Opening Report on Graduation Design of Textile and Clothing Specialty

Thesis Title: Research on the Basic Pattern of Knitted Underwear

1, the basis of the topic

Underwear industry is one of the most potential industries in China clothing industry.

Underwear industry is one of the most potential industries in China clothing industry. In the wave of China's economic take-off, the underwear industry is booming. Due to the lack of materials and high added value, it has increased at a rate of 20%-30% in just over ten years, with annual sales exceeding10 billion, with an annual growth rate of nearly 20%. There are more than 3,000 domestic underwear manufacturers, of which more than 400 have begun to take shape. Shandong, Zhejiang and Guangdong have become the processing bases of underwear factories. China has a large underwear production capacity. In the clothing retail market, China sells 300 million bras every year, and knitted underwear accounts for about 25% of the total sales of five categories of clothing (men, women, children, sweaters and knitted underwear). In China underwear market, women's underwear accounts for 60%, which has become the top priority of the whole underwear industry. It is a vibrant, fastest-growing and promising branch of China garment industry.

The development of 1.2 technology makes the structural design of underwear more scientific and reasonable.

Underwear is the general term for underwear. According to the different kinds of underwear, it can be divided into three categories: ordinary underwear, slim (orthopedic) underwear and decorative (fun) underwear. In recent years, with the development of science and technology, especially the application of new surface accessories, and the growing desire for underwear products in mass clothing life, the structure of knitted underwear has changed significantly in many aspects such as design methods and procedures. Mainly manifested in: First, the appearance of new fabrics has changed the shape and structure of underwear. For example, the continuous optimization of the performance of pure spun covered yarn knitted elastic fabrics further improves the comfort of traditional knitted fabrics and changes the traditional habit of relatively loose underwear structure design. Secondly, with the synchronization of international fashion trends, underwear design should fully satisfy consumers' aesthetic interest in pursuing fashion, so as to provide products with various styles and functions, such as different clothes and different underwear. Different people choose different underwear on different occasions, and the structures of underwear with different functions are also different. Thirdly, the specialization of underwear processing, the specialization of equipment, the accuracy of human body size data and the control of product specifications have a fundamental impact on the production of underwear structural boards.

The influence of all these factors is undoubtedly the source that the structural design and plate-making process of knitted underwear are becoming more and more complicated and refined. From the perspective of underwear research and development, the structural design and board making of underwear are based on the structural designer's understanding of the static and dynamic structure of human body, the understanding of underwear pattern structure, the grasp of underwear comfort function and the comprehensive expression of fashion and aesthetic taste.

1.3 The structural design of women's underwear is rooted in the principle of clothing structural design and has its particularity.

The general law of clothing structure design is embodied in the acquisition, setting and specific application methods of clothing basic patterns, which are completely consistent with the methods and procedures of women's underwear structure design, but there are differences because the parts and functions of underwear cutting in human body structure are different from ordinary clothing. As we all know, clothing structure design is an important part of clothing modeling design, and it is the primary way to transform flat cloth into three-dimensional clothing modeling that conforms to people's aesthetic concepts and culture. In modern clothing structure design, it has become common sense in clothing design teaching and production practice to understand the structural characteristics of the wearing human body with the help of basic patterns and carry out structural design. The modeling form and composition of basic patterns vary with different body parts and clothing types. Generally speaking, it has three characteristics: first, the basic pattern is the basic form of the human body acting on the clothing structure, and it is the plane form of the three-dimensional human body in the forming process of the basic clothing (or parts). Therefore, the basic pattern reflects the basic characteristics of the external structure of the human body in a relatively static state and the requirements of the law of human movement for clothing in a certain dynamic state. Secondly, the basic patterns can be designed into basic patterns of different specifications according to the actual production requirements (also called basic patterns, basic boards or motherboards), which embodies the advantages of different styles to achieve the same specifications. Thirdly, different basic modes are typical of the corresponding basic modes, which provides convenience for users to change their styles and structures.

The structural design of knitted underwear also conforms to the general law of clothing modeling. Taking underwear as an example, the acquisition, setting and application of its basic pattern further embodies the general characteristics of the basic pattern of clothing. Underwear is an important part of underwear category, and its protective function is very prominent. Although in the fashion trend of underwear, the self-cultivation function and decorative taste are so dazzling, from the perspective of daily application, practical function is undoubtedly the cornerstone of aesthetic taste of such products and the basis for public purchase. In addition to fabric performance, the rationality of underwear structure design is also an important carrier of clothing comfort function. We believe that there are many factors that form the microclimate in the comfortable clothing, such as tightness, exercise, margin, ventilation, friction and so on, which are directly related to the structure. Reasonable structure can make you comfortable to wear, that is, the design of the structure should meet the static requirements of the human body and the dynamic requirements of the human body; It is both protective and comfortable. Based on the law of clothing modeling and the demand of human body for clothing, the theoretical basis and practical conditions for realizing the high rationality of clothing structure are determined through the acquisition, setting and application of basic patterns.

