Traditional Culture Encyclopedia - Traditional culture - The end of the "traffic era" and the advent of the "good business era".

The end of the "traffic era" and the advent of the "good business era".

For three consecutive years from 2019 to 2021, we have released the Fashion IP 100, a list of global fashion IPs, and the Global Fashion IP White Paper.

These 3 years are the 3 years of the most rapid development of brand co-branding and cross-border cooperation, and the 3 years of the emergence of new consumer brands through the power of design, with outstanding performance, and even more so for the international and domestic traditional "big" brands that are not willing to be "outdated", and are constantly catching up and taking the initiative to be closer to the world of fashion.

Previous: 5 Trends in the Fashion Consumer Market

Combining the changes in the domestic and international fashion consumer market in the past 3 years, as well as our research and practice in the area of fashion IP and "fashion design +", we have the following observations and findings.

In 2015, Vetements designer Demna Gvasalia became the creative director of Balenciaga, and in the same year, YE cooperated with adidas to launch the adidas Yeezy series; in 2018, Kim Jones became the artistic director of Dior menswear, and in the same year, Off-White designer Virgil Abloh became the artistic director of Dior. Virgil Abloh became the first black artistic director at the helm of LV menswear; Matthew M. Williams became creative director of Givenchy in 2020, to the recent announcement of NIGO as creative director of KENZO, it can be seen that the trend of trend designers and opinion leaders who have mastered the right to speak of trends and strong social media influence to take over the creative departments of old luxury brands or large sports brands. It seems to have become standard for trend designers and opinion leaders to take over the creative departments of established luxury brands or major sports brands, something that was unthinkable six years ago and historically unprecedented.

Just because they didn't have a resume to match it doesn't mean they can't, and the rules of fashion are quietly being broken.

It is worth noting that this situation is still rare in the country, as well as in Japan and South Korea, for a number of reasons that are worth pondering. I wonder what will change in the future?

2, fashion IP co-branding and cross-border cooperation swept the world

The cooperation between Supreme and LV in 2017 triggered the whole market, and then brand co-branding and cross-border cooperation swept the world in a destructive trend, covering dozens of industries from high-end to affordable, from clothing to beauty, sports, sports, bags, and even food, alcoholic beverages, 3C, automotive and so on.

Louis Vuitton x Supreme

According to incomplete statistics, there are more than 130,000 co-branded product releases worldwide in 2019 alone. The unprecedented outbreak of the past three years, co-branding cooperation has become a brand competing for the traffic dividend, to please young customers to win the magic weapon, stepped into the "normalization". However, the quality of cooperation is uneven, and problems such as simple and crude logo-style cooperation and eye-catching gimmick-style cooperation have also been exposed. The market is overheated and has almost been played.

Although the marginal effect of co-branding is diminishing, the effect is getting worse and worse, but the consumer demand for co-branded products is not less, the degree of enthusiasm is not reduced. Demand creates supply, which means that in the future, low-quality co-branded collaborations will go unnoticed and be phased out of the market, while high-quality co-branded collaborations will gain more traction. The era of co-branding is far from over. On the contrary, this is just the beginning of the curtain, and the excitement is still to come.

3, with the power of fashion design, China's new consumer brands to kill out

The past three years at the same time is China's new consumer brands focused on the outbreak of the period, from our point of view, these out of these new consumer brands to kill out, the new consumer brands have the following **** sex: both the "value design, quality, functionality, cost-effective," and the "value of the design, quality, functionality, cost-effective".

In a way, the founders of these new consumer brands in different industries seem to be using the fashion industry's approach to transform their fields in a bold way, or boldly innovating in their fields by introducing the common practices and characteristics of the fashion industry, in order to achieve the "new" of the "new brand". The purpose of the "new".

Three years ago, we chose the title "In the future, all industries will be fashion" for the preface of our first Global Fashion IP White Paper, and years ago, someone said, "All consumer goods industries are worth redoing.

The future of all industries is fashion, and many years ago it was said that "all consumer goods industries deserve a do-over", and that the "new" in this "do-over" is not partly due to the power of fashion design.

4, to be fashionable, to be young, the traditional "old" brand rebranding is still a long way to go

For most of China's traditional "old" brands, brand rejuvenation and rebranding issues are still a long way to go

For most of China's traditional "old" brands, brand rejuvenation and rebranding issues are still a long way to go. In addition to China's Li-Ning, Bosideng and a few other brands that have achieved staged successes (which are unlikely to be replicated again), the vast majority of "old" brands that have claimed to be rejuvenated and reinvented, especially those in the apparel and sports industries, are still in the process of being rejuvenated and reinvented. The majority of "old" brands, especially in the apparel and sports industries, are still struggling to find their way and break through, whether they're Chinese or from other countries overseas.

