Traditional Culture Encyclopedia - Traditional customs - Names of Qing dynasty costumes? Names of Qing Palace flag heads?

Names of Qing dynasty costumes? Names of Qing Palace flag heads?

Japanese flag, yellow flag, yellow flag, red flag, red flag, red flag, blue flag, blue flag, white flag, white flag?

Flag head: big pull wing, two small handle character head, soft wing head

Costume:

I. Formation of the Manchu dress system

Chinese feudal society, the dress system is an important part of the expression of hierarchy. Manchu clothing system is in the Manchu ancestors in the long-term hunting life on the basis of regular clothing gradually formed and perfected. Before Nurhachu established the Later Jin regime, there was no clear hierarchy in the female society, and there were few ornaments on their clothes.

In their daily lives, Manchu ancestors in order to facilitate the riding, cold, mainly wearing arrow-sleeved robes, coats and so on. Arrow sleeve robe is one of the traditional robes of the Manchu ancestors. Arrow sleeve is a robe of a narrow sleeve, the robe sleeve is relatively long, the production method: in the original narrow cuffs before, and then connected to a semi-circular sleeve head, generally the longest for half a foot, shaped like a horseshoe, called "horseshoe sleeve". Horseshoe sleeve weekdays ò up, down when hunting, covering the back of the hand. The so-called lack of lapel robe, is wearing a robe of the right lapel than the left lapel short. Manchu forefathers, usually do not ride a horse, will be wearing a robe of the lower corner of the right lapel with buttons up pleats about a foot, when riding a horse will be put down. This arrow sleeve lack of lapel robe, wear clothing convenient, winter can withstand the cold northern wind and sand, but also in the nomadic way to do for the night cover. Horse coat is worn with the robe clothing. Originally for out riding in the line of robes outside the coat, its style for the round neck, lapel, with open ?€, buckle tabs, body length to the umbilicus, sleeve length and elbow, all sides open ?€. Because of the body, sleeve shorter, made of leather or cotton in winter, set in the robe outside. Manchu ancestors of these national traditional clothing, both practical and simple, to facilitate daily life and riding and shooting, reflecting the characteristics of nomadic life.

Nurhachu in 1616 after the establishment of the Jin regime, in the development of the ruling policy, at the same time, in the six years of life of the seventh day of the seventh month (August 23, 1621), the Oracle Baylor, the military officials on the court are wearing complementary clothing. Provides: "the Baylor service four paws python satin patchwork; all Hall, the general officer, deputy general service unicorn patchwork; generals, guerrillas service lion patchwork; ready for the Royal, a thousand general service embroidered puma patchwork."

1, this is the first time that the Later Jin regime provides for different levels of officials to wear different patterns of clothing, to show the difference in their ranks. Thereafter, Nurhachu and the provisions of the princes and ministers to wear court dress, wear the top. Subsequently, Nurhachu also made the general officer, vice general, with their own bounty, self-made tops; generals, guerrillas, ready for more than the Royal officials, by the Baylor of the craftsmen system to. Fate of eight years in June (July 1623): there are "the title of the ministers, are rewarded to wear a gold top hat, with Chinese clothes; the Baylor's guards are wearing chrysanthemum top hat, with Chinese clothes."

2, Huang taiji after his father, in Tiancong six years on the fourth day of February (March 24, 1632) on the Baylor, ministers and other clothing clearly stipulates that: "the Baylor ministers, dyed ermine skirts, edge of the broad python satin collar, and hats chrysanthemum tops, all orders to stop. There are made of leather skirt, edge of broad python satin collar and cap mounted chrysanthemum top and take, then take the person who captured it. There are clothes edge of fine edge, the system of vegetarian felt hat and take, listen to it"

