Ancient Chinese Clothing Culture

Han National Clothing

The Manchu Qing Dynasty brought about a major change in the face of Han Chinese clothing, sending the Han national crown garments, which had lasted for two to three thousand years, to the grave. In the second year of Shunzhi, the Qing army captured the provinces in the south of the Yangtze River, and the Qing government has since ordered the implementation of the system of shaving the head and changing the clothes throughout the country. The Qing government ordered, from the date of the arrival of the official documents, within 10 days to all men to shave their heads, combing braids, if there is "still the Ming system, do not follow the system of the dynasty who kill without pardon." In conjunction with this is forced to change the Han Chinese clothing style. At that time, countless people were arrested and killed for wearing Han Chinese clothes. The Han Chinese resisted the Qing government's order and resistance was rampant. The long-term resistance struggle and the Manchu Qing Dynasty has unified the country's situation so that the Qing government also considered some concessions to stabilize the situation. So it put forward "ten from ten not from", namely: clothing male from female not from, life from death not from, yang from yin not from, official from subordinate not from, the old from the young not from, Confucianism from monasticism not from, advocate from the actor not from. And: the official from the eunuch from the marriage, the state from the official name, the service from the tax from the language and writing. This limited concession has finally preserved some of the characteristics of Han Chinese clothing.

One, the style of Han national costume

Men's style:

1) Since the "yellow emperor hanging clothes and the world rule" passed down the big lapel right overlapping cross-collar wide robe with big sleeves BoYi wrapped with the kind of (Qin and Han clothing as a representative of the), the continuation of the Xia, Shang, Zhou (Spring and Autumn and Warring States), Qin, Han, Three Kingdoms, the two Jin, the North and South Dynasties, Sui, Tang, and the two Jin, and the two Jin, and the two Jin. North and South Dynasties, Sui, Tang, Five Dynasties, Song, Mongol Yuan, Ming. It also influenced Japan and Korea. The most common style of Japanese kimono is this.

2) Since the Sui and Tang Dynasties, the round neck shirt (worn by Emperor Li Shimin of Tang Dynasty) continued to be popular in Tang, Five Dynasties, Song, Yuan and Ming. And influenced Japan, Korea and other countries. It was worn by Emperor Taizu of Song and Emperor Taizu of Ming. To this day, the Emperor of Japan wears a variant of this type of Hanbok for certain occasions.

Women's dresses are relatively more varied, but there are only two basic styles

1) the large lapel with a right overlay and a cross-necked collar (also represented by the Qin and Han costumes).

2) Sui and Tang Dynasty, the rise of the big lapel low-cut this, with the Qin and Han deep clothes is different from the dress is divided into the upper garment under the clothes, not like the deep clothes as clothes together. These two types of women's clothing styles have a great influence on the Song and Ming Dynasties, as well as the Japanese and Korean national costumes (women's clothing).

Han women in the Sui and Tang dynasties also wore narrow-sleeved, tight-fitting, collared huqi, but those huqi were basically as popular? Pake the emperor choked the crane dang? The corset is the most important thing in the world. The most important thing is that we can not criticize the people who are in the same situation as we are. What's the best way to get the most out of your life? The cleaners have been in a state of shock and fear, but they are still in a state of shock and fear.

Qin, Han, Tang, Song and Ming costumes are a little different in some places, but the main part is the same. Western Han's deep clothes and the basic style of the Ming dynasty Hanfu is the same, but in the minutiae there are different. *** nature is the big lapel right overlooking cross-collar wide robe with big sleeves Bo clothes wrapped with. In fact, like the big lapel right over lapel wide robe with big sleeves BoYiZhuanBi kind of hanbok in the Tang Dynasty period Han people still wear, but in the north centered on Chang'an to round neck mainly, and in the WuYue area is both, Song and Ming similar. The Japanese kimono was introduced during the Hida Nara period (Tang Dynasty period in China) and developed into the Japanese kimono of today.

