New China clothing material development

Clothing consists of clothing fabrics, accessories, packaging materials and other raw materials. Among them:

Garment fabrics include: cotton, linen, silk, wool, chemical fiber fabrics composition.

Garment accessories include: lining, interlining, filler, thread, woven labels, buttons (zipper), hang tags and so on.

Garment packaging materials include: adhesive bags, wrapping paper/card/film, adhesive paper and adhesive clips, packaging tape, etc.

The production process of apparel fabrics:

Fiber, yarn, white cloth, apparel fabrics

Fiber

1) Fiber

People often put the length of a thousand times larger than the diameter of the fibrous material and only a certain degree of flexibility collectively referred to as fiber. Fiber thickness, length is an important factor in determining the feel of the fabric. Thick fibers give the fabric hard, stiff, coarse feel, and has the characteristics of compression resistance. The shorter the fiber, the rougher the fabric, the easier it is to pill, but with a rough style. Thin fibers give fabrics a soft, thin feel. The longer the fiber, the smoother and flatter the yarn, the less pilling.

2) Types of fibers

A: Natural fibers (obtained directly from nature)

Plant fibers: such as cotton, hemp.

Animal fibers: hair taken from animals, such as wool.

Silk taken from animals, such as silk.

B: Synthetic fibers (obtained by making silk by means of chemical treatment and press-shot extraction).

E.g. acrylic, polyester, nylon, etc.

Fibers can only become garment fabrics if they are spun, and the first step is spinning them into yarn.

Yarn

1, yarn is woven from fibers with a certain strength fineness, and can be processed into any length of material, it is the basic unit of the composition of fabrics.

2, the fineness of the yarn expression (British system): refers to a pound (454 grams) of cotton yarn in the specified rate of return, there are a few 840 yards (1 yards = 0.941 meters) long, that is, for a few counts of yarn, can be simply read as "a few counts of yarn", the unit is expressed in "S". "The larger the number in front of the S, the finer the yarn, the lighter, thinner and softer the fabric will be. The smaller the number, the coarser the yarn, the heavier, thicker and rougher the fabric.

The Structure of Fabrics

When the fibers are spun into yarn, they can be woven into fabrics. Because of the different principles of the machines used in weaving, the internal structure of the woven fabric is different. Usually can be divided into two categories of woven and knitted:

1) woven fabrics: out of two or more groups of yarns interlaced with each other at right angles to the face into the yarn shows longitudinal known as the warps, yarns back and forth horizontally known as the weft. Because the shuttle fabric yarns are interlaced in a vertical way, so it has a solid, solid, relatively low shrinkage rate characteristics.

The following is an introduction to several commonly used woven fabrics;

Type of fabric Feature Advantages Disadvantages Used for style

Elastic flat fabric Fabrics with a cloth pattern on the surface and the bottom are made by adding a drawstring filament in the weaving process. Because of the fabric has another frame wire to make the finished product elastic, more visible lines, thinner, smooth surface, strong and durable, more hair stiff. Because of the cotton content, easy to wrinkle after washing, need to iron. More used in shirts

Color woven plaid cloth out of a variety of color yarn composition of color woven fabric does not lose color, color changes. Longer period

Twill The number of warp yarns is more than the number of weft yarns (usually 3/1), forming a twill pattern. The special organization of the cloth makes the twill with strong three-dimensional sense, the plain grain is fine and thick, and the luster is better and softer. Mostly used in pants

Beaded canvas The same fabric pattern on the surface and the bottom of the finished product is more straight cotton thin beaded canvas is more easy to wrinkle

Denim fabric Weaving method is the same as twill, but only yarn dyeing, so that the bottom of the fabric is light in color with specifications of 10OZ, 13OZ, 14OZ, 15OZ, etc. The fabric has many variations and can be used for a wide range of applications. The cloth has many variations and can be applied to different styles, washable, wearable and durable. More hard body

Nylon cloth The surface and the bottom of the cloth pattern is the same man-made fibers Durable, easy to wash and dry, the cloth is woolly, warm. Exposure to the sun will cause brittleness used for windbreaker or jacket fabric

Corduroy woven by special looms, by the hair treatment of 3.5 pits, 8 pits, 13 pits, 21 pits and other specifications. The surface of the cloth is hairy and warm. It is used in shirts and pants.

