Clothing of Yin and Yang Teachers in China in Tang Dynasty

Basic knowledge of yin-yang teacher-clothing

Heian period (794- 1 192), also known as the "national wind era" in Japanese history, refers to a new culture with a unique national style developed after digesting the culture of the Tang Dynasty. During this period, the clothing technology was developed and the decoration tended to be gorgeous, which was the "aristocratic era" in the history of Japanese clothing. Heian period's court dress became the basis of the later expansion ceremony.

The most important thing in the dress is the coronation worn by the emperor. This costume is still based on the tradition of China: the emperor's crown has twelve crowns, nine princes, seven doctors and five doctors. Xi is a group of pearls and jade with colored threads, which are hung on the front and back of the crown. Big sleeve clothes, red background decorated with eight chapters of sun, moon, stars, insects, pheasants, tigers and apes; Decorate four chapters, such as white algae rice; Imperial belts are divided into long warp and short warp, decorated with Yu Pei. The dress of civil servants and military attaché s below the Crown Prince is roughly the same as that of Nara.

Royal clothing can be divided into belts, cloth sleeves and clothes. Belt refers to wearing a crown and robes (half arm, underarm, underwear, single coat, coat, red mouth, sword and water-holding suit). This is the most formal dress in the court. The cloth belt is slightly simpler, and it is worn by fingers, that is, a slave skirt, instead of a coat. A dress refers to a dress that omits the half arm, underarm, stone belt, embroidered skirt, long knife and fan. If you don't get permission, you can't directly participate in North Korea.

Daily clothes, including straight clothes, work clothes, dry water, etc. Straight clothes refer to the regular clothes, including miscellaneous robes, underwear, light clothes, and fingers down. Straight clothes with a crown are called straight clothes with a crown, and those with a black hat are called straight clothes with a black hat. Hunting clothes refer to clothes with black hats, hunting clothes, close-fitting clothes and trousers skirts. Straight clothes are worn by nobles, and inauguration clothes are usually worn by officials or bureaucrats, and they are also formal clothes for lower-ranking officials. Water drying means wearing Eboshi, jacket, thin coat and shirt. Shuigan is a casual dress for inferior officials, and ordinary people can wear it.

With straight clothes, inaugural clothes and water drying, there will be robes. There are two kinds of robes, the former is worn by civil servants or military attaché s after work, and the latter is worn by military attaché s on duty. The fabric of robes is twill in winter, plain silk in the lining and yarn in summer. Choose different colors according to different grades of official products. The emperor's robes were stained with yellow smoke. It is reported that in the 11th year of Hong Ren, the emperor began to wear yellow robes. The robe is decorated with patterns such as Tang grass and phoenix wearing peony. The emperor wore a white plain silk robe at the sacred ceremony. Wear a royal robe at a royal ceremony. Yuzhai holds the bar in front and the fold in the back. The emperor's father wore a red robe decorated with bamboo and paulownia in his palace. The crown prince is wearing an orange robe decorated with mandarin ducks in the palace.

The colors of courtiers' robes range from Rongyuan Emperor to Sandiao Imperial Capital. One to four products are purple, five products are scarlet, six or seven products are dark green, and eight products and new officials are dark blue. When the bird feather emperor, purple turns black. The patterns on the robes are Tang grass patterns, opposite ripples and so on. And there is no pattern on the robes below level 6. In the future, different patterns will be decorated according to different families, but no patterns will be decorated below level 6.

Taizhengtai, Zhengtaitai and Kirby wear scarlet clothes, which are semi-armed sleeveless tops with columns in the front and pleats at the left and right.

Small sleeve is the representative of folk daily clothes, small sleeve in ancient times is similar to today's round small sleeve kimono, and small sleeve is a kind of Kun. Since the 11th year in Hong Ren, Emei, it has become a custom to wear blue calico in ceremonies and shrines. When offering sacrifices, people put on white cloth printed with blue flowers, that is, small bogey clothes. There are two red and black ribbons hanging on the right shoulder. The collar is decorated with patterns of butterflies and birds. Dancers wear axillary blue printed robes with bamboo, palm and other miscellaneous themes. The red ribbon hangs on the left shoulder. Sacrifice officials wear sleeveless robes or sew axillary robes.

Women's wear in Heian period changed a lot. The royal dress is getting closer to formal dress, with the upper and lower skirts lengthened and the skirt width narrowed, revealing the inner skirt. The types of women's wear can be divided into formal wear and casual wear. Formal dress is formal dress, and casual wear includes small laurel, slim and pot Zhuang clothes.

The costumes are Tang suit, watch, GUI, slender, pot, single coat, dress, quilt and so on. Tang suit refers to straight collar clothes with long clothes and short sleeves. Later, Tang suit was also called forbidden color, which stipulated that purple and red brocade Tang suit could not be worn casually without permission.

It shows a kind of clothing similar to kimono today.

Gui, multi-layer clothing, no layer limit. According to Hua Rong legend, there are as many as 18-20 floors. Small laurel is a kind of light and transparent clothing covering the watch. The color of this kind of clothing is different from that of the watch, but through the small and light texture, some colors of the watch can be revealed, which is very beautiful, which is a feature of modern Japanese kimono.

Slender clothes are worn on Xiao Gui, and there is no special regulation on the texture and pattern of clothes that look slender.

Pot outfit, referring to Dai's Women's Award and Dai Gui, is a dress worn by women when they go out.

Single clothes, especially the decorative "Twelve Orders", are also important clothing styles in this period, which are worn by female officials in the palace. Twelve orders don't refer to twelve layers of single clothes, but to decorative clothes with twelve layers of GUI stacked on them.

Dyeing and weaving in heian period is developed on the basis of the former, especially yarn and nylon fabric, which are widely used in daily life. Fabric. The processing methods of patterned fabrics mainly include weaving, dyeing, painting, embroidery and brushing. Dip dyeing is the main printing method, and brush dyeing is a manual printing method that directly uses plant stems and leaves or relies on templates to print patterns on starched white silk or paper.

Dyed fabrics are very rich in color, so pay attention to choosing colors according to the situation. If the cherry blossom pattern is displayed, the surface layer looks white, but at the same time, the lavender of the inner layer should also be exposed. Although the cherry blossoms are white, the tender leaves are lavender, so the whole shows the true face of nature, and no detail can be ignored. In addition, the Japanese also patterned natural, sketched and exotic patterns, transforming the original concrete content into decorative and geometric patterns. This mode is called professional mode. Such as pattern, ripple pattern, turtle back pattern, etc. Kamakura and Muromachi-samurai costumes and performance costumes