The style of Han Chinese clothing

If we compare the Han Chinese with the European peoples, we will find that the two are obviously different in many aspects. The general style of Han Chinese clothing for thousands of years has been based on simplicity and lightness. This style is best embodied in the ancient saturnine garments of the Han people, the main feature of which is the wide embrace and big sleeves, the commendable clothes and the wide belts, although the form is simple, but as soon as one puts it on one's body one is the same as the other, and the appearance of one's face is different, and the plasticity is very strong. Although we can't see the prototype of this kind of clothing, but we can still from the Han Dynasty silk paintings and the Wei, Jin, Sui and Tang Dynasty left some of the figure paintings in the glimpse of one of its divine appearance - the simple shape of the Han suit coat attached to the different body figures suddenly have a kind of vivid vitality, soft and smooth lines, people The lines are soft and smooth, which makes people think of it. The simple and easy attire adds a natural charm to them. Robe fully embodies the Han nationality soft and elegant and elegant, the national character, as well as plain and natural, subtle and euphemistic, elegant and fresh aesthetic taste.

Three Qing Dynasty after the establishment of why to force the Han people to shave their hair and easy to wear?

According to common sense, what clothes to wear, what hairstyle and rule does not have much to do, but the Manchurians into the customs and the establishment of the Qing Dynasty gave them a new connotation. The Han people can not accept the foreign rule is not mainly because of the countryside into the hands of foreigners, but because the Han people from the bottom of their hearts look down on the neighboring barbarians, that they are barbaric, ignorant and uneducated, and to accept their rule on the Han people is a kind of insult. Han has thousands of years of civilization, has a splendid culture, compared with the foreigners, the Han people have a strong sense of cultural superiority (sense of cultural arrogance), compared to the Manchurian culture is really shallow, no civilization to speak of, really inferior, this national inferiority complex on the one hand, prompted the Manchurian aristocrats desperately study the Han Chinese culture, on the other hand, but also make Manchurian aristocrats y afraid of the Han people look down on them, and therefore to rule the Han people the best way The best way to rule the Han people is to make the Han people to learn foreign customs, in order to humiliate the Han people in a way to make the Han people spirit of shrinkage, so that the Han people lose self-esteem, self-confidence, to knock off the Han people in the bones of the sense of national superiority. After the establishment of the Qing Dynasty, no less than hundreds of thousands of Han Chinese were killed because of their costumes and hair styles. A Western missionary in China at that time saw these scenes and wrote: "There is no other ethnic group in the world like the Han Chinese who have been massacred because of their costumes and hair styles."

Four, the Japanese kimono

In Japan in the Bird and Nara era, China's influence on Japan's economic and cultural life into the most significant period, at this time, China's ancient Wuyue region of the wide-sleeved, folded lapel-style tunic was spread to Japan, the upper class formal occasions dress, especially the formal uniform of the imperial court. In the historical changes since then, the small sleeves were changed from underwear to outerwear, the sleeves of the kimono became shorter and longer, the obi became narrower and wider, the patterns were constantly renovated, and the dyeing and weaving techniques became more and more refined and luxurious, however, nothing has changed but the same thing, and the basic elements of the kimono have not been detached from the Wu costume. Therefore, up to the present day, the Japanese people still call the kimono Wu costume, and in many schools that teach the weaving of the kimono, it is necessary to tell about the kimono! In many schools where kimono weaving is taught, the historical knowledge that the kimono originated from the Chinese culture of the Sui and Tang dynasties is told.

Fifth, Goryeo dress

Korean court girls in the dress style, there are many gorgeous decorations. It is similar to the Han Chinese dress, but the skirts are looser and puffy.

Basic Han National Costume (Western Zhou Period):

Han National Costume: Spring and Autumn and Warring States Periods (Men's Clothing)

The costume roughly follows the Shang Dynasty's system of clothing, with slight variations. The style of clothes was slightly looser than that of the Shang Dynasty. There were two styles of sleeves, one large and one small, and the collar was a generic rectangular collar, as in the style shown in the picture. This period of clothing is not twisted buckle, generally in the waist belt, some on the belt also hung with jade ornaments. At that time, there are two main types of belts: one made of silk fabric, called "big belt" or "gentry belt". Another belt made of leather, called "leather belt". The one shown in this picture is the "Squire's Belt".

