Traditional Culture Encyclopedia - Traditional customs - To which ethnic group does the Han Chinese dress belong?
To which ethnic group does the Han Chinese dress belong?
The traditional national costume of the Han people is the Hanbok. It was widely worn by the Han people from the period of the Three Emperors and Five Emperors to the end of the Ming Dynasty and the beginning of the Qing Dynasty. The Han Dynasty is one of the most important and outstanding dynasties in China, and it is also the earliest, the most complete, the most advanced and the most powerful feudal dynasty in China with the concept of centralized state power, from which the title of Han Chinese originates. Hanfu is a concept derived from this. Hanfu, that is, the traditional national costume of the Han Chinese people, also known as Han clothes, Chinese clothes. The main features of Hanfu are cross-necked, right overlapping, girded, knotted with rope and belt, and also with belt hooks, which give people the impression of being free and easy. Hanbok is the traditional national costume inherited by Han people for thousands of years, until the modern Han people believe in Taoism, Buddhism, and some remote mountain people, as well as many ethnic minorities in the country still maintain the characteristics of Hanbok, and some important rituals, commemorative activities, folk festivals, etc. in the modern society can still be seen in Hanbok figure. The influence of Hanfu is very far-reaching, and some of the nationalities in Asian countries, such as Japan, Korea, Vietnam, Mongolia, Bhutan and so on, have or draw on the characteristics of Hanfu. The main features of Hanfu are cross-necked, right overlapping, girded, tied with a rope and belt, and also used with hooks and so on, giving people the impression of being free and easy. All these features are obviously different from the costumes of other nationalities. Hanbok is divided into gowns and regular clothes. From the point of view of the form, there are mainly the "upper garment and lower garment" system (the garment refers to the lower skirt in ancient times), the "deep garment" system (the upper garment and lower garment are sewn together), the "襦裙" system (襦, i.e., a short jacket) and other types of clothing. The "襦skirt" system (襦, i.e. short jacket). Among them, the crown dress with the upper garment and the lower garment was the most solemn and formal dress of the emperors and officials; the robe (深衣) was the regular dress of the officials and the scholars, and the 襦裙 was the favorite dress of the women. Ordinary working people usually wore short clothes on top and long pants underneath. Accessories Headdress is one of the important parts of Han Chinese dress. In ancient times, Han men and women put their hair in a bun and fixed it with a bun when they came of age. Men often wear crowns, scarves, hats, etc., in various forms. Women's hair bun can also be combed into a variety of styles, and in the hair bun with beads and flowers, step rock and other ornaments. Sideburns on both sides of the sideburns decorated with bo sideburns, there are also wearing a cap, cover the head. There are many types of Hanbok, but they are mainly composed of formal dresses, regular dresses, casual dresses (small dresses), housecoats, and Han element fashions. Hanbok men's style is basically two kinds, one is from ancient times down to the big lapel, right overlooking, cross-collar, wide robes and big sleeves, Bo clothes wrapped with the kind of (Qin and Han costumes as a representative), continued the Shang, Zhou (Spring and Autumn and Warring States), Qin, Han, the Three Kingdoms, the two Jin Dynasty, the North and South Dynasties, Sui, Tang, the Five Dynasties, Song, Yuan, Ming, and influenced Japan, Korea and other countries. The most common style of Japanese kimono is this one, and the second is the polo shirt (worn by Tang Taizong Li Shimin) that has been prevalent since the Sui and Tang dynasties continued through the Tang, Five Dynasties, Song, Yuan, and Ming dynasties, and influenced Japan, Korea, and other countries. This type of clothing is commonly seen in the portraits of Emperor Taejo of Song and Emperor Taejo of Ming. To this day, the Emperor of Japan wears a variant of this hanbok for certain occasions. Note that this round-necked robe also overlaps the right side of the body and is fastened with a small round button near the right shoulder. Women's dress was similar to men's in the early days, with deep garments, but later on, 襦気襦気裙 was the main form of dress. The costumes of the Han dynasties differed somewhat in certain places, but the main part was the same. The basic style of the deep coat of the Western Han and the Han dress of the Ming dynasty were the same, differing in the minutiae. During the Spring and Autumn and Warring States Periods, the dress generally followed the service system of the Shang Dynasty, with only slight changes in the style of clothes slightly looser than the Shang Dynasty, with two styles of sleeves of different sizes, a generic collar with a rectangular neckline and no twisted buttons, and a general belt around the waist, and some of them had jade ornaments hanging on the belt. Warring States period straight train recovery