3, December 2, Huang taiji issued an oracle to formulate the service system. The edict said: "eight solid mountain the Baylor, walking in the city, winter and summer are dressed in court dress. Outside the party allowed to wear civilian clothes. Winter months into the dynasty, allowed to wear yuan fox hat, home wear pointed tasseled sable hat and sable rat group felt hat. When entering the court in spring and fall, he was allowed to wear a tasseled sable hat. Summer month, Xu wear tasseled hat, plain python satin, each with its own changes, shall not be unauthorized service yellow satin and five-clawed dragon and other services, if the Department on the give, not in this case, usually do not wear satin boots. But the summer months into the court, is allowed to use". At the same time, also provides for the Manchu, Mongolian and Chinese people since the flag adult to idle rich people above the service system. The edict said: "Manchuria, Mongolia, Han people, since the solid mountain amount of real below, on behalf of the son of Zhangjing, military protection and cattle under the record of idle rich people above, winter and summer in the city all service collar robe, shall not serve small robe. Poor people serve without lapel robe. Whether it is poor, listen to the solid mountain amount of real details, if out, are allowed to serve small robes. And, idle, guards, Zhangjing, military protection and the Baylor under idle, guards, Zhangjing, military protection and above, allowed to serve satin; the rest of the cloth. ...... where the women served satin, cloth, each with their husbands. And winter permitted to wear tasseled group hat; summer permitted to wear a cool hat. Should serve satin, not constrained python vegetarian, each at their own convenience. But not allowed to use yellow and apricot yellow, and five-clawed dragon and other services, if the Department on the gift, not in this case. Black fox hat, ministers may not make their own, but on the grant allowed to wear. Satin boots are not allowed to wear flat people, should be served satin robe, into the court and banquet party allowed to wear, not in the city is not allowed to wear yellow fox hat. Out in winter months, party allowed to wear. Its pointed tasseled cap and colorful leather and cotton cap, all are not allowed to wear. And, broadband and leather and cotton shoulder coat jacket, in the city is not allowed to take, outside allowed to take."

4, the first day of July in the first year of Chongde (August 1, 1636), Huang taiji also issued an oracle to formulate the King of the country Fujin following the attendant people and the wives of the officials, to the solid mountain Gege and other women's clothing system. Up to this point, after the gold regime of the crown up and down the system, is finalized.

After moving the capital of Qing to Beijing, its court dress system by the influence of Chinese culture, customized before entering the customs on the basis of further more fixed. Shunzhi, Kangxi, Yongzheng three emperors had respectively determined the system of clothes and crowns, and the Qianlong years, the system can be perfected and standardized, along to the end of the Qing Dynasty.

Second, the emperor's crown

The emperor's crown has a strict etiquette. Crown dress has a dress, auspicious clothing, three kinds of regular clothing. The emperor will wear dress, rituals, also known as court dress; festive days or orders will be out of the division, sacrifices Que Li, the first teacher, etc. to wear auspicious clothing; Royal feasts and other daily political affairs or usually wear regular clothes, including cruises, roundups and pro-conquests out of the line of clothing and rain and snow worn by rain clothes; the four seasons, fur, cotton, lined, single, but their own time. Crown, depending on the service, there is a crown, crown, crown, crown, also divided into winter and summer.

Crown crown

The emperor's crown and court dress, for the emperor to perform court rituals and sacrifices when wearing clothing, crowns and ornaments.

Dynasty crown is divided into winter and summer. Winter crown has black fox, lavender fox two kinds: the first day of November each year to the next year, the first yuan festival with black fox. Before the first of November and the following year after the first month of the fifteenth with fox. Adorned with Zhu Wei; top three layers, through the East Pearl each one; bearing a golden dragon four, decorated with the East Pearl as its number; on the big pearl a pearl. Beam two, at the top of the left and right eaves on both sides of the pendant band, handed under the head. Summer crown with woven jade grass or rattan bamboo silk weaving, edge of lapis lazuli sheet gold two layers, eaves my, decorated with Zhu Wei. Hat in front of the gold Buddha, decorated with fifteen pearls. After the decoration of the Sherwood Forest, decorated with Dongzhu seven, the top such as the winter crown.

