Textile Cultural Relics of China in Pre-Qin Period

Textiles from the Neolithic Age to the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period are difficult to preserve because of their age. Archaeologists have obtained precious fabric fragments and fabric traces attached to utensils in archaeological excavations of ancient sites. This provides reliable material historical data for studying the origin and development of textile science and technology in China.

From 65438 to 0958, silk, ribbons and ropes were unearthed at the Neolithic site in Qianshanyang, Xing Wu, Zhejiang (more than 2700 BC). Silk and silk fragments (Figure 1) are 2.4 cm long and 1 cm wide, and are yellowish brown. The density of warp and weft is 48/cm, and the direction of silk is Z; The width of the silk is 5 mm, and it is woven with 16 thick and thin silk thread. The projected width of the wire rope is about 3 mm, and it is composed of 3 strands, with the direction of S and the degree of 3.5 strands /cm. 1970 silk fragments unearthed from Taixi village site in Gaocheng, Hebei Province in the middle of Shang Dynasty (Figure 2) show that there were Suwan, wrinkled cymbals, twisted cymbals and three silks at that time. There are five kinds of silk products stuck to bronzes unearthed from Fu Hao's tomb in Yinxu, Anyang, Henan Province: more than 20 pieces of yarn and ten thousand pieces of cinnabar, 9 pieces of double warp and weft 1 piece, and palindrome 1 piece. It shows that silk weaving technology developed rapidly in Shang Dynasty.

1955 The bronze hilt unearthed from the Western Zhou Tomb in Rujiazhuang, Baoji, Shaanxi Province was covered with layers of silk remnants (Figure 3). Among them, there are 5 diamond-shaped flowers on the plain, and the warp and weft densities are 34 and 22 flowers/cm respectively; Diamond silk fabric with double warp and weft weave, with warp density of 70/cm and weft density of 40/cm. 1970, more than 20 layers of silk fragments were unearthed from the Western Zhou Tomb of Weiyingzi in Liaoyang, Ningxia. A piece of brocade is a twill weave with double warp, triple warp and lower warp (Figure 4), with warp density of 52 /cm and weft density of 14 /cm. These objects show that the silk jacquard technology was further developed in the Western Zhou Dynasty.

1957, a pile of silk fabrics was unearthed from the Chu tomb in Zuojiatang, Changsha, Hunan. Diamond brocade with dark brown background and red and yellow flowers. The remaining length is 32.5 cm, the width is 23.3 cm, the warp density is 138/ cm, and the weft density is 40/ cm. The remaining length of rectangular brocade in brown land is 19.9 cm, and the width is 8.2 cm. The word "Queen" is written in ink on the brocade face, and the warp and weft densities are 80/cm and 40/cm respectively. There are 7 pieces of two-color checkered brocade in brown land, with the largest remaining length 17 cm, width 1 1cm, warp and weft density 140 pieces /cm and 60 pieces/cm. The remaining length and width of geometric pattern filled brocade are15.3cm and 4.5cm respectively, and the warp and weft densities are 126 and 48/ cm respectively. The residual length and width of the dark flowers from Nitiao to Longfengjin are 2 1 cm and 23 cm, respectively, and the warp and weft densities are 130 and 44/cm, respectively. This batch of silk fabrics shows that in the Warring States period, the pattern has developed from geometric pattern to animal pattern (see color map), the color configuration is also rich, and the jacquard technology has also made great progress.

1982, a large number of silk products in the late Warring States period were unearthed in Jiangling, Hubei Province (see silk products unearthed in Mashan Warring States Tomb in Jiangling). /kloc-in the winter of 0/977, two strands of twine and three strands of straw rope (about 5000 BC) and textile machine parts were unearthed at Hemudu Neolithic site in Yuyao, Zhejiang Province. 1972, Leggebu (about 3400 BC) was unearthed from the Neolithic site in Caoxieshan, Wuxian County, Jiangsu Province. The meridional density is 10/cm, the zonal density is 13 ~ 14/cm, and the textured part is 26 ~ 28/cm. It is the earliest kudzu fiber fabric (see color map). /kloc-during the period of 0/958, several pieces of ramie cloth, together with silks and silks, were unearthed at Qianshanyang site in Xing Wu, Zhejiang Province. The warp and weft are S-twisted, and the warp and weft densities are 24 ~ 3 1 and 16 ~ 20/cm, respectively.

