Questions about Hanfu

Hanfu, as a "new thing" with thousands of years' history, is undoubtedly unfamiliar to China people today. How many people know Jiao Ling and Entertainment? How many people know about deep clothes and skirts? In the eyes of disbelief and approval, the craze for Hanfu is slowly heating up. People always want to feel the charm of the past after hearing "a long history and splendid culture". Hanfu is the traditional national costume of the Han nationality in China, also known as Hanfu and Huafu. Some people mistakenly think that Hanfu is only the costume of the Han Dynasty. In fact, it mainly refers to the unique cultural characteristics and differences of the Chinese nation formed by natural evolution on the basis of Chinese culture from about 2 1 century BC to the middle of17th century (late Ming and early Qing). In other words, China Traditional Costume (Hanfu) is an overall collection of a series of China (Han) national costumes with strong China (Han) national style from Xia, Shang and Zhou Dynasties to Ming Dynasty. Hanfu is a set of etiquette system including clothes, crowns, hairstyles, ornaments, shoes and ornaments, not just a dress.

The History and Development of Hanfu

Non-physiological cycle

Before the age of archaeological support, some ancient books thought that the Han nationality (and its ancestors) had a unique clothing system.

For example, historical records record that "Hanfu was made by the Yellow Emperor". "Before the Yellow Emperor, there were no clothes and houses. The Yellow Emperor built houses, made clothes and held funerals, so all people were spared from survival. " (Historical Records, Volume I, Chronicle of the Five Emperors, No.1)

Some people think (note: there is not enough archaeological data to support it): About 5,000 years ago, during the Yangshao culture period in the Neolithic Age, primitive agriculture and textile industry appeared in China. People began to make clothes with woven linen, and later invented sericulture and spinning, and people's clothes and costumes became more and more complete. Crown appeared in the era of the Yellow Emperor, and the clothing system gradually formed. After Xia and Shang Dynasties, the system of crown service was initially established and gradually improved in the Western Zhou Dynasty. By the end of the Zhou Dynasty, due to the drastic changes in politics, economy, ideology and culture, especially the influence of a hundred schools of thought on the perfection of clothing, there began to be obvious differences in clothing, clothing and customs among the vassal States. And create deep clothes. The crown service system has been brought into the category of "rule by courtesy" and has become a manifestation of etiquette. Since then, China's clothing system has become more detailed.

Physical cycle

From the Zhou Dynasty to the Ming Dynasty, the basic feature of Han costumes in the past 3,000 years is that there have been no major changes. It was not until the early Qing Dynasty more than 300 years ago that this clothing system collapsed. 1644 After the demise of the Ming Dynasty, in the war with Nanming, in order to weaken the national identity of the Han people and achieve the goal of unifying China, the rulers of the Qing Dynasty vigorously promoted Manchu hairstyles and Manchu costumes, and prohibited the people from wearing Han costumes, which was called "shaving hair and changing clothes" (also known as "shaving hair"). This makes Hanfu gradually die out. At that time, the Duke of Confucius' descendants' feast wrote to Dourgen, asking to keep the clothes of Confucius' family, saying, "A saint is a master of ceremonies ... The most important thing to hold a ceremony is to wear a crown ... but the clothes of ministers have not changed for 3,000 years ...", but Dourgen refused. Today's cheongsam, gown and mandarin jacket are all developed from the improvement of Manchu-dominated national costumes.

After the Revolution of 1911 overthrew the aristocratic rule of Manchu, people's thoughts tended to westernize and changed to western-style clothes, but they did not restore Hanfu. But at the beginning of the 20th century, with the development of China's national strength, people began to examine the excellent parts of their traditional culture. Some people once again advocate the restoration of traditional Hanfu and its popularization in Hanfu.

The Characteristics and Styles of Hanfu

The main characteristics of Hanfu are horizontal collar and right lap. Instead of buttons, they are tied with ropes, giving people an impression of freedom and elegance. These characteristics are obviously different from the costumes of other nationalities. Hanfu can be divided into formal clothes and regular clothes. From the shape point of view, there are mainly three kinds: "top and bottom clothes" (ancient top refers to bottom skirt), "deep clothes" (top and bottom clothes are sewn together) and "skirt" (short clothes). Among them, the coronation under the coat is the most solemn and formal dress for emperors and officials; Robes (deep clothes) are generally worn by officials and scholars, while skirts are worn by women. Ordinary working people generally wear short clothes and trousers.