In addition to embracing young people in the matter of the unexceptional unanimity, they also *** with the same mechanism, culture, team, organization and other strong inertia facing the challenge of the force, seems to have entered a dead cycle.

"Past successes are becoming barriers to future growth." This point can really be smarter to learn from LV, Dior, Balenciaga and other century-old stores, but also to learn from Uniqlo, NIKE, Moncler and other brands, and even to learn from some of the new consumer brands, how to innovate, how to refresh, rebranding, how to link the new generation of consumers, how to do a good job of the product, how to retain, develop, out of talent, how to work with creative teamwork, and so on. But back to the basics, or first of all, to do a good job of the product.

Nike x Off-White

5, national goods and national tide, focusing on the "goods" and "tide"

From 2018 onwards, borrowing the "Taiping Bird", "Lao Ganma", "Dabai Rabbit", "Tsingtao Beer", "Phoenix Bicycle" and several other programs. Phoenix Bicycle" and a number of other projects in which we are y involved), the old brands have brushed their faces and increased brand exposure. The challenge ahead remains the continued innovation and marketing of its core products.

In the long run, national goods and national tide, the focus is on "goods" and "tide", not in the "country". Consumers pay for sentiment is temporary, occasionally can be, the long term is unsustainable. From the essence of business operations, or to strive to make consumers for the "goods", "tide" and pay, "old + new design" may be a proven way to do a good job of the product

In addition, the biggest advantage of the old is that it has a long history, high visibility, good reputation, how to bring this part of the advantage to play out, in addition to the main business of the product, through the extension of the brand with the help of the global design, channel and supply chain capacity to create a new product in line with the development of society and the evolution of lifestyles, new categories, so that people will be refreshing and happy to buy, which will require a higher level of innovation. This requires a higher level of innovation.

Uniqlo x KAWS

Middle: "Fashion Design+" will penetrate more industries

We always believe that the positive significance of fashion IP for the future of business empowerment is the key to the success of the "Fashion Design+" model. From 2019 to 2021, there will be 60 fashion IPs on the Fashion IP 100 list for 3 consecutive years, and 40 of them are constantly changing, which shows that success needs to be built up and the competition is fierce.

Of the IPs on this year's list, 20 are designer labels founded after 2010, which shows the industry's reliance on new talent, talent and hard work.

This year, fashion IPs from France, Germany, China, South Korea, Japan and other Eurasian countries reached 57, accounting for nearly 60% of the total, surpassing for the first time the UK and the US, which will remain in the lead in both 2019 and 2020.

The number of designer and artist fashion IPs on the list has increased steadily over the past 3 years, while the number of celebrity masterminds and opinion leaders on the list has declined year on year, which shows that talent and persistence are indispensable.

Except for Yu Wenle, Liu Wen and CLOT, other Chinese designers/artists are on the lower side of the list, and need to work harder on their social media presence and business appeal.

There is still a lot of misunderstanding about "fashion design+". "


Fashion Design+ is not a brand design, it is not a tool to enhance the brand's "face value"; it is not a marketing tool, it is not a tool to gain attention and earn traffic through cross-border co-branding. Fashion Design+ is a system that centers on customer value, takes aesthetic design as its guide, and builds a trinity of product power, brand power, and channel power.

It is not only about designing new products and developing new series through cooperation with fashion IPs, but also a new model and method to help enterprises in different industries to realize product upgrading, brand upgrading, marketing upgrading and channel upgrading in the context of China's consumption upgrade. Designer cooperation, co-branding cooperation, IP license cooperation are all the scope of cooperation of "fashion design +", for example, LV is precisely through brand co-branding (Louis Vuitton X Supreme), designer cooperation (invited Off-White designer Virgil Abloh to be the men's art director

Louis Vuitton x NBA (left), Louis Vuitton x League of Legends (right)

In recent years, such cases are also prominent: adidas Yeezy, NIKE, Uniqlo, Dior men's wear, Balenciaga, Moncler and so on.

Adidas Yeezy

The system of "Fashion Design+" ensures that every designer cooperation, brand co-branding cooperation and IP license cooperation project can achieve success in the design and development of new products and series, as well as in the creation of content, image filming, dissemination and promotion, and traffic acquisition,

The essence of Fashion Design+ is to make good products through the power of fashion IP and design.



Fashion Design+ is the essence of "Fashion Design+", which is to make good products through the power of fashion IP and design.

