Traditional Culture Encyclopedia - Traditional culture - Traditional Clothing of the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period

Traditional Clothing of the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period

The clothes of the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period were straight, long shirts that wrapped the body with the coat and the garment joined together, and this kind of clothes was called 'deep clothes'. There was also a kind of "single garment", which was a wide garment without a lining. They also wore a conical cap on their heads; the conical cap was a turban used to wrap around the hair to keep it from falling out.

The dress patterns of the Spring and Autumn and Warring States periods evolved from the decorative pattern traditions of the Shang and Zhou slave societies.

The subject matter of dress patterns in the Warring States period had a certain symbolic meaning, and the most popular ones at that time were the dragon and phoenix, which symbolized both the prosperity of the court and the beauty of marriage. Crane and deer both symbolize longevity. Zhai bird is a sign of the status of the consort, owl (owl) symbolizes the god of victory, the above themes are used in embroidery. Silk weaving patterns due to the limitations of the jacquard process, the Warring States period is limited to the diamond pattern, square chess pattern, composite rhombus pattern and fill in this type of geometric pattern within the figures, horses, animals and other variations of the pattern.

There are three types of robe styles. The first type: the back of the collar concave, the front collar for the triangle cross collar. Two sleeves under the slanting outward to close the kill, the widest sleeve tube in the armpit, small cuffs. This type is smaller in size and more practical. Type 2: Straight sleeves, wide cuffs, short sleeves. The back collar is straight, and the front collar is a cross collar (triangle). The body of the garment is loose, and it is a robe that covers the surface. Type 3: Long sleeves with curved lower part of the sleeves (the curved line under the sleeves is called "hu", and according to "Houhan Shu - Public Apparel Zhi", it was designed after the shape of a cow with a hanging hu under its neck). The body of the garment was loose and had a luxurious demeanor. This style continued to be popular until the Western Han Dynasty.

Physical evidence

Changsha Warring States Chu tombs unearthed silk figures and wooden figurines, there is still a lapel right to the back of the body in a triangular extension of the train robe style.

Hubei jiangling ma shan warring states chu tomb excavated clothing in kind in the gown class cut method have positive cut, slant cut two kinds. Positive cut method: the robe is divided into two parts of the upper garment, the upper garment is cut **** 8 pieces. Among them, the body 2 pieces, double sleeve 3 pieces. After the above 8 pieces are put together, they are sewn together from the bottom. In the armpit where the sleeves and the body meet, another rectangular piece is put together to make it easier for the arms to move up and down. The collar edge is made of a tapestry with a weft flower, and the lower garment is cut into 5 pieces, with two pieces on the front of the lapel and two pieces on the front of the lapel. Train edge hem edge straight cut and sewn. Slant cutting method: the upper part of the body and both sleeves are cut diagonally, ***8 pieces. Sleeve edge and collar edge are also cut diagonally. The lower garment is cut ***8 pieces.

Hunan Changsha Warring States Chu tomb unearthed in the lacquer trousseau decorated with figures wearing large sleeves, wide hem, V-shaped cross-necked robes, tightly girded at the waist, beautiful body. The Corpse Tzu: "The king of Chu Ling was good at thin waist, and there were many hungry people in the country." This lacquer trousseau figure painting shows, also is the thin waist attire. In addition, all the figures are dressed in white with collar, cuffs, hemline and belt, which may be a white shirt lined with a dark-colored robe. Although the crown is not clear, but all have tasseled belt hanging down, tied in the jaw.