2. The purpose and significance of the research.

2. 1 purpose

Through the research on the acquisition, setting and application of the basic pattern of women's underwear, the relationship between the wearing human body structure, the basic pattern of underwear and the pattern of underwear products is revealed. It further proves that the basic pattern plays an important role in the process of clothing structure design. As a way of understanding and bridge between human body and clothing, basic pattern is a concentrated expression of the universal law of clothing structure design. Through data query and experimental design, we should do the following:

(1) Reproduces the static shape of human body through the formula of three-dimensional clipping and plane composition.

(2) According to the basic power and functional factors needed by the human body, the basic pattern is formed by splitting and combining.

(3) According to the structural classification of different genders and varieties of underwear, the structural design of typical styles is carried out by using the corresponding basic patterns, which proves its feasibility and provides effective reference and help for clothing production practice and professional teaching.

2.2 Importance

Hong Kong Polytechnic University formally established Yide Underwear College in 2004, and started full-time bachelor's courses in September 2005. However, domestic colleges and universities have not set up the substantive specialty of "underwear structure design and technology", and most of them just add some related topics to the clothing design course. The design basically stays in the form of floor plan, but the research on structure and technology is basically too busy to take care of, and the limitations are obvious. Therefore, the lack of relevant basic theoretical research and teaching directly leads to the fact that in-service technicians in the domestic underwear industry can only rely on mentoring or self-exploration to carry out their work. This is due to the sustained and rapid development of underwear industry in recent years. From a technical point of view, taking knitted underwear as an example, for a long time, its structural design usually depends on the specified number of experiences. Although convenient, it lacks scientific basis. Because of the randomness of data, it is difficult for students to draw inferences from others in teaching promotion, and it can't meet the requirements of developing products with innovative thinking. Therefore, from a scientific point of view, this way of inheritance can not fundamentally meet the requirements of product development and innovation.

Innovation is the soul of a nation, and independent innovation is the only rule of enterprise success. For underwear, the foundation of product innovation is technological innovation first, so it is necessary to reveal the acquisition of basic patterns, the setting of basic patterns, and the methods and laws of application through the analysis of human body and products in a scientific way. Make it more suitable for enterprise production and school teaching, and further promote the development and progress of product development technology in underwear industry. Therefore, it is the significance of this study to take the study of "Basic Pattern of Women's Underwear and Its Application" as an example, to seek the internal laws, explore effective methods and create new ways for the structural design of knitted underwear.

3. Research status at home and abroad.

With the sharp increase of domestic underwear consumption, the particularity of underwear design and the uniqueness of underwear technology have begun to be recognized by the industry. In recent years, many experts and scholars at home and abroad have studied the structural design of knitted underwear.

In China, from 1999 to 10, Beijing Institute of Fashion and Beijing Aimo Underwear Company jointly established Bev Aimo Ergonomics Institute. Through the cooperation between schools and enterprises, the research work on the distribution of human body shape, the basic theory and application of clothing has been carried out, and the structural foundation research of some underwear has also been involved.

In the process of summing up experience, some senior technicians in underwear enterprises have explored some methods of underwear structure design. For example, in June 2004, Shanghai Science and Technology Publishing House published the book Principles and Skills of Underwear Pattern Design, which was edited by two senior designers in underwear industry, Yin Hechang. Through a large number of pattern examples, the basic principle and classification of underwear are understood, and the pattern design and specific operation methods of the board are also involved, including the grading and typesetting of underwear patterns, the inventory of materials and the production technology of various underwear, in which the structural design of knitted underwear is a part. Yin also promoted underwear structural design technology by providing lectures and short-term training courses to various garment colleges in China.

Published in Journal of tianjin polytechnic university,No. 10, 2002, the article "Research on the Design Method of Clothing Structure Based on Decoration and Ergonomics" makes a relevant analysis and demonstration on the relationship between human body and clothing structure. The book Clothing Ergonomics and Clothing Design, edited by Pan Jianhua and published by China Light Industry Press in 2000, makes a deep analysis of the general law of clothing ergonomics acting on clothing design. All these provide some reference for the study of underwear structure. There are some chapters in Knitted Garment Design and Technology edited by Professor Shen Lei of Jiangnan University, Knitted Garment Design edited by Associate Professor Xue Fuping of Guangdong Textile Vocational and Technical College and Knitted Garment Design and Production edited by Roberto.