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Headdress is one of the important parts of Han costumes.

Ancient Han men and women put their hair in a bun and fixed it on their heads. Men often wear crowns, towels, hats and so on. , different shapes.

Women's hair can also be combed into various styles, and they can wear all kinds of beading, walking and other accessories. Both sides of the temple are decorated with rich temples, and some of them wear curtains and hijab.

The Influence of Hanfu on the Clothing of Other Nationalities in China

▲ Emperor Xiaowen of the Northern Wei Dynasty banned wearing Xianbei clothes and changed to Hanfu.

65438+1October 65438+March 495 (the second day of December in the eighteenth year of Taihe). Emperor Xiaowen of the Northern Wei Dynasty vigorously promoted a series of sinicization policies, the main contents of which are: 1. It is forbidden to wear Xianbei clothes, and all will be changed to Hanfu. It is forbidden to speak Xianbei dialect, and Chinese is the only spoken language. 3. Xianbei people who moved to Luoyang were born in Luoyang and buried in Luoyang after their death. They are not allowed to be buried in Pingcheng. 4. Change Xianbei surname to Han surname. Starting with the royal family, Tuoba was renamed yuanshi county County. The rest of the changes can't be beaten (remember). It is also stipulated that the eight surnames of Xianbei are equivalent to the four surnames of Cui, Lu, Li and Zheng, the first-class aristocrats of Han people, and the nobles other than the eight surnames of Xianbei are also rated. So that Xianbei nobles also implemented the gate valve system like the Han nationality. 5. It is forbidden for Xianbei people to marry with the same surname, and Xianbei people are encouraged to marry Han people according to their family status. Emperor Xiaowen also took the lead, taking the woman with the most Chinese surnames as his concubine, and marrying the woman with the most Chinese surnames for his five imperial brothers and the princess with the most Chinese surnames as his wife.

Despite the obstruction and opposition of some Xianbei nobles. Emperor Xiaowen's reform was finally successful, which greatly promoted national integration. After only a few decades, Xianbei and other ethnic minorities in the Central Plains have basically merged with the Han nationality.

▲ Japanese kimono

During the Nara period in Japan, that is, during the prosperous Tang Dynasty in China, Japan sent a large number of Tang Dynasty envoys to China to study the culture, art and law of China, including the system of dressing. At that time, they also issued a "clothing order" imitating the Tang system. Until now, the Japanese still refer to embroidery and other textiles as "five clothes", which means that it comes from Wudi, China (now Jiangsu and Zhejiang). The early kimono was a copy of the Tang suit, and the later twelve coats were also called "Tang suit" (Lee's Korean dress coat was also called Tang suit, although both of them had more national characteristics). Although kimono developed from Hanfu, it has formed its own national characteristics after a long historical period. For example, after the Edo era, women's belts gradually became wider and larger, and the drum section of the belt moved backward, showing various styles, which is also the main symbol to distinguish kimono from Hanfu. The decorative patterns on kimono fabrics often have distinctive Japanese national characteristics.

▲ Traditional costumes of the Korean Peninsula

South Korea said? (Hanbok), North Korea (referring to North Korea) said

During the Tang Dynasty, Silla was closely related to the Tang Dynasty, and its dress characteristics were almost the same as those of the Tang Dynasty. After Lee's mid-Korean period, Korean costumes, especially women's dresses, developed into high-waisted skirts, and the difference between them gradually increased. However, official clothes, court clothes and important court dresses still retain many Hanfu systems, which change with the changes of Hanfu. For example, the black veil of officials in the Tang Dynasty was tied with a drooping belt, and Silla officials sighed. For example, the costumes of kings, princesses and officials in the Li Dynasty were all made in the Ming Dynasty (although there were some changes in coronation, dynasties, sacrificial clothes and supplementary clothes, they were retained in the Ming Dynasty as a whole, especially in coronation, officials in the military and officials, and sacrificial clothes, which were retained in the Ming Dynasty before the clothing reform in the eighth year of Jiajing in Ming Dynasty). The main differences between modern Hanbok and Hanbok are: Hanbok generally has a right collar and double-breasted (V-neck), while Korean clothing (such as cross collar) has developed into a small V-neck; The women's dress is very tall, and the hem is very wide and fluffy. The long belt is also its obvious feature. In recent years, there have been improved hanbok (also called life hanbok), mostly men's clothing, which is more common in South Korea today and farther away from hanbok.

Hanfu and Network Culture

In recent years, many young netizens met online and then agreed to meet Hanfu in public.

