20- Reference of Novel Creation to Costume Materials of Past Dynasties (5) Costume of Song Dynasty (6)

In the early Song Dynasty, women's makeup followed the styles and styles of the late Tang Dynasty and the Five Dynasties, such as inverted eyebrows and split eyebrows, and paid attention to facial makeup.

Thrush ink:

Women use black blocks of various sizes and shapes, which need not be ground when dipped in water.

It is also called "Thrushcross Ink" because its appearance and production process are similar to those used in painting and calligraphy in Mo Ding. As for the method of making thrush ink, Shilin Guangji said: "There is a genuine oil lamp with many wicks rubbed tightly. Put the oil lamp in water and burn it, cover it with a small vessel to condense the smoke and sweep it down as needed. " Soak musk deer with less oil three days in advance, pour it into the smoke and mix well. Ink can exceed paint. One way, rotary shearing sesame oil is particularly good for snuff. "This is called' thrush fragrant pills'.

As far as eyebrow makeup is concerned, slender eyebrows have replaced wide eyebrows and become popular fashion.

Cosmetic powder:

At this time, the cosmetic powder has been made into powder blocks, each with a diameter of about 3 cm. From the Southern Song Dynasty makeup powder unearthed in Fuzhou, Fujian, it can be seen that the makeup powder was made into round, square, quadrilateral, octagonal, sunflower petal-shaped powder blocks with concave and convex patterns such as plum, orchid and lotus.

Face powder is made of gypsum, talc, mussel powder, wax fat, musk deer, spices and motherwort, and is called "Jade Girl peach blossom powder".

Lipstick:

In Song Dynasty, women's lips were generally painted with lipstick and rouge.

Tan halo makeup was popular among women in the Song Dynasty. Tan halo was pale crimson, which was similar to the halo color beside the eyebrows, hence the name.

In Song Dynasty, Su Shi's "Ten Plum Blossoms from Yang" (the second rhyme) No.9: "Jade is light, sandalwood is dizzy as snow and moonlight."

In Song Dynasty, Lu You wrote "Send Peony and Tan De": "Luoyang is in the spring of Zhongzhou, and Tan Halo cymbals [tρng]? Red always wins the flow. " (Sm: Belt)

Attached is a picture of women's makeup steps in Song Dynasty (the net picture is deleted):

Before the Song Dynasty, people used to burn incense.

Traditionally, perfume distilled from flowers is called "flower dew". China people's understanding of flower dew is based on the Arab rose perfume-rose dew.

According to historical records, Rose Dew first landed in China in the Five Dynasties: Rose Water, Flower Dew, and a gourmet country. In the Five Dynasties, fifteen bottles of Puhe powder were given as tribute, which was rare since then. Today, more flowers are soaked after picking and replaced by liquid steaming. Its water is fake and miscellaneous. Try it with a glass bottle, turn it over and count it four times. The one around is real. Its flowers are different from Chinese rose flowers. Zhao, a poet in Song Dynasty, wrote "Rose Water" of "Wu Zhi" in Zhuzhi Ci? Legend has it that this perfume "does not rest for ten days."

Later, there was a domestic perfume, which was made of a flower called "Zhu Luan", added with other spices, distilled at high temperature and made of its distillate, which was cheap and good.

During the Song Dynasty, temporary peace was achieved through important cooperation with the northern nationalities, and the economic development surpassed that of the late Tang Dynasty and the Five Dynasties. Judging from the clothes unearthed from the tombs of the Song Dynasty, although there was a war at that time, court life was still luxurious.

In the early years of the Northern Song Dynasty, the royal guards of honor in the Song Dynasty all wore gorgeous costumes, and later they switched to printing.

There is also a famous engraving and printing artist Li in Luoyang Xianxiangfang, who is called "Hua".

In "Suzhou Textile Name", it is said that there was a medicinal patch founded by Guixing in Anting Town, Jiading, Southern Song Dynasty. "The cloth was dyed with gray medicine; When it is dry, it will turn green and white when the ash medicine is removed. There are figures, flowers and birds, and poems of all colors, which are used as curtains. " Medicinal patch, also known as watering cloth, is the predecessor of folk blue printed cloth.

In Song Dynasty, silk was the main clothing fabric, and the varieties were brocade, brocade, yarn, silk and silk. Chengdu Shu brocade is the most famous brocade in Song Dynasty.

Patterns include flower patterns, geometric patterns, character scene patterns, Hua Niaowen, animal patterns and auspicious patterns.

The main content of costume patterns in Song Dynasty is the theme of flowers and birds. Among them, the overall effect of broken branches and string branches is vivid, natural and harmonious, which is a typical pattern of aesthetic consciousness in Song Dynasty.

Flowers include Ruyi Peony, Hibiscus, heavy lotus and True Red Cherry. Geometrically, there are sunflowers, four golden carvings, big carpets, snowflake carpet roads and so on. The theme of characters is mainly character scenes; The flower-and-bird themes include Zhen Hong Daihua Phoenix, Zhen Hong Baihua Peacock, Double Nest Yunyan, Green and Cao Rui Yunhe. Animal themes include lions, Yunyan, Tianma, goldfish, Peng Hong and Xiangluan. Geometric patterns include turtle pattern, curved water, palindrome, Fang Shengli, ripple, persimmon and so on.

At that time, the costume design was influenced by the flower-and-bird painting in the Academy of Fine Arts, and the pattern modeling tended to be realistic and the composition was tight.

(Excerpted from Wang Ming's A Brief History of China Clothing)