2) Knitted fabrics: the structure of the warp yarn into a loop to form a needle loop, the new needle loop and then through the previous needle loop, and so on and so forth, that is, the formation of knitted fabrics.

The following are some common knitted fabrics:

Type of fabric Characteristics Advantages Disadvantages Used for style

Plain fabric Low needle on the surface, high needle on the bottom, sturdy weave, thinner than double-sided fabric Thinner, lighter, breathable, sweat-absorbent, little elasticity, smooth surface, relatively easy to wrinkle and deformation Mostly used for T-shirts

Ribbed fabric Ribbon fabric forms a concave-convex effect More flexible and suitable for slim-fit style than ordinary knitted fabric. More elastic than ordinary knitted fabric, suitable for slim style

Double sided fabric The surface and bottom fabric pattern are the same, and the weaving method of the bottom fabric is the same. It is smoother than ordinary knitted fabric, rich in elasticity and sweat absorption, and easy to be linted (after washing), mostly used for T-shirt

Pearl fabric The surface of the fabric is in the shape of a sparse porous honeycomb. (20% cotton + polyester fiber) Warm, soft, hot look and feel More used in jackets or T-shirts

Sweatshirt cloth The bottom side is like a towel loop, cotton yarn weaving pattern, the cloth surface is like a towel cloth Warm, washable, soft, sweat-absorbent, thicker More used for sportswear (fall and winter models)

Wafer cloth The surface of the cloth is in the shape of wafers with a strong sense of three-dimensionality It is easy to be deformed after washing

The polyester mercerized double-faced cloth does not contain the cotton content.










































Cotton: (seed fiber) can be used to make a fabric. Cotton: (seed fiber) can be said to be the world's most widely used clothing fiber.

It is taken from the fiber of the cotton seed, to picking treatment, ginning, carding, splicing, combing, worsted, worsted into cotton yarn and then by the cotton yarn Hoven into cotton fabric.

1) Advantages:

Moisture-absorbing power --- cotton fiber is a porous material, the internal molecular arrangement is very irregular, and the molecules contain a large number of hydrophilic structure.

Warmth ---- cotton fiber is a poor conductor of heat, the inner cavity of the cotton fiber is full of immobile air,

Comfortable to wear --- does not produce static electricity, good breathability, anti-sensitive, easy to clean.

2) Disadvantages:

Easy to wrinkle --- cotton fiber is less elastic.

Shrinkage rate is large ---- cotton fibers have a strong water absorption, when it absorbs water to make the cotton fiber expansion, resulting in cotton yarn shortening deformation.

Before washing size - after washing size

With calculation: shrinkage = × 100%

Before washing size

General knitted garments accept the shrinkage range of + 5%

Mold and mildew ----- In the state of humidity, such as encountering bacteria or fungi, the cotton fibers will be decomposed into their preferred nutrients ---- glucose that makes the fabric moldy and deteriorate.

Cotton fibers, such as prolonged contact with sunlight, the strength is reduced, the fiber will be hard and brittle, such as oxidizing agents, bleaching powder or dyes with oxidizing properties, will also reduce the strength of the fiber, the fiber is brittle and hard.

3) Washing:

●Machine washable or hand washable, but because of the poor elasticity of the fibers, it is best to wash lightly or do not use vigorous hand washing, so as not to change the shape of the clothes, affecting the size.

●Cotton fabrics are best washed in cold water to maintain the original color.

Except for white cotton fabrics, it is best not to use detergents or washing powder containing bleaching ingredients. So as not to cause decoloration, and not to pour the washing powder directly on the cotton fabrics, so as not to partial decoloration.

●Wash dark-colored shirts separately from light-colored shirts.

4) Drying: After undressing, you should hang dry quickly and flatly to minimize creasing.

5) Ironing: High temperature resistant, can be ironed at a high temperature up to 200C o.