1973 Two pieces of coarse linen were unearthed from the Shang Dynasty site in Taixi Village, Gaocheng, Hebei Province (Figure 5), with warp and weft densities of 14 ~ 20 pieces /cm and 6 ~ 10 pieces /cm respectively. 1978, hemp and ramie fabrics were found in the coffin of Wuyishan Rock Tomb in Chong 'an (BC 1400). Hemp yarn has S and Z strands, and the warp and weft densities are 20-22 and 15 respectively. The warp and weft densities of ramie cloth fragments are 20 ~ 25 pieces /cm and 15 pieces /cm, respectively. Ramie yarn is a Z-shaped stock with 6 shares/cm.

Western Zhou hemp fabrics were unearthed from the Western Zhou Tomb in Baoji, Shaanxi, with warp and weft densities of 20 and 12 respectively. By the Eastern Zhou Dynasty, the fineness of hemp fabric had improved. For example, ramie cloth unearthed from Liuhe and Zhoumu tombs in Jiangsu Province has warp and weft densities of 24 and 20/cm respectively. About 15 liters of cloth. Ramie cloth unearthed from Chu Tomb in Changsha, Hunan Province, has a width of 0.3 mm in warp projection, 0.45 mm in weft projection and a density of 28/ cm and 24/ cm in warp and weft respectively. About 17.5 liters of cloth. This fine ramie cloth is close to modern fine cloth. 1979, a number of linen fabrics were unearthed from the tomb of Xianyan in Guixi, Jiangxi Province. Hemp and ramie fabrics are yellow-brown, dark brown and light brown. In the same tomb, 36 pieces of textile tools and utensils were unearthed. Physical description shows that there were more advanced weaving tools such as winding frame, tooth harrow warp and oblique loom. What is more precious is a few printed fabrics. Dark brown ramie cloth is printed with uniformly distributed silver-white block patterns. From the Han Dynasty to the Tang Dynasty, many textile cultural relics were unearthed all over the country. Among them, Mawangdui Han Tomb in Changsha, Hunan has the largest number, the most complete variety and the highest quality (see textiles unearthed from Mawangdui Han Tomb). The rest are mostly unearthed along the ancient "Silk Road", and the varieties are silk, wool, cotton and linen.

Silk fabrics unearthed in various places are numerous, varied, complicated in organization, diverse in patterns and complete in color spectrum.

Silk products in Han dynasty include brocade, rib and Luo.

① Brocade: 1959 A variety of silk fabrics of the Eastern Han Dynasty were unearthed at the Niya site in Minfeng, Xinjiang. Among them, Han Li's inscriptions are the most distinctive, such as Ruyi Brocade in Shiwan, Brocade Gloves for Longevity of Children and Colored Checked Brocade Socks in Yangzi. 19 14 years, the Englishman Stein found many fragments such as Han Renjin, Wuji, Changle, Changle Weiyang, Longevity, Ascending the Mountain and Looking Far in the Eastern Han Tomb in Guloulan. Are there any tapestries unearthed in the wild of Mongolia, such as "New God Guang Cheng Shou Wan Nian", "Long live Qunchang Shun descendants", "Youcheng Junshou Ruyi Brocade" and "Guangshan Brocade"? Shanjin and other big items. "Handmade Brocade" and "Handmade Brocade Fragments" were unearthed from the tomb of Ogras in Misusinko, Soviet Union, and China's inscription Brocade was found in the tomb of palmira, Syrian. It can be seen that in the Eastern Han Dynasty, Han Li's inscription combining cirrus clouds and dogwood patterns symbolizing good luck has become quite popular. The most representative "Shiwan Yiru" brocade in Han Dynasty has a width of 40.75 cm, and the warp and weft densities are 168 and 75/ cm respectively. Use warp double-layer weaving to weave flowers in groups and zones. Each zone is crimson and white warp, and the third color, such as sapphire blue, light camel color (taupe) or fragrant color (light orange), is combined into a pair.

② Qi: In the Han Dynasty, there were leaves from the Minfeng Niya site, flowers and animals unearthed from the Huns tomb in Inula, Monguno, and the palmira tomb in Syria. This kind of crepe weave is basically the same as that unearthed from Mawangdui Han Tomb, and it is a twill flower shape on the plain ground. The warp and weft densities of leaves are 66/cm and 26 ~ 36/cm, respectively. Each unit of the pattern weave circulation is 3.9 cm high and 8.2 cm wide. This fabric needs a 38-page heald.