In recent years, with a youth as the main body and the Internet as the carrier, a movement of "restoring Hanfu" has been launched. And caused great repercussions and controversy together. We focus on the following issues:

▲ Although the national costumes of the Han nationality are influenced by other national costumes, their basic national characteristics have not changed, but the habits of wearing popular colors and varieties are different in different dynasties.

The traditional costumes of all ethnic groups have developed from ancient times and are the embodiment of nationality and tradition. Hanfu is the traditional national costume of Han nationality and the representative of national traditional culture. Hanfu is also the carrier of Chinese culture. In modern society, people are increasingly aware of the role of traditional culture in the harmonious development of society. The implementation of Hanfu is conducive to the inheritance and development of the traditional culture of the Han nationality and to improving national cohesion and pride. It is necessary to restore Hanfu in modern times. You can wear Hanfu dresses and uniforms at festivals, grand celebrations, weddings, birthdays, funerals and leisure time with national characteristics.

▲ Mat coat and cheongsam are the improvement and continuation of Manchu costumes, which are very different from the traditional national costumes of the Han nationality and cannot represent the traditional culture of the Han nationality.

Mandarin jacket, cheongsam and Hanfu are all national costumes in China, which reflect the richness of traditional culture in China.

▲ Hanfu Movement strictly abides by national laws, and it is forbidden to insult and belittle the words and deeds of other fraternal peoples. Hanfu is a member of 56 ethnic costume families.

▲ Cross lapel right lapel is the mainstream, and sometimes there are lapel, lapel, lapel and lapel styles. Under the coat, it is made of deep clothes. Hidden buttons are rarely used, and they are basically fixed with belts. Even if there are buttons, they are hidden in invisible places or places that are rarely seen. In Hanfu, pure black and pure white have special meanings, so it is not allowed to show people in all-black or all-white clothes casually.

▲ Hanfu is not an ancient feudal system. Nor is it a retro trend of social fashion. It is a national costume revived by the Han nationality in modern China, and it will have the same status as other 55 national costumes in China.

▲ Hanfu is not used as a daily costume, but is worn in different etiquette, culture and festivals.

Hanfu style

Hanfu retro people often wear Hanfu styles: Qu, straight, high waist skirt, overskirt, round neck gown, scorpion, Zhu Shen clothes, etc.

● Ququ: It was popular in Qin and Han Dynasties and basically disappeared in Sui and Tang Dynasties. In the Ming Dynasty, it belonged to "ancient costume".

● Straight hair: it was popular in Qin and Han Dynasties, and later many styles were derived, such as straight hair, straight hair and so on. Japan and obedience to this model have learned a lot.

● High-waisted skirt: Women's fashion in Sui and Tang Dynasties, aristocratic hairpin dresses popular at the same time, is the originator of Japanese twelve kimonos. At the same time, the style of high waist skirt has a far-reaching impact on Korean clothing. Japanese kimono was basically shaped in the Tang Dynasty.

● Skirt: As a female costume, it was a basic style in almost every dynasty.

● T-shirt: Since the Tang Dynasty, it has basically become a style that people with status and status are qualified to wear. The official uniforms of the Song and Ming Dynasties were basically round necks. Moreover, during the Ming Dynasty, almost all the court costumes of the Lee Dynasty in South Korea were copied from the Ming Dynasty. Hanbok in South Korea was finally finalized in the Ming Dynasty.

● Zongzi: It was popular in Song and Ming Dynasties. Zongzi with big sleeves was popular in Song Dynasty, and the seams were basically inlaid with lace. Zongzi in small sleeve was popular in Ming Dynasty.

● Zhu Xi's deep coat: that is, the traditional coat and skirt are cut separately, but stitched into a whole called a deep coat. Zhu's deep clothes are generally worn by literati.

Duan Xuan: Chinese tuxedo, traditional big dress.

Specific classification and basic characteristics

Basically, it can be divided into four categories: skirt type, deep-clothes type and long-sleeved type.

In fact, there is basically no difference between these four styles, which are divided into you, me and you. It is only because of the slight differences in dressing methods and some structures that several styles have a long-term place in history and have a wide influence, mainly because they are the most basic styles and the basic sources of Hanfu, and many later new styles are divided for this reason. )

A dress: (This is the origin of Hanfu)

Separate the upper and lower parts. Clothes above, petticoat below. This is what we call clothes now. Clothes and dresses are two different colors.

