What is the history of the development of ancient Chinese weaving and embroidery

In 1982, a Chu tomb had been excavated in Mashan, Jiangling, Hubei, and a large number of silk fabrics, knitting and embroidery were unearthed. The varieties of silk fabrics include silk, Luo, yarn and brocade. Patterns are geometric, diamond-shaped, S-shaped pattern, etc., geometric pattern is also decorated with dragons and phoenixes, unicorns and figures. In a large number of embroidery, there are embroidered clothes, embroidered pants, embroidered robes, etc., embroidery ground mostly in silk, with braided needle embroidered dragon, phoenix, tiger, three-headed bird, as well as grass, leaves, branches and flowers, with smooth lines and high technology.

Qin and Han

The weaving and embroidery crafts of the Qin and Han Dynasties, especially in the Han Dynasty, on the basis of the inheritance of the tradition of the Warring States period, there has been a leap in development. Silk weaving species are more abundant, there are brocade, damask, qi, Luo, yarn, silk, onyx, dandy and so on.

The Han Dynasty silk weaving pattern, common are the following: cloud pattern, animal pattern, flower pattern, auspicious text, a variety of geometric patterns. Han Dynasty silk weaving production process has been very exquisite, Changsha, Hunan Mawangdui one Han Tomb has unearthed a veil Zen clothes, clothing length 128 cm, through the sleeve length of 190 cm, weighing only 49 grams, less than one or two weight, can be seen as extremely delicate.

Han Dynasty embroidery needlework, mainly braid embroidery, also known as lock embroidery, which is characterized by neat needle path, embroidery line solid. Mawangdui Han Tomb had unearthed a large number of embroidery objects, rich in variety, beautiful production.

Three Kingdoms, two Jin Dynasty, North and South Dynasties

Six Dynasties period of brocade, to the Sichuan production of Shu brocade for the famous, "Danyang record": "generations have not yet brocade, and Chengdu alone called wonderful, so the Three Kingdoms when Wei is the city of Shu, Wu is also capital of the West Shu, to be the beginning of the beginning is there." Visible Shu brocade is the Three Kingdoms when Wei and Wu competed for a high-level silk fabrics.

Six Dynasties period of weaving and embroidery patterns, in the inheritance of the Han Dynasty tradition, based on the development of changes, it changed the Han Dynasty cloud gas pattern high and low undulating irregular changes in the format, constituting a regular wave skeleton, the formation of geometric segmentation line, and more stylized.

Sui-Tang

Tang Dynasty weaving and embroidery technology is very developed. Feudal centralized Weaving and Dyeing Department specializing in the management of production, the division of labor is very fine. Folk embroidery production almost all over the country, and the output is very large.

Tang Dynasty weaving and embroidery technology efforts to pursue gorgeous color effects. There are many varieties of silk weaving, and the most famous brocade, generally known as "Tang brocade". It is with the weft flower, with two or three layers of warp threads sandwich weaving method, forming a kind of warp border pattern organization. Therefore, it is different from the traditional weaving method of the Han, Wei and Six Dynasties before the Tang Dynasty, which utilized the warp threads to start the flowers, and called Han brocade "warp brocade" and Tang brocade "weft brocade". Weft brocade has the advantage of being able to weave complex decorative patterns and gorgeous color effects. In addition to the Tang brocade in the traditional pattern pattern on the basis of the absorption of foreign decorative patterns, so it has a fresh, gorgeous, rich artistic style, Tang brocade decorative patterns are: joint bead pattern, regimental pattern, symmetrical pattern, scattered flowers and so on.

Tang Dynasty embroidery to the more sophisticated main direction, because its foundation is too universal, too deep: in the social system of male farming and weaving, millions of girls have to learn "women's red", have to master embroidery. In this way, those who live in the mansion of the rich families of the ladies, embroidery has become their pastime, nourishing and engaged in spiritual creation of the only activity, and gradually formed the "boudoir embroidery".

Song

The silk weaving of the Song Dynasty, on the basis of the traditional production of the Tang Dynasty, there are new developments. The brocade of the Song Dynasty was characterized by the characteristics of the era and was called Song brocade. It is characterized by the use of small flowers, the rules of the pattern, there are variations of the Bada halo, tortoise-back pattern, locks pattern, ten thousand words running water, etc., the organization of the rules of the strict and neat, calm and elegant tone. Song brocade in addition to as clothing, reward and economic trade, but also as a special material for framing paintings and calligraphy, for painters and calligraphers to use.

In the silk fabric, woof is an emerging silk fabric. Woof has a variety of names, such as engraved silk, grams of silk, trembling silk and so on. Woof is mainly woven for painting or calligraphy, reflecting the silk weaving process from practical to appreciate the differentiation. The main place of origin of woof in Song Dynasty was Dingzhou, Hebei in Northern Song Dynasty, and Yunmai (Songjiang) in Southern Song Dynasty as the center, with famous artists.

Song Dynasty embroidery needlework fine, elegant colors; it is also the same as the woof, to the appreciation of the development of goods, became later painting embroidery. Song Dynasty embroidery by the embroidery hospital organization production management, folk embroidery is also more developed, and can be sold as a commodity.