Han National Costume: Spring and Autumn and Warring States Periods (Women's Costume)

The Curve Train Robe. Compared with other garments, in addition to the characteristic that the upper and lower garments are connected, there is another obvious difference called "overlapping and hooked edge". "Ovee" is the lapel. "Continuing obeisance" is to join the lapel long. The "hooked edge" describes the style of the lapel. It changed the past clothing more in the hem slits in the tailoring method, the left side of the lapel of the front and back piece of sewing, and the back piece of the lapel lengthening, lengthening the lapel to form a triangle, wear around to the back, and then tied with a belt.

Han National Costumes: Qin Dynasty Costumes (Women's Costumes)

Qin and Han Dynasties, the train is not only men's wear, but also women's clothing is one of the most common style of clothing, this clothing is tight and narrow, the length of the ground can be trailing, the hemline is generally flared, the line does not reveal the foot. The sleeves are wide and narrow, and most of the cuffs are hemmed. The collar part is very distinctive, usually with a cross collar, the neckline is very low, so as to reveal the inner garment. If you wear several pieces of clothing, each layer of the collar must be exposed to the outside, the most up to three or more layers, known as the "triple clothes".

Chinese National Costume: Qin Dynasty Costume (Men's)

The standard color of Qin's costume was black. But the style is still big lapel right ren cross collar this kind. It was basically inherited from the Warring States period.

Han National Costume: Western Han Costume (Men's Costume) (Image taken from "The Son of Heaven in the Great Han Dynasty")

Curved Train and Deep Clothes for Men in Han Dynasty . The clothing styles of men in the Han Dynasty are roughly categorized into two types: curved train and straight train. The curved train is the deep coat popularized during the Warring States period. It was still used in the Han Dynasty, but was mostly seen in the early Western Han Dynasty. In the Eastern Han Dynasty, men with deep trains were rare, and generally had straight trains, which were not used as formal dresses. The present picture shows this kind of dress with a curved train.

Costumes of the common people in the Han Dynasty:

Costumes of the common people in the Han Dynasty The first picture on the left shows a waiter wearing a jacket (terracotta figurine excavated from the Mengjialiang Han Tomb in Baotou, Inner Mongolia). The 2nd picture on the left shows an attendant wearing a scarf and a robe (painted ceramic figurine unearthed in Pengjiazhai, Handan, Hebei). The 3rd picture on the left shows a man wearing a hat and a robe. The 4th picture on the left shows a maid of honor with a flower pin on her head and wearing a jacket and skirt (pottery figurine of the Han Dynasty unearthed in Chongqing, Sichuan). The 5th picture on the left shows an acrobatic artist with a scarf, bare shoulders, bare feet and a jacket (topograph of a portrait stone unearthed from a Han tomb in Yinan, Shandong Province). The right picture shows an attendant wearing a robe (terracotta figurine unearthed in Xi'an, Shaanxi). During the Han Dynasty, it was stipulated that the people were not allowed to wear all kinds of clothing with colors, but only linen of the original color. It was not until the end of the Western Han Dynasty (13 B.C.) that civilians were allowed to wear green and green clothing. The ban on merchants was even stricter. However, there seems to be no strict system in the style of clothing. From the excavated ceramic figurines and painted masonry of the Han Dynasty, laborers either tied their hair in buns, or wore small hats and scarves, and also wore bucket hats, and wore garments that were almost exclusively cross-necked, knee-length down, and with narrow sleeves

Han Ethnic Clothing: Western Han Clothing (Women's Clothing)

Curved Train and Deep Coat for Han Women The curved-train and deep coat of the Han Dynasty not only was available to men, but at the same time was also one of the most common types of clothing among women's clothing. There are a lot of reflections in the image materials. This kind of garment is tight and narrow all over, the length can be trailing the ground, the hem is generally flared, the line does not show the foot. The sleeves are wide and narrow, and most of the cuffs are hemmed. Collar part is very distinctive, usually with a cross collar, the neckline is very low, in order to reveal the lining. In addition, the Han Dynasty narrow-sleeved tightly wound lapel deep coat. Clothes several turns, around to the hips, and then tied with a silk belt, the clothes are also painted with exquisite and ornate patterns.

