Which is the real Chinese tunic suit?

Sun Yat-sen is not only a revolutionary pioneer who overthrew feudal monarchy and founded democracy, but also a Zhu Walker who advocated new styles, got rid of bad habits and changed customs. He personally designed and advocated the Chinese tunic suit once advocated by the whole country. This is a great innovation in China's clothing history, and it is also a significant and far-reaching clothing reform.

In ancient China, Han people tied their hair on their heads and wore long sleeves. When the Qing soldiers entered the customs, they forced men to shave their hair and braid their hair, and unified their robes and jackets, especially braids, which became a symbol of national oppression and were ridiculed by outsiders as "dolphin tails" and "half monks". Being a foreigner insults the spoken language of China people. Before the Revolution of 1911, a large number of anti-Qing intellectuals returned from studying in Japan, Europe and America, and began to cut off their braids, take off their robes and jackets, and put on western-style hair and suits.

After the success of the Revolution of 1911, Sun Yat-sen took office as interim president and promulgated a series of laws and policies on political, economic and social reform. "Braiding" and "changing clothes" are the most important reforms. Sun Yat-sen called on the people to "wash away the old stains and be the people of the new country" in the order of "All People Cut Braids", and stipulated that all of them should be cut off within 20 days from the date of the order.

How to "change clothes" after cutting petals? Sun Yat-sen thinks that what kind of clothes revolutionaries wear is a big problem, and extensively solicits opinions and discusses them. In the debate, some people still advocate wearing robes and jackets, which is opposed by most people. Because, since the revolution was successful, it is not the general trend to follow the melon-skin hat, robe and mandarin jacket popular during the Qing government's rule in clothing. Sun Yat-sen thinks that robes and jackets are not convenient for life, and it is not cost-effective to cut materials. He does not approve of wearing this kind of clothing. So some revolutionaries studying abroad suggested simply wearing a suit. After hearing this, Zhongshan laughed and said, "In this case, it is tantamount to boycotting domestic products! ?

Finally, Sun Yat-sen put forward his own opinions. He believes: "clothes must be changed where necessary, and people often get help." I hope to have a clothing style that is "suitable for hygiene, convenient to move, economical and practical, and strong in appearance". So Sun Yat-sen decided to make his own clothes. After careful consideration, careful design and consultation, he finally created a set of simple clothes with China national characteristics.

The Zhongshan suit designed by Sun Yat-sen has the advantages of both Chinese and western clothes. On the basis of Guangdong casual wear, it adds a lapel to the straight collar, just like transplanting a shirt collar into a suit. In this way, the coat has the functions of suit coat, lining and stiff collar, and it looks very stiff when worn. At the same time, the three hidden pockets of casual clothes or general suits are changed into four open pockets, which is so "double" and "positive" that it has a sense of balance and symmetry and conforms to the aesthetic point of view of China people. The upper, lower, left and right pockets are all covered with soft covers, and each pocket has a button, which is beautiful and safe, and can also prevent the items in the pocket from being lost. The following two open bags adopt a flexible "piano bag" style, which is designed to facilitate the placement of books, notebooks and other necessities. Such a trivial matter is enough to prove that a great generation is eager to learn and never forgets the virtue of reading at any time. Sun Yat-sen began to design his coat buttons into seven, and later changed them into five for convenience. This is a tunic suit jacket with four pockets and five buttons.

Sun Yat-sen also personally designed Zhongshan suit pants with reference to the style of suit pants: the front seam is hidden and buttoned; Put a big dark bag on the left and right sides; There is a small hidden pocket in the right front, commonly known as the watch pocket, which can also be used to hide things. This kind of trousers is very convenient to wear, and the trouser pocket can also be used to hold necessities. In addition, the waist of the trouser pocket is wrinkled, and the turn of the trouser leg is also different from other clothes, which has become one of the characteristics of the Zhongshan suit.

Sun Yat-sen personally designed new clothes and personally took the lead in wearing them on various occasions. Because this kind of clothing has many advantages, mainly beautiful and generous. You can use high-grade cloth or ordinary cloth. It can be used as a dress or as a daily service. Therefore, it is very popular with the masses and is called "Zhongshan suit". Later, after Sun Yat-sen's vigorous advocacy and promotion, he wore a "Zhongshan suit" for a while, which was highly respected and popular throughout the country.

After liberation, with the development of textile and garment industry in China, wearing tunic suit became more and more popular. 1984 New Year's Day's "China 83-style police uniform" is mainly based on this Chinese tunic suit with China national characteristics.

The Zhongshan suit was named after Mr. Wang who put it on first.

When the Kuomintang Constitution was formulated in the Republic of China 18, it was stipulated that all civil servants at a certain level should wear Chinese tunic suits when they were sworn in as a sign.

Following Mr. Wang's law, tunic suit and cheongsam have become the representatives of men's and women's clothing in China.

Shape: vertical lapel, double lapel, five buttons on the front, four patch pocket, and three buttons on the cuff. The backboard is not broken.

These forms are actually exquisite and meaningful according to the etiquette of the Zhou Dynasty in the Book of Changes.

First, the four pockets of the predecessor represent the four dimensions of the country (courtesy, justice, honesty and shame).

Secondly, the five keys of access control are different from the separation of powers (administrative, legislative, judicial, censorship and supervision) in the west.

Third, the three buttons on the cuff represent the Three People's Principles (nationality, civil rights and people's livelihood).

Fourth, the unbreakable back symbolizes the great righteousness of peaceful reunification of the country.

The origin of Zhongshan suit

Zhongshan suit is internationally known as the representative costume of men's wear in China.

When Dr. Sun Yat-sen lived in Japan, he saw that the clothes worn by Japanese students were simple, convenient, dexterous and generous, so he transformed the collar and pockets of this kind of student clothes into a single stand collar, with nine buttons on the front door and four open pockets on the left and right, exposing the pockets, a strap at the back and a belt at the middle. This is the earliest Zhongshan suit.

After the Revolution of 1911, there was a debate about what clothes revolutionaries should wear. Sun Yat-sen advocated wearing Guangdong casual clothes and changing the straight collar to lapel. According to Sun Yat-sen's suggestion, the tailor designed a lapel coat with four pockets. Sun Yat-sen took the lead in wearing it himself. So people call this kind of clothing "Zhongshan suit".