Traditional Culture Encyclopedia - Traditional customs - Clothing and jewelry in Qing dynasty (and shoes, originally, princess royal)
Clothing and jewelry in Qing dynasty (and shoes, originally, princess royal)
Historically, Manchu men wore horseshoe sleeves with a belt around their waist, or a robe with a double-breasted coat, a cool hat in summer and a sloppy fur hat in winter. The clothes are made of blue, blue and brown cotton, silk, silk, satin and other materials, with blue leg straps on the trouser legs, cotton boots or leather boots on the feet, and Piura in winter. Braid the top and shave off the surrounding hair.
Women's flag skirt
Women like to wear a foot-long flag skirt or vest. Clothing is made of silk, satin, tulle or cotton and linen, with various colors and patterns. Some embroider the surface of cheongsam into a set of patterns, and more are inlaid with layers of fine lace on the skirt, cuffs, neckline and hem. White socks on the feet, embroidered shoes at the bottom of the flowerpot, leg straps in various colors such as green, red and pink on the trouser legs. Shake your head and wings and comb two heads or flags. I like to wear earrings, bracelets, rings, hairpins, velvet flowers and sideburns. Manchu men and women like to hang ornaments on their waists or big skirts. Men have sickles, ear spoons, toothpicks, glasses cases and fan belts. Women have sachets and wallets. Most of them are sewn with silks and satins, with various colors and exquisite workmanship.
Edit the dress form of this paragraph.
cap
Manchu women have no hats and men have hats, which are divided into high-top hats, casual hats, wind hats, felt hats and autumn hats (women keep out the cold in winter); Shoe ornament
Men's shoes are tied by Budina, and their faces are inlaid with thongs. Wear pigskin or cowhide boots in winter, and most elderly people wear high-waisted felt shoes. Women wear high-heeled shoes with wooden soles, which are narrow at the bottom and wide at the top, with the toe protruding from the upper wing and green flowers on both sides, like boats. Specifically, there are horseshoe shoes, flowerpot shoes, flat shoes, square shoes and pointed shoes.
baldric
The ornaments worn by Manchu people are divided into bone ornaments, stone ornaments, pearl ornaments and gold and silver ornaments. What kind of jewelry to wear depends on status. Generally speaking, the quality of jewelry can show the status and wealth of a family. Women's flag shoes
Manchu women's flag shoes are called "inch shoes" or "horseshoe shoes". In the middle of the sole, that is, the center of the foot, there are more than 3 inches of boards embedded, and the boards are wrapped with fine white cloth. Where the wood can't follow the ground, it is often decorated with embroidery or beads. Because the sole plane is horseshoe-shaped, it is named; There is also a kind of shoes whose bottom is flowerpot-shaped, which is called "flowerpot bottom shoes"; Flag shoes worn by elderly women and working women, with flat wood as the bottom, are called flat embroidered shoes, also known as "net cloud shoes". Manchu women's shoes are embroidered on the surface, socks are mostly made of cloth, and soles have patterns. Manchu women's high top shoes. Manchu women are full, and the old customs like to wear wooden high-top shoes. The middle of the sole is made of wood, with flat front and round back, thin top and wide bottom. Its appearance and landing sign are like horseshoes, hence the name. The bottom is three or four inches high, and there are seven or eight inches behind the capital flag. The bottom of the wood is wrapped in white cloth. Upper, the rich are mostly satin, and the poor are mostly cloth, all of which are colored and embroidered with flower patterns. Those who are plain and have no flowers are the most taboo, so they are close to fierce clothes. Noble women often decorate uppers with jewels and jade, or add tassels to the toe. Girls only use it when they are thirteen or fourteen. After the Republic of China, it was rare.
Chinese straight collar coat
It is a coat that Manchu men often wear when riding horses. Mandarin jackets are divided into various forms, such as large lapels, double lapels and pipa lapels. After the mandarin jacket, it became a daily garment covering the robe. High-necked double-breasted, four-sided slit, waist-length, slightly shorter sleeves, robe sleeves can be exposed for three or four inches, and robe sleeves are rolled on the jacket sleeves, which is the so-called size sleeves. Nowadays, many small cotton-padded jackets worn by Manchu people evolved from mandarin jackets. In order to ride a horse conveniently, a short coat that reaches the navel and is open all around is put on the outside of the robe to keep out the cold. Nowadays, the double-breasted cotton-padded jacket worn by many Manchu people evolved from the jacket.
Sleeveless jacket
The vest is not the original costume of Manchu, but evolved from the "half arm" of Han nationality. The vest can be divided into a pair of lapels, a twisted lapel, a straight lapel and a pipa lapel. Women's vests should also have embroidered edges. There are cotton clips, or silk or cloth on the vest, which cover the robe.