(3) Flower Luo: a red cup-shaped diamond Luo at the Niya site in Minfeng, Han Dynasty. Its warp and weft densities are 66/cm and 26/cm respectively. The knitting method is four warp twists with four warp yarns as a group. This kind of flower roller is also made by using the method of twisting heddle and upper heddle jacquard in the Western Han Dynasty and punching it out with a machete.

Silk fabrics from Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties were mainly unearthed from Astana Tomb in Turpan, Xinjiang. Brocade is still dominated by warp brocade, and the pattern is characterized by animal patterns combined with flower patterns. Kuiwenjin in the Northern Dynasties, with a residual length of 30 cm and a width of 16.5 cm, is made of five colors: red, blue, yellow, green and white. The remaining length 18 cm and width 13.5 cm of plaid animal brocade. Meridians are divided into five colors: red, yellow, blue, white and green. Each area is a group of three colors, and the blue block Niu Wen is displayed on the yellow and white ground, the red line lion pattern is displayed on the green and white ground, and the blue line double elephant riding pattern is displayed on the yellow and white ground, and the grid pattern, line stripe and block pattern are combined into a special style pattern. The warp and weft densities of another tree brocade are 1 12/cm and 36/cm, which are woven with five colors: crimson, sapphire blue, leafy green, light yellow and pure white. The weaving method is basically the same as the above two kinds of brocade. In the tombs of Astana in Turpan at 1966 and 1972, other varieties such as Peacock Lotus Brocade, Sheep Bird Brocade, Wang Hu Camel Brocade, Peacock Lotus Brocade and Bird Lotus Brocade were also found, among which Julian was the first special brocade found.

In the Tang Dynasty, a large number of silk fabrics were found in the tombs of Turpan and Minfeng in Xinjiang. Such as peacock, bird, lion, sheep, duck, chicken, deer, dragon, bear head, pig head and other auspicious patterns. There are also flowers, precious flowers and dizzy? Flowers, knights, nobles, kings, auspicious figures and other new decorations. Weaving technology has developed from warp to weft. Among them, precious flowers, brocade shoes and halo? Brocade skirts and sweaters have the most prominent halo effect. Such as the halo of variant precious flowers, birds and brocade shoes? The lining is a colorful brocade woven by red, pink, white, dark green, lush green, yellow, sapphire blue and deep purple silk threads. There are fine flowers, rough oblique brown, sparse wool, warp and weft, thick tufted carpet.

Three grape grains, one man and one beast, were unearthed from the Niya site in Minfeng, Han Dynasty 1959, with a residual length of 2 1 ~ 26 cm and a width of 2.3 ~ 4.6 cm. The warp and weft densities are 56/cm and 30/cm, respectively. The warp is double-stranded, and there is a dark green grape grain on the beige background. The four-petal flower pattern of tortoise shell unearthed from the same tomb has a residual length of 24 cm, a width of 12 cm, and a warp and weft density of 2 1 and 26/ cm. After three strands of warp and two strands of weft, a crimson petal pattern is woven on the indigo ground. Wool remnants are 30 cm long and 5.5 cm wide, and the warp and weft densities are 24/cm and 18/cm respectively, which are almost similar to silk wool. This is the first time that the weave of wool is 2 warp and 3 weft. 1959 A blanket unearthed from Tomb No.1 in Minfeng Desert, with a residual length of 32 cm and a width of 12 cm. The warp and weft densities are 7-8 and 4/cm respectively. Knitting adopts horseshoe knot method, and a row of velvet weft yarns is planted every five weft yarns, which is 20 mm long and just covers all the patterns. The colored velvet weft is decorated with patterns of crimson, indigo and beige. Modern Hotan carpet is developed from this kind of carpet.