Cotton mercerized clothing fabrics:

Mercerization is a traditional processing of cotton fabrics. But in the past, cotton mercerization process is mostly used for bed sheets, towels and yarn, etc., while the current cotton mercerized T-shirts, sweatshirts, shirts, etc. has become a cotton boutique trend. It uses low number (high-count) cotton fabrics, treated with high concentration of caustic soda to make it smooth and have a silk-like luster, and then finishing with high-quality softeners, wearing light, smooth and comfortable. Our company produces cotton single mercerized T-shirt (refers to the primary alkali caustic treatment) and cotton double mercerized T-shirt (refers to the secondary alkali caustic treatment).

Wool

Wool: natural animal fiber

Wool: in the absence of specific reference to it refers to the wool shorn from sheep.

English name: WOOL. the fiber consists of proteins, the fiber outside the scale-like structure. The nature of different wool depends on its fiber thickness and different scale structure. The smaller the fiber and the smoother the surface of the fiber, the better the hand feel of the woven clothes.

1) Advantages:

Highly absorbent: wool is a very good hydrophilic fiber, very comfortable to wear.

Warmth: Wool has a natural crimp that creates many air pockets as a barrier.

Durability: Wool has very good tensile and elastic recovery, and has a special scaling structure as well as excellent curvature, so it also has good appearance retention.

2) Disadvantages:

Felting reaction: a unique and important characteristic of wool, it is the wool fiber surface scales caused by the phenomenon. When the wool surface scales encounter mechanical force (vibration and friction, as well as pressure, etc.), heat and water and other conditions, the wool will sink to its roots. As the wool sinks, the edges of the scales become entangled with each other and become tangled to the point where they cannot be restored to their original length and dimensions. This results in severe shrinkage. Under extreme conditions, the wool can shrink to half its original size (in garment making, 80% shrinkage is normal).

In addition, wool is susceptible to moths and will pill if rubbed frequently. If placed under bright light for a long time, it will cause damage to its tissues, and its heat resistance is poor.

3) Washing method:

●Wool is not easy to get dirty, and it is easy to clean. However, it is better not to wash it every time you wear it, but to remove the dirt by focusing on it. And after each wear, with a soft brush on the collar and cuffs inside, not only can remove the dust on the woolen fabrics, but also can make the woolen fabrics to restore the original appearance of puffy. Woolen clothing should be given a period of rest between each wearing, it is easier to maintain the appearance.

●If the woolen garment has been deformed, hang it in a place with hot steam or spray a little water on it to increase the recovery of its shape.

●It is not advisable to machine wash wool, as it felts faster when exposed to force.

●Hand wash at 30-40 degrees Celsius.

●Never bleach, because the wool will turn yellow after bleaching.

4) Drying:

●Squeeze out the water gently after washing, do not twist dry.

●The best way to dry is to lay flat or hang dry to avoid deformation.

●Do not tumble dry.

5) Ironing: generally woolen fabrics do not need to be ironed, if necessary, can be used in medium temperature steam ironing.

BONUS: Lambswool is basically the first shearing of a lamb less than a year old, lighter than normal wool, warm and soft.

Polyester

(Synthetic Fiber)

Polyester (Synthetic Fiber): Synthetic fibers are made of polymer compounds, polyester is one of them, it is also called polyester fiber.

Advantages:● Strong, abrasion resistance, good elasticity, and heat resistance

Disadvantages:● The lack of a hydrophilic structure between the molecules, so the moisture absorption is very poor, and breathability is poor. Fabrics made from it will be stuffy and non-breathable when worn.

●Additionally, because the surface of the fiber is smooth, the holding power between each other becomes poor, so the friction place is easy to hair, ball.

Blended fabrics

Wool-polyester fabrics:

Wool-polyester fabrics are fabrics made of wool and polyester blended yarns, which is the most common type of blended wool fabrics at present. Wool and polyester blended commonly used ratio is 45:55, both to maintain the advantages of wool, but also to play the strengths of polyester, almost all of the coarse and worsted woolen fabrics have the corresponding wool and polyester blended varieties. Blending ratio can be adjusted according to the needs of the fabric, such as 70:30, or 80:20 and so on. Worsted wool-polyester thin tweed, also known as cool tweed, commonly known as wool does cool, is one of the most reflective of the characteristics of wool-polyester blended fabrics. It has a warp and weft all with double stranded yarn, there are warp with double stranded yarn, weft with single yarn and warp and weft all with single yarn, usually with 20-14TEX (50-70 male) double stranded yarn, light fabric with 10-8TEX (100-120 male) double stranded yarn, the fabric weighs about 170-190G/square meter.

