How to repair a broken hot and cold water faucet in the sink?

No matter what kind of appearance a push faucet has, whether it has two separate handles for hot and cold water or only one handle that controls both hot and cold water, it works according to certain basic principles. Here's how to take apart a push-button faucet and fix a drip:

Tools needed: Use these tools for a push-button faucet - a screwdriver, penetrating lubricant, carp pliers or an adjustable wrench, and its pad to be replaced.

Step 1: Turn off the water supply and remove the small screws above or behind the faucet handle to remove the handle that secures it to the body of the faucet. Some of the screws are hidden under metal buttons, plastic buttons or plastic pieces that snap or screw into the handles. Simply open the button and you will see the handle screws mounted at the top. If necessary, use some penetrating lubricant like the WD-40 size to loosen the screws

Step 2: Remove the handle and look at the faucet's components. Remove the caulking nut with large carp pliers or an adjustable wrench, being careful not to leave scratches on the metal. Rotate the spool or shaft in the same direction as you rotated it when you turned on the faucet to unscrew them.

Step 3: Remove the screws holding the washer in place. If necessary, use penetrating lubricant to loosen the screws. Inspect the screws and spool and replace with new ones if damaged.

Step 4: Replace the old washer with a new, identical one. A new washer that matches the old one almost exactly will generally keep the faucet from dripping. You'll also want to note whether the old washer has a beveled surface or is flat, and replace it with the same new washer. Washers designed for cold water only will expand dramatically when hot water flows through them, clogging the spout and slowing the flow of hot water. Some gaskets will work in both hot and cold water, but you'll want to make sure the gasket you buy for replacement is identical to the original.

Step 5: Secure the new washer to the spool, then reattach the parts in the faucet. Rotate the spool in a clockwise direction. Once the spool is in place, put the caulking nut back on. Be careful not to let the wrench leave scratches on the metal.

Step 6: Reinstall the handle and put the button or disk back on. Turn the water supply back on and check for any remaining leaks.

Two: Faucet Seat:

If your faucet is still dripping after you change a washer, there's a chance the faucet seat is at fault. A damaged washer may have caused the faucet seat to become uneven by wear on the metal spool, or deposits of chemicals in the water may have formed a residue, which prevents the washer from being fully compressed against the seat.

How to fix a broken faucet seat: You can, of course, replace the entire faucet. Another option is to replace just the faucet seat. Removing the old seat is a simple matter if you have the right tool - called a seat loosening wrench. Insert the seat loosening wrench into the seat and wrench it in a counterclockwise direction. Once you have the old seat off, make sure the new seat you buy is identical to the original. If the seat can't be removed, insert a seat sleeve that slides into place on the old seat and provides a seal. Two types of seat grinders or sanders that can resurface worn seats.

Another option is to use a seat lapper or sander, which is an inexpensive tool that can resurface worn seats. Be careful not to take too long or use too much force when using this tool, as the valve seat is made of soft metal and you can easily wear it off too much.

To use the grinder, first remove the faucet cartridge and insert the seat grinder down into the seat in the faucet body. Rotate the tool clockwise several times with moderate force. Then use a cloth to wipe off any metal shavings that fall from the valve seat.

Third, the seal of the faucet:

Dripping occurs when the faucet is turned off; leaking occurs when water flows through the faucet. If you see water gushing out from around the handle, your faucet is leaking; the first thing to do is to make sure the faucet caulking nut is tight, but be careful not to scratch the nut with pliers or a wrench.

Here are the tools you'll need to replace the faucet seal: an adjustable wrench, the replacement faucet seal, and petroleum jelly.

If it turns out that the cause of the leak isn't a loose nut, then you'll want to replace the seal. A faucet seal can be a tightly packed piece of sealing consisting of one or more O-shaped rubber rings, or it can be something like a thin rope or soft metal wire wrapped around the spool under a caulking nut.

When replacing a faucet seal, follow these steps:

Step 1: Turn off the water supply and remove the faucet handle.

Step 2: Unscrew the caulking nut and remove both the nut and the old seal from the spool.

Step 3: Install the new seal. If you're using a wire seal, wrap it around the spool a couple times. If you're using a seal like soft wire, wrap it around the spool only once.

Before putting the faucet back together, apply a thin coat of petroleum jelly to the threads of the spool and to the threads of the caulking nut.

Four: Faucet O-rings

Kitchen faucets have one or more O-rings to keep water from gushing out around the spout. If the O-rings are worn out, you will see water coming out of the bottom of the spout every time you turn on the faucet.

Here are the tools you'll need to replace the O-ring: adjustable wrench, plumbing seam tape, replacement O-ring .

To replace the O-ring:

Step 1: Turn off the water supply, turn counterclockwise and remove the threaded coupling nut that secures the outlet. Be sure to wrap the nut in tape to prevent it from being scratched by pliers or wrenches.

Step 2: After removing the coupling nut, lift the spout up a bit to remove it from the spout holder, where you'll see the rings.

Step 3: Replace the defective rings with new ones of the exact same size. Put the faucet back together again.