Ming dynasty clothes

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After Mongolian rule in Yuan Dynasty, the tradition of Han nationality was restored in Ming Dynasty, and the clothing system was re-established by Zhu Yuanzhang, the founder of Ming Dynasty. Many popular male hairstyles in Ming Dynasty were initiated by Ming Taizu. For example, "net towel" symbolizes the completeness of national laws and regulations, "square towel" symbolizes national peace, and "melon skin hat" is almost regarded as a typical hat of China by modern westerners.

In the Ming dynasty, the most prominent feature of clothing development was that the buttons on the front replaced the knots for thousands of years. But buttons didn't start in the Ming Dynasty, and the form of nailing buttons can be seen from the waistline of knitting coats in the Yuan Dynasty. The use of buttons is also a change, reflecting the progress of the times.

Clothing characteristics

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Compared with the Tang suit, the Ming suit is obviously inverted in the proportion of dresses, from the short coat to the long hem, the coat is gradually lengthened and the length of the exposed skirt is shortened. The collar has also changed from a pair of lapels in the Song Dynasty to a round neck. In the Ming Dynasty, the blouse was narrow-sleeved and three-collared, more than three feet long, revealing a skirt of two or three inches, which was called "big-sleeved round neck corolla skirt coat". At that time, a new style was popular in Yangzhou: blouses were 2' 8 "long, sleeves were 1 2" wide, sleeves were inlaid with splendid flowers, and mink fox skin was inlaid in winter. At the beginning of the Ming Dynasty, the skirt was light in color; During the Chongzhen period, white skirts were advocated. This skirt has an embroidered edge of one or two inches. At the beginning of the Ming Dynasty, the skirt width was six, and it developed into eight or ten at the end of the Ming Dynasty. Skirt pleats are very popular, with thin pleats and large pleats. Folding decoration is very particular. There is a striped skirt, each of which is made of satin of the same color. Each piece of colored satin is embroidered with flowers and birds, and the edge of the belt is inlaid with gold thread, which can become an independent strip. Several such colored stripes are spliced on the belt to form a striped skirt, so it is named "phoenix tail skirt". Some also hand-made the whole piece of satin into fine pleats and named it "pleated skirt". A 24% off skirt, named "Jade Skirt".

In the Ming Dynasty, there was a special hairpin named "Bi Xia" because its shape was as beautiful as rosy clouds. This scorpion appeared in the Southern and Northern Dynasties and got its name in the Sui and Tang Dynasties. In the Song Dynasty, it was included in the formal attire. It was widely used in the Ming Dynasty, and its shape was like a long colorful hanging belt. Each lower bar is 3 inches wide and 5 feet 7 inches long. Take it around your neck and hang it on your chest. Because there is a gold or jade pendant hanging at the lower end, it looks more noble.

Most of the materials preserved in ancient times are the dress images of court ladies. When a maid wears a dress, the use of colors and patterns is regular. Generally, when you wear a gown on a big sleeve shirt with a red background, you should embroider the gown with dark cyan. The difference of grades is mainly manifested in the ornamentation, as listed below.

In the first and second products, the cluster brocade used by famous women to post embroidery (that is, long-tailed pheasant).

Third, the fourth product, a celebrity post, embroidered Xia Yun peacock pattern with gold.

Five, the product life women post embroidery Xia Yun Yuanyang pattern.

Six or seven products, famous women practice magpie tattoo cloud under the iron.

Eight, nine products, ladies post with embroidery wrapped patterns.

In the Ming Dynasty, the patterns of Xunzi were basically the same as those of Bi Xia except that eight or nine kinds of ladies-in-waiting used group flowers instead of tied branches. In the Ming Dynasty, Xunzi noodles were widely used. There are two kinds according to identity; The lapels used by nobles are in the form of leaders, and they are double-breasted in courtesy occasions; As a uniform, civilians take the form of straight collar and double-breasted small sleeve.

There is also a collarless double-breasted vest in Yuan Dynasty, also known as "Gaby", which is a special costume for the queen in the court. Later, it was gradually introduced to the people, expanding the scope of use. Gaby prevailed in the middle of Ming Dynasty and was mainly favored by young women. From the formal point of view, this kind of "gabi" is related to the half arm in Sui and Tang Dynasties, and the vest that appeared after the Qing Dynasty is the deformation of this kind of gabi.