The court dress is also divided into winter and summer. Winter court dress is the emperor in the fall and winter seasons, the sacrifice worn by the round neck, horseshoe sleeves, shawl, right obeisance, clothing is not connected to the skirt-style ceremonial robes. Winter robe has a bright yellow, blue, red, white four colors, will wear bright yellow, sacrifice to the sky, pray for grain, often summer wear blue, wear red towards the sun, the sunset wear moon white. Winter robe system has two: one, the collar and dress table to purple sable, sleeve end of the lavender sable, embroidered text; shoulders before and after the dragon each one, clothing before and after the list of twelve chapters, between the five-color cloud. The creases were covered with six dragons. Second, the collar and sleeves are all stone green, with gold and sea dragon rims, embroidered with text; there is one dragon in front of and behind the shoulders, five rows of dragons on the waist, one dragon on the obeisance, nine dragons in front of and behind the creases, two dragons on the garment, and four rows of dragons. Phi collar line dragon two, sleeve end positive dragon each one, before and after the list of twelve chapters, the sun, the moon, the stars, mountains, dragons, Chinese insects, embroidery, 黻 in clothing, Zong Yi, algae, fire, powder rice in the garment, between the five-color cloud, the lower part of the eight treasures of the flat water. Summer court dress with bright yellow, blue, moon white three colors. Morning meeting with bright yellow, often summer with blue, sunset with moon white. The system of the collar and sleeves for the stone green color, piece of gold edge, the rest of the winter court dress as two. Summer court dress with satin, yarn, single, clip, all according to the seasonal alternation.

The beads are worn as a court dress and auspicious dress beads. Derived from the Buddhist beads, are composed of 108 particles, the Buddha's head to remember the size of the back of the cloud pendant, mainly to the east beads, bees, coral, turquoise, linden, etc. worn into. Dynasty beads with Dongzhu; but the rituals are different, Fangze with Mipo, sunrise with coral, sunset with turquoise. Tape are bright yellow.

The belt is the emperor's belt when the activities such as court. The system of the belt has two, the color are bright yellow: one, with a dragon text gold round version of four,

decorated with red, sapphire or turquoise, each version of the title of the Dongzhu five, around the pearl twenty. The left and right pei jian light blue and white each one, under the wide and sharp. In about openwork gold round knots, decorated with gems such as plate, around the pearl each thirty. Pei capsule text embroidery, flint bodkin knifing knot wear only appropriate, taping all with bright yellow. All big ceremonies with it. Second, with the dragon text gold square version of four, which is decorated with lapis lazuli for heaven, only topaz for earth, coral for sunrise, white jade for sunset. Each version of the Dongzhu five. Pei and taping, but the sacrifice to the sky with pure green, the rest of the system as a round version of the tape. In the middle, the round knot was decorated like a plate, holding four dongzhu. Pei capsule pure stone green color, left bodkin right cut, and from the plate color.

Ji clothing crown

Emperor Ji clothing crown and Ji clothing: for the monthly solstice, the first five, ten, fifteen, twenty-five and other days, festive days or orders will be out of the division, sacrifices Queeri, the first division, etc., the emperor often dynasty or rituals dressed in clothing, crowns and ornaments.

The auspicious clothing crown, winter with sea dragon, lavender sable, sable skin, are in seasonal alternation. Embellished with Zhu Wei; top full of flowers and gold seat, on the title of a large pearl. Summer with woven jade grass or rattan bamboo silk system, red silk, stone green piece of gold edge. Adorned with Zhu Doudou; top such as the winter auspicious dress crown.