Wool and polyester thin tweed and wool tweed, compared with the texture of light, good crease recovery, firm and wear-resistant easy to wash and quick drying, tuck lasting, stable size, not easy to insect moth, but less than the soft feel of wool. Such as polyester as raw materials to participate in blending, it has a silk-like luster, if the use of cashmere or camel's wool and other species of animal hair in the blended raw materials, the feel is more smooth and tender.

Washing instructions: first soak in cold water for 15 minutes, and then wash with general synthetic detergent, the temperature of the liquid should not exceed 45 degrees Celsius, collar, cuffs, dirty places available brush (soft) scrubbing, clean, can be wrung out gently, placed in a cool ventilated place to dry, not sunburned, should not be dried, in order to avoid wrinkles due to ripening.

Wool viscose blending:

The purpose of blending is to reduce the cost of woolen textiles, but not to make the style of woolen textiles due to viscose fibers mixed into the lower. Viscose fibers mixed in, will make the fabric strength, abrasion resistance, especially wrinkle resistance, fluffiness and many other properties significantly worse, so the viscose content of combed woolen fabrics should not be more than 30%, coarse combed woolen fabric viscose fiber content should not be more than 50%.

Sheep free wool cord:

Sheep and rabbit wool blended wool fabrics is a faster development of a product in recent years. Blended not only to improve the spinnability of rabbit hair, but also to improve the style of the fabric, increase the variety of colors. Rabbit hair can make the fabric feel softer than pure wool fabrics, and the appearance of the fabric to produce a silver frost-like luster, but also the use of wool, rabbit hair coloring different, dyed two-color, distinctive style.

Rabbit wool is light, low strength, poor holding, spinning difficulties. Hair-free content can only be about 20%, and need to use high grade wool and its blending. Its blended products for high-grade coat tweed, tweed or fine flannel knitted fabrics.

T/R fabrics:

The use of plaid or stripe or flash or monochrome T/R fabrics for stand-up and lapel jackets and casual wear is one of Edo's hallmarks.

T/R fabrics are polyester-viscose blends. Polyester viscose blending is a complementary blending. Polyester viscose not only cotton type, wool type, and medium-length type. Wool type fabrics are commonly known as "fast bar". When polyester is not less than 50%, this blended fabric can maintain the polyester's firm, wrinkle-resistant, dimensionally stable, washable and wearable characteristics. Viscose fiber mixing, improve the breathability of the fabric, improve the anti-melt hole sex; reduce the fabric pilling and anti-static phenomenon.

Polyester/viscose blended than more than 65/35 or 67/33. polyester/rich blended with polyester/viscose the same. These blended fabrics are characterized by smooth and clean fabrics, bright colors, strong sense of wool, feel good elasticity, good moisture absorption; but the non-iron is poor.

High-density NC fabric:

High-density NC fabric is a kind of fabric blended or interwoven with nylon (nylon) and cotton yarns, its warp and weft density is larger, and it generally adopts flat level organization. The product synthesizes the advantages of nylon and cotton yarn. Nylon abrasion resistance ranks first among natural fibers and chemical fibers, nylon moisture absorption, wearing comfort and dyeing performance than polyester, so nylon and cotton blended or interwoven will not reduce the cotton yarn moisture absorption and wearing comfort, nylon is lighter, while the cotton yarn is heavier, the two interwoven or blended, can reduce the weight of the fabric; nylon elasticity is very good, blended or interwoven with cotton yarn to improve the elasticity of the fabric;

NC fabrics have the following disadvantages: due to the participation of nylon in interweaving or blending, the fabric's heat and light resistance is poor, in the process of using the washing and ironing to meet the conditions, so as not to damage. Its most notable style features: not easy to wear, soft and comfortable, easy to clean. It cannot be burst into the sun, and cannot be wrung out.

