Qing Dynasty Fabrics

Textile crafts Ming and Qing Dynasties silk, linen, cotton, wool textile, printing and dyeing and embroidery, directly related to the clothing of the entire nation, so there is the broadest mass base, folk weaving and embroidery everywhere, in this strong foundation established on the weaving, dyeing, embroidery and other industries, has a vigorous vitality. Its production center for Suzhou, Jiangning (now Nanjing) and Hangzhou and other places. Suzhou, Jiangning more production heavy warp or weft color jacquard silk fabric - brocade. Suzhou brocade, pattern imitation of the Song Dynasty brocade pattern, style beautiful and elegant, also known as Song brocade. Jiangning brocade, heavy texture, with a gold wire hook edge, colorful, broad momentum, the use of light to dark halo color matching method, as if the brilliant clouds, so there is the reputation of the cloud brocade. Brocade in the Qing Dynasty, the pattern is more elaborate and exquisite, the more colorful and elegant, back halo iteration, endless changes, appearing more and more colorful and harmonious. Zhejiang is famous for its plain weaving, and Suzhou is famous for its makeup flowers. Make-up flower system using "dig flower" technology, can change color at any time, up to more than 20 kinds. The change of the loom for the Ming Hongzhi years in Fujian loom worker Lin Hong satin weaving, may be 4 layers of satin machine weaving double-layer hollow bag-shaped fabric. Woof in the Ming Dynasty has a variety of techniques, such as phoenix-tail bump, and in the Qing Dynasty, Suzhou woof is the most famous, in addition to imitation woof celebrities painting and calligraphy, but also woof for clothing, curtains, screens, cushions, bags and so on. Double-sided woof is more difficult, in order to cut corners, Qianlong woof even use the pen to outline the details, the result is counterproductive, cutting off its artistic life. The rapid development of the embroidery industry in Ming and Qing Dynasties has formed different local specialties, such as Gu Embroidery, Suzhou Embroidery, Hunan Embroidery, Guangdong Embroidery, Shu Embroidery and Beijing Embroidery. Gu embroidery began in Shanghai during the Jiajing period of the Ming Dynasty in the Gu family, hence its name. Gu embroidery is famous for its combination of embroidery and painting, and the items woven by it were y appreciated and admired by many painters and calligraphers such as Dong Qichang, who was a famous artist at that time, and it was famous for being the only embroidery school of the literati at that time and influencing the future generations. Suzhou embroidery is characterized by fine stitches and elegant colors, and its craftsmanship pays attention to flush and fine, even and smooth, and light, and the pattern mostly adopts the method of pushing and haloing on different surfaces, which is richly decorative. Hunan embroidery in the late Qing Dynasty to form an independent system, realistic style, to the beast as the theme of the most characteristic works, its needlework with the needle, the same time to double print, four prints, Qi, soft and a series of needlework, the embroidered objects rich in realism. Cantonese embroidery is based on the theme of birds and chickens, with elaborate patterns and rich colors, which has a unique effect. Shu embroidery, centered in Chengdu, is loved for its neat and heavy threads and bright colors. Beijing embroidery is centered on royal embroidery, with the royal family as the service object, and the embroidery is exquisite and rich. In addition, like Beijing thread embroidery and Shandong, Hebei embroidery and other clothing thread embroidery is also quite local style. Printing and dyeing industry at this time has been all over the country towns and cities, developed technology, rich in color, there are mainly dyed silk, clip valance, batik, blue and white printed cloth, oil color printed cloth, roller printed cloth, watering cloth and other varieties. Woolen felts are most prevalent in ethnic minority areas such as Mongolia, Tibet and Uyghur, and are rich in their own national characteristics. Suzhou is famous for its good imitation weaving of foreign carpets. Most of the textile, printing and dyeing, embroidery and weaving of the ethnic minorities are done by women's hands, because most of them are for their own use, so they do what they want and are not conventional. Zhuang brocade of the Zhuang, Uygur Hui Hui brocade, Hetian silk, gold and silver thread carpet, Tibetan serge, Miao batik, Li, Kazakh and other ethnic embroidery are the treasures of the handicrafts of the various ethnic groups.