Ji suit has end cover, gun suit and dragon robe. End cover is worn by the emperor in winter, round neck, lapel, flat sleeves, left and right hanging belt of fur coat, its length to the knee. Made of sable, every year from November to the next year, more black fox, bright yellow satin. Left and right belt each two, under the wide and sharp, the color is also with bright yellow. Gun suit is set in the dragon robe outside the round neck, lapel, flat-sleeved dress coat. Gun suit is the emperor's inherent clothing, the Qing dynasty slightly modified. For the emperor ritual dress. Stone green, embroidered five claws of the front of the gold dragon four groups, two shoulders before and after a group. Juxtaposed with the sun and moon two chapters, the left shoulder sun, the right shoulder moon, before and after the seal script of longevity, between the five-color cloud. Spring and fall cotton, clip, winter fur, summer yarn, all according to the seasonal change. End cover and gun suit is both a dress and the emperor's special clothing. With the robe set wear for dress, known as end cover, with the dragon robe, python robe set wear is an auspicious dress, known as ceremonial coat. Dragon robe is worn by the emperor in the robe in the round neck, horseshoe sleeves right over robe. Bright yellow, the leaders are stone green, piece of gold edge. Before and after both shoulders and both sleeves sleeve end of the dragon each one, lapel line dragon five, before and after the collar of the dragon each one. Collar left and right and lapel at the line of dragons each one, column twelve chapters, between the five-color cloud. The lower part of the eight treasures standing water, four open train. The difference between the dragon robe and the court dress, dragon robe without collar, clothing connected four train robe; robe for the collar with a cape, on the lower garment is not connected to the skirt type robe. Dragon robe also have sheep, folder, yarn, fur, according to the seasonal alternation.

The robe of the court beads, treasures with the defense.

The auspicious dress belt, bright yellow, openwork gold version of the four, square, round with the Royal, articulated beads, jade, miscellaneous treasures from its appropriate. The left and right pei jian pure white, down straight and flush. In about the gold knot, such as the plate decoration. The rest of the system as the belt system.

Crown

Emperor's regular crown and regular clothes: the emperor Royal Feasts and other daily political affairs or daily life worn by clothing and crown, including the regular crown, the line of clothing crowns and rain clothing crowns, etc..

Regular clothes crown red velvet knot top, without beams, the rest of the crown system as auspicious clothing.

The regular clothes have regular clothes robe and regular clothes coat two kinds. Regular robe, stone green, patterned with the imperial, round neck, horseshoe sleeves, right over four train robe. The regular robe is set in the regular robe outside the round neck, flat sleeves, lapel coat. The emperor's regular clothes have sheep, folder, yarn, fur, all according to the seasonal change.

line clothing crown

Emperor line clothing crown and line clothing: for the emperor tour, hunting or personal expedition when wearing clothing and crown jewelry.

Running clothes crown, winter with black fox or black sheepskin, green velvet, and the rest are the same as the regular crown. Summer with woven jade grass or vine made of bamboo silk, red yarn, edge as its color. The top is decorated with yak. The top and the beam are yellow, and the front is decorated with a pearl.

The line of clothing has a line of clothing robes and line of clothing coats. Running clothes robe, its system and the same as the regular clothes robe, for the round neck, horseshoe sleeves, clothing connected to the right overlooking robe. Its color and pattern of the emperor's desire, line clothing robe right train than the left train is one foot shorter, this robe for the traditional Manchu lack of lapel robe. This is the emperor of the Qing dynasty service system and the emperor's service system is different. Row clothes coat color is stone green, long and sit flush, sleeve length and elbow. Row clothes have sheep, clip, yarn, fur, according to the seasonal alternation.

The line of clothing belt, bright yellow, left and right to red cowhide for the system, decorated with gold pattern engraved silver ring each of the three. Pei Jie to Goryeo cloth, slightly wider and shorter than the regular dress belt of the Jie. In the middle of the bundle of cowhide. Adorned with silver flower pattern pouch, bright yellow taping, decorated with coral.

rainwear crown

Emperor rainwear crown and rainwear: rain crown system has two: winter top Chong, the front eaves deep; summer flat top, open front eaves. All in bright yellow, moon white satin. Felt and oil silk, feather satin according to the season and use.