1 component: white undershirt, waist-length right button or double-breasted top; White petticoat, knee-length curtain, wide skirt to cover feet (the skirt can be wrinkled), belt and ribbon to wear.

2 How to wear it: After putting on the undershirt and blouse, wrap the enclosed petticoat around the blouse (that is, the blouse must be tucked into the skirt) and tie the belt. Only dresses and skirts are dressed in the same way. Finally, when everything is dressed, tie the last belt and hang a ribbon in the middle of the belt. Generally speaking, the seam in the skirt is at the back.

3 skirt components:

Waist of a skirt: the head end of a skirt. It can also be the same color as the skirt, or it can be different (it is mostly white when it is different). The waist of skirts in Ming Dynasty was mostly white elastic band.

B skirt

C can also have no skirt and waist

4 curtain type classification:

Azhiluan

B qu qu

C pleating (just feels like a folding fan. Of course it's cloth. Not so exaggerated)

D tuxedo (shaped like a swallow's tail, just like the skirt of a tap dancing woman's skirt, which was only available to women in Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties)

Of course, the latter three belong to artistic modeling, but perhaps women wear more clothes, and only the first one is the most common.

5 Other decorations hanging on the skirt: Generally speaking, the lack of rude behavior, such as untidy clothes, which was considered in the prevailing period of Zhou Rites, has different hanging methods. What kind of Yu Pei people should wear needs careful and complicated research, but it is usually hung on the left and right sides of the belt; Secondly, the tie is probably just a late decoration, mostly used by women.

6 Summary: At the beginning, skirts and dresses were not limited to men and women. Both men and women wear the same clothes, but later, men's skirts and dresses are gradually replaced by long dresses and robes, and gradually retreat from daily life to ritual sacrifices, which is an indispensable costume in Hanfu. After the Han Dynasty, Nvzihan obeyed the one-piece deep dress and returned to the previous two-piece separate wearing method. Sui and Tang Dynasties was actually a kind of skirt, but the skirt was shorter and longer (actually a short coat). It is actually a coat hidden in a skirt. The most important thing to distinguish a skirt from a dress is to see if the lower body is a skirt. Only by separating it from the upper and lower parts can we think that there is no need for a more detailed distinction.

Ershenyishi

According to the major categories, a deep coat can actually be regarded as a kind of skirt, because it has a skirt under it. But because the coat is very long, it is not stuffed in the skirt but scattered outside. Moreover, this style has a unique way of wearing it. So the coat is called a deep coat (deep coat can be divided into straight tube and curved tube). But straight purlin removed the lower skirt, which is actually not much different from the gown worn by men later, so it is just a song)

1 component: a coat that tilts below the knee, a wide skirt that covers the feet, and a belt.

2 dressing style: because it is very complicated, look at the archaeological research of Mawangdui. Basically, after the collar is handed in, the clothes are wrapped around the legs, and then the waist mentioned in the corner of the clothes is tied with a belt.

3 Summary: There is no difference between men and women in deep clothes. Both men and women wore the same deep clothes in Han Dynasty. However, it may be better for boys to wear straight lines and girls to wear curves (because curves can better show girls' figure), but it is obviously wrong to let boys wear skirts now, so in order to keep pace with the times, girls had better wear skirts and boys had better put on ordinary pants.

Three dress styles

In fact, there is no difference in style between the four categories mentioned by our ancestors, but only in their different clothes. Everything evolved from skirts and dresses. What is a robe? This is a right-handed (cross-collared) dress, which just lengthens the coat and covers the feet. To put it bluntly, it is a long coat.

1 component: white undershirt and white petticoat; A right-breasted or round neck coat or belt for covering feet.

2 How to wear it: White undershirts and petticoats should be put on as skirts first, and then put on a gown.

Summary: A dress can be worn with or without a belt. Later, it became a men's uniform, and there were no more skirts, pants and leggings below.

Four-stroke style

In fact, it's also a gown, just a common form of collar, so it feels different from the gown of Youyi, but it's different from the gown: it's slightly shorter and split left and right (which is convenient for activities). Some women even slit under their armpits, and unlike long gowns, they usually don't wear belts because they are super casual.

1 component: knee-length double-breasted coat, trousers or wide skirt.

Conclusion: There are differences between men and women with children. Men wear pants and women wear wide skirts.

No matter how these categories change, several characteristics always run through them:

A Hanfu collar:

1 right-handed: also called handover.