Wool products in the Southern and Northern Dynasties mainly include plaid and purple brown unearthed from the Northern Dynasties site in Lake, Wu Yutian, Xinjiang. The length and width of tartan residue are 15.7 cm and 12.5 cm respectively, and the warp and weft densities are 18/cm and 15/cm respectively. The plaid is made of blue and yellow. The remaining length of purplish brown is 15.5 cm, the width is 6 cm, and the warp and weft density is 25 /cm. The other piece is blue and white printed oblique brown, with twice twill weave, and the warp and weft density is 22 /cm, so the fabric has a fine and accurate effect. The other piece is yellowish brown, with residual length 1 1.5 cm and width of 9.5 cm. The warp and weft densities are 12/cm and 9/cm, respectively, and the weave is two-ply twill with directions Z and S, so the fabric has a rough feeling. Two tapestries were unearthed from the Kuzishalai site in Bachuto, Xinjiang. The remaining length of a tapestry is 19cm, the width is 12cm, and the warp and weft densities are 3 pieces /cm and 4 pieces /cm. Tapestry fabric is still tied in horseshoe shape, woven into four adjacent large diamond patterns with original brown hair and yellow, blue and red threads, and then dyed with red, brown and blue colors. Very decorative, it is a unique style of ancient ethnic patterns in Xinjiang.

Most of the woolen goods in the Tang Dynasty were unearthed in the Kuzishalai site in Bachuto, Xinjiang. The hair is brown and plain, with an extra length of 8 cm and a width of 5 cm, and the warp and weft densities are 12 and 13 respectively. The yellow-blue stripes are brown, the remaining length is 6 cm, the width is 6 cm, and the warp and weft densities are 4/cm and 8/cm. Due to the large difference in density between warp and weft, the surface has a lateral relief effect. Unearthed in the same place are long horn carpet, flower carpet, bird pattern carpet and six petal pattern carpet. Among them, the remaining length of the bird pattern blanket is 19 cm and the width is 9.5 cm. The warp and weft densities are 3/cm and 12/cm, respectively. The warp yarn is Z layer and the weft yarn is S layer. On the red ground, the blue wing pattern is displayed, and the feathers are dotted with brown and the pattern is clear. The remaining length of the six petals peach blossom carpet is 35cm, the width is 4cm, and the warp and weft densities are 4/ cm and 12/ cm respectively. There are four groups of latitudes: red, blue, yellow and white. Six white flowers are displayed on the blue ground, and the stamens are full of yellow. Each flower is separated by a red latitude, which makes the pattern more striking and vivid. The cotton cloth in Han Dynasty is also called white folded cloth. /kloc-during 0/959, the cotton cloth unearthed from the Eastern Han Dynasty site in Minfeng, Xinjiang included blue and white printed cotton cloth, white trousers and handkerchiefs. The fragments of blue and white printed cotton cloth are 80 cm long and 50 cm wide. The other batik cotton cloth is 86 cm long and 45 cm wide, with plain weave and warp and weft densities of 18 and 13/ cm respectively.

A large number of cotton fabrics were unearthed in Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties. 1964 a cloth figurine unearthed from the golden tomb in Turpan, whose clothes and trousers are all sewn with cotton cloth. 1959, a piece of cloth with a length of 2 1.5cm and a width of 14.5cm was unearthed at the laike site in Wu Yutian. The warp and weft densities were 25 and 12 respectively, and it was woven with natural and blue cotton yarns. The blue-and-white printed cotton cloth unearthed from another tomb has a residual length of 1 1 cm and a width of 7 cm. The warp and weft density is thinner than before.

In A.D. 1959, exquisite cotton cloth was unearthed at Kuzsalai site in Bachu. At the same time, a blue-and-white jacquard cotton cloth was unearthed, with a residual length of 26 cm and a width of 12 cm. The texture is heavy, and the warp and weft densities are about 16/cm and 8/cm. On the blue ground, with natural cotton thread as double weft, exquisite weft patterns are woven. Textile cultural relics unearthed in the Song Dynasty mainly include more than 300 pieces of fabrics and clothes from Huangsheng Tomb in Fuzhou, Fujian Province, more than 50 pieces of clothes from Zhou Jun Tomb in Jintan, Jiangsu Province, clothes from Song Tomb in Wujin Village, Jiangsu Province, silk and linen fabrics from Song Tomb in Hengyang, Hunan Province and Tomb 108 in Xia Ling, Ningxia Hui Autonomous Region, and cotton blankets from Lanxi, Zhejiang Province. The varieties of silk unearthed from Huangsheng Tomb include plain yarn, crepe silk and silk. Plain twill; Flowers woven by twisted warp; There are 7 varieties, such as twill weave in different directions or changes, twill weave and 6 satin weave, of which only 200 pieces are available. Luo Song, like Han Jin and Tang Ling, is a popular variety show with the characteristics of the times.