Yuan

Yuan Dynasty weaving and embroidery craft, silk weaving, wool weaving, cotton weaving have been developed to some extent.

Silk weaving is characterized by gold weaving. Gold weaving in the Yuan Dynasty called "Nashi lost" or "Nashi lost lost" and so on. Yuan dynasty rulers like to use gold, "no gold color Shang", so weaving gold has become a fashionable life needs. Gold brocade pattern has a group of dragons, group of phoenixes, Baoxiang flowers, tortoise back pattern, back to the pattern, and so on. Woolen weaving in the yuan dynasty has been a special development, this is due to adapt to the needs of the Mongolian nomadic people's life, more as carpets, mattresses, saddles, shoes and hats. Wool weaving to Ningxia and and Lin as the main source, cotton weaving is a new craft developed in the Yuan Dynasty. China's ancient cotton, known as "Ji Bei", the earliest only planted in the northwest and southwest of the area. The Yuan Dynasty in the vast areas of China has been promoted, cotton weaving craftsmen Huang Daobao made an outstanding contribution. At that time, the Songjiang area of the "Wu Nai Jing quilt", became a famous product north and south of the river.

Ming

Ming Dynasty embroidery craft, silk weaving has been greater development. The country has Jiangnan, Shanxi, Sichuan, Min Guang and other four silk weaving production areas, and to Jiangnan as the main source.

Brocade has the characteristics of the era, known as Ming brocade. Ming brocade has three main types of varieties, namely, the library satin, woven gold and silver, makeup flowers. The library satin Department of native flowers, with the characteristics of light and soft; weaving gold and silver is woven into the brocade gold or silver thread, elegant and luxurious; and the most sophisticated is the makeup of flowers, it is used over the pipe weaving, that is, each flower are using different color line, weaving around, more colors, flowers, with a rich and brilliant artistic effect. The pattern organization of Ming brocade has group flower, folding branch, twining branch, geometric pattern and so on. Tangled branches is the main organization of Ming brocade, with the characteristics of the times. Ming brocade pattern is rich and colorful, there are clouds, dragons, phoenixes and cranes, flowers, birds and butterflies, auspicious brocade pattern, etc., and its shape is simple and generous, rich in programmed decorative beauty.

The embroidery process is famous for "Gu embroidery". Gu embroidery is a kind of painting embroidery, embroidered flowers, figures, plumes, landscapes, "split silk is too fine hair, needle as a hair." It was therefore famous for a while and was highly valued by people. This kind of embroidery to make appreciation mainly,? To the literati appreciation and praise, so the impact was great, several representatives of the embroidery process.

Qing

Qing Dynasty silk weaving, Nanjing, Suzhou, Hangzhou has formed a national production center, rich in variety, beautifully woven. In addition, Sichuan, Guangdong and other regions, silk weaving craft is also flourishing.

The artistic style of silk weaving in the Qing Dynasty, can be roughly divided into three stages: early, middle and late. Early inheritance of the traditional characteristics of the Ming Dynasty, more geometric skeleton, small flowers, small flowers, the rules are rigorous; the pattern of the middle of the elaborate, colorful, and there is a significant European Baroque, Rococo art influence; late prefer to use the folded flowers, flowers, simple and loose. Famous varieties of silk weaving in the Qing Dynasty, there are brocade, Song brocade and Shu brocade, ancient incense satin and brocade satin is also an important product.

The embroidery of the Qing Dynasty, has formed a local system with different characteristics, famous Suzhou embroidery, Guangdong embroidery, Shu embroidery, Hunan embroidery, Beijing embroidery and so on. Suzhou embroidery refers to the embroidery produced in Suzhou, Jiangsu Province as the center, it has a long history, the Ming and Qing dynasties have been greatly developed, the artistic characteristics of Suzhou embroidery, is to stay in the waterway of the color separation method of expression, the embroidery of the larger changes in the object, rich in decorative effect; and because it is harmonized with the color, and therefore beautiful and elegant, with the beauty of poetic. Cantonese embroidery refers to the embroidery of Guangdong region, its art is characterized by strong and bright colors, and because of the use of gold threads, it has a rich and brilliant effect. Guangzhou and Chaozhou are the two main production areas for Cantonese embroidery. In addition to the use of gold thread, Chaozhou embroidery also adopts cushion embroidery, which gives the embroidery a three-dimensional image. Birds and sea animals are common embroidery subjects. The origin of Shu embroidery is centered in Chengdu, Sichuan Province, and its art is characterized by rich folk colors, simplicity and naturalness, and heavy workmanship. Hunan embroidery originated from the vast countryside, the Qing Dynasty before the formation of the production system, which specializes in the performance of animals such as lions and tigers, the image of real and vivid, rich in realistic artistic effect. Beijing embroidery refers to the Qing Dynasty to the needs of the Imperial Palace developed a kind of embroidery, production in Beijing and its suburbs around the area, its embroidery method is exquisite and neat, and more than the production of small pieces of jewelry, such as bags, fan bags, mirror bags, and so on. In addition to the above mentioned kinds of embroidery, Shandong's Lu embroidery, Henan's Bian embroidery, Zhejiang's Ou embroidery, Guizhou's Miao embroidery, etc., are also famous products, with their own artistic characteristics.