Another feature of Ming-style clothing is that it is decorated with beautiful ornaments on the front, which is very eye-catching. They are all kinds of decorations made of gold, pearls, jade and other materials. Among them, the one hanging on the chest is called "falling collar"; The one tied in front is called "seven things"; Those who walk noisily are called "no walking", and these accessories are collectively called "miscellaneous accessories". Another special ornament is a gold chain with four small objects connected by rings: tweezers (an iron gadget with one end fixed and the other open, called "hair clippers"), toothpicks (for picking teeth), ear scoops (for digging ears) and knives, all of which are practical products for women's lives.

Ming Hui Dian is an official book of laws and regulations in Ming Dynasty, in which it is recorded that the materials used for aristocratic women's dresses are "all kinds of silk and fine silk yarns", while the materials used for civilian women's dresses are restricted. Even for dresses, purple coarse cloth (that is, "ochre") and gold embroidery are prohibited, and robes are only limited to light colors such as purple, green and pink, and it is forbidden to use them. In the 14th year of Hongwu in Ming Dynasty, it was also stipulated that merchants' houses could only use silk, and farmers could use it? Yarn and silk.

Men's wear in Ming Dynasty is represented by square scarf and round neck, and the clothes worn by Confucian scholars are very similar to those of Peking Opera literati on the stage today. It is characterized by wide sleeves, soap (black) edges, blue round neck and soft towel straps. Porters and porters wear blue shirts and trousers, long towels, wide coats and straw sandals. The official dress is a satin round neck robe and a satin coat. This robe is one inch from the ground, the sleeves are too long, the sleeves are one foot wide and the cuffs are nine inches wide. The red shoes are typical.

Shortly after the establishment of the Ming Dynasty, Khufu was banned, the dress code of the Tang Dynasty was restored, and the legal department and the formal department could go hand in hand again. The Ministry of Justice is basically the same as that of the Tang Dynasty, except that the golden fairy crown was changed to Guan Liang, and the crown style of loyalty, tranquility and harmony was added. Officials wear their work and round neck robes. In addition to the color regulations, the official uniforms are also decorated with patches on the chest and back, and different embroidery patterns indicate different levels of officials. Not only that, officials' belts also have different textures due to different grades. Therefore, the clothing characteristics of the Ming Dynasty are mainly reflected in the strict restrictions on grades. Scholars often keep their hair straight or drag it straight and wear towels. Civilians wear short coats, small hats or net towels. There are many styles of women's hair bun in Ming Dynasty, and they often tie a bag on their forehead, which is called "covering their eyebrows". The dress is similar to Song and Yuan Dynasties, but the underwear is a small round neck with buttons around the neck. The dress is long, decorated with gold pendant and cloud shoulder armor (big vest).

Zhu Yuanzhang unified the world, and Hanfu was generally restored in the Ming Dynasty. After absorbing the habits of the Hu people in the Tang Dynasty, Hanfu developed.

In the men's wear of the Ming Dynasty, most adults wore long, wide and straight clothes with green cloth and square flat towels on their heads, while ordinary people wore short coats and headscarves.

At this time, a small hat with six petals and eight petals sewn together appeared, which looked like a watermelon cut in half. It was first worn by servants, but later it became popular because it was convenient to wear. This is the predecessor of the "melon hat" in the Qing Dynasty.

Most of the ladies in the Ming Dynasty wore robes with big red sleeves, while most women could only wear pink, purple and green and some light colors. Ping wears a shirt and a long skirt every day with a ribbon around her waist. Skirts are very wide, and there are many styles, such as pleated skirts, phoenix-tailed skirts and yuet skirts.

Menfu clothing

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Coronation: Since the Song Dynasty, the emperor wore almost only one coronation suit.

Hanbok: There are Tian Tong's crown clothes, leather clothes, Hanbok and so on.

Public service: the official service of 100 officials. Everyone uses it.

Uniforms: Restore the uniforms of the Tang and Song Dynasties.

Nvfu clothing

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Clothing:

Clothing: abridged for the Queen, visited temples and attended court meetings.

Zhai Yi: This is the Queen's second dress.

Dress: a big dress for an official or a woman.