Blue Bottle (left), tea (right)

In particular, with the development of the times, "fashion design +" in the domestic and foreign new consumer brands and D2C brand development, have been well practiced and used. For example: Blue Bottle, % Arabica, Seesaw in the coffee industry; 3CE, Glossier, Flower West in the beauty industry; Byredo, Guan Xia in the perfume and scent industry; Warby Parker, Gentle Monster in the eyeglasses industry; Joy Tea in the tea and beverage industry; Beastie in the home life industry; Dyson, Xiaomi in the consumer electronics industry; and Fashion Design+ in the apparel industry. Dyson and Xiaomi in the consumer electronics industry; inside and outside of the clothing industry, banana, Ubras, etc. These are all, without exception, fashion design as an entry point, in the originally competitive red sea market, to create a "value, quality, cost-effective" three high products and stores, presenting a completely different product concept, design, functional features, brand image, and the traditional brands. The brand's concept, design, functionality, brand image, narrative, user interaction and community operation are completely different from those of traditional brands.

BYREDO (left), Guan Xia (right)

We believe that with the intensification of competition and the increasing pursuit of quality and individuality by Generation Z, Fashion Design+ will penetrate into more industries, helping to iterate and upgrade to make good products and become good brands.

Glossier

Next: Three suggestions for moving from traffic-based business to good business

As we enter 2022, we are experiencing a shift from the consumer internet era, where traffic is king, to the meta-universe, with the advent of AI, virtual idols, NFT and the meta-universe.

Beauty is the driving force of modern business; goodness is the destination and end of all business. Because of the beauty, it is attracted; because of the good, it is purchased; because of the good, it is loyal. Because of loyalty, it will produce repurchase, will have the ability to premiumize, and will become a brand in the true sense of the word.

In this context, for those who want to create "both value, but also quality, affordable, brand is good" "good brand", how do we do it? Here, a few suggestions for reference:

1, the designers and other fashion IP as a core resource, strategic attention, cooperation on long-term persistence.

NIKE, with the world-renowned designers, head opinion leaders, almost comparable to the excavation of NBA players. In many years of careful management of the formation of Hiroshi Fujiwara, Travis Scott, MMW, Kwon Chi-Lung, Off-White, sacai, Undercover, Ambush, A-Cold-Wall, and other top fashion IP lineup of the agglomeration effect; Moncler Genius cooperation is also the same, Valentino creative director Pierpaolo Piccioli, Simone Rocha, Kei Ninomiya, Craig Green, Hiroshi Fujiwara, Palm Angels, Matthew Williams, JW Anderson and RIMOWA have all become the best in different styles and fields. This would not have been possible without the *** knowledge and promotion of the top decision makers in the strategy to achieve a high degree of synergy in product design, manufacturing, marketing and sales channels.

Moncler Genius

2. Focus on the cultivation of aesthetics and design ability, set up, train and develop the internal planning and design team.

Behind every ace product, there is a strong designer. Apple's iPhone just came out, known as "technology and art at the summit of the encounter", with Steve Jobs for many years of cooperation with the contribution of the designer Jony Ive on Apple's contribution is indispensable; MUJI behind the success of Kenya Hara, Naoto Fukasawa and other designers to participate in the whole process; Daikanyama Niaoya bookstore design company KDA, Chiko Ikebayashi, and Masuda. In Daikanyama Niaoya Bookstore, the design company KDA, Chiko Ikebayashi, and Mr. Muneaki Masuda have been working together, not to mention that in the fashion industry, such as luxury goods, fashion, apparel, sports, and beauty, almost every successful company has its own strong team of planners and designers. Mr. Masuda even said that in the future, companies will be made up of designers.

For non-fashion companies, it's time to start building, training, and developing an in-house team of designers, and focusing on training and improving the aesthetic and design capabilities of all staff. "TECH+DESIGN" is the standard for a better business in the future.

3, do not deliberately pursue the explosive, from the "1" start, to build the brand's basic and evergreen models.

Everything is difficult at the beginning, focusing on the resources and capabilities of the enterprise, starting with the creation of a good product, both "value, quality and cost-effective". Good products to build out, and then continue to iterate, micro-innovation every year. Let this product become the brand's basic and evergreen models, and ultimately in the baptism of time naturally become a hit.

All the bad "traffic", are short-lived, will not produce repurchase and premium, like many fast-born and fast-dying brand; good "traffic", that is the state of commercial near-perfection, like Disneyland, Costco, Starbucks, Apple's iPhone store, and so on. We hope that working with fashion IPs will not only bring "traffic", but also "beauty".

In this world, there are always people who want to be "traffic" and there are always people who want to be "beautiful". So let the "flow" return to the "flow", let the "good" return to the "good".

The good business I have in mind is both beautiful and good, just like "Din Tai Fung", which doesn't make a fuss and doesn't worry about the traffic, and has been doing a good job of making good products for decades, and knows how to stop and ****win.

A good business may not depend on "Fashion Design+", but it certainly depends on the heart of respect for God and love for people and a consistent belief.

"Image | Visual China"

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