Raincoat system has six: color are bright yellow. First, the oil silk for the, such as the regular clothes coat, and the length of the body and the robe commensurate. Since the obeisance of the following plus Bo. Attack on the heavy clothing. Collar for the folds, sleeveless, oblique compared to the width of the upper convergence under the gradual increase in width. The two weights are all covered with lapels. Collar and New York are green; its two, made of felt, feather satin and oil silk. Lined with moon white satin. The collar and New York are the same color as the coat. The oil-silk raincoat is not lined. The style is a cape with a stand-up collar and lapel; third, like a regular coat with a collar, the length of the body is the same as the robe. Made of felt, feather satin, moon white satin lining, collar and New York as the color of the coat; Fourth, such as the regular robe and sleeve end flat, before the application of crotch cover, oiled silk without lining. Collar with green feather satin, New York green. Outside the robe sleeves such as clothing color; the fifth, such as the regular clothes coat, long and sit flush. Felt, feather satin for the, moon white satin. Collar and New York as the color of the coat; Sixth, such as the regular robe and collar, long and sit flush. The oil silk for the, not added, sleeve end flat, before the crotch, collar with green feather satin, New York green.

The system of rain clothes are two: one, bright yellow, the left and right width intersect, on the convergence of the next gradually wide. On the front plus shallow curtains for the folds; both sides decorated with New York, green. The waist was horizontal, with stone green cloth, and the two ends were narrowed to become a belt to tie it; the second, the front was complete, without the shallow curtains. The rest of the system is the same.

The above system of clothing, since the Qianlong dynasty has been developed and has been inherited until the end of the Qing dynasty.

On the fifteenth day of the first month, eat table at CZM. Wearing a large wool lavender sable satin table Canglong teach son bead top crown, wearing yellow carved silk Wanji cotton ground black fox skin dragon robe, outside the end of the sable cover, turquoise large quartz belt, the positive beads number of beads (Li), white cloth cotton socks, thick cotton overpants. Green satin sheepskin lining soap boots.

March 29, change the cool crown, wearing velvet bamboo lining crown, wearing sauce-colored Ning silk cotton cruising robe, Japanese satin collar cotton sleeves red and green satin medium wool sheepskin cruising lab coat, yellow line cruising soft belt, tied to the Nasa coral cloud large purse, the left side of the large purse inside the yellow jeweled ancient money box, white cloth cotton socks, thin cotton overpants, green satin green teeth seam cool Li-Tip Boots.

April 7, the first three quarters of the afternoon four minutes of summer. Dai Dele Su grass split Pi (armature side) tasseled crown; wearing blue silk thick cotton robe, Japanese satin collar and cotton sleeves red and green satin small wool sheepskin lab coat, there are tethered to dress up the yellow line of han Yu unusual band, white cloth cotton socks, thin cotton pants, green satin Liangli soap boots. That is, change the cotton robe, jacket, jacket pants or spun silk single pants.

June 6, change to wear double light tasseled crown; wear blue straight single gauze robe, red and green straight single gauze gown, turquoise ponytail knob belt (tie knife, fire sickle) green satin shoes and socks.

On August 16th, the cool of autumn, he changed to wear the tasseled crown of Delle Cao Nan Pi (armature side), thin cotton robe of sauce-colored ning silk, thick cotton coat of red and green satin, enameled belt with tethered yellow thread; white cotton socks, spun silk single pants, and green satin soap boots in the cool lining.

On the 29th day of leap September, he changed to wear sea dragon satin crown, blue silk upper body sheepskin and gray rat skin gown, yellow black fox thigh gown, yellow line enamel belt, white cloth cotton socks, fish white spring silk thin cotton pants, green satin boots.

November replacement of winter clothing. November 16, wearing a native color sable satin table crown.

Women: kanji, lined jacket, lining jacket, flowerpot bottom