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Textile industry in the Qing Dynasty:

The Yuan, Ming and Qing dynasties all set up official weaving bureaus in Nanjing to supervise the textile industry, exclusively for the imperial court.

Qing dynasty in jiangning, suzhou and hangzhou, three places set up, specializing in the court and the official use of various types of textiles weaving bureau. Management of weaving Yamen political affairs of the Ministry of the Interior officials, also known as weaving.

Ming Dynasty in the three old weaving bureau, long suspended. Qing Shunzhi two years (1645) to restore the Jiangning Weaving Bureau; Hangzhou Bureau and Suzhou Bureau were rebuilt in four years. Eight years to establish a "buy silk recruiting craftsmen" system of operation system, and become a generation of the Qing dynasty Jiangnan three weaving bureau of customization.

Weaving Bureau called only the Palace Imperial subordinate institutions, the real folk textile factory called the machine room, "machine households to contribute to the machine workers to contribute to the effort", is an important form of budding capitalism in the Ming and Qing dynasties. Zhang Han's "pine window dream language" has been recorded.

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Screen

The Qing dynasty desktop screen from the ancient screen evolved, usually by the screen frame, screen heart, carved base. The base to rosewood, mahogany, chicken fin wood and other precious wood as the main body, it is generally round, long and square shape. The front of the center of the screen is usually inlaid with inlays, jade, pearls, ivory and other materials to depict landscapes and figures. The back is usually engraved with poems and the date of creation. The carvings on the base are mostly fish, bats, longevity characters and other symbols of good fortune and longevity. In the Qing Dynasty, the desktop screen was gradually reduced in size, while the production was more elaborate and precise. The picture is gorgeous and varied, the lines are harmonious and smooth, set inlays, carvings and poems and paintings and other forms of art in one, is a typical representative of the Qing Dynasty screen art heyday, is a very decorative function of the work of art.

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The brocade:

The center of China's silk weaving production in the Ming and Qing dynasties has been transferred to the south of the Yangtze River, brocade production in Suzhou is the most famous. Suzhou brocade weaving is fine, but also because of the color with the elegant legacy of the Song Dynasty and the name "Song brocade". Qing Kangxi years, someone from Jiangsu Taixing Ji's family purchased the Song Dynasty "Chunhua Pavilion Post" ten book, uncovered its original frame on the Song Dynasty brocade 22 kinds, resold Suzhou machine to copy the pattern, and improve the process of production, the name of the Suzhou Song brocade by the more prosperous. At this time, Suzhou Song brocade with double warp will be the ground warp and special warp (grain warp) separate, to the ground warp weaving warp surface twill or plain pattern of the ground organization. Special warp every two, three, six ground warp into one, in the flower part of the weft and grain weaving or weaving into the weft twill, no flower weaving into the back, used to fix floating weft. The weft is woven by a long shuttle with a short running shuttle for changing colors in sections, so as to achieve the effect of rich colors. Suzhou Song brocade according to the craftsmanship of coarse and fine, the advantages and disadvantages of the material, the thickness of the fabric and the use of performance, and is divided into heavy brocade, fine color brocade, box brocade 3 kinds.

Heavy brocade is the most expensive varieties of Song brocade in the Ming and Qing dynasties. Selection of high-quality ripe color silk, twisted gold thread, piece of gold thread, in the three twill ground organization, by the special warp and grain weft interwoven into three weft twill flower. The pattern is generally woven with many long weaving shuttles of various colors, and in some parts with short running shuttles. For example, the Palace Museum in Beijing preserved the Kangxi Qing dynasty "cloud ground treasure phase lotus heavy brocade", the ground and special warp is moon white, long weaving pattern weft with dark green, light grass green, lake blue, jade (with egg green white), blue, moon white (very light light blue), incense (yellowish brown), yellow, snow green (light green lotus color), brown, pink, Light pink, white, twisted gold threads, such as 14 long weaving shuttle and a big red special running shuttle (only weaved at regular intervals) to weave, the colors are brilliant and spectacular, this heavy brocade is the court to make bedding and furnishings materials.

