Traditional Culture Encyclopedia - Traditional virtues - Clothing characteristics of four ethnic groups
Clothing characteristics of four ethnic groups
Miao costumes are called "Ou Qian" in Miao language. It is mainly composed of children's wear, casual wear and performance clothing. The dress is called "Ouqian Gagexi" in Miao language, which means "lifting the bottom coat", and "Ouqian Peach" is called "silver coat" in Miao language, with a pleated skirt under it and a waist at the front and back. Miao costumes are divided into children's wear, men's wear and women's wear. The color and decoration of Miao men's wear are monotonous, not as bright and rich as women's wear. Women's wear can be divided into casual wear and formal wear. Casual clothes are usually worn clothes, and the colors, patterns and decorations are not as bright as those worn at weddings during festivals. If silver ornaments are the representative symbols of Miao women, then costumes represent the unique works of art of Miao people. Ci Hai records: "Miao Xiu is as famous as Xiang embroidery, Su embroidery, Shu embroidery and Yue embroidery, representing the highest level in Miao Xiu." Miao embroidery and costumes, as the famous artist Liu Haisu praised, "Miao women's embroidery is ingenious, and Xiang embroidery and Su embroidery are even more difficult to avoid customs, which has great commercial development and prospects. Miao costumes are famous for their dazzling colors, complex decorations and intriguing cultural connotations. Miao costume design bears the historical responsibility of inheriting national culture, so it has the expression function of text part. Because of the long history, the written function and the specific meaning conveyed by these patterns are also mysterious and cannot be fully interpreted, which is also the unique charm of Miao costume patterns. Miao costume pattern is a decorative art developed with Miao costume, and it is still used in daily clothes and daily necessities. It has the characteristics of combining practical and aesthetic functions, and has been endowed with rich connotations and meanings such as inheriting national traditions, commemorating ancestors and inheriting ancestral teachings. The meaning and origin behind these patterns represent the Miao people's perceptual experience and interpretation of the objective world. Miao costumes have a long history. Due to historical reasons, there is no historical record of Miao costumes. However, judging from the cultural connotation represented by the symbols of Miao costumes, Miao costumes have a history of thousands of years. Although Miao people don't have their own literature, with a strong sense of identity, they have passed down from generation to generation, and the stories handed down for thousands of years, the cities where their ancestors lived, and the routes of migration and drifting have been integrated into the clothing culture bit by bit, and they have also been embroidered on clothes and costumes, which will not be forgotten from generation to generation. Therefore, Miao costumes are called "history books without words" and "history books" worn on the body. Embroidered garment with protruding bottom is the most representative pattern in Bai-washed Miao costumes, which consists of the word "Ouqian" and the flash "Ouqian", namely "red embroidery" and "dark embroidered garment with black background" by Hanze. There is no embroidery on the back of the two pieces, and other patterns are the same as "Ou Qian Ge Ge Xi". However, the most varied clothing pattern is the "throwing force dial"-sleeve flower, which is mainly arranged in various geometric figures. Embroider various patterns on different geometric figures to form many "throwing disks" with different names-sleeve flowers. For example, "learn to whistle" means "silk sells red flowers" in Chinese; Tossing Silla's academic fate "means" little red snakeskin flower "in Chinese; Vomiting recovery "; Chinese means "chicken mushroom flower" throwing a knife ",which translates into Chinese as" flower on the treetop "; Throw away the branches ",translated into Chinese as" fern flower "; Throw away nine ",translated into Chinese is" needle flower "; Its flowers are also called "throwing"; Translated into "popcorn"; Translate "Nine Songs of Throwing Acoustics" into "Sixteen Hook Silkworm Flowers"; Wandering around ",translated into Chinese is" little four red flowers "; Give up your position ",the Chinese translation of" Four Red Flowers "; The translation of "treasure throwing" into Chinese means "floating red flowers" and more than 40 kinds of clothing patterns. Miao costumes are also called miao clothing, and there are more than 200 kinds of Miao in southeastern Guizhou, which is the most varied and well-preserved area in China and even in the world, and is called "Miao Costume Museum". On the whole, Miao costumes keep the traditional techniques of