Traditional Culture Encyclopedia - Traditional culture - How did the costumes of different dynasties in China evolve?
How did the costumes of different dynasties in China evolve?
Clothing materials in Shang Dynasty were mainly leather, leather, silk and hemp. Due to the progress of textile technology, silk and linen fabrics have occupied an important position. Shang people were able to weave extremely thin silk, jacquard geometric patterns, tulle and Reno fabrics on twisting looms. This material is very dark in color.
From the anthropomorphic cultural relics unearthed in the Zhou Dynasty, it can be seen that although the clothing decoration is complex and simple, it is clear from top to bottom, which has laid the basic shape of China clothing.
2. Spring and Autumn Period and Warring States Period
During the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period, the clothes of the upper class were broad and the clothes of the lower class were narrow. Deep clothes have the meaning of hiding the body. They are the casual clothes of the literati class at home and the dresses of Shu Ren people, which are unisex.
In 307 BC, King Wuling of Zhao issued the order of Khufu in Qin and Han Dynasties, which promoted riding and shooting in Khufu to facilitate riding and shooting activities.
3. Qin and Han Dynasties
Clothing fabrics in Qin and Han dynasties are still brilliant. Embroidery patterns are mostly mountain clouds, birds and animals or vines. Brocade has various complicated geometric diamond patterns, and the whole pattern is woven with words.
4. Sui and Tang Dynasties
During the Sui and Tang Dynasties, China was unified by division, stable by war and prosperous in economy and culture. The development of clothing, whether it is material or style, presents an unprecedented brilliant scene.
Colorful brocade is a kind of silk woven with various colors and patterns, which is often used as half-arm and collar clothing. Gong Jin, in particular, has the patterns of pheasant, fighting sheep, phoenix and swimming scales, with gorgeous chapter colors.
Embroidery includes five-color embroidery and gold and silver thread embroidery. Printing and dyeing patterns can be divided into multicolor overprint dyeing and monochromatic dyeing. During the Sui and Tang Dynasties, the main characteristics of men's crown clothing were that the upper layer wore robes, the officials wore hoes, and the people wore short shirts.
Until the Five Dynasties, there was little change. Officials in Tian Zi and Guanbai used colors to distinguish grades, and patterns to indicate official ranks. Women's clothing in Sui and Tang Dynasties was full of fashion flavor, which often developed from palace women's clothing to folk, and was imitated in succession, and was often influenced by northwest nationalities.
The most fashionable women's dresses in Sui and Tang Dynasties were chest-length skirts and high-waisted skirts, that is, short-sleeved dresses, which were tied with ribbons and almost reached the armpits.
5. Song Dynasty
There are three styles of Han clothing in Song Dynasty: official clothing, casual clothing and traditional clothing. In the Song Dynasty, Luo was the main fabric of official clothes. Due to the old system of the Five Dynasties, the imperial court gave the pro-expensive ministers brocade robes in different colors every year, such as the carved ball brocade robes of the Seven Song Dynasties.
The colors of official uniforms follow the Tang system, with purple being more than three, Zhu being more than five, green being more than seven and green being more than nine.
The official dress style is roughly similar to the long-sleeved robe in the late Tang Dynasty, but the first dress is a flat-winged black hat called straight foot, which has become customized.
6. Ming dynasty
In the Ming Dynasty, people's clothes were long and short, including shirts or skirts, which basically inherited the tradition and had a very rich variety. In terms of dress color, civilian wives and daughters can only wear purple, green, pink and other colors to avoid mixing with official clothes; Working people are only allowed to use brown.
7. Qing dynasty
The development of women's wear in Qing dynasty, Han nationality and Manchu nationality was different. During Kang Yong period, Han women kept Ming style, while clothes and long skirts were popular in small sleeve. After finishing, the clothes are getting fatter and shorter, the cuffs are getting wider and wider, and with the cloud shoulders, the pattern renovation is endless.
By the end of the Qing Dynasty, urban women had put on skirts and trousers, which were inlaid with lace and rolled teeth, and most expensive clothes were spent on them. Manchu women wear "flag clothes", comb a flag bun and wear "flowerpot bottom" flag shoes. As for the so-called flag dress, which was circulated in later generations, it was mainly used in the court and the royal family for a long time. At the end of the Qing Dynasty and the beginning of the Republic of China, the ladies of the Han nationality also imitated the flag dress.
Extended data:
Influenced by western clothing:
Maybe someone will take the cheongsam in modern women's clothing as an example to prove that women's clothing in China also pays attention to the natural beauty of the human body. In fact, this kind of cheongsam was influenced by the aesthetic taste of western clothing in the first half of this century, and it didn't become the current style until Guangxu period.
The performance of traditional cheongsam in shoulders, chest, waist, arms and buttocks is completely different from that of western women's clothing which highlights the beauty of human body.
Different from western clothing art, China clothing art is not to highlight the beauty of human body, but to fully mobilize artistic modeling and other means to pursue a decorative beauty, that is, spiritual space beyond the body.
Judging from the clothing styles of China before the Qing Dynasty, the wide robe and big sleeves that cover the human body are the mainstream of traditional clothing in China. Even if some people have beautiful bodies, this kind of clothing does not show such beautiful bodies.
Baidu encyclopedia-China clothes
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