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Woof:

Woof (Kè) silk (English translation: silk tapestry with cut designs, textile English Dictionary: K Kè silk (English translation: silk tapestry with cut designs, textile English Dictionary: K'o-ssu, K'o-ssy), also known as "carve silk", "Kè silk" or "resonance silk", the text is different from the same sound. In the old days, it was also known as "long carve silk", "carve silk for", "carve color" and so on. Woof in the overseas also have other names "embellish brocade", "embellish weaving", "woven into brocade" and so on. The Jade Chapter says: "Woof, weaving also." Due to the weaving of the works in the pattern and plain ground joints slightly high and low, showing a crack, as if carved from, so called "carved silk". The finished product is as one on both sides, which is similar to the double-sided embroidery of Suzhou embroidery. With embroidery, jade carving and ivory carving, cloisonné and known as China's four major specialty crafts, and with the cloud brocade is known as China's two major treasures of handmade silk fabrics. It is known as the "Saint of Weaving" and "An inch of woof is an inch of gold". Because it can withstand the test of history, it is also known as the "millennium not bad art of weaving".

The Qing Dynasty, woof artwork are used woof, painting combination, unique, creating a number of exquisite works, such as woof artwork "three stars", "eight immortals to celebrate longevity map" and so on. It is especially worth mentioning that, during the Qing Dynasty, poems and texts were used throughout the woof on the surface, such as the "Imperial Three Stars Figure" on the upper section of the woof of the Qianlong Emperor's "Three Stars Ode" and the "Years of the Chao Figure", and the lower section of the blue clerical Qianlong Imperial Years of the Chao Poem, the text of the calligraphy woofing is very fine, which shows the skill of the famous craftsmen.

The late Qing Dynasty, with the weakening of the country, China's modern wars, the woof industry appeared on the verge of extinction, woof shoddy work inundated the city, even if the palace used things are rare fine.

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Yun brocade:

Jiangnan brocade: in the Qing dynasty in Nanjing, there is a "Jiangning Weaving Department", the "Dream of the Red Chamber" by Cao Xueqin. Dream of Red Mansions" author Cao Xueqin's grandfather, Cao Yin, had been Jiangning Weaver for 20 years. This period of brocade varieties, solemn patterns, colorful, representing the history of Nanjing brocade weaving process of the highest achievement.

Nanjing Yun brocade is one of the national traditional arts and crafts treasures of the most good and perfect. WuCunMei has a poem is used to describe the Nanjing YunJin: "JiangNan good, loom take heavenly work, peacock makeup flower YunJin rotten, ice silkworms spit phoenix fog raw silk empty, the new kind of small group of dragon." Nanjing brocade is the traditional jacquard silk crafts in Nanjing, which is the first of the "three treasures" of Nanjing crafts. Nanjing brocade with up to eighteen colors, the use of "color halo" layer by layer to launch the main flower, rich and elegant, solid texture, pattern thick and beautiful, colorful and solemn, the use of a large number of gold threads, the formation of a unique style of gold and blue. Due to the material is exquisite, fine weaving, elegant and colorful pattern, like the heavenly clouds of magnificence, so it is called "cloud brocade". Modern only Nanjing production, often called "Nanjing brocade". So far, it has a history of 1580 years. Nanjing brocade and Chengdu's Shu brocade, Suzhou's Song brocade, Guangxi's Zhuang brocade and called "China's four great brocades" (and Suzhou woof and known as "two great brocades").

In ancient silk fabrics, brocade is a fabric representing the highest technical level. "Jin" word, is "gold" word and "silk" word combination, "interpretation of the name - Cai silk": "Jin, gold. Made of heavy work, its price is like gold. Therefore, only the honored one can serve." This is to say, Jin is luxurious and expensive silk, in ancient times, only the dignitaries can afford to wear.

