Traditional Culture Encyclopedia - Traditional culture - What kinds of clothing systems can be divided into?
What kinds of clothing systems can be divided into?
According to the basic form and modeling structure of clothing, it can be divided into three types: body type, style type and mixed type.
1. body type
Body-shaping clothes are clothes that conform to the shape and structure of the human body and originated in cold areas. The general wearing form of this kind of clothing is divided into upper and lower parts. The jacket adapts to the shape of human chest, neck and arms; The bottoms conform to the shape of the waist, buttocks and legs, mainly pants and skirts. Cutting and sewing are more rigorous, paying attention to the outline modeling and main effect of clothing. Suits, for example, are mostly body shapes.
2. Style type
Style clothing is a loose and stretched form. Covering the human body with cloth is a clothing style that originated in tropical areas. This kind of clothing is free and casual, and the cutting and sewing process is mainly based on simple plane effect.
3. Mixed type
Mixed structure clothing is a comprehensive mixed form of cold zone body type and tropical style type, which has the characteristics of both. The cutting adopts a simple plane structure, but takes the human body as the center, and its basic shape is rectangular, such as China cheongsam and Japanese kimono.
Two, according to the clothing combination, use, fabric, production process classification.
1. Classification by wearing combination
There are roughly the following categories:
1. jumpsuits, dresses and other whole clothes connected with tops and bottoms have a strong sense of overall modeling.
There are two-piece, three-piece and four-piece suits, in which the top and bottom of the suit are separated.
3. The coat is worn on the outermost layer of clothes, including coats, windbreakers, raincoats, cloaks, etc.
4. The vest is a sleeveless garment worn to the upper body, usually as short as the waist and buttocks, which is a slightly close-fitting shape.
5. The dresses used to cover the lower body include one-step skirts, A-line skirts, truncated skirts and culottes.
6. Pants are divided into legs from the waist down to the hips, which is convenient for wearing and moving. There are trousers, shorts and trousers.
2. Classification by purpose
Divided into underwear and coats. Underwear clings to the human body, playing the role of protecting the body, keeping warm and shaping; Coats are used in different places, and there are many varieties and categories. It can also be divided into: social clothing, daily clothing, professional clothing, sports clothing, indoor clothing, stage clothing and so on.
3. Classification according to clothing fabrics and production technology
Chinese clothing, western clothing, embroidered clothing, woolen clothing, rice, silk clothing, cotton clothing, fur clothing, knitted clothing, down clothing, etc.
Three, according to the classification of HS code
The Harmonized Commodity Description and Coding System (HS) is a multi-purpose international commodity classification catalogue, which is based on the classification catalogue of the Customs Cooperation Council (CCCN) and the United Nations Standard International Trade Classification (SITC), and refers to other major international tariff, statistics, transportation and other classification and coordination systems. HS code, six digits represent its classification number, the first two digits represent the chapter number, the third and fourth digits represent the position of each product in the chapter (arranged according to the processing level), the first to fourth digits are the title, and the fifth and sixth digits are called the subtitle, and the first six digits are consistent in all countries. After the seventh digit, it refers to the number of codes formulated by countries according to their own needs. Clothing belongs to the eleventh category and chapters 6 1 and 62 of the harmonized system classification system. Chapter 6 1 is a knitted or crocheted product, with the number from 610/.1000-610/.9000 * * 65438. Suitable for any textile products except filled tires. The serial numbers range from 6201.1100-6217.9000 to *** 155, which are classified according to style, gender, age and raw materials. For example, the HS number of pure cotton men's down jacket is 62065438. HS code classification has specific requirements for the gender of clothing, that is, gender is divided into male, boy, female, girl and baby; The left placket belongs to men above the right placket, and vice versa. Neutral clothing belongs to women. The knitting sequence of needles, woven garments and garment accessories is from coat to underwear according to product characteristics, needles correspond to woven fabrics, and then other products. For example, 6203. 1 100 is a men's suit made of wool or fine animal hair (for coats), and 6207. 1 100 is a cotton men's underwear (for underwear, with the code at the back), and another example is: 6104.5003.0000000000006
Four, according to the production and processing characteristics of knitted clothing classification.
(A) Wool knitted clothing category
1. Classification by raw material composition
(1) Pure wool (including blended wool): it can be divided into woolen sweater, cashmere sweater, camel hair shirt, lamb hair (short hair) shirt, rabbit hair blended shirt, camel hair blended shirt and yak hair blended shirt.
(2) Blended fabrics: they can be divided into wool/acrylic, rabbit hair/acrylic, mohair/acrylic, camel hair/acrylic, cashmere/nylon blended shirts, cashmere/silk blended shirts, etc.
(3) Pure chemical fiber (including chemical fiber blended type): it can be divided into elastic nylon shirts, elastic polypropylene shirts, elastic polyester shirts, acrylic bulky shirts, acrylic/polyester, viscose/nylon blended shirts, etc.
