Traditional Culture Encyclopedia - The 24 Solar Terms - What are the main points of chrysanthemum cultivation techniques?

What are the main points of chrysanthemum cultivation techniques?

The culture soil can be garden soil 5 humus soil (or peat) 2 manure soil 2 plant ash 1, and a small amount of organic fertilizer such as bone meal can be added. Before composting 1~2 years in advance, 10%~20% river sand can be added, chopped in April ~ May, and put in a pot for disinfection in May ~ June. Generally, the height of the selected pot is 1/3~ 1/2 of the height of chrysanthemum, so it is not necessary to fill the pot soil, which is about 2/3 of the height of the pot, and then gradually fill the pot soil with the growth of plants.

There are common transplanting methods in various places, such as potted plants in potted plants, that is, the method of transplanting chrysanthemum seedlings into potted plants after budding; Potting means planting chrysanthemum seedlings directly in flowerpots and cultivating them into plants. Generally, you need to change the pot 2-3 times. Planting potted plants in July is another form of potted chrysanthemums. Transplanting chrysanthemum seedlings to the ground first, putting a flowerpot with a diameter of 20 cm on the seedlings in early July, and adding culture soil twice, which will be more laborious and promote rooting management. Chrysanthemum is a strong sunny flower, which likes humidity and avoids water stains. Too much watering can easily make chrysanthemum plants grow white and their stems elongate. Insufficient watering affects its normal growth and development, leading to leaf withering, foot leaf falling off, and even flower bud differentiation completed ahead of schedule. In the early flowering period, master the principle of "seeing dry and wet, seeing dry and wet, not doing it, not pouring it thoroughly". Generally, water in the morning and evening on sunny days 1 time. When the weather is cold, watering the seedlings in the morning after the weather is slightly warmer requires less water. Controlling water, especially after topping, can make axillary buds full. After budding and after the buds with buds develop and change color in the vegetative growth season, the watering amount should be gradually increased. After the flowers are unfolded, water should be avoided as far as possible to avoid rot. Fertilization method can be dry liquid application or foliar application, starting from 1 week after planting, and every 7~ 10 days/time. Nitrogen fertilizer is mainly used in topdressing during vegetative growth period, such as urea fermented bean cake water; After turning to reproductive growth, phosphorus and potassium fertilizers should be added, such as compound fertilizer, bone meal and potassium dihydrogen phosphate. And foliar fertilizer can also be applied at the peak of vegetative growth and bud pregnancy, once every 7~ 10 day 1 time, once in the morning and once in the evening, and sprayed evenly on both sides of the leaves, with the concentration of urea 0. 1%~0.2% and calcium superphosphate 1%. If the weather is cold and humid, the concentration of fertilization should be less, and the basin soil should be slightly dry when applied. Don't splash fertilizer. If the leaves are polluted, they should be washed with clear water in time, so as not to find that the leaves are too thick, green or even drooping after defoliation, so fertilization should be controlled. If the leaves are thin and yellow, and fertilization is insufficient, topdressing should be applied to remove the top of main branches or side branches, so as to promote the growth of side branches, achieve the expected number of flowers, control the height of chrysanthemum plants and postpone the flowering period appropriately. Generally, potted chrysanthemums can be picked three times, the first time is in the middle and late June, half a month after cutting, the height of seedlings is as high as 15~20 cm, and the base is left 3~4 times when 6~7 leaves are left. For the second time, 3-4 weeks after the first coring, 2-3 leaves are left at the lower part of the new branch; In the middle and late August, about five days before and after beginning of autumn, the last coring was carried out. The method is the same as above, but the coring time must be strictly controlled, neither too early nor too late. The lateral branches will not grow too long too early, and the flowering will be delayed too late.

At the same time of coring, leave the required number of flower branches. When the buds are just exposed, wipe off all the redundant leaf axillary buds, concentrate nutrients, strengthen branches and promote flowers. The specific coring time should be determined according to the plant growth and local climate, and the number of branches to be left should be determined according to the size of the pot and the cultivation needs. When the branches grow to 10~ 15 cm, well-developed branches can be selected and unnecessary branches can be cut off from the base. Usually, 4~5 flowerpots with a diameter of 18~20 cm are reserved, and 7~ 12 flowerpots with a diameter of 20~30 cm are reserved. If the culture soil is full of nutrients, it can still keep 1~2 branches. Chrysanthemum has many flower buds, and only 1 main bud is needed at the top of each branch. All other buds need to be removed. Generally, when the bud size is mung bean, it is the best time to sparse flowers. Just wipe it off by hand, don't pull it out or pinch it off, otherwise it will damage the leaf stem. Because of the different development degree of buds, varieties that need multiple thinning can also be controlled by spraying chemicals. For example, paclobutrazol is the most economical and effective, but the concentration must not be too high, otherwise the leaves will curl and shrink, and chrysanthemums will grow slowly because of the large flowers. The stem is fragile and easily broken. Generally, when buds appear, they should be tied up with vertical rods in time. Generally, thin bamboo sections or reeds are used. Tie the lower part first, and then fix the upper part. Generally, the normal flowering of chrysanthemum is divided into two times. In autumn, in order to make chrysanthemum blossom ahead of time, short-day treatment is often used to promote cultivation. The specific methods are as follows: ① it is appropriate to choose early flowering and middle flowering varieties; ② Before shading treatment, the plants should have a certain height, and the Gao Qian varieties should be as high as 36 cm. The shading time of dwarf and drought varieties was 1 1 hour in the first half, and then shortened to 9 hours. Different varieties have different shading days, generally 35-50 days. Shading time blocks the sun in the evening and morning. When the shading material is closely covered with black film, attention should be paid to short-day treatment, and the temperature must not be high. If there is any interruption, long-day treatment is often used to inhibit cultivation. The specific methods are as follows: ① flowers are used in the Spring Festival and propagated in late July. (3) In late August (during the summer solar term), the light is supplemented, usually for 4 hours. The lighting effect is from 10 at night to 2 am the next day. It is best to determine the number of days of light according to the time of flowers and the characteristics of varieties. ④ Incandescent light bulbs (36W, 40W or 60W) of lighting equipment are connected in series, with 5-6 bulbs in each group (at low voltage). The lamp is above the pot surface 1.5 ~ 1.8m, with an average of 100 ~ 120 pot/lamp. After illumination, the temperature suitable for flower bud differentiation and development should be maintained until the flower bud is the size of soybean. When the temperature is lower than 15℃ at night, the flower buds will not differentiate due to weather, water, fertilizer and light supplement time. If the flowering period is too early, you can spray chlormequat chloride or spray it 2-4 times before the flower buds develop color (generally, spraying once can delay the flowering period by 7-8 days). The main diseases are rust, black spot and gray mold. You can spray carbendazim and zineb to control pests, such as aphids and small-headed locusts. You can control pests by spraying dimethoate, dichlorvos and cypermethrin.