Traditional Culture Encyclopedia - Traditional virtues - In the late Qing and early Republican eras, what kind of jewelry did women's heads and faces refer to? Please help me to answer this question with the help of educated people.

In the late Qing and early Republican eras, what kind of jewelry did women's heads and faces refer to? Please help me to answer this question with the help of educated people.

The late Qing and early Republican era was an important historical period of great change in Chinese society. As a result of extensive exchanges between the Manchu and Chinese dress culture, the introduction of Western dress culture and by the influence of social, political, economic and cultural development and progress, the late Qing Dynasty and the beginning of the Yanzhao region of the dress, in succession on the basis of the previous dress civilization, but also showed a diversified development trend, the content of a more colorful and varied.

In the early Qing Dynasty, robes and coats were the main part of Yanzhao men's clothing, often used as dresses. In addition, more commonly used is plainclothes, generally have a long coat, small jacket, pants, waist, socks, shoes, hats and so on. Since the end of the Qing Dynasty, men's dress has changed significantly. In addition to the original dresses continuing to be worn, Western-style dresses also appeared and began to be popular among men in general. Chinese and Western combination of Zhongshan suit in the Republic of China is more popular after a while. Western-style shoes also began to be favored by young people, generally cowhide or sheepskin, made of Western law, black or yellow, can be worn in all seasons. Hats also appeared some new products, such as leather flat top crown, wool four seasons mixed hat. In the style of clothing, the end of the Qing Dynasty, men's robes and shirts are narrow-sleeved long body, the waistcoat from the lapel to the lapel, and very short, shoes are worn without a face. Straw hats around the big become small, leather hats also from the rolled brim type to Turkish style, no brim; the past eighteen pan straw hats, limited to peasants to wear, the rest of them are wearing a foreign-style small straw hats, melon-skin hats are also less than the former Qing Dynasty.

Women's clothing in the Qing Dynasty, although to a certain extent absorbed the characteristics of Manchu clothing, but the main body is still along the Ming system, rich in traditional Chinese clothing features. Women's clothing in the Qing Dynasty was more colorful than men's clothing, generally scarves, capes, undershirts, skirts, vests, shirts, jackets, pants, waist, breasts, belts, gloves, handkerchiefs, buns, headdresses and so on. Among them, the skirt is the most common and important. Women's clothing can also be divided into two categories: dresses and regular clothes. Gowns are mainly cloaks, skirts and so on. Regular clothes are mainly long coat, jacket, pants, waist, pants belt, shoes, headdress and so on. Since the end of the Qing Dynasty, women's clothing changes are more obvious, when men's clothing in robes and coats in addition to the popular suits, suits and other short clothing, women's clothing is also in the long clothes, skirts in addition to the rise of short clothes, pants and cheongsam. In terms of style, the change is even more obvious. Especially at the beginning of the civil war, women's makeup "suddenly changed, cut their hair and put their feet, Fu light powder and not apply Zhu, head not hanging silk, ear not wear ring, color is still plain. The shape of the wide and narrow no fixed style". In order to show the beauty of curves, wide cheongsam also became thin and narrow tight, "breasts and hips appear, the wind fluttering skirt and knee meat exposed. Farmer's women wore half jacket and black skirt, while poor women wore only short clothes and long pants. In terms of hairstyle and jewelry, ordinary women do not cut their hair, do not wear hats, do not wear scarves, and are mostly plain, while young women in the city mostly cut their hair. Hair styles are varied, and buns are mostly flat and Suzhou pretty round. New hairstyles generally have a forehead with a sea, such as Japanese women. Shoes, with the exception of young girls' feet, changed from high heels to flat soles. The colors of the dresses were colorful and the materials used became more and more luxurious.