weaving, embroidering, picking and dyeing in China. While using one main technique, they often use other techniques, either picking by embroidery, dyeing by embroidery, or combining weaving and embroidery, so that these flowers are colorful and show distinctive national artistic characteristics. From the content point of view, clothing patterns are mostly based on various life images in daily life, which plays an important role in expressing meaning, identifying nationalities, branches and languages. These video records are called "epic worn on the body" by experts and scholars. From the modeling point of view, China's traditional line drawing or approximate line drawing modeling technique with single line as the outline of the pattern is adopted. From the perspective of production techniques, the five forms of weaving, sewing, splicing and cutting in the history of costume development are all examples in Qiandongnan Miao costumes, with distinct historical levels, which can be called the exhibition hall of costume production history. From the color point of view, they are good at choosing all kinds of contrasting colors, and strive to pursue the richness of colors, generally red, black, white, yellow and blue. From the composition point of view, it does not emphasize the prominent theme, but only pays attention to the requirements of the overall sense of clothing. Formally, it can be divided into formal clothes and casual clothes. Dress-up is a kind of costume used for holiday etiquette and wedding. It is complex and gorgeous, which reflects the artistic level of Miao costumes. Casual clothes, the style is quieter and simpler than formal clothes, with less materials and less labor, suitable for daily wear. Besides formal and casual clothes, Miao costumes are different in age and region.
2. Dai people
Dai costumes are elegant and beautiful, which not only pay attention to practicality, but also have strong decorative meaning, which can reflect the national personality of loving life and advocating the beauty of neutrality. There is little difference in men's wear across the country. Generally, you often wear a collarless double-breasted or large-breasted small sleeve coat, long-sleeved trousers and white cloth, pink cloth or blue cloth. Dai women's clothing varies from region to region. Dai women in Xishuangbanna wear all kinds of tight underwear, tight collarless short sleeves, colorful skirts, one foot long, and delicate silver belts; Some Dai women in Dehong also wear colorful big skirts and tops, while others (such as Luxi and Yingjiang) wear white or other light-colored big-breasted tops, trousers and an embroidered waist, and then change to double-breasted tops and skirts after marriage; The "Huayao Dai" in Xinping and Yuanjiang areas wore cardigans and black skirts, which were decorated with colorful strips of cloth and silver bubbles to form various patterns, which were dazzling. All kinds of Dai women's dresses can show the graceful figure of women. Dai women like to wear long hair and tie it on their heads. Some of them are decorated with combs or flowers, some are wearing headscarves, some are wearing tall cylindrical hats, and some are wearing top hats, each with its own beauty and characteristics. Dai costumes with tropical and subtropical scenery also have unique national characteristics. Dai men generally like to wear collarless double-breasted or large-breasted small sleeve blouses and long-sleeved trousers, and often cover their heads with white cloth, yonghong cloth or blue cloth. There is a common custom that tattoos are an integral part of the beauty of body decoration. Patterns include tigers, leopards, elephants, lions, dragons, snakes and other animals or scriptures, gossip, lines and other patterns. Women's clothes are different everywhere. Dai women in Dehong often wear light-colored big-breasted tops, trousers and small waists before marriage, and double-breasted tops and colored or black skirts after marriage. Dai women in Xishuangbanna wear tight underwear such as white, striped or sky blue, large-breasted or double-breasted narrow-sleeved T-shirts, and their lower bodies are mostly long skirts of different colors. Dai women everywhere are very particular about hair accessories. Most young women tie their hair to the top of their heads, and some people tie their hair to the back of their heads. On weekdays, not only wear a handkerchief or a comb in your hair, but also wear a headscarf in cold weather. If it is a festive occasion, girls especially like to put flowers and perfume on the banquet, and then put on exquisite dresses made of satin, nylon, corduroy and gold velvet. Make them feel more attractive. Every time I take a bath by the well by the river, I am slim. The slim Dai girl, with bright black hair behind her head and a silver belt between her tight coat and floral skirt, is slim and graceful, just like the charm of a classical lady.