(4) Interwoven fabric: it can be divided into wool acrylic fabric, rabbit wool acrylic fabric, wool cotton woven shirt, etc.
2. Classification by spinning process
(1) Combs: knitted wool, fine wool, sweaters, thick sweaters, etc. Spinning by combing process.
(2) Carding category: all kinds of sweaters, cashmere sweaters, rabbit sweaters, camel sweaters, shiran sweaters, etc. Woven by knitting yarn spun by carding process.
(3) Colored yarn sweater: A colored sweater woven with colored knitting pile (terry yarn, knotless yarn and brushed yarn). This kind of sweater is unique in appearance, style and artistry.
3. Classification by knitting machine type
Sweater fabrics are generally weft knitted fabrics, including circular knitting machine products and flat knitting machine products.
(1) Circular knitting machine products: refers to sweaters that are woven into cylindrical grey cloth by circular knitting machine and then cut and sewn.
(2) Flat knitting machine products: refers to sweaters made by knitting garment blanks with hand-operated flat knitting machines and then processing and sewing them. It can also refer to the grey cloth woven by computer flat knitting machine, which is cut and sewn into sweaters.
4. Classification by fabric structure.
Generally divided into single-sided, Siping, fish scale, jacquard, pull flower, pick flower, twist and so on.
5. Classification according to the modified mode
It can be divided into printing, embroidery, applique, tie-flower, beaded flower, plate flower, napping, felting, inlaying, relief and so on.
(1) Printed sweater: The pattern is printed on the sweater by printing process to improve the beautification effect, which is a new variety of sweater. Printed patterns include whole body printing, predecessor printing, local printing and so on. Beautiful appearance, strong artistic appeal and good decoration.
(2) Embroidering sweaters: Embroidering various flower patterns on sweaters by manual or mechanical means. The patterns are exquisite and colorful, mostly tops and children's clothes. There are natural embroidered sweaters, plain embroidered sweaters, colored embroidered sweaters, velvet embroidered sweaters, silk embroidered sweaters, gold and silver embroidered sweaters and so on.
(3) Pulling the Mao Mao sweater: the knitted sweater piece is napped, so that a layer of uniform and dense fluff is pulled up on the surface of the fabric. Mullah shirts feel fluffy and soft, and they are light and warm to wear.
(4) Shrinking sweaters: Also known as shrinking Mao Mao shirts and sweaters, they generally need felt. The cashmere sweater is dense and thick in texture, soft and plump in hand, dense and delicate in surface fluff, and comfortable and warm to wear.
(5) Embossed sweater: it is a new kind of sweater with strong artistic quality. The pattern is printed on the sweater with water-soluble anti-felting resin, and then the whole sweater is felted. The pattern printed with anti-felting agent does not produce felting phenomenon, and the fabric surface presents felting and non-felting relief patterns, and then the embossed patterns are decorated with printing, so that the patterns are strong, beautiful and elegant, giving people a novel and eye-catching feeling.
(2) Cotton knitted clothing category
1. According to the production mode of fabrics, knitted garment fabrics are divided into warp knitting and weft knitting.
2. According to the fabric structure, the basic warp knitting structures of single-comb warp knitted fabric are warp knitting, satin knitting and warp knitting. However, in actual production, double-comb or multi-comb warp knitting structure is generally used as coat or shirt. In the double-comb warp knitted fabric, warp velveteen weave, warp plain weave and warp diagonal chain weave are widely used. The basic structure of weft knitted fabric mainly includes plain weave (commonly known as "sweat cloth"), rib weave (commonly known as "elastic cloth"), double rib weave (also known as double front weave, commonly known as "cotton wool cloth") and double back weave (also known as "pearl weave"). There are cushion weave, tuck stitch weave, terry weave, pineapple weave, leno weave, ripple weave, plush weave, warp and weft insert weave and composite weave.
Five, other classification methods
In addition to the classification methods mentioned above, some clothes are classified according to gender, age, nationality and special functions.
1. by gender
There are men's and women's clothes.
2. Classification by age
There are baby clothes, children's clothes, adult clothes and old people's clothes.
3. Classification by ethnic group
There are China national costumes and foreign national costumes, such as Han costumes, Tibetan costumes, Mexican costumes and Indian costumes.
4. Classification by special function
There are heat-resistant and fire-resistant clothing, high-temperature overalls, watertight diving suits, flying suits worn at high altitude, spacesuits, mountaineering suits worn at high mountains and so on.
5. Classify clothes according to their thickness and different padding.
There are single clothes, double clothes, cotton-padded clothes, down jackets, silk cotton-padded jackets and so on.
6. Classify clothes according to their washing effect.
There are stone washing, rinsing, general washing, sand washing, enzyme washing, snowflake washing and so on.
7. Classification according to national standards
Class A refers to the safety standard of infant clothing products under 36 months.
Class b and class c are the safety standards for children or adults, in which: class b refers to products that can be directly applied to the skin; Class C is a product that cannot be directly applied to the skin.
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