Large pull wing
Hairstyles of Manchu aristocratic women in Qing Dynasty. It prevailed in Guangxu and Xuantong years. Its type, the top hair is combed into a bun, and the back hair is dovetail. In addition, the serrated soap board made of black satin, velvet or yarn is called the "head board", and its bottom is made of iron wire into a bowl-shaped buckle, which is called the "head seat". Buckle it on the top of the head and wrap it with hair to fix it. This kind of "high as a memorial arch" fixed decoration is worn on the head when in use. Usually, a large colored silk flower is worn in the center of the headboard, which is called "straight head" or "straight flower", and beads, jade, Hosta, step shake and flowers are added, or a colored silk spike is embroidered on the right side. This hairstyle is named after the head is spread like wings.
leather boots lined with wula sedge/corvée labour formerly imposed on Xizang serfs
Most of them are leather shoes worn by Manchu people in rural areas in winter. Sewing with cowhide or pigskin, and using humulus as wadding, it is light and warm, suitable for hunting in winter and running on ice. It is one of the distinctive Manchu costumes, which has been worn in rural areas in Northeast China.
Edit the colors and patterns in this paragraph.
The colors of Manchu costumes are mostly elegant white and blue-purple, and red, pink, light yellow and black are also common colors of Manchu costumes. White is an important color in Manchu costumes, because Manchu people traditionally have the custom of respecting white. White is clean and precious, and white symbolizes auspiciousness. Therefore, flags of other colors such as red and blue are often decorated with white lace. Manchu women are good at embroidery. They embroidered auspicious patterns on skirts, uppers, wallets and pillows, such as flowers, herbs, cranes and deer, dragons and phoenixes. Manchu costumes usually have the most embroidered flowers on their sleeves. After the Manchu entered the customs, many auspicious symbols of the Han nationality often appeared in the costume patterns, such as blessing, longevity and longevity. Although Manchu costumes have strong national traditional characteristics, they are constantly evolving with the development of history. Especially after the Manchu entered the customs, they lived together with the Han nationality for a long time, and their clothing styles, colors and patterns all evolved to varying degrees. Wolong belt is also a traditional Manchu costume, also called vest, which is actually a sleeveless mandarin jacket. It has a belly-long collar, most of which are slit at both sides, and various patterns are decorated on the edges of the collar and lapel. There are equations of double barge head, big barge head and pipa barge head, and there are divisions of cotton, leather, clip and yarn. Manchu men in Inner Mongolia prefer pipa-style vests. The formula is to sew the skirt into an arc, that is, the skirt sticks to the chest from the neckline to the right shoulder, but it doesn't reach the end, but turns left to the navel, so that the lower skirt is missing a short section to facilitate getting on and off the horse. Women's vests are mostly double-breasted, and the lower ends of the double-breasted vests are mostly wishful heads, and the skirts are inlaid with gorgeous lace. In the Qing Dynasty, dresses were narrow, and cheongsam was often worn, but it was still wide since the late Qing Dynasty, and it was often worn outside cheongsam. Because of its beauty and practicality, it is still worn by the elderly in Manchu Township of Manchu Tun in Horqin Right Front Banner and ten Manchu townships in Harqin Banner. Wula is one of Manchu traditional winter boots and shoes. It is made of pigskin, cowhide and deerskin. The shape is pointed at the front and rounded at the back. The vamp has six ears, and the shoe mouth is padded near the foot, and the ears are connected by thin straps. Shoes are relatively wide, and they should be filled with Urraca, one of the "Three Treasures in Northeast China". Because of its softness, lightness and freedom of movement, Wula has been used all the time and can still be seen in some remote mountain villages in Hulunbeier City, Inner Mongolia. Dress culture
Manchu people who moved south to Liaodong in the Ming Dynasty used both cloth and leather. After Nurhachi led the troops, the costumes were chaotic, and the phenomenon of "uniformity from top to bottom" appeared. It was not until the era of Huang taiji that custom-made crown clothes began. After entering the customs, the clothes from the emperor to the soldiers are customized and insurmountable. As for the idle flag-bearers, it was normal for all men to wear robes, made of satin or cloth, jackets and jackets. Manchu women's cheongsam has developed a lot and likes to be made of satin. In Beijing and other places, the practice of "eighteen inlays" is popular, that is, eighteen hems look good and the style has become a wide robe and big sleeves, which is a fashion in the Qing Dynasty. After the Revolution of 1911, the style of cheongsam changed from fat to thin, and it was divided into long sleeves and short sleeves. After continuous improvement, the general style is: straight collar, narrow sleeves, big chest on the right, buckle and trip, waist-tied, knee-length, split on both sides. Nuerhachi unified the Jurchen tribe, established the post-Jin regime, and implemented the Eight Banners system. After that, Manchu people all wore banners, so the robes they wore were called "cheongsam". After Manchu nobles entered the customs to rule the whole country, Emperor Taizong of Qing Dynasty believed that the emperors of Qing Dynasty should maintain their own lifestyle and traditional habits, especially the dress system symbolized by the rulers as the foundation for consolidating the country. So he set out to formulate and improve the dress code of the Qing dynasty, and repeatedly forbade princes and ministers to wear praise belts, wide robes and big sleeves like Han people. Maids and slaves in the court should wear Manchu clothes, and the clothes and hairstyles of Han adult men should follow Manchu habits. Only when you are buried after death can you wear Hanfu.
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