Before the Song Dynasty, four twisted lotuses were unearthed, and two twisted lotuses and three twisted lotuses were unearthed for the first time. Twisted flowers are plain floating flowers on the pattern of twisted ground. The warp and weft density of plain jacquard is 36×27/cm. Patterns include swastika, Brahma wheel, some, leaf-shaped four-way and other miscellaneous treasures used by the Nazi Party. 2. The embossed jacquard pattern starts from the weft in the pattern, and the warp and weft density is 32× 18/cm. The floating weft structure is that when the twisted warp is arranged parallel to the ground warp without twisting, the twisted warp sinks, and 1, 3, 5, 7 and 9 weft yarns float on the warp yarns to form a pattern. The patterns are swastika, plum blossom, four-way flower and four-petal flower. These two kinds of flowers are small jacquard fabrics with the theme of miscellaneous flowers. There are three kinds of warp yarns: plain weave, twill weave and hidden weave. The warp ground warp structure consists of three warp yarns (1 twisted warp yarn and two ground warp yarns), and the pattern is raised by single warp and double warp plain weave. The maximum difference of warp and weft density is 45× 18/cm. Patterns include peony, camellia, begonia, lily, rose and chrysanthemum, among which peony and camellia are the most. 3. Twill weave, with a twill rib pattern with two tops and one bottom. The maximum difference between warp and weft density is 45× 19/cm, the warp diameter is 0.05 ~ 0.20mm, and the weft diameter is 0.20 ~ 0.40 mm. The patterns are peony, camellia, gardenia, rose, rose, hibiscus and so on. , mainly peony and hibiscus. The appearance of the ground structure is similar to that of the 2-warp twist, but it is actually the looming of the 3-warp twist. When A, B and C3 are twisted into ground parts by thick and thin yarns, one of the thick warp yarns in the pattern part is separated as a single plain weave, and the longest untwisted plain weave is 13, and the shortest is three. Because of the different weaving shrinkage between hank weaving and plain weaving, the single warp plain weaving of flower is slack. This mode can be divided into two categories: connecting branches and disconnecting branches. There is a peony flower with a diameter of 12 cm. The largest pattern unit is 4 1× 15/cm, which was a rare large pattern before the Song Dynasty.

The pattern is mainly peony or hibiscus, with camellia, gardenia, plum blossom and chrysanthemum. This realistic flower theme, as the expression of jacquard technology, is full of life breath. The composition design is a broken branch flower with peony and hibiscus compound petals as the main body, with branches dotted with small flowers and lotus flowers woven at the core of the main flower. Plum blossoms are woven on hibiscus leaves. Due to the specific background of the times, the weaving technology of textiles in Yuan Dynasty was mostly inherited from the previous generation, but the styles and varieties were quite distinctive. The textiles in Yuan Dynasty are famous for their gorgeous colors and rough patterns. The textiles of Yuan Dynasty collected by Inner Mongolia Museum and Xinjiang Museum fully reflect this feature.