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Chinese dress characteristics:

Manchu's flag dress, the outer outline of a rectangle, saddle-shaped collar to cover the cheeks of the face, clothes up and down not to take the waist, the shirt does not show outside. Partial overlap right overlay to disk newels for decoration, false sleeves two to three, horseshoe sleeves cover hand, inlaid roll craft decorations, clothing plus clothing, increase the kangshi or waistcoat. Its modeling is complete and rigorous, closed box-shaped body, so the image of solemn and dignified, high and unusual, and unique, breaking through the thousands of years of floating tower-shaped crown. To this day, it also has a certain influence on modern clothing. Especially with the development of the times, after processing the curve highlights the long and beautiful cheongsam, has formed a representative of the Han national dress, showing the Oriental women's tenderness and connotation, with the value of eternal existence.

The cheongsam or short dress has several different forms such as pipa placket, big placket and pair placket. The matching skirt or pants are decorated with all-over prints, embroideries and tucks. The lapel, collar and sleeve edges were decorated with inlays, rolls and embroideries. In the early Qing Dynasty, Manchu women dressed similarly to men, except that they wore ears in buns and unmarried women wore braids. Manchu women do not wrap their feet, do not wear skirts, clothes outside the shoulders and shirt level, long shirt within a small garment, equivalent to the Han women's bibs, clothes outside the clothes, also known as "wulong".

Traditional national costumes - cheongsam and waistcoat

The waistcoat and cheongsam are typical costumes for men and women in the Qing Dynasty. They have now become the traditional costumes of China.

The waistcoat is a short garment worn outside the robe, the length of the garment to the umbilicus, the sleeves only cover the elbow, mainly to facilitate horseback riding, so it is called "waistcoat". When the Manchus first entered the customs, limited to the eight banners soldiers to wear. Until the Kangxi and Yongzheng years, only began to popularize in the community, and the development of a single, folder, yarn, leather, cotton and other garments, to become a men's civilian clothes, can be worn by the public. Afterwards, it gradually evolved into a ceremonial clothing, regardless of identity, are set in the robes outside the coat, appear elegant and generous.

The style of the waistcoat has three types: pipa placket, big placket and lapel. Pipa lapel coat, because of its right lapel shortage, also known as the lack of lapel coat, wearing it can move freely, commonly used to make traveling clothes. The large-breasted waistcoat, on the other hand, has its lapel open on the right side and is surrounded by a different color as the edge, and is generally used as a regular dress. Lapel coat, the color of the service in various periods there are a variety of changes: the first along the sky green, to the middle of the Qianlong period, but also rose purple, and then promote the deep reddish-red color (known as the "blessed color"), to the Jiaqing years, it is popular in the mud gold and light gray. Large-sleeved lapel coat can be used as a dress instead of a coat, the color is mostly azure, the size of the officials in the guest often wear this dress, because of its long sleeves and narrow, also known as the "long-sleeved coat".

There is a color in the waistcoat can not be used casually, that is yellow. The yellow waistcoat was a special gift from the emperor. Wearing this kind of clothing, there are three main categories: one is with the emperor "tour" of the guards, known as the "duty lab coat"; two is the line around the school shooting, in the target or more than those who were hunted, known as the "line around the lab coat "; Third, in the governance or war with meritorious achievements, known as the" martial arts coat ", these people will also be recorded in the annals of history. Only this imperial coat can be worn at any time.

The cheongsam is a rich ethnic flavor of women's clothing, the evolution of Manchu women's robes. Since the Manchu people are called "cheongsam", it is called "cheongsam". In the Qing Dynasty, women's clothing can be said to be Manchu and Han coexisted. At the beginning of the Qing Dynasty, Manchu women to robes, and Han Chinese women are still on the dress under the skirt for the fashion; the middle of the Qing Dynasty, the Manchu and Han have imitated; to the late Qing Dynasty, the Manchu imitation of the Han's style, and even appeared "half of the flag dress to change the Han's clothes, the palace robes cut off as a short garment," the situation, and the Han Chinese imitation of the Manchu dress style, but also at this time in some of the dignitary Noblewomen popularized.