and Hotan called them Andijans. To this day, there are still many people in Hotan who add "Anjiang" (Andijan) to their names to indicate that they are of Uzbek descent. Why is black Atele silk called Andijan Atele? Some say that the pattern came from Uzbekistan, some say that the Hotan Aitlai silk was improved by Uzbek craftsmen, and some say that the Andijan people of Hotan wore it more often. Red Aitlay silk, patterned in red, with yellow or white background color. The color is bright and youthful, so it is popular among girls and young women. Yellow Atele silk pattern for yellow, in a variety of background colors under the backdrop of solemn and elegant, showing a rich and noble atmosphere. This kind of Atele is mostly made into clothing for young and middle-aged women. There is also a kind of mixed type, which Uyghur people call Buyliqiman, arranging various base colors in a regular way, or causing strong contrast or showing soothing changes. In addition to these four major types of aitlai, blue aitlai silks and green aitlai silks have appeared in recent years. Among them, Green Aitlai silk is mostly for pre-school children's women's clothing. These new varieties are not yet systematic, some of them are attributed to the above four types according to their color deployment.

Aitrex silk pattern is rich in change, many styles, using plant patterns of flowers, branches and leaves, pandanus apricot, apple, pear and so on. Adoption of ornamental patterns of wooden combs, tassels, earrings, gemstones and so on. The use of tools pattern of wooden hammer, saw, sickle, etc., the use of musical instruments pattern of Rewafuqin, Dutailqin, etc.. There are other fences, cow horns and so on. Various patterns have strong local characteristics of Hotan, which is the artistic reflection of the beauty of Hotan people's life in clothing. In the pattern, melons and fruits, branches and leaves are used more often, showing that Hotan is the hometown of melons and fruits. The patterns of Rewafuqin and Dutarqin are more common, showing the characteristics of Hotan as the hometown of songs and dances. In addition, the ornaments favored by Uyghur women in Hotan are also shown. Some patterns are more intuitive and easy to recognize. Some patterns use strong artistic deformation, which is not so easy to recognize. Patterns are generally arranged from top to bottom in accordance with the rules, such as the petals, fences, a single iter zither, earrings combined into a group, and then with tassels and other patterns on both sides.

A.H Kuropatkin, quoted above, on the Hetian silk narrative, in Hetian "Mashirufu" is a generic term for silk, "Bekasafu" that is, "Baksai wood", refers to the barbed silk, colorful and elegant. Refers to the strip grid silk, color elegant, more made of religious people's lined tabs (long coat) is now rare. Shayi that is white silk. These silk production methods are the same, in Hotan collectively referred to as Aitele. Therefore, it can be assumed that this is the Atele silk varieties of the side.

Hotan most of the county production of Aitlai silk. The most concentrated is in Jiya Township in Lopu County, which is close to the Yulongkashi River, a sericulture producing area and is also considered to be the center of Aitlai silk production. Almost every family in this township weaves Aitlay silk, and many families, when the man marries and the woman chooses to marry, often have to inquire whether the other party will weave Aitlay silk, and how their skills are. after the 1950s, the reeling of silk in Hotan gradually replaced the spinning wheel with machines. But the production of Ait Lai silk raw silk more choose to use the spinning wheel spun out of the raw silk. Making Aitlay silk is also hand-operated. The silk loom is more than one person high, and the production is laborious, requiring the use of both hands and feet. Patterns are made by tie-dyeing. Skilled craftsmen according to the needs of the pattern, the warp threads tied up with corn husks, immersed in mineral and vegetable dyes liquid coloring, according to the graphic arrangement in the loom taut, so that the dyed silk threads have a dark to light color halo, the producer hand holding the shuttle flying in the warp threads strung to and fro. In recent years, although the number of machine-made silk has an absolute advantage, and can also weave the effect of the Aetna silk, but no matter the intuition, texture, feel is difficult to compare with the handmade Aetna. In recent years the market and chemical fiber silk, some people in the plain silk printed and dyed Aitlese patterns, some patterns once washed, they lose color, the price is also cheaper. Folk Atele silk craftsmen strictly abide by the traditional process, meticulous, and thus won the credibility of the market. 1992 Urumqi Border Trade Fair Uygur Miss Ceremony dress uniform with Lopu Jiya township Atele silk production, so that Chinese and foreign merchants marveled at, and have to come to negotiate the order.

Hotan Atele silk is full of bright prospects.