Then the belt mainly has two kinds: one made of silk fabric, called "big belt" or called "gentry belt"; another belt made of leather, called "leather belt ". At this time, the emergence of a deep train, compared with other clothing, in addition to the top and bottom of the garment connected to this feature, there is a clear difference, called "renewed obeisance hook edge". "Ovee" is the lapel, "renewed obeisance" is the lapel long, "hook edge" is to describe the style of the lapel. It changed the past clothing more in the hem slits in the tailoring method, the left side of the lapel of the front and back piece of sewing, and the back piece of the lapel lengthening, lengthening the lapel after the formation of a triangle, wear around to the back, and then tied with a belt. The Qin Dynasty was still black, so the standard color of Qin clothing was black, but the style was still large lapel with right overlapping collar. It was basically inherited from the Warring States period. Qin Shihuang travel drawing
It is worth mentioning that in the Han Dynasty has been generalized to the world of deep clothes, people seem to miss the top and bottom of the dress attire to, so women began to wear the clothes system of Han clothing. Men's clothing styles in the Han Dynasty were roughly divided into two types: the curved train and the straight train. Train, that is, the deep clothes that were popular during the Warring States period, was still used in the Han Dynasty, but mostly seen in the early Western Han Dynasty. In the Eastern Han Dynasty, men wearing a deep train were rare, and usually had a straight train, but it could not be used as a formal dress. During the Qin and Han Dynasties, not only were men allowed to wear a deep train, but it was also one of the most common types of women's clothing, which was tight and narrow, long enough to traverse the ground, with the hemline generally flared, and the line did not reveal the feet. The Han Dynasty single raked train was restored
The sleeves were wide and narrow, and most of the cuffs were trimmed. The collar part is very distinctive, usually with a cross collar, the neckline is very low so as to reveal the inner garment. If you wear several pieces of clothing, each layer of the collar must be exposed to the outside, the most up to three or more layers, known as the "triple clothing". In addition, the Han Dynasty narrow-sleeved tightly wound lapel deep clothes. Clothes after several turns, around to the hips, and then tied with a silk belt, the clothes are also painted with beautiful and ornate patterns. The straight train of the Han Dynasty was worn by both men and women. This dress has appeared as early as the Western Han Dynasty, but can not be used as a formal dress, the reason is that the ancient pants are no crotch, only two trouser legs set to the knee, with a belt tied to the waist this crotchless pants worn inside, if you do not use the outer garment to cover up, the pants will be exposed, which at that time was considered to be disrespectful and disrespectful things, so outside the train should be wearing a deep coat. Later, as the dress became more and more complete, the form of pants was improved, and pants with a crotch (called "pants") appeared. Due to the improvement of the underwear, the curved train around the lapel coat has been redundant, so to the Eastern Han Dynasty, straight train gradually popularized, and replaced the deep coat. During the Wei, Jin, and Northern and Southern Dynasties, men's clothing was characterized by the era, and they generally wore shirts with large sleeves. Until the period of the Southern Dynasties, this kind of shirt was still loved by men of all classes and became a momentary fashion. Wei and Jin dynasties, women's clothing inherited the legacy of the Qin and Han dynasties, improved on the basis of tradition, "Luoshen Fu" in the women wearing a mixed train long hair dress
Generally wearing shirts, jackets, 襦, wearing a skirt, style more than on the frugal under the abundance of the body part of the body of the tight fit, fat cuffs, the skirt for the multi-tucked skirt, the skirt is long trailing the ground, the hemline loose, so as to achieve the effect of handsome, dashing. Tang Dynasty, officials in addition to wearing a round neck and narrow-sleeved robes, in some important occasions, such as ritual ceremonies still wear dress. Sheng Tang Dynasty maids and concubines