Mousse Fabric:

3M Waterproof Mousse Fabric: The fabric adopts the latest modern technology - "new synthetic fiber" that is, microfiber as raw material for weaving high-density fabrics, soft to the touch, smooth and delicate; the fabric has countless times more micro-fine hairiness than ordinary fabrics. The fabric has countless times more than ordinary fabrics of micro-fine hair plume, countless times higher surface area and microporous, so the fabric has a great ability to dust, oil, dirt. The fabric also uses the latest 3M brand waterproof glue, after special processing, so that 3M glue molecular microfabrics penetrate into the fabric fibers, not only has good waterproof performance, but also does not affect the fabric's air permeability and moisture permeability. The fabric is becoming popular in Europe and America and is widely used in clothing.

Features: fine and clean appearance, plump, slightly velvety, but the eye can not see the velvet; soft and elegant luster; soft, smooth and delicate feel; warm to the touch; the body of the fabric is fluffy and elastic. Dry clean carefully, do not wring.

TENCEL (TENCEL) fabrics:

TENCEL, a new viscose fiber, also known as LYOCELL (LYOCELL) viscose fiber, its trade name is TENCEL.

Tencel is produced by solvent spinning technology based on ammonium oxide, which is completely different from the previous viscose fiber production method. It is produced by solvent spinning technology, which is completely different from the previous production method of viscose fiber. Because the solvent can be recycled, ecological harmless, also known as the 21st century viscose fiber. TENCEL is composed of fiber diesel, which is produced from trees in nature.

Tencel's main features are: high wet strength (higher than cotton fiber) wet modulus is also higher than cotton. Viscose fibers with good moisture absorption, and synthetic fibers like high strength. Tencel fabric size stability is better, washing shrinkage is smaller, the fabric is soft, silk-like luster. When there is a temperature, Tencel fabric will expand, it is like a wall, can be in the rain and snow intrusion at the same time, still maintain it has the breathability, in the silk fabric with natural fibers like comfort. Garments made with Tencel are soft and supple and can be washed in a variety of ways and still remain soft and unshaped. Hand wash, do not use bleach, dry in shade, do not wring.

TNC fabric:

The fabric is made of high technology fiber, i.e., super fiber (nylon, polyester) compounded with high count cotton yarn, i.e., three-in-one composite fiber weaving of the latest popular fabrics. The fabric comprehensively play the polyester, nylon, cotton yarn three kinds of fiber characteristics, set the advantages of three kinds of fiber in one, good wear resistance, good elastic recovery rate, good strength, feel delicate and smooth, comfortable and breathable, novel style, chic, is the ideal clothing fabric. It can be dry cleaned, not wrung out.

Composite fabrics:

Composite fabrics is a kind of ultra-fine fibers in a specific textile processing and unique dyeing and finishing, and then processed by the "composite" equipment. Composite fabrics apply the "new synthetic fiber" high technology and new materials, with many excellent performance (compared with ordinary synthetic fiber), such as the fabric performance of fine, delicate, elegant, warm, full-bodied appearance of the fabric, windproof, breathable, with a certain degree of waterproof function, the fabric's warmth is good.

Because the composite fabric adopts ultrafine fiber, the fabric has high cleaning ability, that is, decontamination ability. The fabric also has a feature: good abrasion resistance, microfiber fabrics feel soft, breathable, moisture permeability, so in the sense of touch and physiological comfort, has obvious advantages, microfiber fabrics wrinkle resistance is poor (this is because the fiber is soft, wrinkled elasticity due to poor recovery); in order to overcome this shortcoming, so the "composite" adopted process, which greatly improves the microfiber fabrics wrinkle-resistant poor shortcomings. Composite fabrics are currently popular in Europe and the United States coat fabrics.

Features: warm, breathable.

Attachment: four commonly used dyeing methods:

Fiber dyeing - dyeing when it is still fiber. Such as: flower gray

Yarn dyeing - spinning into yarn before dyeing. E.g.: plaid shirt

Pitch dyeing - dyeing is done after the cloth has been woven. For example: net color clothes

Piece dyeing - made into clothes and then dyed in pieces.

Dyeing Method

Dyeing Classification Fiber Dyeing Yarn Dyeing Pit Dyeing Piece Dyeing Coloring Degree Best Worst Cost Spending High Low

Leather

Leather: refers to the process of tanning and dehairing of the animal's fur to a certain degree of suppleness and permeability, and non-perishable and water-resistant structure.