3 Tujia nationality
Male: The head is covered with a green silk handkerchief or a green cloth, and the white cloth handkerchief is 2-3 meters, with a herringbone cover, which does not completely cover the hair. The older coat is called "Pipa Golden Tujia Clothing", with copper buttons and plum blossom stripes, and the hem is embroidered with "silver hooks". Later, it gradually became full of underwear (mostly middle-aged people) and corsets, and there were five or seven pairs of buttons in the middle of the corsets worn by young people. Pants are blue cloth with white cloth belt, shoes are white shoes with sorghum surface and thick soles.
Female: Head bag1.7-2.3m moss or green cloth, without herringbone. Coat cloth: a Tujia costume with large lapel and short left lapel leader, no collar and no piping. Lapels and cuffs have two different green edges, but no lace. The second is a silver hook. This kind of clothes has a short collar, with wide green edges on the skirt and cuffs, three five-color plum blossom laces behind the green edges on the cuffs, and colored lines embroidered on the blue edges on the chest. Three or three strands of tendons, coat sleeves, cuffs 16.5 cm wide edge, collar height 1.65 cm, three thin edges. Fourth, the wedding dress, the bride likes to wear "naked clothes" (that is, red clothes), long and big. Women's shoes are more particular, except for the "dog teeth" at the hem, the uppers are all blue, blue and pink silk. Various flowers, butterflies and bees are embroidered on the front of the toe with five-color silk thread. Embroidered insoles are the most precious gifts that girls give their lovers.
4. Bai nationality
Bai costumes may be related to Bai people's worship of white. White is popular in both men's and women's clothing, whether in dam areas or mountainous areas. It can be processed with fabrics of other colors according to different gender, age, figure and appearance to produce a delicate and bright appearance. At first glance, it gives people a feeling of elegance, distinct colors and prominent lines, which is rich in local ethnic characteristics and often gives people unforgettable impressions and aesthetic feelings. Dali Bai men usually wear white double-breasted shirts with lace black collars, white or blue fat pants, white buns on their heads and elegant and practical embroidered satchels on their shoulders. Bai men who live in mountainous areas or with other ethnic groups wear sheepskin jackets or blue homespun belts over their white double-breasted clothes. Men's wear has now been changed to Hanfu, and only around the Three Ghosts' Day, Torch Festival and other national festivals can we see some costumes with national characteristics. The clothes of Bai women vary from place to place, but white is the most important. Therefore, Bai women, old and young, love to wear white shirts, exquisite and delicious red, blue or light blue collars, trousers with grey-blue and green fabrics embroidered with trousers corners, embroidered shoes on their feet and embroidered short aprons with flowers and birds embroidered on their upper edges. The clothes of Bai women, regardless of age, not only look harmonious, but also give people a beautiful and generous feeling. Bai costumes in different places have some similarities, but they also have many distinct characteristics. Anyone who has seen the film Five Golden Flowers is deeply impressed by the costumes of the Bai people. A Peng's dress, wearing a white double-breasted dress, tunic, white or blue wide pants, white head wrapped in Baotou and embroidered bag hanging on his shoulder, is bright and generous, showing the handsomeness of Bai men. "Red collar, white shirt, bright blue waist ribbon, people have to like it", referring to the clothing of Bai Jinhua. The basic component of this kind of dress is a white right-handed blouse, plus a collared blouse (also called vest, collarless) and a tunic, with lace pants on the bottom. The styles are mostly tight-fitting waist, and the colors are bright and generous, with strong contrast. The hairstyle is braided on the top of the head, wrapped with bright red rope, wrapped with embroidery or colorful headscarf, and Bai Liusu hangs down on the left side. Wearing silver earrings, the collar and right shirt have silver "three whiskers" and "five whiskers". I like to wear silver, enamel or jade bracelets and rings on my hands, embroidered shoes and Bai costumes on my feet. This dress has a harmonious structure, elegant colors, sharp contrast and beautiful lines. No wonder a poet once lamented, "The only braid is a red tapestry, and the brocade is particularly beautiful." Fringed Joe peeked at the beauty, and Yunbin secretly motioned. Tight sleeves and white shirts pity the sea, and crimson collars surround Cangshan. "
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