Han National Costume: Han Dynasty Straight Train (Women's Clothing, Distinct from Curved Train)

The straight train of the Han Dynasty was worn by both men and women. This kind of dress appeared as early as the Western Han Dynasty, but it could not be used as a formal dress. The reason for this is that all ancient pants had no crotch, only two trouser legs over the knees, and were tied at the waist with a belt. This kind of crotchless pants worn inside, if not covered by the outer garment, the pants will be exposed, which at that time was considered disrespectful and disrespectful things. Therefore, it was necessary to wear a deep garment with a curved train. Later on, as the dress became more and more complete, the form of pants was also improved, and pants with a crotch appeared. Due to the improvement of the underwear, the curved train around the lapel deep coat has been redundant, so to the Eastern Han Dynasty later, straight train gradually popularized, and replaced the deep coat.

Han national costume: Wei, Jin, and North and South Dynasties costumes (men's clothing)

Men's clothing has the characteristics of the times, generally wearing a large-sleeved fluttering shirt. Until the period of the Southern Dynasties, such shirts were still preferred by men of all classes and became a momentary fashion.

Han national costume: North and South Dynasties dress (women's clothing a)

Women's clothing in the Wei and Jin Dynasties inherited the legacy of the Qin and Han Dynasties, and absorbed the characteristics of ethnic minority costumes, improved on the basis of tradition, generally wearing shirts, jackets, 襦, and the lower wearing a skirt, the style more than the upper frugal under the abundance of the body part of the body of the tightly fitted, hypertrophied cuffs, skirts for the multi-folded tuck skirts, the skirt length of the trailing floor, the hemline is loose, thus The skirt is a multi-tucked skirt with a long trailing skirt and a loose hemline, thus creating a handsome and dashing effect.

Han National Costumes: Tang Dynasty Costumes (Men's Clothing) Tang Taizong Li Shimin

This is another style of Han Men's Clothing ----- with round collar and narrow (wide) sleeves. The turban on the head, also known as the burden head, is a kind of first dress formed on the basis of the Han Wei Banner Turban. After the Tang Dynasty, people added a fixed ornament inside the turban, called the "scarf". The shape of the scarf varied from period to period. In addition to the scarf, the two feet of the turban also have many changes, to the late Tang and Fifth Dynasties, has been changed from the original soft foot to the left and right of a hard foot.

Han National Costume: Tang Dynasty Costume (Women's Costume)

This is another basic Han women's costume, upper jacket and lower skirt. It had a great influence on the women's dress of later generations. 襦襦裙 was the main style of dress for women in the Tang Dynasty. In the Sui Dynasty and the early Tang Dynasty, the women's short jacket was made with small sleeves and tight long skirt underneath, which was highly tied at the waist, usually above the waist, and some were even tied under the armpits and tied with ribbons, which gave a sense of playfulness and slenderness. In the Middle Tang Dynasty, the 襦襦s were wider than those of the Early Tang Dynasty, but there was not much change in the others. This picture shows how to wear a jacket and a poncho in the Middle Tang.

Chinese national costume: the costume of the Five Dynasties period The costume of the Five Dynasties period