1) commonly used leather:

A, pig leather - coarse pores, every three holes side by side into a group, arranged in a triangle, each group farther apart, the surface is not flat, rough, leather economy.

B, sheep leather - to goat leather is the best, the pores are flat round, and fish scale arrangement, soft and elastic feel, glossy natural, but the price is more expensive, more used to do clothes.

C, cow leather - leather is harder, divided into two kinds of buffalo and buffalo leather, buffalo leather hair pores are small and round, uniform and tight distribution, leather surface is fine and smooth and shiny, feel solid and elastic, buffalo leather surface uneven, rough leather, pores are thicker than the yellow cowhide, sparse, loose texture than the yellow cowhide The leather is used to do a variety of leather goods, the price is moderate.

2) leather characteristics:

● original animal skin, so there is a certain respiratory properties, can be breathable.

●High degree of durability, because of its fiber for the multi-layer structure, one-way pull tear is difficult to tear.

●Natural protein, high temperature resistance.

3) how to identify the quality of leather:

First from the outside looking at the requirements of glossy fullness of nature, not distortion. Hand feel to be soft, body and bone full and elastic, with good air permeability and moisture absorption.

4) the difference between genuine leather and imitation leather:

Difference leather imitation leather

Odor A special smell of leather only plastic smell

Touch natural feel a kind of sticky feeling

Color of the glaze there is a small difference monotonous, the same as the same

5) the maintenance of the leather:

1, can not be immersed in water to clean, you can Commonly used leather cream rub leather.

2, not curl or reverse twist.

3, to be placed in a dry and cool place.

4, can not be folded when stored, so as to avoid deformation.

5, stained with water belt buckle to immediately dry with a dry cloth to avoid oxidation.

6, shall not be and acid and alkali and other chemicals put together.

Universal WASHING INSTRUCTIONS

HAND WASH 300C-400C only MACHINE WASH 400C OR BELOW DO NOT TUMBLE DRY

HAND WASH 400C OR BELOW DO NOT TUMBLE DRY

HAND WASH 400C OR BELOW DO NOT TUMBLE DRY

WASH WITH LOWER THAN 400C TEMPERATURE WATER. MACHINE WASH 400C OR BELOW DO NOT TUMBLE DRY

DO NOT WASH DO NOT WASH FLAT TO DRY

CAN BLEACH DRIP DRY

DO NOT BLEACH HANG DRY

DO NOT BLEACH HANG DRY

DO NOT WRING DRY

DO NOT DRY CLEAN LOW IRON 1200C MEDIUM IRON 1600C HIGH IRON 2100C

It should be reminded that laundry sweaters should be hand-dried. >Remind the quality of laundry sweater DRY CLEAN POSSIBLE

Remedy for commodity stains

Types of stains Drugs and solvents used Methods

Animal and vegetable oil stains Gasoline or turpentine Dry first, and then wash with soap if the oil stains are melted, and then wash with water

Soy sauce stains Ammonia, oxalic acid Scrub with ammonia, then with oxalic acid, and finally with water

Sauce stains Ammonia, oxalic acid Scrub with ammonia. Then use oxalic acid to scrub, and finally wash with water

Ballpoint pen oil stains Alcohol Scrub with alcohol, and then soak in boiling water

Ink stains Rice, salt Scrub with rice or rice porridge and salt

Blood stains Ammonia Wash with cold water, and then ammonia

Iron rusts Dilute sulfuric acid Soak in hot water, apply dilute sulfuric acid, and then wash with water

Justice Hydrogen peroxide Water Wash with hydrogen peroxide, and then wash with water

Justice Hydrogen peroxide Water Wash with hydrogen peroxide, and then wash with water

Iron rusts Diluted sulfuric acid Wash with hydrogen peroxide, then wash with water

Yellow mud stains Ginger Brush first, then rub the stain with ginger, and finally wash with water

Sweat stains Salt water Soak in 3% salt water for 2-3 hours, then rinse with water, and wash with soap

Cosmetic stains Alcohol A little alcohol in the stains a few drops, gently rub with your hands, and then wash with water.