Wang, Wang, Wang et al. published an article entitled "Solution to the crotch problem of tight boxers" in the August 2005 issue of Knitting Industry magazine. Aiming at the problem that the crotch of tight knit boxers hangs down, the characteristics and pattern structure of the covered human body parts are analyzed, and the reasonable structure design is carried out by using the method of transferring the dividing line. This paper expounds the research process of effectively solving this problem. Judging from the contents of lectures, books and papers published by relevant professionals in China, professionals with enterprise background focus on the research of operation methods and the establishment of workflow; However, college teachers focus on the theoretical research on the modeling characteristics of clothing categories, and most of them choose a detail to discuss similar correction methods, but none of the above have expounded the basic patterns and applications of women's pants.

In foreign countries, the research on underwear structure design is earlier and deeper. The Pattern Design of Underwear, Swimsuit, Beach Wear and Casual Wear, edited by Hager in England, was published by China Textile Press in August, 20001,some of which involved the structural design of women's trousers. Japanese underwear research has always been at the advanced level in the world. Since 1950s, Japanese underwear research and product development has been in Asia, especially in Japan, with remarkable achievements in data collection, ergonomics research, body shape distribution and structural laws, providing a good technical platform for Japanese domestic underwear enterprises. The book Human Body and Clothing, published by China Textile Publishing House on 200 1 and translated by Yuan Guanluo, makes a detailed analysis of the relationship between clothing and human body. A lot of contents are helpful as the theoretical support for the structural principle and design of women's underwear. Sino-Japanese joint venture "Hua" underwear is an underwear brand developed, produced and sold in China by using Japanese technology, among which the functional design of women's underwear structure is one of the characteristics of this brand product which enjoys a high reputation in the industry.

To sum up, for women's underwear, the method of structural design seems simple, but its structural principle and law are difficult to reveal, not only because it has a completely different shape from the trousers structure of the coat, but also because its initial pattern has many possibilities when it is transformed into different basic patterns. Therefore, the composition and application of basic patterns is actually the key to enhance scientific understanding in underwear structure design. At present, there is no complete and systematic theory in this field, and there are few data and related research is also lacking in depth. Most of them are scattered knowledge accumulated through long-term experience, and rarely discuss the basic patterns and applications of knitted underwear from the perspective of structural research and product development. Therefore, the research of this topic not only has important theoretical value, but also has extensive practical significance for enterprise production.

4. Research methods.

(1) Literature analysis: data and information are obtained mainly by consulting authoritative materials.

(2) Inductive analysis: Mainly use the laws and methods of clothing structure design to classify the underwear structure, and draw corresponding conclusions by inducing, analyzing and comparing its structural characteristics.

(3) Comparative analysis method (picture method): Through vertical and horizontal comparative analysis, the applicability of the basic pattern of women's underwear is compared and analyzed from the aspects of human body structure, fabric characteristics, style and fashion trend.

(4) Experimental design method: Make the corresponding structural design scheme, and carry out experimental design on the basis and process of the structural setting of the basic pattern of underwear (that is, initial acquisition-setting of basic pattern I-setting of basic pattern II) and the application methods of two basic patterns of underwear, so as to provide the verification basis for this topic (corresponding methods can be used to make the design scheme, such as direct modeling method, spatial coordinate method, geometric modeling method, etc. ).

5. The content of the study.

This topic mainly studies the basic pattern of knitted underwear and its application. Through data inquiry, comparative analysis and a series of experiments, the composition and setting method of the basic pattern structure of women's underwear are found out. And on this basis, find out the way corresponding to the style classification. Summarize the law of basic pattern applied to style change and the influence of fabric properties on this law. There are mainly the following parts:

The first chapter is introduction.

1. 1 The emergence and development of underwear

1.2 Performance and function of women's underwear

1.3 Knitted underwear

1.3. 1 Modeling features of knitted underwear

1.3.2 classification of knitted underwear

1.3.2 Common fabrics for knitted underwear

Chapter II Dimensions and Specifications of Knitted Underwear

2. 1 anthropometric method for knitted underwear

2.2 Collection of knitted underwear size data

2.3 Knitted underwear size series

2.4 Specification setting of knitted underwear

Chapter III Basic Patterns of Knitted Underwear

3. 1 Acquisition of Initial Pattern of Knitted Underwear

4. 1 Preparation of standard three-dimensional cutting model

4.2 Three-dimensional cutting women's underwear fabric selection

3. 1. 1 Initial pattern obtained by three-dimensional cutting

I. Compilation of Standard Stereo Cutting Platform

Second, the choice of three-dimensional cutting fabric

Thirdly, the initial pattern is obtained by three-dimensional cutting.