The costume of the Five Dynasties period was basically inherited from that of the Tang Dynasty. This picture shows a late Tang woman wearing a jacket and a scholar wearing a robe and shirt (part of Gu Ma-te's Han Xizai's Night Banquet). During the reign of Li Yu, the later lord of the Southern Tang Dynasty, he wanted to employ Han Xizai, the minister of the Central Committee, as the minister, but he heard that Han Xizai did not listen to the political affairs, indulged in sex and often gathered the sound of a close friend of the artist in his home at night banquets. So he sent Gu Ma-zhong, a painter at the Academy of Painting at that time, to observe and memorize the scene of the guests' night feasts, and then made a drawing and presented it to Li Yu. This drawing is the famous "Han Xizai Night Banquet" in the history of Chinese painting. The costumes of the characters and the living utensils in the picture are relatively realistic, reflecting the situation of this period. The men in the picture, except Han Xizai and another monk, are wearing turban and robes, and the color of the robes is green, which seems to be related to the system at that time. Turban two feet, slightly down, may be in the middle of the "silk string", so there is some elasticity, is the late Tang Dynasty general style. Han Xizai himself, wearing a sarong, wearing a wide shirt, feet practice shoes, completely a kind of home dress. Women's clothing in the picture, also in line with the reality of the time, mainly short jacket and long skirt, there are also round-necked gowns. The waist is usually tied with a belt, and the rest of the belt hangs down, resembling two belts. Poncho is narrower than the Tang Dynasty, but the length has increased significantly, the length of about three to four meters.

Han national costume: Song Dynasty costume (men's clothing 1)

Song Dynasty Han men's clothing clothing inherited the big lapel right overlooking cross-necked and rounded collar of the two traditional clothing styles. This is the large-over-right collar style.

Han National Costume: Song Dynasty Costume (Men's Costume 2)

The Song Dynasty Han men's costume inherited two traditional dress styles: the large-over-right collar and the round collar. This is the round neck style, compared to the Tang Dynasty Song Dynasty men's clothing this style of cuffs become wider.

Han National Costumes: Song Dynasty Costumes (Women's Costumes 2)

There are two basic styles of Han women's costumes in the Song Dynasty: the large-over-right collar and the lapel. This is the lapel style. Women's clothing is more varied than men's clothing.

Han National Costume: Ming Dynasty Costume (Men's Costume 1)

The Ming Dynasty Han men's costume still follows the two traditional costume styles: big lapel right-over-open neckline and round neckline. This is the round neck style. This is the large-over-right collar style.

Women's Clothing in Ming Dynasty

Women's Regular and Casual Clothing in Ming Dynasty Women's clothing in the Ming Dynasty mainly consisted of shirts, jackets, capes, backs, bikinis and skirts, etc. Most of the basic styles of clothing were modeled after the traditional Chinese clothing of the Ming Dynasty. The basic style of clothing, most of the imitation from the Tang and Song dynasties, generally for the right obeisance, restored the Han customs. Among them, cape, back, than the armor for the lapel, the left and right sides of the slit. Adult women's clothing, along with the family and status changes, there are a variety of different forms, ordinary women's clothing is more simple, mainly 襦裙, back of the child, ZaoShiYunShoulder and robes and so on. The robe is evolved from the jacket, characterized by a low collar, lapel, wide sleeves, less or no lace on the collar and sleeves, and the length of the garment is as long as the foot. The left picture for the full makeup, wearing a gown of the noblewoman (Ming Chongzhen years carved book "Swallow paper" illustration). In the middle picture is a woman wearing a back (illustration from the book Yue Ting Ji, engraved during the Wanli reign of the Ming Dynasty). The right picture shows a woman wearing a jacket (illustration of Jing Hairpin Records, engraved during the Wanli reign of the Ming Dynasty).

Women in the Ming Dynasty mostly wore skirts under their clothes, and pants were rare. Among them, the silk satin cut into regular sized strips, each embroidered with birds and flowers, another in the two sides of the gold thread, broken into a skirt, that is, "phoenix-tailed skirt". More useful whole satin folded with fine pleats, for the "hundred fold skirt".

Ming dynasty generals and officers armor

Ming dynasty armor Ming dynasty sergeants dress there is a fat jacket, the system: "knee-length, narrow sleeves, inside the cotton", the color of the red, so also known as "red fat jacket". Knights wore pairs of lapels in order to ride horses. Combat helmet, mostly made of copper and iron, rarely use leather. Generals wear armor, also with copper and iron, the shape of the armor, more for the "mountain" pattern, production precision, wearing lightweight. Soldiers wear lock word armor, below the waist, also equipped with iron net skirt and net pants, feet wear iron net boots.