A is the most primitive feature and the most obvious symbol of Hanfu, which lasted from the beginning of Hanfu's birth to the end of Ming Dynasty. Hanfu, which lacks the characteristics of right hand, cannot be called Hanfu at all. The wearing method of Hanfu right-back is the core of Hanfu, and other accessories and wearing methods can be said to revolve around this.

B how to wear it: put on Hanfu and cross the collar. The right collar is on the top, the left collar is on the bottom, and the right collar presses the left collar so that the left and right collars cross. To the waist, tie the belt at the lower corner of the right collar with the belt at the left waist and tie a knot. It is called a cross collar because it is X-shaped when the left and right collars overlap (if the material is transparent) and Y-shaped when it is opaque.

2 pairs of collars

Although influenced by other ethnic factors, it gradually became the mainstream in the Song and Ming Dynasties. Collars are different from right-handed shirts and round necks. In a sense, it can be said that there is no collar, because it is straight to the tail of the coat, which is simpler and more convenient. Historically, it is mostly used for heroines.

B How to wear it: After wearing Hanfu, tie the belts on the left and right collars directly into a knot without overlapping the collars.

C collar classification:

A one is the most common one, reaching the tail of the coat in the shape of II. As for the part of the belt, it can be at the upper end, middle end and end. Generally in the middle end, because it is relatively stable.

B The other is that the collared collar is open to the chest, and the rest of the coat belts are naturally unfolded in a Y shape at the end of the collar (so that the symbol belts are where the two lines meet to form a line). This kind of double-breasted button is similar to the collar of hanbok now. This kind of collar is mainly used for hemming.

3 round neck

A The first two kinds are mostly used for uniforms, round necks and dresses. Although there is no gender difference between different collars, round neck is still used by men more.

B mode of wearing: after wearing Hanfu, the right half covers the left part to the shoulder in the upper left part and the lower right part, and the belt at the right collar and the belt at the left shoulder are tied together to form a knot.

Note 1: The belt is equal to the current button belt, mainly the fixed top. Skirts are mainly fixed skirts.

Erhanfu sleeves

1 wide sleeves: wide sleeves are the big sleeves we see on Hanfu. Semi-arc with cuffs. There is still a difference between the square sleeves and kimono. It is one of the most primitive sleeves of Hanfu. In Han Dynasty, the cuff part was redundant relative to the whole sleeve, and the color was different from the whole sleeve part. Generally speaking, it is the same color as a skirt. But later, the protruding cuffs were gradually hidden, and only the hands were allowed to stick out, but the bottom was stitched together. This is to reduce the wind on the sleeves. I don't know how cold it will be if the whole sleeve is open! But in the Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties, due to the influence of ideology and culture, the whole sleeve was open to show its elegant and free nature. But in modern times, Hanfu that can be worn in winter has cuffs, and the whole sleeve can be opened in summer.

Arrow sleeve: also called Hu sleeve, from. Basically, they are very narrow sleeves, similar to modern ones. Why is it called an arrow sleeve? Because it is shaped like an arrow, the upper end is wider and the lower end is narrower.

3 Curved sleeve: Curved sleeve is a part without sleeve. Generally speaking, there are more sleeves in a coat with a collar. Right-handed and round neck shirts rarely have sleeves.

San Han yi fu yuan

The edge of clothes is the edge of clothes. The hem is an important symbol of Hanfu, and it is also an important feature that distinguishes Hanfu from kimono. Although kimono also has a skirt, it has no color. The skirt of Hanfu is another color different from the main color of the clothes.

B. clothing and fate category (by gender):

Men's skirts are mainly a single color. The colors you choose should be dignified and solid dark tones like brown, black, blue and gray, with less bright and light colors.

B Women's skirts can be decorated with embroidery and other patterns. If it is a single color, take more bright colors.

Four hanfu pieces

A If Hanfu is divided from the outside to the inside, it can be divided into blouses, similar to windbreaker cloaks. The formal part worn on a uniform. Underwear is actually a shirt. The style of underwear is the same as that of the coat worn outside, except that it is mostly a white right collar (don't pajamas now also absorb the style of right collar? Because of this, I feel that the collar is very comfortable, although it is very comfortable to show too large a round neck, which is as uncomfortable as a uniform. ) Generally, you don't hang your coat, just put sleeves on your arms and wear them on your body.

B blouse classification:

A long - sleeved shirt

A sleeveless coat just hangs on you.

A long smock for mopping the floor

I can only reach a coat with a little shorter knee.