3. 1.2 Initial pattern obtained by plane drawing

3.2 Basic patterns of knitted underwear

3.2. 1 Modification of initial pattern of women's underwear

3.2.2 Setting of Basic Pattern of Women's Underwear

3.2.3 Basic patterns of women's underwear Ⅰ-crotch structure

3.2.4 Basic pattern of women's underwear Ⅱ-crotch structure

Chapter IV Application of Basic Patterns of Women's Underwear

4. 1 Basic pattern of women's underwear: application principles and methods

4.2 Application of Basic Patterns of Women's Underwear

Chapter V Conclusion

6. Experimental design

(1) According to the national size series data and the standard human body model, the knitted underwear is decomposed, and it is attempted to locate according to the expected human body space coordinates, and the coordinates are reconstructed and set according to the style category. Therefore, it summarizes the law that human body shape and style characteristics affect and restrict the change of underwear structure line.

(2) Reconstruction design of the initial pattern structure. According to the product structure category, each component of the initial pattern structure line is set and the combination is optimized. Put the ready-made clothes on the standard platform of 84A, and make a feasible and simple basic pattern. Through sample preparation, sample analysis and comparison, the influence degree and law of different parts on the silhouette under different factors are compared.

(3) The feasibility of this creative method is demonstrated through the experimental design of the basic patterns I and II of women's underwear.

7. Research and innovation

On the basis of studying the relationship between women's body and underwear structure, this topic creates the basic pattern of women's underwear through induction, comparison, analysis and application experiments, seeks the structural law of the basic pattern of women's underwear, and provides effective methods and convenient ways for the structural design of women's underwear products in domestic underwear industry. It will certainly improve the scientificity and rationality of the underwear variety structure design method, and promote the deepening of the basic research of clothing structure in China to a certain extent. Judging from the current research situation, this is a brand-new research field. This is also the main innovation of this topic.

8. Possible problems of the topic.

(1) Because the clothing structure comes from the human body structure, there are differences, so how to select the standard human body for inch picking and start the preliminary pattern collection through the simulation of prosthetic limbs, in which the grasp of the amount of exercise, the range of movements and data collection are the most important.

(2) Due to the lack of research data on the basic patterns of knitted women's underwear, and the influence of women's body, race, region and other factors, the final conclusion of this topic may not be specific and accurate.

9. Expected research conclusions

Summarize the rules of women's underwear structure design, and summarize the basic pattern setting and application methods of knitted women's underwear.

10, schedule

The research work of this topic is initially located in five stages:

(1) September 20xx-February 20xx 12: Search for relevant literature, define the target and select the theme.

(2)20xx year 1 month -20xx April: data collection and research.

(3) April 20xx-July 20xx: data analysis and experimental design.

(4) July 20xx-June 20xx 65438+February: preliminary conclusion, thesis writing.

(5) 20x65438+February-20xMarch: paper revision and defense.

References:

[1] Zhong Zeyu. Human body and clothing [M]. Yuan Guanluo, translated. Beijing: China Textile Publishing House, 200 1.

[2] Ann Hager (England) Ann? Haig, pattern design of underwear, swimwear, beach wear and casual wear [M]. Translation of Aimo Ergonomics Research in Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology, Beijing: China Textile Press, 200 1.8.

[3] Principles and skills of underwear structure design, Yin, Chang [M]. Shanghai: Shanghai Science and Technology Press, 2004.6

[4] underwear structure design course, Yin [M]. Beijing: China Textile Publishing House, 2006.3.

[5] women's underwear design drawing techniques, Hong Jing, Wang Lin [M]. Donghua University Press, 2007.3

[6] Valerie Steele (America) Valerie? Steele, underwear-a cultural history [M]. Tianjin: Baihua Literature and Art Publishing House 2004+0

[7] Pan Jianhua. Clothing ergonomics and clothing design [M]. Beijing: China Light Industry Press, 2000.

[8] Liu Ruipu. Principles and skills of female structural design [M]. Beijing: China Textile Publishing House, April 2003.

[9] Joan Nunn (English) Joan? Na, fashion for 800 years [M]. Translated by He Tong, Guilin, Guangxi: Guangxi Normal University Press, 2004.5

Catherine McVeigh & Jenny Munslow [England] Catherine? MacKay, Jane Rhein? Maslow. Fashion design: process, innovation and practice [M]. Beijing: China Textile Press, 2005.

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