Beizi in Ming dynasty

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Women's wear in Ming Dynasty mainly includes shirts, coats, gowns, back pockets, bibs and skirts. Most of the basic styles of clothes were imitated from the Tang and Song Dynasties, and they were generally right-handed, which restored the customs of the Han nationality. Among them, Bi Xia, Beizi and Gaby are double-breasted and split left and right. Adult women's clothing, with the changes of family and identity, has a variety of different shapes. Ordinary women's clothes are relatively simple, mainly including skirts, backs, coats, shoulders and robes. In Ming dynasty, there were wide sleeves and narrow sleeves. Wide sleeve back, only on the skirt, decorated with lace, collar all the way to the hem, narrow sleeves at the back, decorative lace on cuffs and collar, and lace on the collar only to the chest.

Gaby in Ming Dynasty

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Women's wear in Ming Dynasty mainly includes shirts, coats, gowns, back pockets, bibs and skirts. Most of the basic styles of clothes were imitated from the Tang and Song Dynasties, and they were generally right-handed, which restored the customs of the Han nationality. Gaby's name only appeared after the Song and Yuan Dynasties, but the basic style of this kind of clothing already exists. The armor is sleeveless with double-breasted buttons and split left and right. The semi-weapons in Sui and Tang Dynasties had a certain relationship with Gaby. In the Ming Dynasty, Gaby was mainly worn by young women and was popular among ordinary wives, daughters and handmaiden. In the Qing Dynasty, this kind of clothing became more popular and constantly changing, and later vests were also processed and reformed on this basis.

Official uniform

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Wearing a black hat and mending clothes are the main costumes of officials in Ming Dynasty, and officials distinguish them by mending clothes. This kind of robe is the main clothing style of men in Ming Dynasty, which can be worn not only by bureaucrats but also by ordinary people, but with different colors. The collar clothes worn by ordinary people must avoid dark black, purple, green, willow yellow, turmeric and bright yellow, while others such as blue and ochre are not restricted, commonly known as "variegated collar clothes". Twenty-five years after the founding of the Ming Dynasty, the court made new regulations on official uniforms. All civil and military officials, regardless of rank, must put patches on the chest and back of the robe, with birds for civil servants and beasts for military officers to show the difference.

Official clothes

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The costumes of civil and military officials in the Ming Dynasty mainly include court clothes, sacrificial clothes, public clothes and regular clothes. Kirin robe is the official's royal dress. Its clothing features a large front, diagonal collar and loose sleeves, and the front waist is covered with wrinkles. Embroidered patterns, in addition to the chest and back group, are also distributed at the upper end of the rotator cuff and under the waist (a horizontal bar). In addition, a wide edge made of natural color was sewn under the left and right ribs, which was called "pendulum" at that time. Liu Ruoyu, the eunuch of the Ming Dynasty, described this kind of clothing in his book Proceedings. He said: "It has a continuous back, but it has a pendulum on both sides, two sections in front and a horse face fold under it, starting from both sides." According to the regulations, the materials and patterns used in this kind of clothing have a certain system. "History of Ming Dynasty, Yu Fu Zhi" said: In the thirteenth year of Zheng De, "I gave the minister red silk to store yarn. Its clothing color, bullfighting one product, flying fish two products, python three products, Kirin four or five products, tiger six or seven products; Hanlin technology is not limited to achievements; However, Cao's five products are not harmonious. " The clothes in this painting are embroidered with unicorn patterns. Kirin is an animal in ancient legend, which looks like a deer, with scales, horseshoes and horns. Later generations regarded it as a symbol of good luck and widely used in the decoration of various utensils. The image of Kirin has also undergone some changes. The head is painted as a faucet with two horns, and the tail is painted as a lion's tail. In the Ming Dynasty, it seems that the official dress of embroidered Kirin is not limited to four or five products, but can also be worn by a Royal Guards with special duties.

The emperor's secret service

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The uniform, also called the wing crown, is covered with black gauze and folded with towels. The style is vertical collar, narrow sleeves, embroidered with golden dragon patterns on the front and back and shoulders, and jade leather boots. This suit has many uses. The official robes of the Ming emperor are yellow silk, embroidered dragon, lent text and twelve chapters. From ancient times to the Ming Dynasty, the dragon pattern changed its energy countless times. Generally speaking, the dragon patterns in the pre-Qin period are relatively simple and rough, and most of them have no limbs and claws, similar to reptiles. In Qin and Han dynasties, dragon patterns were mostly animal-shaped, with intact limbs and claws, but without scales. They are often painted as walking patterns, giving people an illusory feeling. The image of the dragon in Ming Dynasty is more perfect, which concentrates the local characteristics of various animals, such as head like a bull's head, body like a snake, horns like antlers, eyes like shrimp's eyes, nose like a lion's nose, mouth like a donkey's mouth, ears like cat's ears, claws like eagle's claws and tail like a fish's tail. The structure and organization of the pattern are also very distinctive. In addition to the traditional dragon walking and Yunlong, there are other names such as Tuanlong, Zheng Long, Zuolong, Ascending Dragon and Descending Dragon. Among the dragons embroidered on clothes in this picture, there are two kinds of dragons: ascending dragon and descending dragon.