In the late Qing Dynasty and early Republic of China, the changes in Yanzhao's costumes were mainly characterized by the following aspects:

1. With the breaking down of the hierarchical system, the costumes showed diversity and versatility. The ruler of the Qing Dynasty attached great importance to the crown and costume system, the provisions of the dress has a strict style, color, texture restrictions, what is permitted, what is prohibited, the content is quite trivial. Its purpose is to play a clear hierarchy, determine the role of inferiority and superiority. As for the "Republic of China's restoration, the world **** and, inside and outside the palace, all the former Qing dynasty officials and robes and coats, complementary clothing, feather tops, beads, all bundled up on a high shelf". On the other hand, "suits East, Han full suit, everything, pang to unspeakable". "There are cut hair wearing a long shirt and a foreign hat, there are bald head wearing a foreign dress, which is cut hair together. What about those who don't cut their hair? Most of them don't braid their hair, and there are buns combed in front like a flower or a butterfly, and there are also buns combed on the top of the head, on the sides, and at the back, and there are thousands of styles." Huai'an County costume "hundreds of years, no major changes. In recent decades, due to the influence of the outside world, the decoration suddenly changed ...... "dress in the incongruous, unpredictable, dazzling phenomenon, in fact, contains a typical feature of the times, both reflecting the people from the hierarchical feudal dress system liberated, to express their own It reflects that after people were liberated from the hierarchical feudal dress system, they wanted to express their aesthetic interests and tried to show their independent personalities through the diversity and fashion of their costumes; it also shows that when the old and the new were changing, the old tradition and authority were broken, and the new order and authority were not yet formed, people had a sense of loss in their psyche.

2. The new machine textile fabrics are becoming more and more essential to people's lives. Like the rest of the country, Yanzhao traditional handmade cotton fabrics, silk fabrics heavy in warmth, loose, most can not be used for the production of raw materials to emphasize the flat, straight suit. The newer woven fabrics from the West, such as tweed, woolen tweed, silk, and foreign cloth, in addition to being able to make western-style clothes, basically have the advantages of traditional Chinese clothing materials, and they are affordable. So people are interested in western-style clothes at the same time, the modern machine technology production of clothing is also more and more favorite. Shunyi County, "since the Gengzi change in law, emulate foreign countries, clothing cloth with foreign goods or patriotic cloth, foreign kudzu and woolen pass through the territory. Down to the toilers and peddlers bare-bodied robes, winter wear leather, tweed cap". Xianghe County "to the use of soil cloth, home machine. Since the importation of foreign cloth, beautiful and inexpensive, and compete to buy and use. Home machine soil cloth, then not visible. The cloth industry is very prosperous, and it is also woven with foreign threads. Hemp material is full of bright color, rich and poor households, mostly like to use it." In Xinhe County, "farmers' clothes were mostly made of foreign cloth. The number of people who use tweed as clothing is also increasing." Xushui County, "in recent decades, foreign cloth is also quite popular". This fully reflects the people of Yanzhao since modern times to the Western material civilization and the pursuit of, but also reflects the change in people's consumer attitudes, they are no longer satisfied with the existing standard of living, but in the continuous pursuit of a higher standard of enjoyment and aesthetic taste.

3. The change of dress has obvious regional and class nature. Due to the unevenness of political, economic and cultural development, the change of dress has obvious regional differences. The changes in the countryside are far less than in the towns, and the towns are far less than in the metropolis. The change goes from the metropolis to the towns, and from the towns to the countryside. The metropolis is so different from the towns and villages that it cannot be compared with them. There are also great differences between villages, mainly due to the differences in the natural conditions, level of economic development and cultural traditions of different regions. In a class society, differences in the material living standards of various classes are always present. Since modern times, with the intensification of social changes, this difference between classes has been expanding. The difference between the rich and the poor is also very obvious when it comes to clothing. For example, in the quality of clothing materials, since modern times, the rich families have used foreign cloth, rayon, hemp, wool, velvet and silk and other expensive clothing materials, but the peasants, handicraftsmen are still using the traditional home weaving cloth, only practical, not to speak of the aesthetic and fashionable. In the types and styles of clothing, the difference between the rich and the poor is also obvious, such as in Maguxian "men and women poor people, only short clothes, rich people in addition to short clothes, summer shirts, winter robes, coats". Rich women or women, not only colorful clothes, new styles, and jewelry, gold, silver, jade, everything, while the poor women not only have no ornaments, even the clothes are very simple, very few colorful into the clothes. However, with the changes in modern material life, dress, follow the new style, the pursuit of fashion, Western customs gradually dyeing, from the metropolis to the towns, from the towns and the countryside, in response to the change, this trend has, after all, shown the beginning of the trend.