The abbreviation is "weaving gold", and the Mongolian pronunciation is translated as: Na's lost is the most distinctive product in Yuan Dynasty textiles. In the Xinjiang Museum, there is a Yuan Dynasty military uniform: a Phnom Penh coat and butter silk. This coat is made of beige oil silk and lined with white denim. Sleeves are narrow and long, and waist is thin. There are 30 "braided lines" at the waist, and the width of * * * is 9.5 cm. "Weaving thread" is to twist several strands of silk thread into a braid and tie it around the waist. Cuffs, collars, shoulders, bottom placket and slits are all decorated with brocade. Some of the tapestries used are gold and some are gold. Short for "Pianjinjin Brocade" woven from Pianjin, the warp is silk thread, the weft is gold thread and colored cotton thread, and the silk thread is ground weft. Warp can be divided into single warp and double warp. The thinner single warp is used to consolidate the weft, and the thicker double warp interweaves with the ground weft to make the fabric firm. The density of warp and weft is 52×48/cm, and the pattern is lotus pattern. Warp is also silk, which is divided into single warp and double warp groups. The weft consists of two parallel gold threads and a cotton thread. Gold thread is used as weft, and cotton thread is used as ground weft. Twill weave is single warp and weft, plain weave is double warp and weft, and the warp and weft density is 65×40/cm. The weft shows flowers with gold thread. The obvious part of the pattern is a portrait with big eyebrows, small nose, slightly longer face, crown on the head and backlight from shoulder to crown. There are many textile cultural relics handed down from Ming and Qing dynasties. Unearthed textiles can be represented by those unearthed in Dingling (see [[〖HTK〗] Ming Dynasty textiles unearthed in Dingling). Handed down products can be represented by the cover tapestry of Tripitaka, Amin Magazine and the treasures of fabrics worn by the royal family in Ming and Qing Dynasties preserved in the Palace Museum. The Tripitaka in Ming Dynasty was published in Yongle, Orthodox and Wanli periods (1403 ~ 16 19). The materials for surface mounting are mostly taken from the inner warehouse and the four warehouses of "shipping", "glory", "Guangying" and "stolen goods", which can basically represent jacquard silk products in the early Ming Dynasty. At that time, these scriptures were distributed by the imperial court to temples all over the country. The patterns and styles of fabrics are rich and vigorous, and some are beautiful and lively; Fabric structure and varieties include cosmetic satin, cosmetic yarn, field yarn, bright yarn, dark satin, dark velvet, brocade and brocade. The Ming and Qing fabrics such as satin, velvet, double brocade, velvet planting and five sets of seven-color clips collected by the Palace Museum are even more rare. Many of them are monolithic materials, often accompanied by information such as the name of the time, the year of weaving, the place and the name of the weaver. From then on, we can fully see the original appearance of cloth in Ming and Qing Dynasties.

Jacquard velvet produced in Ming Dynasty. The Palace Museum has a large collection. Jin Di Lian Peony Yunlong Zhang Sa Ding Kang mattress produced in Nanjing at the end of Ming Dynasty was knitted twice in the weft direction, raised by velvet rod and cut into velvet. Double-stranded gold thread floats on the weft background, and scarlet fluff shows flowers. The fluff stands upright, neat and dense, with a height of about 2 mm. The pattern is composed of five-claw dragon, four-in-one Ruyiyun and lotus peony, which has obvious characteristics of the Ming Dynasty. Qing Kangxi makeup satin kang mattress fragments, physical size119× 69.5cm. The pattern is cross-shaped, with lotus, dragon and single flower. The yellow ground warp and ground weft interweave into a changing weave, and the golden velvet warp is fluffy. In addition, four-color wefts of bean green, dark green and pink, as well as double-stranded gold thread, are woven by picking and returning weft, and tied with special binding warp yarns. This kind of satin woven by combining makeup and pile technology is extremely rare. Dry dragon is wrapped with peony satin cloth in blue, with warp satin as the ground organization and colored velvet with flowers. Royal blue, rose red, violet, vermilion and emerald green are arranged alternately, which makes the front of the fabric seamless and the back shows color stripes. The terry at the edge of the fabric pattern is not cut, and the terry warp produces the same color of terry and fluff, which makes the pattern colorful and more stereoscopic. In addition, there is a special monochromatic white velvet flower in the Forbidden City, which is painted on the satin ground. Tapestries left over from Ming and Qing Dynasties are often interwoven with yarns such as silk, wool and cotton, which are exquisite and gorgeous, surpassing the previous generation. The "Nine Lions Picture Carpet" in the Ming Dynasty (existing in the United States) was apricot yellow, with nine colorful lions forming a group of flowers, surrounded by peonies, and the outer circle was a geometric pattern of swastika. The design symbolizes the auspicious meaning of "nine generations under one roof". Both ends of the blanket are decorated with carpet heads. Pilose antler was planted by the traditional "8" consolidation method of Uygur nationality in Xinjiang. Wool weft and cotton yarn are collected by the Palace Museum in the Qing Dynasty, and the physical size of the Golden Thread Jade Hall Rich Tapestry is 270×645 cm. Length 1 1 cm. The pattern was designed according to the court drawings at that time. The pattern consists of magnolia, begonia, peony, ganoderma lucidum, bamboo, butterfly, rock and so on. 23 kinds of colored "wool" (made of domestic silk fibers) and gold and silver threads were used.