The style of dress, more than the old system of inheritance of the dynasty, the head wearing conical cap or cage crown, wearing a lapel large-sleeved shirt, under the circumference of the clothes, jade pendant group ribbons and so on. 襦裙 is the main style of clothing for women in the Tang Dynasty. In the Sui Dynasty and the early Tang Dynasty, women used small sleeves for their short jackets and wore long tight skirts with high waist ties, usually above the waist, some even tied under the armpits, and tied with ribbons, giving them a pretty and slender look. In the Middle Tang Dynasty, the 襦襦skirt is wider than that of the Early Tang Dynasty, and the others have not changed much. Song Dynasty, although politically open and democratic, "but due to the ideological confinement of the Cheng-Zhu rationale", and foreign policy compromise concessions - dress culture is no longer colorful and luxurious, but simple and rustic. Standing clothes pasted (female)
Song women's formal, conservative, light and quiet colors, 襦衣、褙子 "遮掩 "function to strengthen, all the "crazy" moment are converged a lot. Song Dynasty, regardless of the power of the royal relatives, or the general public, love to wear straight neck, lapel back, because both comfortable and decent, Jie also looks elegant and generous. Yuan Dynasty, the smooth transition of Chinese clothing, slightly absorbed the characteristics of the ethnic minorities in the north of the national costume, such as right overlooking into left overlooking and a few other changes. Ming Dynasty, the Ming Dynasty to restore the Han tradition, Ming Taizu Zhu Yuanzhang re-established the dress system. Many of the popular hair styles for men in the Ming Dynasty were pioneered by Ming Taizu. For example, the "net scarf", which symbolizes the completeness of the state's decrees, the "four-square scarf", which symbolizes the peace of the country, and the "melon skin hat", which is almost taken as a typical Chinese hat by modern Westerners. The restoration of the late Ming Dynasty robe
Ming Dynasty clothing, compared with Tang Dynasty clothing, lies in the obvious inversion of the proportion of the dress, from the short upper garment to the long lower garment, gradually lengthening the upper garment and shortening the length of the skirt. Collar also metamorphosed from the Song Dynasty collar to the round neck mainly. Ming Dynasty women's tops are three narrow sleeves, body length of more than three feet, showing skirt two or three inches, that is, the so-called "Corolla skirt jacket, large sleeves and round neck". At that time, Yangzhou popular a new style: women's shirt length of two feet eight inches, sleeve width of one foot two inches, outside the sleeve set brocade embroidery, winter set sable fox skin. Skirt in the early years of the Ming Dynasty with the color tends to be light; Chongzhen period to promote white skirt. Skirt with one or two inches of embroidered edges. Early Ming skirt width of six, the end of the Ming Dynasty, the development of eight, ten. Skirt pleats are very prevalent, there are fine pleats, there are also large pleats. The decoration of the pleats was very elaborate. There is a kind of skirt called color stripes, each selected a color satin, each color satin embroidered with flowers and birds, with the edge of the band inlaid with gold thread can become an independent strip, will be a number of such a variety of colorful strips put together in the waistband, it becomes a colorful stripes fluttering skirt, so named "phoenix-tailed skirt". Some will also be the whole piece of satin material by hand into a fine pleated pattern, named "pleated skirt". A kind of twenty-four pleated skirt is named "jade skirt". Headdress is one of the most important parts of Han Chinese dress. In ancient times, Han men and women put their hair in a bun and fixed it with a bun. Men often wear crowns, scarves, hats, etc., in various forms. Women's hair bun can also be combed into a variety of styles, and in the bun with beads and flowers, step rock and other ornaments. Sideburns on both sides of the sideburns decorated with bo sideburns, there are also wearing a cap, cover the head. Ancient Hanfu shoes are also very elaborate, reflected in traditional paintings and operas are very different from those of other ethnic groups, some have thick soles, and the toes of the shoes are often decorated with upturned tips. The toes of the shoes are raised upwards to avoid people stepping on the clothes and falling down. Sword is also a part of the ancient Chinese dress, the scholar in formal dress often have a sword.
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