Huanghou clothing

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Women's wear in Ming Dynasty mainly includes shirts, coats, gowns, back pockets, bibs and skirts. Most of the basic styles of clothes were imitated from the Tang and Song Dynasties, and they were generally right-handed, which restored the customs of the Han nationality. There are strict regulations on the clothes worn by married women, which are generally divided into formal clothes and regular clothes. The queen usually wears a Dai Long rockhopper and a long-sleeved red coat with a robe, a long red dress and a red lapel. The first dress is decorated with dragons and phoenixes, and the clothes are embroidered with golden dragons and phoenixes.

The rockhopper is a kind of ceremonial crown with barbed wire as the tire, decorated with a small emerald phoenix and a jewelry tassel. As early as the Qin and Han Dynasties, it has become the prescribed dress of the Empress Dowager, Empress Dowager and Empress. There are two kinds of crowns in Ming dynasty, one is worn by empresses, and the crown is decorated with dragons besides phoenixes. The other is the colorful crown worn by ordinary women, which is not decorated with dragons and phoenixes, but only with beaded flowers, but also called rockhopper.

Ming dynasty armor

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In the Ming Dynasty, there was a kind of fat coat for sergeant's clothing, which was made of "knee-length, narrow sleeves and inner cotton" and was red in color, so it was also called "red fat coat". Knights ride horses in double-breasted clothes. Battlefield is mostly made of copper and iron, and leather is rarely used. The armor worn by the general is also made of copper and iron, and the shape of the armor plate is mostly "mountain", which is accurate and light to wear. Soldiers wear chain mail, iron mesh skirt pants and iron mesh boots below the waist.

academic dress

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Like other officials, T-shirts with big sleeves in the Ming Dynasty were worn by Confucian scholars and had a detailed system. For example, "A health worker? Jade cloth silk shirt with wide sleeves and soap edges, soft towel and soap strips hanging down. Those who are supervised will not change their clothes. " A suit of scribes' clothes unearthed from Ming Tombs in Yangzhou, Jiangsu Province. At that time, it was called "straight" or "straight", and scholars in the Confucian scholars often wore this kind of clothing.

Yan skirt in Ming dynasty

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In the Ming Dynasty, there was no difference between upper and lower skirts, but among young women, a short waist skirt was often added to facilitate activities, and some maids and maids also liked this kind of dress. The coat is a stand-up collar and a long-sleeved coat. The skirt was light in color at first, although it had patterns, but it was not obvious. By the early years of Chongzhen, skirts were mostly plain white, and even if there were embroidery patterns, only a lace was decorated one or two inches below the skirt as a presser foot. At the beginning of the skirt, there were six pieces, that is, the so-called "skirt dragging six pieces of Xiangjiang River water"; After using it for eight times, there are many fine wrinkles at the waist, and the lines are like water lines. By the end of the Ming dynasty, the decoration of skirts became more and more exquisite, and the number of skirts increased to ten. The pleats at the waist are getting denser and denser, and each pleat has a color. The breeze blows, and the color is like a moonlight skirt, so it is called a "moonlight skirt".

Mingshui tianyi

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Paddy field dress in Ming Dynasty was a common women's dress. It is a kind of clothing made of various tapestries, which looks like a monk's cassock. It is named after the color interweaving of the whole garment fabric, which looks like a paddy field. It has a special effect that other clothes do not have, and it is simple and unique, so it won the universal love of women in the Ming and Qing Dynasties. It is said that some people in the Tang Dynasty used this method to make clothes, and there is a description of "cutting rice fields" in Wang Wei's poems. At first, the production of paddy field clothes paid more attention to symmetry. Cut all kinds of brocade materials into rectangles in advance, and then arrange and sew the clothes regularly. Then it became less rigid. Brocade materials vary in size, unevenness and shape, which are very similar to the "patchwork clothes" (also known as rich clothes) on the stage.